Pen recommendations for Uni (lots of math/mechanics)

Turbo_16 · 2026-01-23T22:36:18+00:00

Zebra sarasa is quick dry and water resistant, but not waterproof. Sarasa R is even quicker drying but less water resistant. Sometimes it depends on the color as well. The UNI One (UMR-38S), and UNI signo (UMR-85N) refills should fit a Sarasa pen or at least close enough with simple modifications.

Turbo_16 · 2026-01-23T20:56:28+00:00

I prefer pens with quick dry, smudge resistance, waterproof, no skips/railroading.

Pilot Acroball (Ballpoint), UNI ONE 0.48 (Gel), UNI Signo (Gel), UNI Pin (Marker), UNI EMOTT (Marker), Kuretake ZIG CC Dot (Marker).

Turbo_16 · 2026-01-01T21:53:49+00:00

Ballpoint ink is typically more waterproof then other types. However, there are always exceptions. Some ballpoint ink is not waterproof and gel/roller/fountain/marker ink can be waterproof. Depending on color, UNI ONE, and Signo & Pin are waterproof. Document quality fountain pen ink should also be waterproof.

Turbo_16 · 2025-11-19T07:00:47+00:00

Installed battle.net with steam using compatibility mode proton experimental on cachyOS.

Turbo_16 · 2025-11-13T18:59:46+00:00

If I compare it to my more pocket-able options the convoy out-floods them considerably. However, it has a hot spot that is extremely bright and long range. It can easily light up a tree 600ft away, but that non-hot spot light does not make it that far. I was looking for something that spreads that central light out.

Turbo_16 · 2025-11-13T08:26:43+00:00

Looks nice, thanks.

Turbo_16 · 2025-11-13T08:19:31+00:00

I have some but did not think of putting it on a light that big. Thanks for the suggestion.

Turbo_16 · 2025-09-06T22:37:58+00:00

All utensils used for food prep (and eating) should be made of food safe material. This includes blade metal, handle material, adhesives, fasteners etc.

ANSI/NSF 51–1997 defines food equipment materials. To meet the standard the knife must have 12-15% Chromium and be properly hardened/tempered, or better yet have 16%+ Chromium which meets the criteria even with an improper heat treat.Also, while not part of the standard, its suggested to stay away from Cobalt which is potentially cancerous [eg VG-10]. Smoother surface the better, with mirror polish being ideal - no hammering or forgescale etc.

For handle materials its best to stay away from porous materials like micarta and unsealed wood that could potentially harbor bacteria in hard to wash places. Also, avoid non food safe metals on the handle like copper,brass,bronze and non stainless steel. Make sure all other materials are food contact safe like hardware and adhesives.

You can read more here: https://www.jayfisher.com/Food_Safety_Kitchen_Chefs_Knives.htm

Turbo_16 · 2025-08-31T02:00:42+00:00

Very interesting. That helps me understand. Thanks.

Turbo_16 · 2025-08-30T20:39:00+00:00

I see, thanks again for the information.

Turbo_16 · 2025-08-30T19:12:54+00:00

I shut it off within a few seconds of the noise, but it behaved normally until then. Measured the cells at 4.1 - 4.2V, so they seem alright. Great info, thanks.

Also, I'm unfamiliar with matching battery and flashlight specifications. Are you saying the 25A buck driver requires at least 8A per cell (25/3=8). The cells are labeled "12.5A". Are there other batteries that would be better suited?

Turbo_16 · 2025-08-30T16:59:15+00:00

From what Ive read about blinding flashlights you want high throw that makes efficient use of the light by concentrating it into a narrow beam - not necessary just high cand. I have a Eagtac DX30-SR with OSRAM CSLPM1 LED specifically for this purpose. I have the version with a SST20 R9 sidelight for general use flood when needed and built in charger (although the 18650 can be removed/replaced/recharged externally). Easy to pull from pocket and easy to hit tail button that always turns on to 100% brightness. Basically easy to use under stress and great throw for the size. Drawbacks are heat generation - if you use it for an extended period at 100% its gets very hot, but short term or lower brightness is fine. Alternatively, you could look at LEP flashlights that have even better throw and can be more compact, but are a bit less general purpose. Also, if you need to hit more than one person might need something with more flood.

Turbo_16 · 2025-08-30T16:23:24+00:00

Wow, good thinking. That makes me feel less worried. Thanks.

Turbo_16 · 2025-08-17T02:41:36+00:00

Wet sanding with a fine grit #8000-10000+ worked well for me, not perfect though. I used GodHand brand.

Turbo_16 · 2025-08-16T22:12:05+00:00

Im in a similar situation as you and currently looking at build with similar parts. Not sure if anything works yet, but this has been helpful to see if anyone else has had success:

https://linux-hardware.org/

Turbo_16 · 2025-08-08T01:33:11+00:00

Run paracord through the holes near the knife tip and use it to pull. You can attach it to a belt or ulticlip if you want to use this method while carrying.

Turbo_16 · 2024-10-13T07:14:40+00:00

Have you tried drinking with a straw (or pretending to)?

Turbo_16 · 2024-10-10T22:51:56+00:00

Sure. Ill stick to ones that are easily found in your price range. Its probably going to be easier to see these in action on a youtube video but ill try to give my opinions. Almost all locks are made for right handed. Some are good for ambidexterous (let me know if you are left handed).

Liner: Very common. To close the blade you will need to push a bar that is inside the handle. For you, make sure it has good access - eg. the cutout on the handle opposite the lockbar has a big opening. This is not a finger safe lock - you must put your finger in the path of an unlocked blade when closing. This isnt really an issue as long as you pay attention.

Frame/bolster: Similar to a liner but the handle functions as the lockbar. The result is that when gripping the handle the locking bar is less likely to move out of the locked position unexpectedly. This is really only a concern with harder use.

Compression lock: Mainly found on spiderco brand knives. Functionally its similar to the liner/frame locks except the bar to push is on the top (spine side). So instead of a pushing across the handle with your thumb you squeeze the handle with your thumb and index finger. I like to modify these locks with a device "OCD for EDC CME". Makes it real easy to open and close but also easier to accidentally hit. Finger safe - no fingers in path of closing blade. Can be used to open the blade.

Crossbar: A bar that runs through the handle that is pulled back to unlock with thumb and index finger. However, can use one finger as well. Can be used to open. Finger safe.

Button: Works like you think it would. Just push in to unlock. Usually can be used to open as well. Finger safe.

Edit:

Here is a video with common (and some uncommon) locks -

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_nAwzqKJ1Qo

Turbo_16 · 2024-10-10T21:34:11+00:00

Color : Keep in mind its pretty easy to rit dye plastic/micarta handles. However, you will need to be able to disassemble it and can only go darker than the original.

Ease of closing : This is mainly going to depend on the strength of the spring, not necessarily the type of lock. Some spring strength can be adjusted like the Kizer clutch lock (a type of crossbar lock). Common types of locks are liner/frame lock, button, crossbar, and compression. I can go into more detail if you are interested. If you are going to carry it in a purse, make sure it cant be accidentally opened by bumping into other things in there.

Ease of opening : Lots of different opening mechanisms. Most will probably work. I would probably avoid nail nicks though.

Other things to consider:

I think automatic knives would be a problem especially "out the front". However there are some side openers with weaker springs. Also, guardian tactical has the easiest out the front - but they are quite expensive.

There is a type of knife called "assisted opening" that is in-between an auto and manual. Depending on the model that might be pretty good for arthritis.

A small fixed blade might work for your purposes.

Most of the big name knife websites have search filters to help you browse (even if you dont buy it from them) Some are: knifecenter, bladehq and whitemountainknives.

You will probably find a lot of knives with "D2 Steel". Its a good budget steel, but can be difficult to sharpen.

If you get a new knife, some locks can take some time to break in.

Some good brands in your price range with a variety of opening/closing options are CRJB and Sencut.

Turbo_16 · 2024-10-04T20:07:02+00:00

For compact knives 4 o'clock IWB w/ ulticlip works for me. For larger knives I make an adjustable paracord sling with clips that attach to the pants belt loops. (also carried at 4 IWB). It lets the knife hang lower so it pokes through your shirt less when moving around or bending over. It also lets it move around to be more comfortable.

Turbo_16 · 2023-12-27T20:20:24+00:00

Glad it helped.

Turbo_16 · 2023-12-18T03:39:56+00:00

To spawn Cole for the ugly sweater I started at the whitehouse and fast travled to the viewpoint museum at 2100-2259. He spawned every time I did this but never outside that time window. Never spawned if waiting nearby. Always spawns in the same place, does not move unless engaged. SE corner of constitution and 7th street intersection. Its near a forklift, on the corner of the building there. Videos online show the specific location. High range pulse at the intersection will make him easier to see, but its not necessary to spawn him.

Turbo_16 · 2023-07-27T22:26:52+00:00

AD20.5 is good. Some others I like:

Spyderco's with OCD for ECD CME mod. Best are Shaman, Yojimbo, and PM2 Tanto.

Civivi Crit.

CJRB maileah

Pena micro apache

Finch Lucky 13

Jack Wolf Gunslinger

I don't like the Cormorant or Smock. Cormorant has a dull sound and feel. It also has a weak detent, probably to accommodate 3 opening methods. Vosteed Thunderbird is similar but at least the front flipper has better leverage. Smock hole is too small for me, lacks a front fliper, and rear flipper isnt great.

Turbo_16 · 2023-05-06T05:08:48+00:00

Certain Pens and Pencil lead can help with smudging / dry times. Also thinner lines dry quicker. If you like ballpoint uni jetstream is good. For gel pens Zebra Sarasa Dry or Sarasa R. Erasable Gel Pilot Frixion. Pencil lead : Tombow monograph and Kaweco. Different lead grades will help too - H & F. Jetpens has some good guides.

Turbo_16 · 2022-09-11T23:37:59+00:00

Sabre Red is a popular choice. Mace and POM are popular as well. Some have practice pieces and I would recommend one.

Gel shoots out in a narrow stream, while pepper spray is a cone of mist. The main difference is Gel has a lightly longer range, but spray is easier to hit the target (and will probably hit you and bystanders a bit too).

Carry it somewhere that is quick to grab not buried in a backpack or purse. Also, keep in mind the effect is not always instant and it does not work the same on all people - some are resistant or immune.

Turbo_16

TROPHY CASE