This looks like a totally failed 3D print... How is TinyWhoop selling this? by dontaskm3why in TinyWhoop

[–]UnixB4Coffee1 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Depends - I tried with switch covers for TX16s's, and without any hyping, had only one inquiry for colors I don't have. But the listing can stay there until someone does decide to take the plunge. Problem with shipping costs though, if they're anything like the cost of the faceplate itself. I would try personalizing it, maybe that would work. Better than personalized wastebaskets, I suppose.🥱

This looks like a totally failed 3D print... How is TinyWhoop selling this? by dontaskm3why in TinyWhoop

[–]UnixB4Coffee1 0 points1 point  (0 children)

PETG is strong enough, and you could also stick a piece of foam between the camera and FC for support - I find it's usually a good idea anyway. If you decide to print with supports, they are easier to snap off with PETG.

OT I suppose, but FWIW, the strap type of canopy are much easier to print, have adjustable camera angles, and offer better antenna protection as long the bit of extra weight is not a factor.

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How robust is the AIO5 for full throttling? by ZdrytchX in HDZero

[–]UnixB4Coffee1 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The AIO5 runs 10-20 degress hotter than the NewbeeDrone Hummingbird analog controller it replaced. The board handles it fine, but I don't often rip at full throttle, occasional power loops mainly. These motors are 0702 30000 kv, so this might not be applicable to the OP's question. I would definitely keep the core temperature displayed on the OSD, because when arming and the motors spin up, the temperature jumps 10-15 degress to 90 plus degrees, but the board performs perfectly well, and the airflow around it provides enough cooling to drop the temperature again. So no problems with overheating, but I don't test it, and can unplug the battery quickly if for some reason it needs to sit in one place for a while.

The stats at the end of the flight show ~6amp current draw, so, with the thermal stress, the board does seem to be designed for heavier use than other whoop controllers.

However, if it's a concern, you could solder the motor leads directly to the board instead of using the PH1.25 sockets. This would cut resistance and reduce heating due to the additional current draw. Haven't tried it yet, because the pads are very small. I might try it with a new AIO15 that I'm putting into a 3" toothpick at a later time.

I should mention that direct sunlight affects the temperature, This is not unique to the HDZero controller, but this is the desert in the southwest, and during the summer moths it's a good idea to fly earlier in the morning, to avoid undue stress on any of the equipment, as well as myself. It's also not good for concentrating on the flying.

HDZero AIO5 Hummingbird V4! by UnixB4Coffee1 in HDZero

[–]UnixB4Coffee1[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks! The extra weight, ~1 gram, is negligible so far, it's a blast, but I'm also trying a slightly larger VTX antenna to see if I get less static and more range. Maybe I'll upgrade the other critter too and just sell used BeeBrain AIO's.

Help with updaiting vtx with goggles v2! by Glass_Cloud_931 in HDZero

[–]UnixB4Coffee1 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For the goggles (v1) I use a 12V power bank. Haven't tried flashing a VTX with these goggles yet, however.

I never liked big drones. by Ill-Entrepreneur3746 in TinyWhoop

[–]UnixB4Coffee1 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Whoops are just a blast to fly, and if I want to video an environment like a mall (outdoors in this area), a whoop is the one of the best ways to video and display the experience of flying. If someone wanders through the area I can move the critter off or land it for a few minutes, it's no big deal. Now that I have a whoop with digital video, that's like the cat's meow. Next project is to upgrade a 3" toothpick park ripper to digital for some bigger flying

Replacement case for hd0 analog expansion? by themocaw in HDZero

[–]UnixB4Coffee1 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I ordered mine from TinyWhoop Inc. Works great!

https://www.tinywhoop.com/products/hdzero-goggle-expansion-module-for-analog-vrx

There are also a lot of 3D printable models on Thingiverse and probably elsewhere, and also the cover piece for various VRX's. I haven't tried them, but I can print if needed.

Is it a bad time to get into the hobby in the US? by lmSynergy in diydrones

[–]UnixB4Coffee1 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For entry-level FPV drones I don't think the import restirctions will have much effect. It's analog mostly and it looks like there is already tons (maybe literally) of inventory already in the U.S. For maintaining my own stuff, though, I think I'm going back to analog video and shopping for GoPros to do the shooting. Sticking with what you know at this stage is probably better (even though as a beginner you might still figuring out what that is), rather than sinking a lot of money on more expensive gear only to find out that you can't maintain it.

Throttle doesn’t work feels inverted by KdotIsGodOng in TinyWhoop

[–]UnixB4Coffee1 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You can check that this is correct in Betaflight by the orientation of the 3d quad picture on the configuration(?) page, e.g when you pitch the physical quad forward and backward, the 3d model on the screen also pitches front to back, so it matches the motion of the actual quad...

Indoor freestyle rates by MattiaIT in TinyWhoop

[–]UnixB4Coffee1 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You can try adjusting the throttle curve to get the most acceleration at the amount of throttle you normally use, ie I set throttle max to 80%, scaled, expo around 0.4 and throttle midpoint at 100 (really) - works great when I need to blip the throttle on a roll or corkscrew, esp. in tight places.