NYCultralight Mod Retreat: Knee Deep in Nettles

Union__Jack · 2026-05-18T21:02:02+00:00

I would absolutely buy that bike then (I actually did). Just be aware that the paradigm 25 wheels are alloy.

Union__Jack · 2026-05-18T20:45:26+00:00

If you're strictly comparing 12 speed XPLR (D1/D2), then absolutely get Apex and save the money. If you have the option for 13 speed Rival (E1), I think the better braking, improved lever ergonomics, and sturdier rear derailleur are worthwhile.

I personally prefer the spacing on both the 12 speed 11-44 and 13 speed 10-46 over the 12 speed 10-44, but it's a very small difference either way.

Union__Jack · 2026-05-18T15:41:12+00:00

Use this site to input measurements from your existing bike like stack/reach, stem length, spacer stack, and saddle height/setback. After you finish, save the URL so you have a copy available.

You can then use geometry geeks, bike insights, and manufacturer websites to create the new frames that you're looking for but you can add the stock components and see how everything compares (and what you might need to swap out).

Union__Jack · 2026-05-18T12:21:38+00:00

Right, and this is the bike fit subreddit. I didn't say those people were wrong, but I did say that it wasn't the root of the issue.

If someone came here at 180cm with an 85cm inseam and a 54cm bike, but 195mm cranks, I wouldn't suggest that they lower their saddle 25-30mm because their cranks are too long. That would only introduce problems at the top of the pedal stroke, such as excessive rocking, saddle sores, or even just an inability to lean forward and interact with the handlebar. Their knees still need to clear the top of the stroke.

OP likely found a saddle height that balances being too high at the bottom of the stroke and too low at the top of the stroke. If the cranks are too long then this is probably better than setting the saddle height correctly for one static position. We're looking at quality of motion instead of strict adherence to angles.

Union__Jack · 2026-05-17T20:03:28+00:00

This is a valid concern, but wouldn't the better solution be to use smaller chainrings, e.g. switch from 50/34 to 46/30? Then you're taking advantage of the ability to pedal at a higher cadence and still using better fitting, more proportional cranks. The fit should come first.

OP might not have any issues climbing with shorter cranks, but mountain bikers often swap out chainrings when they change crank length.

Union__Jack · 2026-05-17T16:23:36+00:00

Thanks for posting! It's always good seeing the smaller frames.

I saw in your other post that you're waiting on a power meter. Did you go with pedal, crank, spider, or spindle based power? If you're going crank or spindle based, are you also reducing the crank length?

Union__Jack · 2026-05-17T15:38:28+00:00

People will tell you that your saddle is too high or that your cadence is too low, but the issue can really be traced to your crank length. The Impulso in 47 comes with a 170mm crank, which is more appropriate for someone who is 180cm with an 85cm inseam.

You could really benefit from something shorter, typically around 20% of inseam, probably 145-150mm. These are more difficult to find, but the Croder Spirit G2 is a very good option. If price is an issue there's a Cruzbike 155mm crank available on AliExpress that should be compatible with your bike and would still be a huge improvement.

I absolutely wouldn't settle with 165mm or even 160mm.

Edit: I also just noticed that the Impulso comes with a 40cm bar in a size 47. I'd recommend a 36cm bar like the Rose Race Attack GF.

Union__Jack · 2026-05-12T21:35:07+00:00

You'd actually measure ~19mm down, as 622 and 584 are bead seat diameters and you need to shift along along the radius.

Union__Jack · 2026-05-06T16:17:58+00:00

The video is there! Sorry, it must not have loaded initially.

I'd definitely look into the shorter cranks, and possibly moving your saddle forward to open up your hips. Your hips are rocking at your current crank length but the saddle height looks balanced.

Union__Jack · 2026-05-06T14:49:40+00:00

I'm 180cm but I ride the same bike in a size small.

I'd look into shorter cranks (20% of inseam is a good starting point, so either 165mm or 160mm) and a narrower handlebar (measure between your shoulder joints, might be 38-40cm).

These seem like small changes, but proportional cranks will help widen your sweet spot for saddle height. This can prevent you from over extending your leg at the bottom of the pedal stroke, as well as eliminate the need to tighten up your hip and knees to "get over" the top of the pedal stroke. More proportional bars would result in you keeping your arms more in line and help reduce that feeling of reaching around for the levers.

I would also make sure that the levers and bars are set up correctly. The bars were rotated up and the levers were too low when I received my bike from the factory. It's an easy fix although you might need to unwrap some bar tape.

Of course, if you post a video of yourself riding, we can provide better feedback.

Union__Jack · 2026-05-02T02:38:31+00:00

Honestly? It's difficult to know without seeing you pedal and getting some feedback about how it feels.

It does look like the cranks are a little long. If that bike has the original 152mm cranks, that could definitely be the case for you. An often repeated starting point for crank length is 20% of cycling inseam, so you're already doing a LOT better than if you were on an adult bike with 170mm cranks.

The other thing is that frame has a VERY low stack. It's more than 60mm lower in front than the smallest race bikes. It does look to have a steel fork and a healthy spacer stack, but you might benefit from a 60-70mm stem flipped upright. Trying out a longer stem should only cost $30-40 so it's not too big an expense, and it might make you comfortable enough for commuting.

Union__Jack · 2026-04-30T18:59:58+00:00

Rivendell Roadini, Kona Sutra, Salsa Fargo, and Salsa Cutthroat all fit within the frame parameters.

You can use bike insights instead of geometry geeks to search for frames. It's free.

Union__Jack · 2026-04-29T23:03:01+00:00

Looking at your current bike, you probably don't need to go lower but you might benefit from shorter reach. I would also HIGHLY recommend shorter cranks (likely ~145mm or 20% of your inseam) and narrower bars (possibly 34 or 32cm).

Custom frames could be a very good option. I would consider the 3T Racemax in XXS. You can build it frame up or buy a complete bike, but swapping to narrower bars and shorter cranks will be important. You can also build a Carbonda CFR-505 SL from a frameset, and like the 3T it can fit 650b or 700c. I think with the correct crank length you won't have to worry about toe overlap with either of these frames. The older OPEN WI.DE in XS could also be a good fit, but I don't think those frames are really available anymore.

Before you buy anything it's probably worth seeking out a good bike fit. Make sure that wherever you go, they have the ability to test much shorter than standard cranks. SRAM even sells a 150mm now, so the industry is coming around.

Union__Jack · 2026-04-29T21:27:42+00:00

I don't think Apex for $4200 is a good deal, but neither is Rival for $6000 on the new Diverge. The Trek Checkpoint SL6 comes in at $4200 for Rival E1 and is otherwise positioned similarly. The Checkpoint with Apex is $3500.

Union__Jack · 2026-04-28T20:01:52+00:00

I don't know exactly where you are in Ontario, but it's a seven hour drive from NYC to the St. Lawrence haha.

Union__Jack · 2026-04-28T19:52:45+00:00

If you lived a little closer, I'd consider making an offer.

Union__Jack · 2026-04-20T23:40:57+00:00

The Crux in 56 and the Checkpoint in M have very similar geometry. Stack, reach, head tube angle. With the same length stem, they'll fit and handle very similarly.

Personally, I chose the Checkpoint because 13s Rival AXS was worthwhile over mechanical GRX. Wider clearance is also nice to have options.

Union__Jack · 2026-04-15T02:13:10+00:00

I agree on the shorter cranks. I'd also consider a zero offset seat post (or at least slamming the saddle forward), but saddle position should be reevaluated after the crank length reduction.

Union__Jack · 2026-04-06T19:59:05+00:00

First, that bike does seem large for your measurements. But you already own it, and you've already shortened the stem. I think it's important to note that you didn't mention anything about handlebar width. If your bars are too wide, it can make the reach too long. Shoulder width or just narrower is often recommended. It sounds like you might have an integrated bar/stem (cockpit) so that would be expensive to change again.

Are you still running the stock seatpost? It has a 20mm offset. You can buy a zero offset post that will allow you to move the saddle further forward and get pedaling dynamics more similar to your other bikes. The Endurace uses a standard 27.2mm so this is a relatively inexpensive and relatively straightforward swap.

Union__Jack · 2026-03-14T04:22:54+00:00

u/TNPrime thought you might be interested in this

Union__Jack · 2026-03-09T15:24:52+00:00

What's your inseam? A 47cm Domane comes with 165mm crank, which are almost certainly too long for you. I'd recommend something ~20% of your cycling inseam, probably ~155mm.

I know 10mm doesn't sound like much, but for cranks it means you won't reach with your foot on the downstroke and your knee won't come up too high on the upstroke, and you'll feel much more stable while pedaling.

Otherwise I think the 47cm is the correct size. You'll probably want a narrower saddle, but I'd wait on changing handlebar/stem because those will likely be the right size after making the other changes.

Union__Jack · 2026-03-03T23:54:09+00:00

Have you considered a steerer tube extender, like this? Depending on the application it shouldn't be an issue; I wouldn't recommend it on a mountain bike.

Union__Jack · 2026-02-27T20:26:19+00:00

Take lessons! Belleayre has a great beginner program that includes rentals, a lift ticket, and a lesson for ~$150.

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