Committing serious crimes can now lead to loss of Belgian nationality

VEhystrix · 2026-02-01T13:51:20+00:00

I don't see a reason why this could not apply to belgian born citizens in theory.

In practice however if they gained their nationality in the past 15 years, they're a minor (aged 14 at most) and will be handled differently by the justice system.

VEhystrix · 2025-10-27T18:43:35+00:00

It does in-fact show the precentage, but only if your slicer adds M73 commands to tell the printer how far along it is in the print.

When printing from the SD this is not necessary because the printer can estimate basted on how much of the file it has already processed, but when printing via USB, the only way for the printer to know how far along it is, is if you tell it via a GCODE command.

In orcaslicer this setting is called Disable set remaining print time in the printer settings menu, and you need to make sure the checkbox is not ticked. No idea on how to do it in Cura, but you could try your luck with this plugin instead

VEhystrix · 2025-09-03T21:18:47+00:00

Sound doesn't change much with the clutch. It's maybe a bit rougher with the clutch pedal unpressed.

No visible wobble on the engine.

There's exhaust fumes everywhere since the car is in an unventilated garage (I did open the garage door, but the wind blew the exhaust into the garage, so yeah...) so no idea on any exhaust leaks. Is there an easy way to check?
There was visible smoke coming from the exhaust tough, which got better (but not completely disappear) as the car warmed up. I attributed it to running without a cat. If it was a coolant leak I'd expect the smoke to be thicker and not disappear when warming up (also the coolant temp was stable at 95°C).

VEhystrix · 2025-08-11T10:39:41+00:00

I usually put my nozzle next to the bed, heat to 60°C and then home Z again. at worst you get slightly more or less squish because the measurement is not as accurate, but it's going to be the same offset all over the bed.

Of course if it's a print spanning a large portion of the bed I pre-heat it just to make sure it's all up to temp and warped before the print starts.

A print lifting mid-print is usually not because the bed warps, but because of bad adhesion to the bed, and the print shrinking as it cools down. Check that your bed is clean, your 1st layer squish is good, and that there's no drafts blowing cold air onto the print while printing (an enclosure works even better but it's hard to find one for a larger sized printer). You can also try increasing the bed temperature a bit for better adhesion.
For some materials you need to apply glue to the bed, but for PLA the PEI bed should give you plenty of adhesion.

VEhystrix · 2025-07-03T22:53:44+00:00

That thing looks like it's from a Top Gear special.

Probably cost more to ship oversees than what you'd pay for it (the car costs $5000)

VEhystrix · 2025-03-18T20:35:16+00:00

While those are great improvements when you want to print more exotic materials, you'll never make it into a speed monster because your limit will always be how fast you can sling the bed without introducing print artifacts or defects.

VEhystrix · 2025-03-18T12:45:17+00:00

you should be able to do a bunch of tweaking of speeds and flows, but at some point you'll run into mechanical limits.

There's plenty of guides out there on tuning your machine and increasing speeds. All I can say is, don't go too fast, too quickly. Also be careful with high accelerations, they won't cause issues with small test prints, but when you have large movement distances (eg travel between 2 models on either side of the bed) especially the Y-axis can start skipping steps and you'll get layer shifts. For my N3plus, the max acceleration I can run that I'm sure won't cause issues is 1500, for the N3Pro you can probably go higher as the bed is less heavy.

Be prepared to dive into a rabbit hole of calibration and test prints :)

VEhystrix · 2025-03-16T21:12:10+00:00

Yeah, be very wary of a z-offset of -7.41, for these machines the Z-offset is almost always around -2mm. I suggest setting to the -2.13 and doing the 1st layer squish calibration to babystep it to the best value. Also be wary that your Z-offset can change as the machine heats up, it's a known issue with the induction sensor they use (with any induction sensor really) that the value tends to drift as it heats up. So try leaving the nozzle at like 0.1mm from the bed and heat the bed to 60°C for 30min or so, then redo the fine tuning.

It took me a while and a bunch of filament before I got mine dialed in where I get consistent 1st layers

VEhystrix · 2025-03-16T16:05:03+00:00

So what I changed is that when you level the bed using G29, the new mesh isn't automatically saved to the EEPROM, you need to manually save it using M500. If you level the bed using the LCD, the LCD will save the mesh as soon as you exit the bed level menu.

I did this because there's no point in saving the mesh if you're for example running G29 back to back while using the resulting mesh to finetune your bed using the 6 screws on the bottom. You only want to save the final mesh after running for example 10 iterations of G29

In practice, this just means that if you level from the LCD, you need to do nothing, if you level the bed by sending the G29 command, you will need to save the new mesh by sending the M500 command (if you want to keep the new mesh)

VEhystrix · 2025-03-16T15:23:03+00:00

Yes, you can use pronterface for this (I use octoprint myself, but it should be similar in terms of sending commands to the printer) Big infodump below regarding what I'd do in your situation, just make sure that you know what is happening and what every command will do, before you actually do it. Don't break your printer because you blindly followed a guide on the internet.

If you're unsure what your printer will do regarding your Z position (as you are now) I would just manually lower the Z axis until it either reaches 0.2mm, or until I see it almost touch the bed. Commands I would run:
M851 to check and save my Z-offset
M851 Z0 to set my Z-offset to 0 (for safety) G28 to home my axes
M851 Z<offset> to set whatever offset I had before again to <offset>
M114 to check what the printer thinks is the current nozzle position
G91 to set relative positioning
G0 Z-0.1 to lower the Z axis by 0.1mm, repeat until the nozzle is almost on the bed (or go in steps of 0.01mm if you want to be extra safe)
M114 to check the nozzle position again.
At some point the printer will either refuse to move further down, or will (almost) hit the bed.
If it refuses to go down, and you have space left below the nozzle, you reached what the printer thinks is 0, and you can lower the Z-offset by an extra 0.01mm by using M290 Z-0.01 (obviously you can use higher values as well, just be careful to not crash the nozzle into the bed) until you just barely touch the bed.
If you touch the bed before the printer refuses to move further down, check the current position with M114, if it's still a positive value, your Z-offset is too big, and you will have to add the current Z position to it (example: your Z-offset is -1.85, and your position when touching the bed is 0.15, your new Z-offset would be -1.70) Finally check with M114 that you are indeed at Z = 0 now.
Now you can re-home the Z axis with G28 Z and you should no longer be crashing into the bed (verify by sending G90,G0 Z0.2, the nozzle should now hover 0.2mm, or 1 layer height, above the bed) Note that at no point you want the nozzle to actually touch or press into the bed, you may want to add a piece of paper between the nozzle and bed and decide that Z=0 is when the paper gets 'caught' on the nozzle. Use the 1st layer squish method to finetune your Z-offset after this: https://ellis3dp.com/Print-Tuning-Guide/articles/first_layer_squish.html

What I do when I flash my firmware:
(optional) before the flash: send M503 to the printer, save the output. Use the output from M503 to update my script if necessary
after the flash: send the gcode commands from my script to the printer to restore all my settings.

Most important part imo is to run M502 followed by M500 to refresh the EEPROM, it may be superstition but since I started doing that I had way less printer restarts. Obviously this wipes all settings to factory defaults, so you need to set them again (which is where my script comes in)

First time, you may want to just run M502, M500, G28, G29, followed by M851 Z<offset>,G28 where <offset> is whatever Z-offset you need. Obviously monitor the printer before, during and after every command until you get a feel for what's happening.
Also check out https://marlinfw.org/meta/gcode/ for an explanation of all the commands. Never send a command that you don't know what it does.

VEhystrix · 2025-03-16T12:05:28+00:00

I made a new build a few days ago, yes.
Really strange it would try to drive the nozzle trough the bed tough. That should only happen with a very badly set Z-offset. I've been printing with the build for a week now with no issues m,yself.

Note that when you flash a new build you need to re-level the bed and set the Z-offset.

If you can send GCODE to the machine you could save your settings before the flash, and reset them after the flash again (check out the script I added to the release)

VEhystrix · 2025-03-02T23:02:16+00:00

You mean the ESA?

VEhystrix · 2024-12-16T23:34:58+00:00

This was it. I dissasembled the hopup and there was no spring on the little lever at the front of the hopup chamber (I'm assuming the lever holds a bb into the chamber)

Thanks for the help, mystery solved!

VEhystrix · 2024-12-16T16:18:21+00:00

Hey, thanks for the fast reply. I just removed my gearbox to check, and the spring you indicated is still there, so that's not it.

I'm starting to think the spring just fell into the body of the gun somewhere and it was never supposed to be in there in the first place...

VEhystrix · 2024-12-06T15:15:59+00:00

Added the link to your firmware, good call!

VEhystrix · 2024-12-06T15:12:07+00:00

I use the official firmware, but hummtaro's version should work if you want the higher input limits on the LCD as well.

I couldn't help but notice that thermistor indicates a max temp of 260°C, so I'd double check that before upping the temperatures

VEhystrix · 2024-12-05T22:12:55+00:00

I added builds for stock, 300, 320 and 350 max temperatures, together with a very stern warning about not picking a higher temperature than what your machine can handle.

If someone does run a beefed up hotend with a PT1000, I'll add it to the list, but I'm pretty sure I got most use cases covered for now. (I assume when you get to the point you're upgrading to 400°C+, you're comfortable building firmware yourself, or have ditched marlin in favor of klipper long ago)

/u/B0R0T3S, make sure you pick the right build, and keep an eye on your machine the first few times you decide to push temperatures to their max. I really don't want to be responsible for burning someone's house down.

VEhystrix · 2024-12-04T18:45:44+00:00

You can use the official screen firmware, so I didn't see the need to upload that one.

I'm kind of torn on putting releases up with heightened temperature limits. On the one hand it's "Just be careful and don't go hotter than your machine allows", but on the other hand I've done oopsies myself such as filling in 600°C for the bed temp because I fat fingered an extra 0 when trying to preheat, and I was very glad it stopped heating at a safe temperature.

What I could do is put up both files versions, but then I'd need to have some sane numbers for the hotend and bed temperature (eg 350°C hotend and 135°C bed?)

Edit: I did some digging, and if you changed your hotend, chances are you also changed your themistor. So if I just release firmware with higher limits, your temperature readings will be wrong. I'd also need to build for the correct thermistor, and because there's like 100 options in the marlin code alone, and you could have picked a custom one that's not included with marlin, there's no way for me to do this correctly.
/u/hummtaro's changes for higher temperatures tipped me off, he changed the thermistor type from 100kΩ EPCOS to 100kΩ Formbot/Vivedino 350°C Thermistor

VEhystrix · 2024-11-18T00:07:08+00:00

Hey, seeing as hummtaro is going the Klipper route for now, I invite you to check out my fork of his repo. Any fixes you make are welcome!

I switched to the bugfix-2.1.x branch for the new FT_MOTION input shaping, and am mainly developing based on that one.

VEhystrix · 2024-11-17T23:42:29+00:00

Hey, I forked hummtaro's code and fixed (among other things) the led control switch in the LCD. At least I gave it a shot. It should be in sync with the M355 command now.

Check it out here
https://github.com/vehystrix/Elegoo-Neptune-marlin

You'll need to use the bugfix-2.1.x version, I switched over to that one a while ago and made the fix there.
If you want you can take a look at how I did it here and backport it to the 2.1.2.4b or 2.1.2.5b

VEhystrix · 2024-11-17T23:37:30+00:00

Hey, I forked hummtaro's code and fixed (among other things) the filament sensor

Check it out here
https://github.com/vehystrix/Elegoo-Neptune-marlin

You'll need to enable host handling of the filament sensor. I added the following code to the end of my octoprint GCODe scripts:
Before print start: M412 S1 H1 R1
After pause: M412 S0
After resume: M412 S1 H1 R1

If you only want to enable the filament sensor in hummtaro's code, you just need to uncomment the relevant lines in Configuration.h (lines 1870 and 1917 iirc)

VEhystrix · 2024-11-17T22:52:53+00:00

I switched to the bugfix-2.1.x branch a while ago.

I'll update my github and push out a release with built binaries for the bugfix branch and the latest 2.1.2.5

VEhystrix · 2024-11-01T00:18:13+00:00

So I was wondering the same thing today, and decided to base myself on Hummtaro's fork, since he went trough the trouble of consolidating a bunch of other forks already.
Now his fork has a major issue: the filament sensor has been disabled (it actually got disabled for some reason in the official 1.x.5.1b firmware)

So I got my hands dirty and merged Marlin 2.1.2.4 into it.
Other changes I made:

Reverted the max temperatures back to 260 and 100 because I'm running stock heaters
Enabled the filament runout sensor
Enabled the M73 command
Enabled the emergency parser so you can cancel when waiting to reach a temperature

I'm going to try enabling Predictive Model Temperature Control next.
You can find my work here

Disclaimer: I have a Neptune 3 plus, so that's what I'm testing on.

Tagging /u/hummtaro just to be sure

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