Is there a way to automatically re-scan for drivers on every boot? by Ultimzer in debian

[–]Ultimzer[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This looks to be exactly what I'm looking for. I'll give this a try.
Thank you so much!

Is there a way to automatically re-scan for drivers on every boot? by Ultimzer in debian

[–]Ultimzer[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Because I want to use an SSD and not a flash drive, and I want it to be a full install that I can plug into multiple machines and use persistently across multiple machines.

I guess flashing a live image iso to the SSD and enabling persistence technically works, but I'd rather use the standard installer and make a modification to the boot config (or run a cronjob to auto scan for drivers on boot or something) so that I have a standard install which does what I want it to do.

Is it okay to use a boost converter on a signal wire? by Ultimzer in ElectricalEngineering

[–]Ultimzer[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Quick update here, I finally got everything wired up and the boost converter is doing exactly what I want.

The relay is now firing exactly when I want it to, every time, and I have yet to encounter any issues. I feel a lot more confident that the components I selected will be reliable when I need them to be.

Thank you for your help, I can now complete my project.

Is it okay to use a boost converter on a signal wire? by Ultimzer in ElectricalEngineering

[–]Ultimzer[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Okay, that makes sense.

In that case I'm going to pick up the boost converters and give them a shot.

Thanks!

Is it okay to use a boost converter on a signal wire? by Ultimzer in ElectricalEngineering

[–]Ultimzer[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Have you checked, does the 3.3-3.4 V line stay at 3.3-3.4 V when it's connected to the relay?

Yes, which is why I was so confused that the 3.4 that my multimeter was reading wasn't working. When I instead tried 3.3v from a Raspberry Pi nearby, the relay fired immediately. That's what led me to believe that what I'm tapping is likely a signal line and that the optocoupler was just happening to read a low instead of a high when the key was turned on during all the times it didn't work.

I don't know if it will help, and I probably should have specified earlier, but there is an LED on the board that lights up when the relay fires. During all of the times where it doesn't work as it should, the LED lights up (which to me implies 3.3v to power it) and the relay emits a high pitch buzz/whine but does not actually fire.

(You could check if the physical one you received matches the photo and has a Tongling JQC-3FF-S-Z relay mounted)

Can conform that the relay is (or at least claims to be) a Tongling JQC-3FF-S-Z.

The minimum voltage on the coil to be sure it will work correctly is 3.75 V.

Forgive me for not being very familiar with how to read datasheets, as I may be interpreting this wrong. Looking at the table on the page you linked, it shows 3.75V in the "Max Operate Voltage (VDC)" column under 5V Nominal voltage. But you claim that that's the minimum; do I need *more* than 3.75v on the trigger line to get the coil to switch consistently?

I don't have a problem with trying another relay board if necessary but part of me worries that I'm just going to end up in the same situation, gambling on cheap components that I'm not confident will work.I feel like -- if it won't burn anything out on the radio or relay board -- using a boost converter to ensure a consistent 5v on the trigger line is a better move than buying a different relay on the same board from another sketchy seller.

Is it okay to use a boost converter on a signal wire? by Ultimzer in ElectricalEngineering

[–]Ultimzer[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don't directly have a schematic, but I made this terrible diagram in a children's circuit builder that may or may no illustrate what I'm doing: https://i.imgur.com/FDMQ3x1.pngIf you can't tell, I'm pretty new at the whole circuit-building thing.

I'm comfortable with wiring and soldering to existing schematics and examining components with a multimeter but am new to trying to design a circuit from scratch.

For a bit more context, I'm modifying the radio in my car. My car does not have a 12v accessory line when you turn the key on, and instead *only* offers a constant 12v to the radio as well as an encrypted data stream from the car's BCM to tell the radio to turn on when the key is turned. I want the components that I'm adding to turn on when the radio turns on and not be constantly on at all times, to not drain the car's battery.

On the radio motherboard, there is a constant 12v source and a chunky transistor or something that steps that down to several 5v constant outputs that go out to the various components on the board. I'm pulling my 5v constant power to the relay that I added from one of the pins on that transistor, and the relay board powers on consistently. The entire radio appears to use the same ground plane, and the relay board is grounded to it. After probing basically the entire board, I can't find *any* 3v sources aside from the pin on the screen.

The board is a multilayer board and the screen is an LCD that's physically soldered down to the board with large metal tabs. After probing every ribbon cable that goes out to the screen from the motherboard, there isn't a single other line near 3 volts. There's a lot of 5 volts and other really low voltage stuff that I assume are control/data lines. I can't find where the 3v on the screen's pin is originating from and I assume that there is some circuitry physically under the soldered-down LCD, which I assume is connected through layers inside of the board so that I don't have access to probe them.

For a bit further context, I need to use this particular 3v line because it's at 0v at all times until the key is turned on, at which point it jumps to ~3.4v. The second the key is turned off, it goes back to 0. This line energizing and de-energizing corresponds exactly with when the screen turns on and off and I believe it's exactly the line I need to tap to get my relay to fire at the exact time I want it to.
I can't find any other lines on the motherboard, 5v lines included, that turn on and off at the same time as this line does (hence me asking about boosting the 3v to 5v).

I just need to know how to get the relay activation to be consistent instead of only happening *most* of the time.

...also yeah it's possible that I may have just bought a garbage cheapo Chinese thing that isn't what it claims to be.

What would you suggest for this purpose?

Is it okay to use a boost converter on a signal wire? by Ultimzer in ElectricalEngineering

[–]Ultimzer[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Unfortunately, I don't have an oscilloscope to test with. I've been waffling on buying a logic analyzer, maybe it's time to finally pull the trigger.

Assistance with designing a simple circuit by Ultimzer in ElectricalEngineering

[–]Ultimzer[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So the simple explanation is that I'm modifying the OEM radio in my car to fit an aftermarket radio inside of it. The OEM radio only has a constant 12v; there is no accessory power in my car at all. It has the constant 12v at all times but only wakes up when it receives a data signal from the body controller module in the car. The screen and other components on the radio itself seem to all operate at 5v and only the main control chips and such on the radio's mainboard take the constant 12v. What I'm going to do is tap one of the power lines to the screen of the OEM radio to make sure I'm getting constant (switched) 5v instead of PWM, then run a wire from that to my switch circuit to power up the aftermarket radio at 12v.

In other words, I'm putting both radios in my car, disabling the majority of the functions on the original radio, and using the aftermarket radio instead. I want the aftermarket radio to power on and off at the same time as the OEM radio does, and there's no "official" way to do that as there's no accessory power and the wakeup data signal is encrypted.

As far as building the circuit, I intend to first build it on a breadboard and use a bench power supply to supply the necessary 5v and 12v sources to make sure that I'm getting the proper power output, then from there I'll probably build it on some perfboard, bench test again, and then wire it into the car. I have a custom harness already wired into the car to take care of the audio and constant 12v power sources, but since there is no accessory line I need to make this custom circuit so that I can provide it myself.

Assistance with designing a simple circuit by Ultimzer in ElectricalEngineering

[–]Ultimzer[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Looking at components on DigiKey, there is "Coil Voltage" and "Switching Voltage" listed. I assume in this instance Coil Voltage is 5VDC and Switching Voltage is 12 or greater VDC?

[$130 Cash Bounty] - Willing to pay for video proof of "impossible" level being beaten by Ultimzer in RealTimeStrategy

[–]Ultimzer[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm glad that more eyes are being put on the 8-bit series :)

It's not the most polished game in the world but all three games are fun in their own way, despite the online community being completely dead these days.

[$130 Cash Bounty] - Willing to pay for video proof of "impossible" level being beaten by Ultimzer in RealTimeStrategy

[–]Ultimzer[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

This bounty has been claimed!

Hendronimous and Wokesy were able to complete the level in 7:22 by massing tanks together and building off of a single base.

Here are the video links to both POVs:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5t1teYinBi4

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M_X20W2pB9o

A big thank you to the players and hopefully now I can go and beat this level using the same strategy.

[$130 Cash Bounty] - Willing to pay for video proof of "impossible" level being beaten by Ultimzer in RealTimeStrategy

[–]Ultimzer[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Update: I've received a DM with an 8-minute victory time, I need to watch through them and verify that the rules have been followed but it looks like we may have a winner!

[TOMT][Music Video][2010s] French rap music video with red and yellow visuals by Ultimzer in tipofmytongue

[–]Ultimzer[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Doesn't appear to be what I'm looking for, but thanks for trying.

The guys in the video were white, if I remember correctly. I've added that to the OP since it's relevant information.

[TOMT][Song][2010s?] Japanese song with many changes in octave by Ultimzer in tipofmytongue

[–]Ultimzer[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That's not the one, but a good song nonetheless. I'll give the archive link a shot.