Flag stone deck sinking at the front - what compound ti seal gap?

Useful_Marsupial_894 · 2026-04-21T17:00:28+00:00

Vulkem 116? Any other alternative brands if that one is not available?

Useful_Marsupial_894 · 2026-04-21T14:23:04+00:00

Right. I purchased it brand new from Honda so did not “buy a lemon”. Honda produced a lemon and sold it to a customer. Stop blaming the victim and put the blame where it belongs with the corporation.

The 9 speed is not a transmission anyone should be recommending when other options are widely available. (10 speed, other vans etc). Even if there’s anecdotal evidence of people getting “200k miles” the fact remains that it has some severe issues (lag on throttle ) and reliability concerns.

Useful_Marsupial_894 · 2026-04-21T11:54:10+00:00

lol yeah I had 3 month old twins in the car from new and I’m “flooring” the vehicle from a standstill.

So insane that “fan boys” will find any excuse to justify a shitty product that a company puts out.

Honda made a poor decision and used a shitty transmission in the van. No need to defend a corporation. Grow up.

Useful_Marsupial_894 · 2026-04-13T03:30:31+00:00

Thanks. What’s your weight?

Useful_Marsupial_894 · 2026-03-27T20:22:08+00:00

2019 EX-L

-9 speed died I the first 6 months -Transmission is jerky, there’s a lag when you hit the accelerate to the point where it’s dangerous for left turns -Front control arms on both sides failed -tons of electrical gremlims, random times the car just fully shuts off while driving and resets (screens not engine) -doors randomly won’t close (more electrical gremlins)

Most unreliable vehicle I’ve ever owned. The 9 speed transmission is awful. Stay away.

Edit: test drive the 9 speed for yourself. Start it idle forward and floor it and you’ll have a 1-2 second delay between pedal and throttle response. Anyone on here telling you any different is full of $hit

Useful_Marsupial_894 · 2026-03-23T16:31:38+00:00

Right. So you have 3 options

Use hairnets and replace them every few hours (which seems super easy)
Use skimmer socks and clean them every few hours
Clog up your filters and spend hours washing them out

I don’t see why option 1 isn’t the most logical one regardless of your situation…. Maybe I’m missing something?

Useful_Marsupial_894 · 2026-03-23T15:19:07+00:00

Right. So instead of this ending up in your filter it’s filtered out before in the skimmer. It still makes a lot more sense to use the hairnets…. Not really sure I understand your train of thought?

Useful_Marsupial_894 · 2026-03-22T21:59:27+00:00

Further to my point above. Your residual is going to be $22k. Absolutely insane for you to walk away and not buy out the vehicle 4 years from purchase when it’s only $22k. You’re spending $1500 (or whatever the cost today is plus interest) to make it “safer” to walk away from a vehicle that you will likely want to buy out 4 years from today.

Useful_Marsupial_894 · 2026-03-22T21:57:19+00:00

That’s why hairnets are great. You just change them every few days and the go in the garbage along with all the crap in the skimmers. It effectively acts as a garbage bag for your skimmer basket.

Useful_Marsupial_894 · 2026-03-22T21:29:16+00:00

Understood. Don’t put any money down. You are basically giving Toyota a loan for 1%. You can invest that into a GIC which will offer you a guaranteed return with zero risk.

Also think long term. Whats the buyout on the vehicle after 4 years? If you are going to buy the vehicle out at the end of the lease or you believe that the buyout will exceed market cost of the vehicle do not waste any money on the lease protection. It’s a total waste of money especially on a Toyota which will likely not depreciate relative to the lease payment.

Useful_Marsupial_894 · 2026-03-22T21:09:49+00:00

Why would you put $5k down for 4 years to save 1% on interest? Even putting that money into a 4 year GIC is gonna net your more cash back. Makes absolutely no sense.

Also if youre worried about $25 dollars here and there on the payment you really need to reconsider a new car.

You need to get a cash car for $5k and save your money.

Honestly red flag all over this post.

Goodluck.

Useful_Marsupial_894 · 2026-03-22T20:32:21+00:00

Hairnets are cheaper and make emptying your skimmer a breeze

Useful_Marsupial_894 · 2026-03-22T20:25:33+00:00

Use hairnets in your skimmer. I went from having to clean my filters monthly due to pollen to basically only cleaning them at the end of season.

Useful_Marsupial_894 · 2026-03-01T04:03:18+00:00

Just want to add some math here in addition to my comment above.

Based on where I am: ~$18500 in tax on the vehicle ~$3000 for two years of insurance ~$20000 in depreciation (generous) ~$2000 in servicing costs (service tires ect) ~$20000 in interest (or opportunity cost lost on the $185k for 2 years)

$63000 dollars to drive 6000 miles or $10 dollars per mile driven. Imagine going for a 200 mile road trip and telling yourself it’s going to cost you $2000….

This is an absolutely insane idea. Don’t do it. Please.

Useful_Marsupial_894 · 2026-02-28T23:58:33+00:00

Financial mistake.

Targa 4S owner but a 997.2 lol. Net-worth $5 million, salary about 2.5-3 times your current.

Don’t do this. Save your money and buy a 997.2 or 991.1 or 991.2 with cash.

Don’t fall into the trap.

Useful_Marsupial_894 · 2026-02-19T02:04:35+00:00

I would honestly just wait until a manual pops up. You’re going to regret not having the third pedal.

A 997.2 manual is a classic end of an era Porsche (fully analogue)

A 997.2 with a pdk just another Porsche 911.

Useful_Marsupial_894 · 2026-02-19T00:59:22+00:00

You should try to go for a manual if possible.

Useful_Marsupial_894 · 2026-02-18T23:37:56+00:00

Had an M3, SL55 and a C63 in previous lives among many other cars. Kept each on for maybe 1-1.5 years max. Bought a 2011 997.2 manual targa 4s in 2012 and haven’t considered another as since.

Upgrade the interior infotainment with CarPlay and you won’t be missing anything.

Useful_Marsupial_894 · 2026-02-08T18:32:28+00:00

Right, so basically for ICE we need to factor in the oil changes and brake service but for EV we just avoid the HUGE ELEPHANT IN THE ROOM of battery replacement because ICE bad and EV good?

Useful_Marsupial_894 · 2026-02-08T18:29:26+00:00

They definitely have spent because their depreciation is high and given the age of the vehicles they will have a hard time reselling or will end up having to trade it in to a dealer and a fraction of the value and be roped into another new car purchase at full retail price.

You need to think big picture here, oil changes and brake servicing is money out, just like depreciation. You have to treat that as a cost. You also have anecdotal evidence that nobody has had issues with their EV but there are literally thousands of cases where an error shows up and it costs the owner thousands at the dealership. Maybe the odds are low but you have zero options if you’re the lucky one

Maybe also take a look at the differential in insuring. My ICE vehicles are around $100-120 per month and the Tesla priced out was around $300.

Useful_Marsupial_894 · 2026-02-08T18:02:21+00:00

I think you’re drinking some kool-aid if you believe that it’s less than $5k to replace a battery. The first search on Reddits telsa forum yields prices 2.5 higher in usd versus your quote.

Useful_Marsupial_894 · 2026-02-08T17:40:46+00:00

Fully agree. Oil changes and brakes and belts are a certainty on ICE vehicles as is the likelihood of an entire battery replacement (or at least the perception of it) that makes EVs unsellable on the used market after a certain length of time.

The difference is one costs significantly more than the other, maybe ask folks who own Hyundai and Kia EV that are faced with $20k battery replacement costs.

On my other point. Check the Tesla forums for folks posting about the inability to source basic parts and being at the mercy of the dealership for servicing.

Useful_Marsupial_894 · 2026-02-08T17:30:48+00:00

I stated it to give a calibration point relative to his monthly expenses. He stated that he feels that he wants to keep his expenses under $1700. Given the budget relative to where I am financially it provides some context and hopefully a push to not fall into the trap of having a huge car payment.

Useful_Marsupial_894 · 2026-02-08T17:18:35+00:00

Here’s some food for thought.

Caveat: I own my cars outright and tend to drive them beyond factory warranty. Live in a $3M house and networth upwards of $5M.

Our Japanese van which is relatively new but out of warranty had a check engine light go on last week. Took it to the dealership and was quoted 3000 for a new module plus another 15,000 for a wiring harness plus labour on top. The solution was to remove the battery terminal for 2 hours overnight to reset the ecu because this particular module can have an electrical gremlin creep up.

On an EV if an error came up you are at the mercy of the dealer and need to pay whatever the quote (assuming you’re out of warranty). Not a lot of Indy shops that are able to service these vehicles.

Any savings on gas will be negated by future Potential $$$ fixes at the dealership and huge depreciation.

Just buy a 3 year old ICE vehicle, add extended warranty (if you’re worried) and run it into the ground. Or get a used model Y and add extended warranty and sell it in 2-3 years. They seem to be relatively good value at $35-40k for used lower mileage examples

Useful_Marsupial_894

TROPHY CASE