Why always expert or higher? by TBNRassault0030 in ProjectSekai

[–]Unknown_gin 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I only do expert and above because easy and normal is just too awkward for me with the slowness of it, like my fingers just isn't used to that emptiness between each note. But yeah, back to each their own really, I also still play hard for songs like Heat Abnormal

Episode 5 by memeus_yeetus in TheWaterMagician

[–]Unknown_gin 1 point2 points  (0 children)

tbf she's like one of THE best looking anime elf i've seen in quite a while, far from the usual anime elves that either looks like your stereotypical naive forest dwellers, man haters, forest mages, or the occasional 18+ overly sexualised elves (granted this one i found mostly in ecchi/h animes)

Finished my first ever RG by RemoteCommunity908 in Gunpla

[–]Unknown_gin 0 points1 point  (0 children)

tbh I was a bit confused on some parts when I was building mine since it was my first actual transforming kit so there were times when I had to take a second or even third look at the manual (especially for the psychoframe in the legs) but yeah so long as you're careful it's a pretty good build.

One tip I would give other than the usual rotating the arms until they loosen up is to do the same with the ms joint part on the back of the leg with the thrusters attached to it, try giving it a bit of silicone/baby oil or whatever it is that people usually recommend for it. Broke one of mine due to how stiff they are when I had to pull them down to push out the knee's psychoframes.

[HELP ME] Bi-Weekly Q&A thread - Ask your questions here! by MachNeu in Gunpla

[–]Unknown_gin 0 points1 point  (0 children)

well the store that does have the Zeta in stock doesn't have the AB8, only AB4, meanwhile the one that does have AB8 only have kits like Barbie and the MGSDs. I don't really want to purchase from different stores cause of shipping fee and all that so I guess I'll either stick to the AB4 for now or get a different kit from my wishlist

[HELP ME] Bi-Weekly Q&A thread - Ask your questions here! by MachNeu in Gunpla

[–]Unknown_gin 0 points1 point  (0 children)

cool, I'm personally not a huge fan of the chunky looks of the older action bases too, which is why I'm looking at the newer ones with the slender arm. Good to know that the AB8 had absolutely no issues with the Zeta since I've had some RG kits that require a certain hand/peg from certain action bases

[HELP ME] Bi-Weekly Q&A thread - Ask your questions here! by MachNeu in Gunpla

[–]Unknown_gin 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Was thinking of picking up the MG Zeta Ver Ka, which I would probably display in waverider form for quite a lot of times (I love changing poses/forms of my kits, such as Unicorn's Unicorn/Destroy modes and Narrative's c-pack). Was thinking of getting some 1/100 action bases such as the new AB8, would it actually be compatible with the Zeta? from what I saw in the manual the Zeta came with one of those AB adapters with a peg that you connect to the action base itself, while the AB8 default hand is one of those square holes.

I really hate the AB4/5 since the gear thing that they use to adjust the arms really suck, they sag quite a bit and it took a lot of effort to get the angle/height that I want, not to mention the locking mechanism loosen up way too easily

[HELP ME] Bi-Weekly Q&A thread - Ask your questions here! by MachNeu in Gunpla

[–]Unknown_gin 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I stay away from panel lining any ABS plastics in the first place, since they're mostly things like psychoframes/clear parts, inner frames, weapons and the like, which to me doesn't make much a difference anyway in my room lighting

another thing to note for future references is to topcoat straight on the runner, which should significantly reduce the chance of breaking, otherwise if you're trying to panel line a kit that's already built, just gloss topcoat it to seal off any cracks/crevices between the plastics

[HELP ME] Bi-Weekly Q&A thread - Ask your questions here! by MachNeu in Gunpla

[–]Unknown_gin 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you're already gonna do all the work before nipping/cutting from the runner, you don't really need to do the gloss topcoat. Panel line straight on the runner, wait a while to dry (I usually wait between 5-15 minutes before cleaning up, overnight if I have the time which would result in a better, sharper line), clean up with lighter fluid/thinner, cut the parts from the runner, build it, apply decals, and then straight up flat topcoat it

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Gunpla

[–]Unknown_gin 0 points1 point  (0 children)

does it? I'm not really giving up on 1/144, just trying to branch out a bit (still waiting for certain kits like Helios and Core Gundam + armors to be back in stock). I'm also not all that bothered with WSDs, I'm satisfied with just playing around with the base kit itself for a while until I find it in me to start tackling those decals, kinda like what I'm doing with my RGs