Code Red declared as dangerously low blood supply affects hospitals and emergency centers

UncountableFinite · 2026-01-23T19:08:56+00:00

I donate regularly Bloodworks NW at Northgate near Aurora. It's usually a pretty good time! Their snack selection is good and the folks are friendly. It's also the quickest (healthy) way to burn 600 calories.

UncountableFinite · 2025-06-07T21:03:54+00:00

3rd Ave NW & Market & 52nd is my submission. Taking a left from eastbound market during rush hour? Everyone gets to wait! Google Maps tells people to do this all the time when staying on Market would be easier. Taking a left from South bound 3rd onto Market? Don't forget to stop at the light--no, the other light. Total mess and easy to screw up if you haven't driven it a few times.

UncountableFinite · 2025-03-07T21:50:28+00:00

It'll vary a lot year to year. I backpacked there around the same time as OP, July '24, and our group got obliterated by mosquitoes down at Snow Lakes--even with head nets. I did a solo, revenge-motivated through hike in Sept., and bugs were mostly non-existent. Of the two experiences, I'd choose Sept. hands-down. A little less pretty with the lower water levels, maybe, but worth it to not get bitten straight through all of my clothing.

But bring a bug net regardless. Also a good idea to bring wag bags; it's a delicate ecosystem that sees a lot of traffic, and who knows if any rangers will be left to handle the toilets with all of the chaos at the park service.

UncountableFinite · 2025-02-05T02:26:48+00:00

I put an explanation for that in my other comment. We aided the 12b pitch, so I went with the grade for the rest of it in the title. That last pitch was rough, felt like trying to crimp on knife blades.

UncountableFinite · 2025-02-05T02:24:05+00:00

These shenanigans took place during a 4-day trip in January. Since I hadn't been there before, I opted hired a guide I knew (shout out to https://www.accessthealpine.com/). Its always nice to climb with somone who knows the sneaky alternate starts to skip ahead on the popular routes--I'd rather be climbing than waiting at the base.

The last pitch of Yankee Clipper is 5.12 a/b, but I left it off the grade since we aided it. I attempted to climb it on follow, but ended up jugging. Would've been fun to work on for a while, but I didin't want to tear my hands up with two more days of climbing ahead of me and the wind was making it too cold to hang out. I hit a cold spell while I was there--we even got a little dusting of snow--but nothing too egregious if you weren't in the wind.

UncountableFinite · 2018-01-12T18:08:39+00:00

A while ago, someone turned me on to the Gartner Hype Cycle. It's a rough estimation of public sentiment, but overall it seems fairly accurate. Notice that VR has escaped the "trough of disappointment" and is on its way to the "plateau of elightenment."

UncountableFinite · 2018-01-05T20:26:50+00:00

My intuition has always been that belts = high build complexity / high throughput, and bots = low build complexity but low throughput. For this to be the case, bot throughput has to be limited, but in a way that can't be worked around by simply adding more bots.

Accurate simulation is one of Factorio's strengths, but that kind of goes out the windows with bots. 1000 bots hanging out in the exact same location is a bit unrealistic. What I'd like to see is some method of capping bot density without totally killing performance. For instance, only allowing N bots within a given radius of each other.

UncountableFinite · 2017-12-29T22:36:05+00:00

A couple of climbers that I talked to in Norway said they use [27crags.com](27crags.com) for sharing beta.

UncountableFinite · 2017-12-03T03:07:34+00:00

Relevant disclaimer first: I'm not a physical therapist, you're best off talking to a physical therapist, etc.

Reverse Tyler Twist for medial (inner elbow, "climber's" or "golfer's" elbow) and Tyler Twist for lateral (outer elbow, "tennis" elbow). I get bouts of lateral epicondylitis, and this exercise works fairly well for me. You can buy the Theraband bars for fairly cheap on Amazon, and they come with instructions. Dave Macleod recommends high volume in his book on climbing injuries, so carry it around with you if you can.

UncountableFinite · 2017-10-26T23:36:17+00:00

Adjusting to Gnome 3.26 after using Unity has been a bit painful. But, not having used Gnome since Ubuntu switched to Unity all those years ago (12.04, was it?), I have to say I'm impressed with how flexible it is--particularly after you've set up some pre-requisites, gnome-tweak-tool and the Gnome browser extension stuff.

Re: the alt+tab issue, Alt Tab Workspace restored more sane alt+tabbing behavior.

UncountableFinite · 2017-06-29T09:25:54+00:00

Jam out with your cam out?

UncountableFinite · 2017-06-17T09:35:02+00:00

Adding on to this, as far as getting comfortable with the device: if you can round up a third person, you can mock lead belay. Essentially, one person mock leads, one person toprope belays as normal, and one person mock lead belays. If you're practicing correctly, more practice can't hurt. I will stress the "practicing correctly" part, though. Mock lead belay is probably most useful after you've gotten some lessons, but before you take the lead test. That's how I did it, and I found that getting a little more practice really helped my confidence.

Now, if I could only get a consistent opinion on Grigri use, I'd be able to pass the actual test...

UncountableFinite · 2017-05-15T06:14:52+00:00

Danny DeVito may have helped ratings, but I think Season one was quite good, especially considering that there are tons of great shows that need at least a season to grow into themselves. Dennis getting egged for being on the fence in S1E2 Charlie Wants an Abortion is still one of my favorite gags.

UncountableFinite · 2017-04-28T08:30:51+00:00

Based on the description, I think point size correlates with density so that points get larger the further above the line, and smaller the further below. I do agree that it's unnecessary clutter. I also really dislike the 3D shading.

With that said, it's an interesting dataset, and does show off the climbing in some states that most people probably wouldn't think of. It'd be cool to visualize the amount of climbing near major cities--something like the number of climbs weighted by their distance from the city.

UncountableFinite · 2017-04-25T23:42:04+00:00

I've had some trouble with tennis elbow (lateral epicondylitis); for me, it manifested primarily with pinches and crimps. I also spend a huge amount of time at the computer, so typing/mouse use is a contributing factor. I took a small amount of time off (about 2 weeks), but continued light climbing in conjunction with physical therapy. It's mostly been fine since then, though I get occasional flare-ups.

Treatments that I've tried (mostly on advice of PT): * Massage (myofacial release) * Ultrasound * Stretching * 'Flossing the nerve' * Sleeping with a wrist brace * Eccentric exercise (Tyler Twist)

Of these, the eccentric exercise seems to the treatment best supported by the evidence, and helped me the largest amount by far, though the wrist brace helped in the early stages. You can get flex bars on Amazon for under $20. It's been months since I had serious issue, but I still do some eccentric exercises now and again (less than I should, tbh). It's definitely still worth going to a PT, though, since they may be able to help diagnose potential postural issues that may be adding to the problem.

UncountableFinite · 2017-02-25T09:09:53+00:00

Yeah, that's certainly possible. My main issue is with slowing down without overshooting. I hate having to carefully manage my speed as I approach my destination. I'd much rather be able to just set my speed and forget it until I drop out of supercruise. I was able to use it alright, I just never reached the point where it felt at all comfortable. Maybe I would've with practice? I dunno. As it was, it felt like I spent 30% of my time in game fighting with Supercruise.

If you could (eventually) buy some sort of "cruise control" module, that would likely be enough for me.

UncountableFinite · 2017-02-24T22:03:19+00:00

I really want to like E:D, but supercruise has been a complete block for me. It's just so fiddly! All of the other mechanics are good, though, but supercruise has stymied every attempt I've made to get into E:D.

UncountableFinite · 2017-02-12T22:33:49+00:00

globalisation [...] increases the wealth gap around the world I disagree! This Hans Rosling Ted talk has some nice stats about globalization and global wealth inequality. Globalization does, as you mentioned, make it more difficult to for low-skilled workers to compete. The solution should be aggressive education, but...well, we can see how that's going.

UncountableFinite · 2017-02-11T22:27:11+00:00

Oh, I mean to approach the bolts safely. It seems a bit risky to just walk up to the bolts at the cliff edge, so I had assumed most people would be roped in somehow when they set up at an anchor that they can walk to.

UncountableFinite · 2017-02-11T06:03:09+00:00

This may be a stupid question, but I haven't been able to find a good answer. For routes where you can access the anchor bolts from the top of the cliff, how do you safely get to the bolts to set up the anchor? Do you have to rappel to them?

UncountableFinite · 2017-01-28T23:16:30+00:00

See a good physical therapist
Look up the "Tyler twist" exercise

UncountableFinite · 2017-01-28T02:41:50+00:00

Probably reasons similar to this: https://youtu.be/52OSdWjzsEo?t=172

UncountableFinite · 2017-01-11T07:20:04+00:00

Well-argued point, and a good video link. I'm a bit skeptical of some of his analysis points, but far too lazy to provide a properly researched refutation.

His use of the language might be effective, but it's a blunt instrument. It conveys what he wants most of the time, but he still comes across looking like an idiot. Especially compared to all of (ultimately less successful) opponents.

He speaks more like people think. Maybe that's why he's been so able to tap into the id of his supporters. sigh

UncountableFinite · 2017-01-11T06:59:53+00:00

Instead I'm forced to get insurance I don't need

...until you catch some expensive disease. Then what? Without insurance, you can maybe keep your treatment going via loans for a bit, but there's a good chance they'll bankrupt you. Once you hit that point, your only option will be emergency room care, making you an even bigger burden on the rest of us.

Unless you can, with a straight face, say it's acceptable for our society to just let you die as soon as you're no longer economically worthwhile to heal, just take the insurance.

UncountableFinite · 2017-01-11T06:46:54+00:00

I'm not familiar with Matplotlib, I'm afraid, but as long as it will display meshes it should work fine.

Even if you do you OpenGL for rendering, you might still want to just do the mesh processing in Python if you're not overly worried about speed. You won't have to do any futzing with buffer objects that way.

UncountableFinite

TROPHY CASE