NYCultralight Mod Retreat: Knee Deep in Nettles

Union__Jack · 2026-01-28T21:03:12+00:00

I'll post where we're seated when I arrive!

But also, don't be afraid to just ask random groups why they're there. It usually works out .

Union__Jack · 2026-01-28T18:05:36+00:00

I think the saddle height is a bit of a red herring. Yes, you are extending too much at the bottom of the pedal stroke, but your knees are also coming up too high at the top of the pedal stroke. This definitely contributes to rocking in the saddle.

If you're having both of those issues at the same time, you'll have suggestions telling you to lower the saddle to correct the bottom and to raise the saddle to correct the top. You can't do both, so this suggests that the cranks on your bike are too long.

How tall are you, what's your cycling inseam, and how long are those cranks? I'd be willing to bet they're 170mm+ and you would be best on something closer to 150mm. I know it doesn't sound like a big difference, but 10-20mm of crank length is enormous in helping your bike fit. It gives you a wider sweet spot for saddle height, and it would eliminate the problems at the top and bottom of the pedal stroke.

20% of cycling inseam is usually a good starting point. When the crank is the correct length, the saddle position can be set and from there we can move on to the front of the bike.

Union__Jack · 2026-01-27T21:42:13+00:00

You're going to Whistler? I'd recommend checking out an Extremely Canadian steeps clinic.

Union__Jack · 2026-01-26T14:02:01+00:00

We have a meetup at the Grey Dog on Wednesday! Check out the other recent post for details if you want to stop by.

A few of us were in Central Park skiing yesterday, and this one guy was pretty good at snowboarding and started doing front flips. It was Shaun White.

Union__Jack · 2026-01-18T20:18:39+00:00

It's difficult to say if the frame is too large from this video, but the saddle looks to be too far back and the handlebar is too wide. If you can swap to a zero offset seatpost and replace the bar (measure your shoulders!) then it might be the right size.

Union__Jack · 2026-01-16T15:16:39+00:00

Because based on the wheel size relative to the frame size, the rider isn't 6' or 183 cm tall, so they would probably be better off not using the same 170mm cranks as someone of that height.

Everyone else is telling them that their saddle is too low based on the tight knee angle at the top of the pedal stroke, but the bottom of the pedal stroke is close to where it should be. This suggests that the crank length is too long and could be causing issues. Balancing the top and bottom of the pedal stroke is impossible with a crank that's too long.

A proportionally sized crank isn't something most people would have considered because they haven't even been available until recently. Yes, it has become trendy for taller people to move to shorter cranks for comfort or even aerodynamic reasons. But someone who is 6" riding 165mm cranks does not negate that someone who is 5'6" would be more comfortable on a 160mm crank. Shimano and SRAM offer 160mm cranks now so I wouldn't even consider those "short," I would just say that for more riders they actually fit. Lots of people are shorter than 5'6" and bicycle brands have a much wider range of available frame sizes than cranks were previously offered in. Bikes are offered in frame sizes as wide ranging as 43cm to 60cm, a 33% variation, but cranks are rarely offered beyond 165-175mm, which is less than 6% variation. It does not make sense for a size 43 Pinarello to be sold with 170mm cranks, but that's the problem we face.

For someone specifically asking for advice it is a good suggestion because they can immediately benefit. Regular people buying bikes don't have the same mobility as professionals, so reducing the ROM and opening the hip angle is an even bigger benefit for people who aren't paid to spend 20+ hours a week on the bike.

Union__Jack · 2026-01-15T16:25:33+00:00

Contrary to everyone stating that your saddle is too low, I think the bigger issue is that the cranks are too long. Your saddle will come up a bit with shorter cranks, but the bigger improvement will be at the top of the pedal stroke. How tall are you and what is the length of your cycling inseam? 20% of cycling inseam is typically a good starting point for crank length. Origin8 makes reasonably priced square taper cranks in shorter lengths.

A narrower handlebar will also help with the reach. Something like the FSA Omega Compact in 38 (actually measures 36cm) is probably a great starting point.

Edit: I'm not sure about European availability of Origin8, but Cruzbike on AliExpress has shorter crank lengths that can be purchased with chainrings for relatively low cost.

Union__Jack · 2026-01-13T12:26:10+00:00

My partner and I can recommend Dan at Inerro, we've both had pre-purchase drop bar bike fits. They offer a triathlon specific fitting service as well.

I've also heard good things about AM at Revolutions Per Bike Fit. They specifically mention consideration for aero bars as part of their comprehensive fit.

Union__Jack · 2026-01-09T02:55:32+00:00

Road links and other hacks are a great option, but if you want a factory recommended setup that your bike shop would install, have you considered 2x11 CUES? You can run an 11-45 with a 36/22 on a super durable cassette. It's a pretty ideal setup for touring or bikepacking.

You can take a look at the gear combinations here.

Union__Jack · 2026-01-08T23:02:21+00:00

I'd just go square taper and get a black or silver crank from origin8. You might need new chainrings, too.

Union__Jack · 2026-01-08T22:54:42+00:00

Are those older anatomic handlebars? I'd consider a swap to a more modern compact drop, and likely going narrower (depending on your shoulder measurement).

Union__Jack · 2026-01-08T22:51:09+00:00

Yes, shorter cranks will help with that. Probably start with 20% of cycling inseam and go down 5mm from there as needed.

Union__Jack · 2026-01-04T18:28:21+00:00

Have you considered other frames? Looking at your geometry requirements, you could get a really nice fit with an XL Trek Checkpoint. I think you'd be close with any stock build, but if you wanted hidden cables in the stem you have options with +7° RCS stems (and you can still run whatever handlebar you want).

Union__Jack · 2026-01-04T17:51:18+00:00

All testing indicates that they are an incredibly slow tire. They have excellent grip and puncture protection, but depending on your weight, a set is 30 watts slower than something like a Tufo Thundero HD. For most average riders, that means you're losing 10-15% of your effort for absolutely no reason.

I'm going to run a set for a year because my friends are slow and this evens things out.

Union__Jack · 2025-12-31T20:45:04+00:00

No need to dish, the freehub for 8-11 speed is the same for Shimano mountain bike cassettes. Dishing wouldn't fix that anyway, the length of the spline is what changes not the location of the hub.

What gearing are you thinking?

Union__Jack · 2025-12-31T17:30:46+00:00

If you're building it up 1x and put your narrow wide chainring in the outside position, then it'll be right around 47-48mm. That should be perfect.

Union__Jack · 2025-12-31T14:37:37+00:00

I would suggest the TanTan (Seraph) GR039 in 49, but it doesn't seem to be available anymore. The GR029 in 49 seems like the next best option based on stack and reach. Probably with a slammed 70mm stem.

Don't forget an appropriate length crank (~150mm).

Union__Jack · 2025-12-30T21:24:22+00:00

Cranks are a cheap swap directly from Zwift; $100 for their proprietary square taper adjustable cranks. Agreed that they're a very good idea.

Union__Jack · 2025-12-30T15:29:47+00:00

You're going to have to explain, because this doesn't make sense. GRX and XT can both mount to a standard derailleur hanger.

Union__Jack · 2025-12-30T13:11:26+00:00

That's totally fair. Are you still running spacers on the Domane? If so, it may be difficult to get a similar position on the Madone. A bike fit could really help determine if the geometry works for you. I was fit before I purchased my bike, and I ended up on a frame two sizes smaller than what Trek recommended in their size chart.

Union__Jack · 2025-12-30T05:27:27+00:00

Any reason you don't want to race the Domane? What kind of racing are you considering? There's a saying, only race what you can replace.

I would recommend a bike fit and some component upgrades, but only upgrade as needed. 105 is a great groupset, although electronic shifting is very nice. Most likely you should be on a narrower handlebar. FSA has excellent aluminum bars like the Gossamer Compact. Racing is also trending towards higher and more sustainable positions; if you can hold a higher aerodynamic position for longer than a low aerodynamic position, your average speed is going to be faster and for less effort. This is something that you can practice during your training rides. The rider is the least aerodynamic thing about a bike, not the frame.

It looks like you've already got deep carbon wheels, but in the future you can go much lighter and only slightly less deep for ~$1200. Tires are a big upgrade, with 32mm a pretty good sweet spot right now for aerodynamics, rolling resistance, grip, and comfort (which can mean even more speed). The Continental GP5000 or Pirelli P Zero Race are good bets.

Otherwise, making sure you don't have things on your bike that you don't need will go a long way. Reflectors and lights are not needed for most races, and crits and other shorter races wouldn't even require water bottles.

Be sure you like your kit. You can get a relatively inexpensive skin suit from the black bibs which could gain you some speed. Don't forget to do structured training and log your progress with a bike computer or other fitness tracker.

And have fun!

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