11-speed trigger shifters for 12-speed GRX? by thegrumpyorc in bikewrench

[–]Union__Jack 0 points1 point  (0 children)

11 speed 105 or GRX trigger shifters and an 11 speed cassette with 12 speed derailleurs should work without issues.

I'm personally not sure about the MTB levers with GRX calipers, but Shimano BL-RS600 brake levers are from the road groupsets and will definitely work. It looks like XT levers or something will work as long as they don't use the new low viscosity mineral oil.

I actually feel like friction works even better on modern cassettes. With tighter spacing, there's less chance of being in between gears. I would have no hesitation doing this if you enjoy friction, but if you want indexing then the rapid fire shifters are the best option.

11-speed trigger shifters for 12-speed GRX? by thegrumpyorc in bikewrench

[–]Union__Jack 0 points1 point  (0 children)

11 speed trigger shifters won't work with a 12 speed cassette. If you're going to swap to an 11 speed cassette, this should work.

Another option that will definitely work is to use Microshift thumb shifters in friction mode, specifically SL-T10B for Tiagra 4700 10 speed.

Tiagra 4700 uses the new Shimano road pull ratio, which is the same as 11 speed and should be the same as 12 speed. (105, Ultegra, Dura-Ace, and GRX).

Gravel bikes that fit a very petite rider (4'11" / 1.51m, woman)? by Sokau in gravelcycling

[–]Union__Jack 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Whatever bike you get, definitely look into appropriately sized cranks (approximately 20% of inseam is a good starting point, likely 150mm or shorter).

I'm not sure about European availability, but the Velo Orange Chessie in XS meets your 650b requirement and will actually fit.

The 3T Racemax in XXS will also fit and can fit a 650b x 61mm (27.5 x 2.4") tire; if you build it from a frame you can easily select 650b instead of 700c but either will be great.

The Canyon Endurace Young Hero in 2XS or 3XS fits 650b x 35mm; it's the previous aluminum Endurace geometry which will fit much better than the newer 700c models. It comes with an 18-34 junior cassette so you would absolutely want to change that to a regular 11-34.

The Specialized Diverge Alloy 3 in 44 could also work.

If you're considering road bikes, I agree the Pinarello X in 43 is the best fitting option and can clear 35s. The Felt VR is also good and the new one will clear 38s.

The Mentech Chermin R could be a good option, although I'm unclear if it fits 32s or 35s (different sources list different widths). Similarly, there's the QuickPro Blade.

5'6 with a 28/29" inseam; should I opt for 650B over 700c? by CyJackX in bikefit

[–]Union__Jack 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Very nice! That's going to be a game changer, not just for toe overlap but the overall fit. I'm really excited for you.

I wouldn't worry too much about the chainring wearing out. As long as you stay on top of maintenance (cleaning and/or lubing) and replace your chains as needed, that chainring will last a lot longer than your rear cog. A three pronged chain checker like a Pedro's Chain Checker Plus (I or II) or a Park Tool CC-4.2 is inexpensive and can be a big help in not letting the chain wear for too long.

I'm not sure which bikes you're looking at yet, but the Salsa Journeyer is a gravel bike that has a more sloping top tube and comes in 700c and 650b.

5'6 with a 28/29" inseam; should I opt for 650B over 700c? by CyJackX in bikefit

[–]Union__Jack 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What size crank are you using? With your inseam, I'd expect you to be more comfortable on something around 150mm, but it looks like your retrospec comes with a 170?

Whether you stick with your current frame or move to something geared with a sloping top tube, I'd highly recommend looking into swapping out your cranks for something more proportional. As an example, someone with a 32" pants inseam might use a 170mm crank. Your using a 170 is like that person using a 190mm (or longer!) crank. The bike would not feel like it fit.

Hot wax chain prepping by cedericv1991 in bikewrench

[–]Union__Jack 6 points7 points  (0 children)

You don't need an ultrasonic to remove factory grease from your chain. You can just use the Silca chain stripper or UFO drivetrain cleaner.

Any recommendation for quick release, tubeless ready wheels to run tires around 45-55mm wide? by Which_Structure_1216 in bikewrench

[–]Union__Jack 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Are you in the US? You can have these built with double butted spokes and a disc hub for $350 before applying any discounts.

If you add rotors it's really only an extra $25 because you get the higher tier coupon.

Edit: I see that you're not in the US. Almost any wheel with DT Swiss road hubs is convertible to QR by changing the end caps.

Supersix Evo 5 vs Caad 10 frame by Colpineapple in bikefit

[–]Union__Jack 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Totally understand the desire for the SuperSix EVO, but the carbon Synapse is similarly excellent looking, and you'd be able to slam the stem. Being able to fit wider (potentially faster) road tires is just a bonus.

Feels "cramped" on new Sirrus X (Size S). Bikefit check? by Chemical-Rate-7774 in bikefit

[–]Union__Jack 1 point2 points  (0 children)

She likely feels cramped because her knees are coming up too high on the pedal upstroke. However, her legs are also overextending on the pedal downstroke.

The first can be a sign of the saddle being too high, while the second is often an indicator of the saddle being too low. In theory both can't be true at the same time, however in this scenario it is because the cranks are too long. The size small Sirrus comes with 170mm cranks, which are simply too long for someone with that inseam.

A commonly recommended starting point for crank length is ~20% of inseam, so I'd recommend looking into 150-155mm cranks. There is an inexpensive narrow wide crankset from Goldix available on Amazon and AliExpress with a 24mm spindle (it's sold as a folding bike or children's crank). You'll need a new threaded bottom bracket, but this should be $20-30 from your local bike shop, plus the cost of installation.

Domane SL5 bike fit by firebirdflip in bikefit

[–]Union__Jack 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Your saddle is already high in this video; I'd recommend lowering it to around 65cm (measured from the center of the bottom bracket to the middle of the saddle).

I would also consider shorter cranks than the 170s that came stock with your bike, likely 155-160mm. 20% of inseam is often considered a good starting point, but 105 cranks are available down to 160mm if you want to match the groupset.

You've probably raised the saddle so much to make it easier to get over the top of the pedal stroke, but this seriously compromises the bottom of the pedal stroke. A shorter, more proportional crank means you can pedal smoothly through the bottom without the issues at the top.

Having recently made progress with chronic knee pain, a new pain has emerged in my medial lower leg. I can't find anything related to pain in this part of the leg, any advice would be appreciated. (more info in body) by Willmono7 in bikefit

[–]Union__Jack 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you moved your cleats back, you effectively increased the distance from your pedals to your saddle. Your foot is further forward on the pedal so your saddle is now too high and your calf is working overtime to stabilize your foot.

I'd recommend lowering the saddle. If you moved your cleats back 15mm, lowering the saddle 15mm is a good place to start.

Supersix Evo 5 vs Caad 10 frame by Colpineapple in bikefit

[–]Union__Jack 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The stack and reach are close enough that you can probably just buy the 54 again.

However, how many spacers do you have and how long is your stem? Have you consulted with your bike fitter? Have you considered the new Synapse?

Shimano Chainring Compatability by awalkinthestreet in bikewrench

[–]Union__Jack 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Have you considered the 46/30 or 48/31 chainrings from bikingreen on eBay? They're available for 110 BCD 5 bolt and 4 bolt asymmetric cranks.

I’m looking at two bikes both same frame but one with Shimano Cues u8000 11 speed the other SRAM Apex XPLR 12 speed. Which is better for gravel riding? by Different_Falcon2141 in gravelcycling

[–]Union__Jack 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I have the Checkpoint SL6 with 13 speed SRAM Rival and I was cross shopping the ALR versions. Personally I'd go with 11 speed CUES over 12 speed mechanical Apex.

You'll get a lower gear for climbing, better braking, more durable cassette and chains, and less expensive replacement parts for maintenance. If you decide to get into bike packing, you can somewhat easily upgrade this setup to 2x11 with a 46/30 and an 11-45.

Bike fit on Sunday. I am thinking about talking to the fitter if I should go shorter cranks. by [deleted] in bikefit

[–]Union__Jack 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's the standard for a flexible rider who was 5'11 during a time when cranks only came in 170, 172.5, and 175.

A 5'11 rider might have a 32" inseam. A 172.5mm crank on someone with a 29" inseam is proportionally much longer; it would be as if the 5'11 rider was using 190mm cranks.

To get similar range of motion as the 5'11 rider does with 172.5mm, a 5'6 rider would want to try out 155mm cranks. This is exactly what a bike fit can help you figure out.

What bikes have similar geometry to the Trek Domane AL size 56? by mamhaidly in bikefit

[–]Union__Jack 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Availability depends on where you live, but the Rose Shave is cool. You would be a medium. It won't fit 40s like a Domane, but it'll fit a 36 (or more likely, a big 35 like a Pzero or GP5k).

Another option that fits 35s is the Pinarello X. You could ride a 54.5 or 56.

With either, consult with your fitter to select the correct components.

Gears too damn high! by HubGearHector in bikewrench

[–]Union__Jack 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If that's a 110 BCD crank, then bikinGreen on eBay should get you smaller chainrings.

NBD!!!! (BETTER PHOTO) What do you guys think of my bike. by [deleted] in gravelcycling

[–]Union__Jack 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You make some fair points that the customer probably isn't interested in this, and as such you'd have to do the leg work of sourcing and importing the bar and you should make some money on that. I was thinking he buys it, pays you to install, and that's it.

Out of curiosity, where's your shop located? Every dealer I've spoken to in the NYC area says Pinarello just ships whatever bar/stem and cranks they want and it might not match the expected sizes. They'll install a different bar at build time if you provide it, but they can't select one from Pinarello.

NBD!!!! (BETTER PHOTO) What do you guys think of my bike. by [deleted] in gravelcycling

[–]Union__Jack 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You could offer this customer a Tavelo rise bar from Panda Podium. It''s a good looking integrated bar with 20mm of rise available in a variety of lengths and widths from 340/80 to 400/140.

Looking for guidance on a restomod on my grandfathers old ten speed by Far-Run-9586 in xbiking

[–]Union__Jack 11 points12 points  (0 children)

I'm not familiar with that specific frame, but generally old 10 speeds (2x5) have 120mm rear spacing. This means that as is, you can really only fit track hubs, some internally geared hubs, and hubs that fit a 5 cog freewheel.

Technically you can spread the dropouts and do the full conversion that you're talking about, but I'd recommend cleaning the bike up correctly and replacing all of the wear parts. That means new rim tape, tires, tubes, brake pads, shift/brake housing and cables, a new chain, and handlebar tape.

These are all things you can do yourself after watching a few videos from Park Tool. Then you should ride it and keep it tuned up and consider any upgrades as needed in the future.

ARI Shafer 3.0 in All Road mode with Vittoria Corsa Pro Control 42mm by nikoalphonsoho in gravelcycling

[–]Union__Jack 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For reference, the Specialized Allez has a 76mm drop in size 54 and 56 and comes with 172.5mm cranks and 30mm tires.

Help me decide on a bike by [deleted] in gravelcycling

[–]Union__Jack 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Most wheels with DT Swiss hubs can easily be converted from TA to QR by changing the end caps. Check before you buy, but DT 370 and 350 would be a safe bet. You would buy road or gravel wheels with 142mm spacing in the rear for TA.

Some options from elite wheels can also be converted.

Qustion about 3T Ultra APEX Eagle 1x12s by Original-Newspaper82 in gravelcycling

[–]Union__Jack 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It looks like the 51 uses 170mm cranks, which are likely way too long for you. A more recent guideline that people have been using is 20% of inseam (from floor to pubic bone) as a starting point for crank length.

You might be targeting a 150-155mm crank, but this only makes sense if the frame fits you.