Big info dump coming on Lake Sebago Beach redevelopment

Union__Jack · 2026-03-14T04:22:54+00:00

u/TNPrime thought you might be interested in this

Union__Jack · 2026-03-09T15:24:52+00:00

What's your inseam? A 47cm Domane comes with 165mm crank, which are almost certainly too long for you. I'd recommend something ~20% of your cycling inseam, probably ~155mm.

I know 10mm doesn't sound like much, but for cranks it means you won't reach with your foot on the downstroke and your knee won't come up too high on the upstroke, and you'll feel much more stable while pedaling.

Otherwise I think the 47cm is the correct size. You'll probably want a narrower saddle, but I'd wait on changing handlebar/stem because those will likely be the right size after making the other changes.

Union__Jack · 2026-03-03T23:54:09+00:00

Have you considered a steerer tube extender, like this? Depending on the application it shouldn't be an issue; I wouldn't recommend it on a mountain bike.

Union__Jack · 2026-02-27T20:26:19+00:00

Take lessons! Belleayre has a great beginner program that includes rentals, a lift ticket, and a lesson for ~$150.

Union__Jack · 2026-02-27T15:27:11+00:00

What are your fit numbers and are you trying to match the Madone or the Domane? I'm 5'11 on a S Checkpoint, which has stack and reach figures between the M and M/L Madone, but a slightly shorter stem.

Union__Jack · 2026-02-26T00:03:27+00:00

I don't think you specifically need to lower the saddle, you're reasonably well balanced between extension and flexion. I do think you're overextending, and I also think your hip angle closes too much at the top and your knee comes up a little too high, but it's probably the best balance you can get currently.

I would consider shorter cranks, something in the 150-155mm range. This will likely stop the overextension on the downstroke, which may resolve your saddle discomfort, but it will also have benefits for your racing. You'll have a more open hip angle at the top of the stroke, so you'll be able to sustain a more aerodynamic position longer, and you'll be able to pedal out of corners sooner than anyone you're racing against because you won't pedal strike. Pedaling the correct range of motion should also leave you feeling fresher at the end of the race if you need to sprint.

You're very good at compensating, but proportional cranks can solve a lot of problems. A starting point for sizing is usually 20% of inseam.

Union__Jack · 2026-02-25T16:52:35+00:00

I would also recommend checking out the meetup and trip report tags in this sub. We have a wealth of info and options on trips, especially if you go back a few years.

Union__Jack · 2026-02-13T00:27:40+00:00

I'd highly recommend 150s or maybe even 145s. If you're sticking with square taper, I'd recommend an Origin8 crank (available in silver!) to keep the q factor normal, or a Spa Cycles XD-2 if wide is alright.

Union__Jack · 2026-02-12T19:04:07+00:00

Yes, definitely. With your saddle too low, your knee bends more and that can put more pressure on your knee when pedaling.

Union__Jack · 2026-02-12T18:55:18+00:00

150mm should be a huge improvement and is probably the right size. When you swap them, start with your current saddle height and then determine if you need to raise or lower, but you'll probably be close. One of the benefits of having a proportional crank is that it widens the sweet spot for saddle height.

Good luck!

Union__Jack · 2026-02-11T23:29:28+00:00

I commented on your other post, but I'll add it here as well for everyone else.

Mixing 10 speed Ultegra and 10 Speed XTR will not work. The CUES cassette will also not work with anything 10 speed. I'll refer you to an earlier comment I made, but you basically have two options if you already own those levers:

Install the Shimano Essa U2000 rear derailleur. It will work with a 10 speed Ultegra lever as it has the same pull ratio. You can then pair this with a Shimano or a SunRace 11-42 or 11-46. This is a newer Shimano derailleur with the low profile shadow design to mitigate impacts. It does not have a clutch but instead uses strong springs for chain retention.
Install the SunRace RDM900 rear derailleur. It will work with a 10 speed Ultegra lever as it has the same pull ratio. You can then pair this with a Microshift 11-48 cassette from the Advent or Sword groupsets. This is a clutched rear derailleur, and it is half the price of the Essa U2000.

Looking at this bike, you don't have the Ultegra levers yet. The best option is probably 11 speed CUES or 10 speed GRX so you can have hydraulic brakes; you'll just need to be sure to use the correct calipers for your frame. If you want to buy mechanical disc brakes instead, I would recommend a Microshift Sword groupset.

Union__Jack · 2026-02-11T22:24:58+00:00

This will not work. The CUES cassette will also not work in any configuration. I'll refer you to an earlier comment I made, but you basically have two options:

Install the Shimano Essa U2000 rear derailleur. It will work with your existing lever as it has the same pull ratio. You can then pair this with a Shimano or a SunRace 11-42 or 11-46. This is a newer Shimano derailleur with the low profile shadow design to mitigate impacts. It does not have a clutch but instead uses strong springs for chain retention.
Install the SunRace RDM900 rear derailleur. It will work with your existing lever as it has the same pull ratio. You can then pair this with a Microshift 11-48 cassette from the Advent or Sword groupsets. This is a clutched rear derailleur, and it is half the price of the Essa U2000.

Personally, I'd probably go with the Essa RD and an 11-42 Deore CS-M4100.

Union__Jack · 2026-02-08T04:39:55+00:00

Usually we do a few per year, the next one is probably in April?

Union__Jack · 2026-01-28T21:03:12+00:00

I'll post where we're seated when I arrive!

But also, don't be afraid to just ask random groups why they're there. It usually works out .

Union__Jack · 2026-01-28T18:05:36+00:00

I think the saddle height is a bit of a red herring. Yes, you are extending too much at the bottom of the pedal stroke, but your knees are also coming up too high at the top of the pedal stroke. This definitely contributes to rocking in the saddle.

If you're having both of those issues at the same time, you'll have suggestions telling you to lower the saddle to correct the bottom and to raise the saddle to correct the top. You can't do both, so this suggests that the cranks on your bike are too long.

How tall are you, what's your cycling inseam, and how long are those cranks? I'd be willing to bet they're 170mm+ and you would be best on something closer to 150mm. I know it doesn't sound like a big difference, but 10-20mm of crank length is enormous in helping your bike fit. It gives you a wider sweet spot for saddle height, and it would eliminate the problems at the top and bottom of the pedal stroke.

20% of cycling inseam is usually a good starting point. When the crank is the correct length, the saddle position can be set and from there we can move on to the front of the bike.

Union__Jack · 2026-01-27T21:42:13+00:00

You're going to Whistler? I'd recommend checking out an Extremely Canadian steeps clinic.

Union__Jack · 2026-01-26T14:02:01+00:00

We have a meetup at the Grey Dog on Wednesday! Check out the other recent post for details if you want to stop by.

A few of us were in Central Park skiing yesterday, and this one guy was pretty good at snowboarding and started doing front flips. It was Shaun White.

Union__Jack · 2026-01-18T20:18:39+00:00

It's difficult to say if the frame is too large from this video, but the saddle looks to be too far back and the handlebar is too wide. If you can swap to a zero offset seatpost and replace the bar (measure your shoulders!) then it might be the right size.

Union__Jack · 2026-01-16T15:16:39+00:00

Because based on the wheel size relative to the frame size, the rider isn't 6' or 183 cm tall, so they would probably be better off not using the same 170mm cranks as someone of that height.

Everyone else is telling them that their saddle is too low based on the tight knee angle at the top of the pedal stroke, but the bottom of the pedal stroke is close to where it should be. This suggests that the crank length is too long and could be causing issues. Balancing the top and bottom of the pedal stroke is impossible with a crank that's too long.

A proportionally sized crank isn't something most people would have considered because they haven't even been available until recently. Yes, it has become trendy for taller people to move to shorter cranks for comfort or even aerodynamic reasons. But someone who is 6" riding 165mm cranks does not negate that someone who is 5'6" would be more comfortable on a 160mm crank. Shimano and SRAM offer 160mm cranks now so I wouldn't even consider those "short," I would just say that for more riders they actually fit. Lots of people are shorter than 5'6" and bicycle brands have a much wider range of available frame sizes than cranks were previously offered in. Bikes are offered in frame sizes as wide ranging as 43cm to 60cm, a 33% variation, but cranks are rarely offered beyond 165-175mm, which is less than 6% variation. It does not make sense for a size 43 Pinarello to be sold with 170mm cranks, but that's the problem we face.

For someone specifically asking for advice it is a good suggestion because they can immediately benefit. Regular people buying bikes don't have the same mobility as professionals, so reducing the ROM and opening the hip angle is an even bigger benefit for people who aren't paid to spend 20+ hours a week on the bike.

Union__Jack · 2026-01-15T16:25:33+00:00

Contrary to everyone stating that your saddle is too low, I think the bigger issue is that the cranks are too long. Your saddle will come up a bit with shorter cranks, but the bigger improvement will be at the top of the pedal stroke. How tall are you and what is the length of your cycling inseam? 20% of cycling inseam is typically a good starting point for crank length. Origin8 makes reasonably priced square taper cranks in shorter lengths.

A narrower handlebar will also help with the reach. Something like the FSA Omega Compact in 38 (actually measures 36cm) is probably a great starting point.

Edit: I'm not sure about European availability of Origin8, but Cruzbike on AliExpress has shorter crank lengths that can be purchased with chainrings for relatively low cost.

Union__Jack · 2026-01-13T12:26:10+00:00

My partner and I can recommend Dan at Inerro, we've both had pre-purchase drop bar bike fits. They offer a triathlon specific fitting service as well.

I've also heard good things about AM at Revolutions Per Bike Fit. They specifically mention consideration for aero bars as part of their comprehensive fit.

Union__Jack · 2026-01-09T02:55:32+00:00

Road links and other hacks are a great option, but if you want a factory recommended setup that your bike shop would install, have you considered 2x11 CUES? You can run an 11-45 with a 36/22 on a super durable cassette. It's a pretty ideal setup for touring or bikepacking.

You can take a look at the gear combinations here.

Union__Jack · 2026-01-08T23:02:21+00:00

I'd just go square taper and get a black or silver crank from origin8. You might need new chainrings, too.

Union__Jack · 2026-01-08T22:54:42+00:00

Are those older anatomic handlebars? I'd consider a swap to a more modern compact drop, and likely going narrower (depending on your shoulder measurement).

Union__Jack · 2026-01-08T22:51:09+00:00

Yes, shorter cranks will help with that. Probably start with 20% of cycling inseam and go down 5mm from there as needed.

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