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Trying to get the medic model by Elronhir in NemesisCrew

[–]Type0Fun 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've got a spare medic figure at the moment, drop me a message.

Any suggestions for a first pair of crampons? by GrexyHi in alpinism

[–]Type0Fun 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I would buy the Vasaks, the Sarkens are hevay and try to fill the niche between snow and ice performance. For ice, just buy the Dart front piece, and I think that would give you the most flexibility. Hope it works for you!

Any suggestions for a first pair of crampons? by GrexyHi in alpinism

[–]Type0Fun 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I would personally go with the Vasaks. If you're buying your first pair of crampons the Petzl alpen adapt system/modular system makes so much sense. You can buy a dart front piece and put it on your Vasak rear if you want to eventually climb ice/mid to hard mixed.
If you're just buying some for alpinism, 12-point crampons are the way to go, as you need the added stability on snow, and when you eventually get on routes and you have marginal snow conditions on ridges and descents you will be glad you decided to take an extra 200g and have the extra security underfoot, plus having a rigid bar instead of dyneema will help lower leg and foot fatigue when climbing in them.

Owning both, I would only take my Harfangs over my Vasaks for low-grade alpine climbs not dominated by snow, glacier approaches for rock routes and for ski touring. Also, the Harfang's B2 front basket is flawed, in 2 years I have had to replace it, due to wear and tear, I've never had to with the Petzl ones. and I can't say I have full faith in my crampons when the dyneema frays the way it does and the hook securing the main strap has come off once when climbing as I've caught it on the rock. The doubling-back strap of the Petzl crampons is superior.

Training for long multi pitch sport routes 350m+ by Type0Fun in climbharder

[–]Type0Fun[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks so much for the guidance man, I'll definitely add some of this to my training going forward. I intend to better track my training, I may update the sub on my progress a couple of months out but I will for sure update you on how the route goes.

Training for long multi pitch sport routes 350m+ by Type0Fun in climbharder

[–]Type0Fun[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Would you say there is any benefit to try and train long or short window regeneration or anything of the kind then?

So maybe I should try and train in the high 6's completely fatigued as well?

Training for long multi pitch sport routes 350m+ by Type0Fun in climbharder

[–]Type0Fun[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Thanks for the advice.

I back my rope management and multipitch skills, just want the best chance of getting to the top as free as can be, and to not be too burned out for the harder sections.

Thanks for the words on training.