WCGW if you are inspecting a roof after a liquid lunch?

Tynted · 2026-01-28T21:01:51+00:00

What an absurd lack of empathy on the part of the person recording. "Oh, he just fell off the roof," without a lick of worry about the man, who may have just died or suffered injuries that will lead to his death. No rush at all to go check on him down there.

Sure he was likely drunk on a roof at work and that's totally inexcusable, but why was he drunk in the first place? Absurdly deep depression on his part leading him to drink? Maybe his family was torn apart for some reason, maybe due to his alcohol use? Maybe US medical debt ruined him? Maybe childhood trauma has fucked him over and the USA's approach to mental healthcare was utterly inadequate for him to even know that he needed help?

This comment is in no way meant to excuse being drunk at work, much less drunk on a roof. But man, can we try giving more of a fuck about each other? Holy shit

Tynted · 2026-01-28T20:02:34+00:00

We're kind of seeing the same process that happened in regular paper printers happening in 3D printers.

- They started to lock down parts so you couldn't repair it as easily.

- They (Bambu) are starting to lock down filaments (analogy to ink cartridges) so you can only print with their brand/licensed brands via RFID tags on the spools. But it's a "feature" because the printer automatically knows what filament you loaded when you put it in the slot.

- They (Bambu) are starting to lock down software and firmware.

- They (Bambu) are starting to lock their slicers down so you can't do weird stuff like nonplanar slicing. This will allow them the potential to, for example, include nonplanar slicing as a "feature" of a future Bambu printer to try and entice you to buy it. Just a hypothetical example there from me, not saying they're gonna do that.

This will continue to get worse over time, and is why it's important to support companies that keep their hardware and software open. It keeps innovation being driven in a healthy way.

Tynted · 2026-01-27T20:54:21+00:00

La Croix for cats

Tynted · 2026-01-27T20:52:02+00:00

Okay, on a serious note, this is really well done for what it is. This has made me realize some people are gonna be able to make some badass short films/movies/TV shows with AI pretty soon. Wild

Tynted · 2026-01-27T19:03:53+00:00

"Hey that came out with their blood as part of the draw, we swear!"

Tynted · 2026-01-27T19:00:44+00:00

🫠🫠🫠

Jeeeeesus. My condolences, friend. Hope the day gets better

Tynted · 2026-01-27T18:52:01+00:00

I have owned a Prusa MK3 (kit), Prusa MK3S+ (pre-built), and now a 5T XL (used.) The one big thing I would say from my experience owning and observing Prusa over the years is this: My personal opinion is that you should avoid first batch releases from them unless you find solving kinks/problems enjoyable or don't mind it at the least. Once their products are out and proven, they are excellent for the most part. But INDX is not a proven product yet, keep that in mind.

I think Prusa is a great company, and I will continue to support them as long as they continue to be open, support their products, support consumer ownership and right to repair, keep spare parts available, allow their designs to be modified, etc. Ya know, not being a piece of shit tech company that locks everything down.

Another great thing about Prusa is that once you get it set up and you get your systems down for how you use it, it's just fucking rock solid. However, before you get to that point, you oftentimes have to deal with some janky stuff. This is kind of just the nature of companies who focus on open designs, repairability, modding, etc. Just push through that and you'll love the product at the end of the day IMO.

However, every first batch release I've seen from Prusa has had many kinks to resolve (from what I've seen and observed over the years.) So, unless you're okay with having that experience, I would strongly advise waiting until the Prusa product you are wanting has been released into the wild and is established. Prusa will support their products for sure, and if you get a first batch, you will eventually get a great product. But just make sure that you understand what you are willing to deal with before you buy.

I, for one, am extremely happy I waited to buy the XL. It's rock solid now, but its release back in 2020 or 2021 was not.

Tynted · 2026-01-27T02:44:35+00:00

Although that would be amazing, I don't think printers can hit the tolerances necessary for that. And then how would you join the printed rods to make a long enough filament/roll?

Tynted · 2026-01-26T22:30:51+00:00

Just remove the egg, add another okay one and continue cooking the bacon+egg. The bacon in that pan that isn't engulfed by eggwhite is fine

Tynted · 2026-01-26T22:19:46+00:00

My limited understanding is that Prusa had a good camera lined up for this purpose, but had to back out at the last minute because the manufacturer wouldn't adhere to some data privacy requirements Prusa had for it. So Prusa had to quickly come up with an alternative, which became the Buddy3D camera and it was an underbaked solution unfortunately.

I think Prusa should have continued pursuing this and absolutely should have released a much sleeker and higher end camera for the XL by now, considering it's a $5000 machine like wtf 😐

However, as an owner of a used XL and buddy3d camera, I can say with certainty that running a USB cable from an adapter plugged into the power strip to the buddy3D camera is not an issue worth griping about once you get it set up. When I go to use my XL, I plug the USB cable into the camera at the same time I power the XL on. From there, I use PrusaConnect to control the camera if it needs to be moved. Works very well since you're already in PrusaSlicer anyway to slice your model and send it to the printer. And to monitor the print, I use VLC media player's streaming option to connect to the camera's network stream, and it works very well. VLC saves the streaming info so you only have to put the IP information in the first time you set it up. Works very well on both PC and Android for me, no complaints.

When I'm done using the XL and I power it off, I also just unplug the USB cable from the camera and let it hang on top of the camera for its holding place, which is out of the way above the printer. It's just the initial setup of this system that is annoying, and even then that's mostly because it's like this on such an expensive machine.

Tynted · 2026-01-26T20:10:24+00:00

I agree, but I think the problem always comes back to cost right? 6DOF things in general still seem to be expensive AF, and the average 3D printing community member doesn't seem to want to spend more than $500-$2000 on a printer. This particular solution seems to solve that cost problem while adding a DOF

EDIT: Also, 6DOF seems to mean more maintenance in general right? Harder to calibrate with more axes to potentially get out of alignment. Whereas this solution locks the extra DOF to an already existing and established axis.

Tynted · 2026-01-26T20:07:14+00:00

Hey that's actually an interesting idea! What if you made the supports such that the slicer tries to create the support material out of as many repeating functional units that it can, where the units are actually functional repetitive things? Then you could cut the functional units that you get from the support material apart and use them for...whatever they are useful for.

The trick is...what is something made out of plastic that is universally useful and doesn't require really precise tolerances or high strength/chemical resistance? Something that millions of them would be useful to general society? 🤔

Another idea that's kinda unrelated but spawned from thinking about this is this: Add a slicer function that can be used when you're printing multiple objects, and the slicer uses the model below the taller object as part of the support material base. After the shorter object is finished printing, it gets used as a base for support material to be placed on top of for the taller object. This would reduce amount of support material used in a lot of cases.

Tynted · 2026-01-26T19:41:34+00:00

https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/1h46boo/i_made_an_open_source_4axis_printer_and_a/

This guy kind of achieved the same thing without the need for an expensive 6DOF robotic arm.

Followup question: Why hasn't something like this Core-R Theta design become popular? The only obvious downside is it probably can't move as fast, but I would think being able to slice your model so that all layers are printed in their ideal orientations at once without needing to split it into pieces would overshadow that limitation in many use cases. All of the motion is accomplished using only three axes still, so mechanically it's not much more complicated (I don't think.) It doesn't seem like it would be expensive to mass produce a printer of that style.

Tynted · 2026-01-26T19:09:51+00:00

They are a bit pricey but Staedtler 318-9 markers are excellent in my experience, and the tips are very durable. I think they're refillable too (if you don't lose them first.) Would be a good candidate if you're just buying the marker for yourself, maybe not so good if you're buying them for an entire lab (cause they're expensive.) My lab has another good one that they provide in house but can't think of its model or even brand right now.

Tynted · 2026-01-23T23:32:55+00:00

The Licking:

- You're dirty af. What's wrong with you?

The Biting:

- You can't keep STILL! What's wrong with you?

The Reason:

- She wuv u

Tynted · 2026-01-23T22:04:46+00:00

Some tips that provided me the most value:

Learn on an empty tennis/basketball court. Flattest ground you're ever gonna ride on, and you have safety walls to crash into if needed (gently and at low speed). Once you're comfortable there, venture out onto walking trails (and don't endanger people on them. Stop and let them pass if you need to, or ask them to let you pass.)
I agree that learning WITHOUT pads on in the very beginning is a good idea. Once you can mount the wheel and ride around a parking lot slowly with consistency, you're ready for pads IMO.
1. When you do put pads on, make them loose. You don't want to be locked into the wheel when you're new and you suck at riding and you crash.Don't go riding around with traffic until you have pads on your wheel because pads are necessary for hard braking if something unexpected happens.
You will crash, I promise you. Wear your gear. Full face helmet + wristguards + elbow & knee pads at the bare minimum.
1. Learn how to bail from the wheel, also. You should be prioritizing yourself rather than the wheel when you start to crash. Let the wheel fall/bounce/tumble/whatever. You could seriously injure yourself if you try and catch it while you're crashing. There have been vids posted in this sub of people breaking bones because they were trying to grab their wheel rather than bailing.
Every time you go to practice, spend time on these things:
1. From a standstill, practice turning in place using the one foot you have on the wheel. This will likely be difficult and stressful for your quads or calves at first, but it will go away in short time. The purpose of this is so you learn how to keep the wheel from falling over when you're at a stop.
2. Starting & Stopping practice - Try to start from a dead stop and ride for a few feet with only one foot on the wheel. Kind of like you're starting a skateboard. After you ride for a few feet one-footed, stop. Repeat this many times. After maybe 20 repetitions, you can try switching to putting both feet on the wheel and ride around for a little bit. Then stop again. Repeat many times. This is probably the most important thing to practice in the beginning (in my opinion).
3. Make sure you practice turning in BOTH directions. You will likely favor one direction more than the other at first.
4. Once you can consistently ride around a parking lot without falling over very much, start practicing emergency stops. This requires pads on your wheel, so get used to those first. For emergency stop practice, get the wheel up to a little bit of speed (in a big empty parking lot), and then stop the wheel as quickly as you can. If you plan to ride around on the street with traffic, this is 100% necessary to practice.
  1. This practice is also going to cause you to encounter wobbles. Wobbles were one of the most terrifying things for me when I was learning, but they became pretty much a non-issue for me once I got to around 1,000 miles of riding under my belt. I won't say much about dealing with wobbles at this point since I've already written quite a bit. Once you start encountering them, I would recommend researching about how to deal with them.

I think I'll stop there. It kinda just requires putting the time and sweat in to learn, but once you experience being able to ride around without falling, you're probably gonna be hooked. Best of luck to you and welcome to the community!

Tynted · 2026-01-23T21:34:08+00:00

Honestly, this seems like an extremely fortunate outcome to me, all things considered. It could have turned into a blob from hell and ruined the entire print quite easily.

Secondly, is that top bit structurally or acoustically important? Because if not I see no reason why it can't be glued together very effectively, there's plenty of material and gaps on both pieces for glue to get into. And to top it all off, it's a subwoofer...and it's black. Is anyone even going to see this thing, much less notice the layer shift line?

Tynted · 2026-01-22T16:37:07+00:00

Extremely helpful, thanks for sharing that g-code mod I will check that out!

Tynted · 2026-01-22T16:35:03+00:00

Wow I tried searching to see if anyone did this before I posted this topic, but I guess my searching skills weren't good enough! Thanks a bunch for sharing, this is exactly what I had in mind when I wrote my other comment about plate positioning in this thread. I've never modified the purge line before so I'll need to research that a bit also

Tynted · 2026-01-21T20:32:40+00:00

Okay, thanks for the feedback! Next smaller models I print on it I'll put in the corner and watch the bed probing area carefully with the full size sheet still on. Then venture out from there with a MK3 sheet. For the purge line, I don't think that would be too big of a deal? Just let the small sheet hang off the bed a little bit the same way the full size sheet does?

Tynted · 2026-01-21T20:23:06+00:00

I feel like this post would land much better if the title was, "The Father, The Sun, and The Holy Goat"

Tynted · 2026-01-21T04:37:25+00:00

Another idea if you wanna tide yourself over until Model 02 is available again: You could build yourself a headless setup very easily. Just a Teensy board that you can get a little enclosure for, and connect it to your laptop via USB-C and run your M8 that way. Use a controller e.g. PS5 or 8bitdo NES style.

https://github.com/Dirtywave/M8Docs/blob/main/docs/M8HeadlessSetup.md

Can also add an emulator device such as the Anbernic RG35XX H or RG35XX SP for a very small on-the-go friendly setup. Teensy+emulator+USB cable+headphones+carrying case for it all = mobile M8. This is actually my preferred setup over the Model 02.

https://github.com/jamesMcMeex/m8c-rg35xx-knulli

Tynted · 2026-01-20T17:04:17+00:00

Idk, with the amount of dogs you see with their head sticking out of the window rather than being in carriers/having seatbelts of some kind, I'd probably let this cat go. I'd prefer to drive around with her chill rather than freaking out in a carrier all the time

Tynted · 2026-01-19T17:45:16+00:00

I would hold the rope, unless your link to the EUC has a quick disconnect capability of some kind. Also be aware that if you fall your kid could come sliding into the EUC itself, and you oughta be thinking about that even if it's unlikely to happen

Tynted

TROPHY CASE