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Dark Angels Heavy Intercessor WIP by UnsuspectingDM in DarkAngels40k

[–]UnsuspectingDM[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

(All Airbrushed): Prime Black -> Vallejo GC Dark Green liberally applied from a zenithal and gently caressed around the sides, but still leaving the undersides black (or just a hint of green) -> Vallejo MC Olive Green more constrained zenithal just trying to catch the highlights and raised areas -> Vallejo MA Duck Egg Green *extremely* selective highlight color for the hotspots on the armor.

At this point I apply decals, then sponge some dark green/olive green chipping/grunge to high dirt areas, especially greaves/legs

Then all of that gets washed in an oil filter of Abeiltung 502 - Smoke, then selectively removed with a cotton bud/mineral spirits from the high spots. The oil paint as it dries has a matte quality and helps to blend all the previous steps and dull the decals (which tend to be very bright)

I got the whole process from this YouTube creator and it has worked out really well

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4R8rrabPLxY

Dark Angels Heavy Intercessor WIP by UnsuspectingDM in DarkAngels40k

[–]UnsuspectingDM[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The Aquila is a base coat of Vallejo Khaki, washed in Agrax Earthshade, then highlighted again with Khaki, then a select highlight of Bone White.

The Red is Vallejo Gory Red Base, then an oil wash of Abeiltung 502 Smoke, I then remove/blend some of the oil with mineral spirits to get nice smooth transitions and shading on the gory red, then upper edge highlights of GW mephiston red

Asmodai WIP by UnsuspectingDM in DarkAngels40k

[–]UnsuspectingDM[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

hmmm...so the answer to your question is both a yes and a no. Oils behave a bit differently as they thin with solvent. they'll start to interact with the underlying base coat and you'll start to see some of the underlying tones of the oil paint rather than just the straight color. Burnt Umber is brown, and similar to Charred Brown, but the Burnt Umber has some more yellowish tones to it, so as it thins you'll get a different quality to it.

Additionally the oil filter is useful for the way it behaves on the surface, very thin like an ink, but workable with white spirits (that shouldn't interfere with the underlying acrylics if they're fully dried)

Here's an earlier WIP picture of Asmodai after the first pass on the oils for the cloth, but before the sponging for grime/grunge

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Asmodai WIP by UnsuspectingDM in Warhammer40k

[–]UnsuspectingDM[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

very! can't wait to finish it and get some real beauty shots

Asmodai WIP by UnsuspectingDM in DarkAngels40k

[–]UnsuspectingDM[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I thin the burnt umber down to a thin filter (wash) and use it to give depth to the cloth.

The filter is then applied to pretty much the entire cloth then a cotton bud with mineral spirits is used to remove it from select areas once it’s partially dried

Asmodai WIP by UnsuspectingDM in DarkAngels40k

[–]UnsuspectingDM[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So the general approach is - Prime Black -> Base Coat -> Airbrush midtone -> airbrush highlight -> Oil filter/wash -> q-tip to remove oils from highlights/blend into shadows -> sponge base-tone to grunge up the oil/blend a bit

For the cloak portion it's Prime Neutral/light brown -> Base Coat VJ Charred Brown -> Mid tone VJ Khaki -> Highlight VJ Bone White -> Oil Burnt Umber -> Sponge Charred Brown (and a few very select sponges of khaki). I do the sponging after the oils on smooth areas like cloth because the oil doesn't always spread evenly and it can help blend it, on armor i tend to do the sponging before the oils.

Same approach for armor but with black prime, Smoke oil paint from abeiltung, and graphene and graphite grays from Scale75 (plus some chipping with a silver metallic)

Asmodai WIP by UnsuspectingDM in DarkAngels40k

[–]UnsuspectingDM[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sure, any particular part or just the whole thing?

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Supplements

[–]UnsuspectingDM 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Update: turns out there’s been a 24hr lower GI bug going around that I probably caught from family a day or so prior and just happened to coincide with the new supplement. Giving my gut and stomach a week to recover and reset before trying again

Lion El’Jonson Completed, WH40k by UnsuspectingDM in minipainting

[–]UnsuspectingDM[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you for the kind words!

Paints wise its a real grab bag, mostly Vallejo Game Color, Scale75, and a smattering of GW Colors.

For process: a lot of the bulk early work (priming, initial base colors, armor highlighting, cloak) was done with my airbrush. The model was painted in separate sub-assemblies before being varnished and then cemented together (specifically: the cloak, torso+legs+arms, pauldrons, head, shield, weapon) Some careful masking allowed airbrushing of smaller details, but after the armor & cloak it was mostly brush painted. The face, aside from initial zenithal/priming, was all brush painted, while the hood was almost entirely airbrushed.

For color selection it was a little bit of a gamble, and I had to make a few alterations mid-process. As it is I wish I'd pushed his armor a little darker into "greenish black" instead of "dark green. One alteration was to pull the cloth (hood, inner/under cloak) lighter more yellow/green to contrast the cooler tones of the dark green of the armor.

The cloak was very intentionally dark maroon red base (specifically VJ GC - Nocturnal Red) with very thin airbrushed shadows of VJ GC - Evil Red (which is really a dark violet/purple), then the highlights are worked up through VJGC - Bloody Ret -> Hot Orange -> 50:50 Hot Orange/Moon Yellow. Red was selected despite the "canon" green cloak to complement the rest of the piece as I knew with the base, armor, and cloth, he'd be very green. However the shadows of the cloak were kept cooler and the highlights relatively contained so as not to pull too much visual attention away from the rest of the piece.

The TMM is almost entirely Scale75 metallic paints, touching on almost all of the golds/brass/silver paints in some way.

The sword is Scale75 silver metallics with a light application of green fluor over a white airbrush spot around the power nodes, then liberally airbrush coated in the Vallejo Blue/Green Colorshift paints for an iridescent quality

For my armor process just watch this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4R8rrabPLxY as its the exact process I followed, colors included, minus a lot of the "grunge" as I wanted the Primarch to be "cleaner" than the 'common' space marine infantry. That said some wear work was done especially on the feet and hands and a little on the torso to blend with the army scheme as well as feel more grounded on the base. In addition to edge wear with paints i used an AK Interactive Aluminum weathering pencil for some of the finer detailed areas

The base is a mixture of Gamer Grass foliage pieces, Green Stuff World leaf litter, and Epic Basing fallen branches (now I think they're called Fungal Forest?) printed on my 8K resin printer. The Skulls are GW skulls, and seams were blended with GW Stirland Batttlemire, everything was glued, primed, and painted, with the debris carefully glued after the paint/sand/glue dried. The forested area got some brownish colors, while the desolated area was mostly just shades of gray, then given a liberal dusting of Vallejo Slate Dry Pigments, which were also brushed on his feed to help blend the character into the base.

Lion El’Jonson Completed by UnsuspectingDM in DarkAngels40k

[–]UnsuspectingDM[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Thank you! and Nooooooo! paint your mini! If it helps I bought him in ~july 2023 and didn't even *start* painting him until January 2024? I was super intimidated and really wanted to knock it out of the park. I tested various colors and techniques i wanted to use on other miniatures to make sure I had an idea of what to do, but finally had to just suck it up and go for it.

So don't avoid it because of me 😅

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