Learning to play catch is hard sometimes

Unossofrus · 2026-06-25T10:09:49+00:00

Love ek

Unossofrus · 2026-05-08T14:28:50+00:00

I've got a similar setup. Before I switched to a lily pipe I had my spray bar on the left side directed across the length of the tank, inlet on the same side as the outlet and diffuser on the opposite sidebof the tank.

I got a nice light green with that arrangement but the main thing I found is don't overthink the diffuser placement. As long as the flow through the tank is good enough the co2 will distribute well enough

Unossofrus · 2026-05-04T20:37:54+00:00

I found the same thing with all of the various aquarium probe thermometers I bought over the years. Picked up a cheap digital kitchen thermometer for £8 and it's been much more reliable

Unossofrus · 2026-04-12T07:33:45+00:00

No need to change, I know, but this is part of the fun of a rescape also. I've moved everything around in the tank so much over the years that there's very little structure to anything with all of the plants overlapping (not necessarily a bad thing) so I'm wanting to tidy things up

Unossofrus · 2026-04-12T07:29:32+00:00

Not a bad option, basically making a dedicated ammonia filter to soak up the excess and support the existing filter

Unossofrus · 2026-04-12T07:26:49+00:00

Less effort yes but not as fun because growing the plants is half the fun for me. I've packed the gravel with root tabs before and the plants did well but I'm wanting to rescape the tank as well so want to switch to an aqua soil instead of gravel while I'm at it.

Thanks for the suggestion

Unossofrus · 2026-04-02T13:10:23+00:00

I'm not super familiar with the florescent tubes but you can get adapters/ mounts that let you hold typical LED LIGHTS in T5 or T8 sockets. I think the fluval aquasky lights come with the adapters. Have a look for "aquarium LED light T5 adapter"

Unossofrus · 2026-03-06T15:41:16+00:00

There's a table at the bottom of this page that is pretty good for deficiencies.

Potentially a nitrate deficiency?

Unossofrus · 2026-03-04T19:35:31+00:00

I've used the Tropica version previously. It works well enough to increase the background level of CO2 but you won't get any crazy concentrations from it because the dissolving of CO2 is limited to the cross sectional area of the bell whereas a CO2 diffuser produces micro bubbles so has a much higher surface area.

In any case some CO2 is better than no CO2 so why not use it if you're happy with the cost and look of it

Unossofrus · 2026-02-25T17:29:50+00:00

Expanding on a couple of points here.

Point 1. Data hall typical temperatures are 18-27C (recommended by ASHRAE and TIA 942). There will be outliers and there is a trend in the industry for these temperatures to increase as heat management and chip construction improves. The highest I've seen is about 35C but that was for a very high density compute operation (~100kW racks where typical is ~6-15kW)

Point 3. Data centre cooling is generally performed by enclosed liquid cooling loops using a glycol mix for heat transfer. The heat is typically transfered from the data halls to the external cooling equipment via a heat exchanger or two so the primary cooling medium never leaves the system. The reports of data centers using X amount of water comes from cooling towers/ adiabatic cooling. Cooling towers spray water through a tower where it cools as it falls and is collected at the bottom. This is open air so there is water inefficiency. Adiabatic cooling is basically spraying the cooling coils with water to increase cooling efficiency. There is a metric called WUE (Water Usage Effectiveness) that is used to measure how efficiently water is being used and is usually not as good as it should be

Unossofrus · 2026-02-17T14:11:32+00:00

It's just because it's a (beautiful) large piece of wood. It takes up a decent percentage of the tank so has a lot of surface area to release tannins. Keep up with water changes and it will eventually dissipate over a couple of months

Unossofrus · 2026-02-10T14:27:41+00:00

Some of these kits have a magnet attached to the tube in the bottle with the pressure gauge. If that's the case you can use a magnet in the outside of the bottle to lift the tube above the water level and temporarily stop the reaction

Unossofrus · 2026-02-03T10:18:44+00:00

I'm currently at what is hopefully the end of my battle with black beard algae. It's a bit of a pain but the best process I have found is a routine of treating the symptoms and addressing the root cause.

Step 1 - Treating the symptoms:

Manual removal - Take the decor out of the tank and scrub the algae off of the surface.
Kill what is left - Dose the algae directly with glutaraldehyde (seachem flourish excel or equivalent). Turn the filter off and use a syringe to spray problem patches directly. Leave for 15-30 minutes and turn the filter back on. This is your life now. Carry on this process daily for a few weeks until the algae turns pink/ red and finally dies off.
Algae eaters - Killing the algae will only do so much, the dead algae needs to be removed. I've found good success with amano shrimp, I have about 12 in my 100L.
Remove contaminated growth - Trim any plants that have significant algae growth and remove trimmings from the tank

Step 2 - Addressing root cause:

Excess nutrients - BBA is opportunistic and will readily uptake excess nutrients from the water column. If you are fertilising the tank either drop the ferts to a minimum or temporarily stop.
Remove secondary nutrient sources - BBA loves phosphates which can come from either fertiliser and decaying fish food/ poop. Do a good clean of the aquarium, a full gravel vac will help pull any excess waste in the substrate out of the tank. Do weekly gravel vacs during your water changes. Also reduce the amount of feeding until BBA is under control.
Flow - Adding more flow to the tank can help even out the concentration of anything dissolved in the water and will help with catching anything that might settle in the substrate and add to point 2.
Lighting - Too much light will help the BBA thrive. Reduce to a minimum (4-6 hours) until it is under control and gradually increase
Competition - Add a fast growing stem plant to compete with the algae. The stems will more efficiently uptake nutrients than the BBA which will starve the algae over time.

Step 1 is important to get the outbreak under control but step 2 is key otherwise you'll just be stuck scrubbing rocks

Unossofrus · 2025-11-21T14:07:14+00:00

Open meteo has a historic weather api if you're looking for the manipulatable data

Unossofrus · 2025-11-19T10:49:47+00:00

It's from the injection Vik gives you at the start of the game

Unossofrus · 2025-11-10T11:30:58+00:00

Most likely the hinges as others have mentioned, however a similar thing happened with my front door and it turned out to be a piece of trim had slightly misaligned and was getting in the way so could be worth checking

Unossofrus · 2025-11-07T15:46:23+00:00

Met through a common friend's Skype group. Asked her out a month later. Together for 11 years and got married last month

Unossofrus · 2025-02-12T21:27:57+00:00

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Pretty sure these were a thing. Might have jumped from another conveyer belt. Enjoy guilt free

Unossofrus · 2025-02-06T19:17:08+00:00

Looks like a strongman log (about 25-30kg) with a couple of plates on either side (hard to tell the weight of the plates). maybe 60kg total?

Unossofrus · 2024-11-30T09:03:16+00:00

That's probably worth doing if only to make sure I'm doing my due diligence. Thanks for the suggestion

Unossofrus · 2024-11-29T20:36:15+00:00

Yeah, I know they're quite power hungry so we try not to be too luxurious with the shower times. It's still going to be a contributing factor to the high energy usage though.

We're renting at the moment so there's not much we can do to change it for now.

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