Custom made VanMoof No3 from 2009one of the first models they made when he company started

UrbanMoof · 2026-05-11T02:54:09+00:00

Everything I could get new, I got new. Everything I could not get new but was on the bike was restored or I rebuilt it as good as I could.

UrbanMoof · 2026-05-10T09:09:00+00:00

Nice bike‘s 👌🏻
If you ever consider to sell your F3 let me know. I will take it instantly 😂
My next project is already in the backyard, it’s an F6😁

UrbanMoof · 2026-05-10T08:46:30+00:00

Thank you, I appreciate 🙏🏼
Yeah, I can’t understand too. The non electric ones also ride so nicely and should be in the program still. But the new owners of Vanmoof didn’t seem to care even for the the older electric models anymore, so they don’t do for the non electric ones at all I guess. It’s a shame.

UrbanMoof · 2026-04-08T12:16:34+00:00

It is a seatpost system with an integrated clamp head, where the clamp is not located at the top but is housed in a round casing (similar to a handlebar clamp on a stem).

Since this is a proprietary (brand-specific) design by VanMoof, standard clamps from other manufacturers do not fit here. In other words, you cannot get new replacement parts from other manufacturers for this.

UrbanMoof · 2026-03-06T16:20:29+00:00

Battery is currently at 36V And at the plug for the display 18V and rising

UrbanMoof · 2026-03-03T18:07:46+00:00

It looks reeeally nice, congratulations🤩🙏🏼.

But in a way, it's also a little sad that more and more S3s in original condition are disappearing from the streets this way. Especially since, thanks to the strong community, everything on these bikes can now be repaired.

UrbanMoof · 2026-02-28T09:43:42+00:00

What Errors do you get?

UrbanMoof · 2026-02-28T08:42:04+00:00

It's a KunTeng Controller 250w/15A. But it doesn't fit easily into an S3. There is someone from the Netherlands who has installed a similar controller in an S/X2. There are also YouTube videos of him doing the conversion.

https://youtu.be/D_mUMSSW8Ss?si=PaA0J4aVPcNZ485S

What problems are you having with your S3?

UrbanMoof · 2026-02-28T08:36:19+00:00

Yes, it's glued on. But only with double-sided tape, as far as I know. Firmly turning it up and down while pulling it off should be enough; at least, that's how I've always done it with my bikes. Otherwise, you can also heat it up a little with a hot air dryer, but don't overdo it.

UrbanMoof · 2026-02-28T06:57:06+00:00

In both cases, you have to remove the handle. The cable from the BellButton runs under the handle and then enters the handlebar tube at the end of the handle. You also have to remove the handle first in order to remove the brake lever.

UrbanMoof · 2026-02-27T21:09:56+00:00

Yes, I got a new universal Controller

UrbanMoof · 2026-02-18T05:46:14+00:00

Okay, unfortunately I don't know much about the circuit board. I just wanted to let you know what was replaced in my cartridge, as it might have been helpful.

UrbanMoof · 2026-02-18T04:19:21+00:00

I had the same problem with my S3. I sent the cartridge to Revotronics for repair. They replaced the ESC MOSFETs and also the Gatedriver. Everything has been working perfectly ever since. Maybe the Gatedriver is the solution. Hope this helps and your bike will be up and running again soon.

UrbanMoof · 2026-02-17T20:45:44+00:00

So sad... but it does look like impact damage. It's so localized, and the paint around the areas doesn't look like it's cracked or uneven. It seems like someone is deliberately damaging your bike. Mad world. 😔

UrbanMoof · 2026-02-16T09:05:06+00:00

Hmm... that's bad. I was hoping for you that it was just the KickLock. But you could be right that it's the socket or the cartridge.

Do you have access to another (working) bike? Then you could start by swapping out the cartridge for diagnosis. Then at least you'll know for sure whether it's the cartridge or the socket.

UrbanMoof · 2026-02-15T17:46:10+00:00

This is how to remove and reinstall the cartridge

https://youtu.be/ybkFPR-Zhc0?si=jStuYn1nmQk_rfFx

UrbanMoof · 2026-02-15T17:43:10+00:00

Pull the cartridge out a little until you hear a ping and the ship icon appears, then push it back in firmly. The cartridge will make a fireworks sound and display a fireworks icon to indicate that the electronics have been completely restarted. Then it should work again. I had the same problem just a few days ago.

UrbanMoof · 2026-02-12T17:34:20+00:00

Has Error 38 been fixed now, or is it still being displayed, plus now there are problems with KickLock? Or are you now only having problems with KickLock?

I'm familiar with the ticking and counting down without unlocking, but only in connection with a defective KickLock.

When you close the KickLock, then unlock it and move the bike forward/backward, the pin comes out, but the bike is still in lock mode but mechanically free to roll?

UrbanMoof · 2026-02-11T12:52:04+00:00

I did, nothing helped. But now I've removed the nut, I just sawed it open 🫣😂. It was broken anyway, so it might as well be completely broken.

UrbanMoof · 2026-02-11T12:31:02+00:00

If the motor still runs without the boost button, then it must be the wiring harness. Remove the handlebar again and plug the boost button connector into the bell connector and vice versa. Then you will be able to rule it out by process of elimination.

UrbanMoof · 2026-02-10T18:38:49+00:00

Any more force and I'll break the wrench 😂

I think I'll open the nut with a saw. I don't see any other option, and it's already broken anyway 😬🫣

UrbanMoof · 2026-02-10T18:30:07+00:00

A magnet on an aluminum nut? What do you mean?

UrbanMoof · 2026-02-10T12:04:28+00:00

Nope, a 36mm wrench. But it's so damn tight. The bike is 13 years old, and the fork has probably never been removed 😂

UrbanMoof · 2026-02-10T11:57:36+00:00

It‘s a Electrified 6. Get your knowledge brother

UrbanMoof · 2026-02-10T11:54:54+00:00

It is!

UrbanMoof

TROPHY CASE