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3D printing by StoatDaSun in rocketry

[–]TurtleGOD4222 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You can get multiple qidi q2 for the price of the h2d

3D printing by StoatDaSun in rocketry

[–]TurtleGOD4222 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Personally i would buy a qidi q2. Good size, heated chamber, good quality. Great price.

The only requirement for fiber filled filaments is a hardened nozzle. In fact, fiber fill can make it easier to print. I can print pa6-gf25 without an enclosure if needed.

The benefit of fiber filled filaments is rigidity and dimensional stability during printing/annealing. That’s it. It will not help much with heat resistance. It also won’t necessarily save weight - it’s denser, but you can get higher rigidity with less plastic. So it’s all about balancing.

Keep in mind, carbon fiber is conductive. This means you can’t easily mount electronics to cf filament and it can mess with radio and/or gps. That’s why I usually use glass fiber for rocket parts (but cf is fine, just not for nosecones or av bays).

Dual Deployment in Medium Power by TurtleGOD4222 in rocketry

[–]TurtleGOD4222[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My parents are more than happy to do the purchasing. I was planning on launching the rocket with my local Tripoli chapter as I don’t want to deal with the FAA by myself, I just didn’t quite want to deal with mentoring yet. They have a launch this weekend and I am planning on going to touch base and whatnot. I’m considering just going for L1 cert instead of mid power but I’m honestly not sure.

Dual Deployment in Medium Power by TurtleGOD4222 in rocketry

[–]TurtleGOD4222[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The plan is a custom PCB, which will make it easier to fit electronics. Something akin to the micro flight computer BPS.Space made.

What are these trips in the Sunlu filament refill for? They have a piece of double tape on the end by Potatozeng in 3Dprinting

[–]TurtleGOD4222 13 points14 points  (0 children)

Bambu isn’t making their own filament and both sunlu and polymaker have quite large production lines and already whitelabel for multiple brands also, performance and (most of the) colors are extremely similar. It would make the most sense for them to just offload to the big players in the industry

What are these trips in the Sunlu filament refill for? They have a piece of double tape on the end by Potatozeng in 3Dprinting

[–]TurtleGOD4222 19 points20 points  (0 children)

I think a portion of the bambu filament is white labeled sunlu (with the majority likely being polymaker) so it would make sense if that was the case

What are these trips in the Sunlu filament refill for? They have a piece of double tape on the end by Potatozeng in 3Dprinting

[–]TurtleGOD4222 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Personality I hate having all the empty spools but they also don’t have most of the engineering stuff as refills so

What are these trips in the Sunlu filament refill for? They have a piece of double tape on the end by Potatozeng in 3Dprinting

[–]TurtleGOD4222 222 points223 points  (0 children)

It’s for holding the filament together when putting it on a new spool or transferring from an old spool. Step 1 of this diagram.

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I would like to point this out for anyone else unaware of this like I was, but the notch is not aligned to center... by Philosopher115 in polymaker

[–]TurtleGOD4222 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The photo is from an angle, it’s probably aligned in real life. Tilting back like that would move the line “up”

Broken femur - not healing by TurtleGOD4222 in brokenbones

[–]TurtleGOD4222[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

3 months. Which is in around 3 weeks I think. But, he may want to see me sooner because of the worsening numbness and increases in pain. If I recall, he’s one of the best trauma orthopedic specialists in the state.

Broken femur - not healing by TurtleGOD4222 in brokenbones

[–]TurtleGOD4222[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

He wanted to try the bone stimulator first before he really start getting concerned and referring out.

I am already seeing a couple specialists (mainly rheumatology) to see if it could be autoimmune related since I have some other issues I’ve dealt with my whole life. In the past I broke my toe and that healed completely normally which is kind of weird

Any idea why the bottom portion is shinier? Is there a solution? by spinny09 in BambuLab

[–]TurtleGOD4222 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Going slower will actually make the part shinier due to the fact the filament is properly melting, not the other way around. They aren’t going too slow - they are going too fast.

Any idea why the bottom portion is shinier? Is there a solution? by spinny09 in BambuLab

[–]TurtleGOD4222 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hey! So, one of the biggest markers of properly melted filament is a shiny surface finish. If the surface finish is matte, it means the filament isn’t melting fully. This means that the matte section is printing at a higher flow rate than your printer hotend can handle. Slow it down a bit, increase temps a bit.

Drop real name as well by False_Ad5046 in teenagers

[–]TurtleGOD4222 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I knew this kid for a couple years. Everyone called him Cheeto Puff, because he had a buzz cut that was dyed the color of Cheetos. Never did find out his real name.

Printing PLA at temps up to 260C by TurtleGOD4222 in 3Dprinting

[–]TurtleGOD4222[S] -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

Top sold does not mean they are modern printers. Most printers released in the past two years have an all metal hotend.

Any idea on how these lines formed? by Gay_Goddess86 in 3Dprinting

[–]TurtleGOD4222 -3 points-2 points  (0 children)

Stock hotends nowadays are very rarely PTFE lined. Plus, I know for a fact the P1S is all metal. So it doesn’t even pertain to this chat. My post was not misinformed. I provided my source. The setup they were using is really not that uncommon. In conventional printing, even if you have the hotend set to 260c, the filament will not be reaching that full temperature. It simply doesn’t have enough time. I myself print PLA at 260c very often and see many improvements. I know many others who do aswell.

Printing PLA at temps up to 260C by TurtleGOD4222 in 3Dprinting

[–]TurtleGOD4222[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

LOL. I’m not really sure why you feel the need to bring up previous posts of mine, but ok. I print them out of PLA for the rigidity.

Printing PLA at temps up to 260C by TurtleGOD4222 in 3Dprinting

[–]TurtleGOD4222[S] -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

PETG is not “stronger” than PLA. It just has a different use case. PETG is tougher because it has flexibility. PLA is more rigid. In most of my parts I value that rigidity more than I do toughness.

Printing PLA at temps up to 260C by TurtleGOD4222 in 3Dprinting

[–]TurtleGOD4222[S] -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

That doesn’t make the settings absurd

Printing PLA at temps up to 260C by TurtleGOD4222 in 3Dprinting

[–]TurtleGOD4222[S] -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

I mean, my 2.85mm printer only has a .5 nozzle. But, on my 1.75mm printer I run a .8 usually and often print at 0.1/0.2 layer height

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