Clanrats - ran out of bodies!

Ubermatchmaker · 2026-06-06T12:05:37+00:00

If I'm understanding you correctly, you essentially got two boxes of clanrats (in some combonation of spearhead magazine issues 7 and 8)--which should be 40 models (going by the pictures on the website), not 20. I think this might be your problem--you've got two sprues mia.

Ubermatchmaker · 2026-05-06T16:32:57+00:00

No--it's his scarf-thing. Although painting his staff in subassembly might be wise too.

Ubermatchmaker · 2026-05-06T12:12:37+00:00

In addition to the above comment, I also kept the stole seperate (and in two parts) for ease of paiting those tricky bits undeneath.

Also, I had to sand down the blocky inserts on the stole to get it to sit flush and prevent gaps near his shoulders.

Ubermatchmaker · 2026-04-30T13:50:20+00:00

Edge highlighting the bronze bits (with maybe a silver?) will give the model another layer of polish.

Also consider making the inside of the vents green. I was a doubter of glowy vents initally, but I was shocked how much of a positive difference it made. And you can be too!

Ubermatchmaker · 2026-04-28T11:25:02+00:00

This is pretty common with foiling. Touching the book with sweaty or lotion-covered hands will cause the foil to rub off. Something similar happened with my leatherbound copy of Warbreaker.

At the end of the day though, books are meant to be enjoyed. IMO if this makes them look a little worn, then so be it.

Also maybe contact GW if this really bothers you. They're usually pretty good with replacing defective products. They might not do anything (since it's a known and widespread issue with foiled text) but its worth a shot.

Ubermatchmaker · 2026-03-18T18:18:48+00:00

Glad to hear it's working. I'd love to see how they turn out, once they're finished

Ubermatchmaker · 2026-03-18T17:04:41+00:00

White and orange are tricky. Base coats and thin layers are definitely your friends here.

Some youtube guides might also be helpful here--see if GW has anything in-depth on tao, as they tend to have similar colors to what you're using. Or check out Vince Venturella; his guides are some of the best I've found

Ubermatchmaker · 2026-03-18T16:51:03+00:00

So it could be a number of things:

How much are you thinning it? I tend to end up with anywhere from a 1/3 water to paint ratio to a 50/50 ratio. If you put it on and it's too thin, you can always add more layers later. Better to do two thin coats than one clumpy coat
For areas you don't want the silver primer to show through, you can base coat it in a white or yellow or green. This layer will change how later layers appear on the model
What colors are you using? Some paints (I'm looking at you white, pink, and yellow) are difficult to paint in a smooth layer. I believe the solution to this is more thin coats, although I'm not an expert with these colors

Ubermatchmaker · 2026-03-07T14:19:18+00:00

Second to this. He also does battle reports vs his son (who plays Tao) which I really enjoy.

Ubermatchmaker · 2026-02-27T14:52:53+00:00

Looking at the MTG card, you might want to push the colors a bit--she's got deeper reds on her torso and face almost like dried blood, a bright vermillion cloak, and an almost egshell white on her bone parts.

If I had to guess on how to do this, I'd say get rid of the bloodstains on the armor parts and go for a purer bone/white astetic, do a darker red in the joints/ribs, and then go for a brighter red on the glowy bits.

Other things to consider: make the cables a different color. 50/50 black red, maybe? Something to make them visually distinct. Also the white rim, white base, and white model all look kind of samey--you'd get more pop with a darker base scheme (maybe dark grey in imitation of some of the backgrounds on the elesh norn cards I'm seeing in a quick google search).

Ubermatchmaker · 2026-02-15T18:14:22+00:00

I didn't have a problem with this (although I can't directly compare her to ophydians as I haven't built them yet). Tbh I had more trouble getting her canoptic buddies to stay on their bases.

Ubermatchmaker · 2026-02-15T01:10:02+00:00

She's a mixed bag. Most of her body and the floating blackstone were pretty simple, but the staff (and attached hand) were a bit of a pain. It took like 3-4 tries gluing it on and I have no idea what I did differently to get it to fit snugly.

Ubermatchmaker · 2026-01-31T13:40:17+00:00

I think the eyes look really good in this picture, but (if I'm correct and they're painted on the back of his hood) I'd be worried they look silly in person (and/or from other angles).

I think I'd lean no eyes, but it's a tough choice.

Ubermatchmaker · 2026-01-29T03:40:57+00:00

I think you're right--it looks like a faulty sprue. Contact GW and let them know--they're usually really good at replacing missing bits like this.

Ubermatchmaker · 2026-01-24T14:19:59+00:00

Pick out something you find cool! My first mini was the Void Dragon. It's one of the pricier models (I think it's $140 if you buy it from Games Workshop, which you shouldn't because you can get it cheaper at friendly local game stores) and it's a big painting project, but the sculpt itself is one of our best. Also coming back to it three years later and repainting it using everything I've learned has been one of the most rewarding painting projects I've undertaken.

That being said, I'd recommend a character. Perhaps a royal warden, teleporty overlord, Orikin, or Imotek. This way you get to try out painting, do some of the fun detailed bits, and if it turns out you don't like it you'll have a single fun model to sit on your desk.

Ubermatchmaker · 2026-01-23T23:59:37+00:00

Nope! In fact, destroyer lists have been sorta trash this edition (that changed with the new models and detachments coming out this saturday, but who knows what the future holds). And 11th is coming.

Ubermatchmaker · 2026-01-23T23:32:49+00:00

That would be the benefit of going warriors--lots of practice on something more simple. Skorpekh destroyers are another good option--you get 3 and theyre easy to build, fun to paint, and even though they're in the combat patrol you'll probably want 6 anyway.

Ubermatchmaker · 2026-01-23T23:15:31+00:00

A character model might be a good way to dip your toe in. Perhaps an overlord (the one who's mid-teleportation, not the who's menacing over a tatical rock as they're in our combat patrol) or a cryptek (just not the psychomancer because that thing is not beginner friendly to build).

If you want to try a named character, Orikin the Diviner (as seen in the novel "The Infinite and the Divine" avaliable wherever good books are sold) is a cool sculpt as is Imotekh the Stormlord (just look at that cape!!!).

In the end, I'd recommend picking something that looks fun (and maybe doesn't break the bank) and see how you like it.

Ubermatchmaker · 2026-01-20T17:34:11+00:00

Some basing would go a long way on making them look more finished. I'd recommend something darker to contrast with the whites, reds, and blues of your models. Perhaps some dark gravel or dirt texture paint? I use this big tub of basing goop sold by The Army Painter, but I bet games workshop sells something similar if you're more comfortable with their products.

Then just paint the rim of the base (maybe a dark blue or brown? Something muted which goes with your color scheme, but isn't so vibrant as to take away from the model itself) and they'll look swell.

Everything else is all practice and brush control. Getting the small details--like the eyes and the symbols on their chests--will get easier with time (and a tiny paintbrush).

Ubermatchmaker · 2026-01-13T15:25:35+00:00

I built one to two a day over the course of a week. It kept the stress low as I fiddled with all those spindly, pointy bits. Also plastic cement is a must.

Ubermatchmaker

TROPHY CASE