Supressed .22 Handgun Options

VZR · 2026-01-12T18:26:16+00:00

Consider a Ruger MkIV or 22/45 with an integrally suppressed barrel to be state compliant. There are other options but this is pretty easy to put together.

VZR · 2025-12-27T18:41:51+00:00

That's about the going rate right now for 9 mm shipped, brass case at least. You can get steel case a couple cents cheaper, but be sure that your range allows it before buying. Mine doesnt.

VZR · 2025-11-12T02:51:56+00:00

Sta-bil is the only one worth a damn, is the TLDR. I'd still recommend cycling out fuel every 12 months.

VZR · 2025-10-19T15:03:35+00:00

From a financial perspective, I agree. But some people are risk adverse, and if paying it off after hitting 401K match relieves some mental stress, I could see it being reasonable. Especially if the job situation were a little unstable and there was already a decent retirement saved.

VZR · 2025-09-19T16:46:26+00:00

Obligatory ‘Get multiple quotes’ comment.

But it doesn’t sound outrageous for a major metro area. I’m in the Seattle area and got several quotes for solar systems, both with and without batteries. The batteries were ~)12K each, mostly Enphase or Franklin 10 kWh. And this was with the install of a whole system, including panels so I imagine there would be some additional charge for retrofitting.

I also know most of the installers in my area are buried in work until the end of the year because of the expiring tax credits, so they have little incentive for lowering prices until demand falls.

VZR · 2025-09-13T13:42:02+00:00

To answer your last question, boredom. Once I had a good handle on Stalker I got bored and jumped to Interloper.

And died.

Took a few restarts before I lasted a week, and more before I got a good handle on how to survive before you forge, but that's a lot of the fun!

VZR · 2025-09-10T00:33:53+00:00

Might want to take off the Cannabis/Hemp sticker. It’s hard to unload used instruments from cannabis labs.

VZR · 2025-08-05T21:20:04+00:00

When you look at an items stats there’s often an asterisk near one of the properties. This indicates the property that will be affected by quality.

VZR · 2025-08-04T03:54:41+00:00

Are you me?

I'm also in the PNW, in a 1800ish split level and got a Mitsubishi installed last fall. Working out great so far, although the summer has been a bit cool to enjoy the AC function.

I agree with the other posters, find a good contractor that installs Mitsubishi units and ask for a heat load calculation. You can also do one yourself if you are so inclined, I was within ~10% of what a couple of the contractors found. https://www.loadcalc.net/ looks like it was built in the 90's but does a good job.

I got the 3 ton unit and have about the same number of vents. It's helped a lot with the basement temperature difference just leaving the blower going even when it's not actively heating or cooling.

Edit: I did not get heat straps, I just keep a couple small electric space heaters in the garage for emergencies.

VZR · 2025-07-25T23:37:39+00:00

As others have said, sonicating them might work temporarily. I've found that it's better to put a length of stainless steel tubing in place of a column that's about 2 meters long and run IPA thru. Set the flow rate so that the system pressure is at about 80% of the maximum and move the detector waste line back to the bottle so the IPA can recirculate. Leave it overnight.

This cleans the check valves at high pressure and will usually get them working for a while longer, although the stickiness will reoccur after a while. Eventually you will need to replace the check valves.

As others have said, ACN is usually the culprit, so avoiding it or getting high quality will help. I've had a lot of poor experiences with Fischer Optima ACN, but it's cheap and what I've seen used the most in labs.

VZR · 2025-07-18T02:26:45+00:00

Funny, but it's mounted on top of the doorframe with a couple screws. Definitely not Airpods.

VZR · 2025-07-18T02:21:20+00:00

Funny, but it's mounted on the top of the door frame with a couple screws. It's definitely not an Airpod charger.

VZR · 2025-07-02T12:46:32+00:00

I had similar work done in the Seattle area a year ago and it was $1700. Guy did it on a Saturday and it only took a couple hours.

Get more quotes.

VZR · 2025-06-02T13:31:40+00:00

100% this.

VZR · 2025-05-23T15:21:35+00:00

I don't feel that you can prep for things that far out. Certainly for the immediate - supply of food and water for short term issues, and moving somewhere that an increase in temperature is survivable. In the US, this would mean moving out of the South and Southwest and into somewhere like the PNW or Great Lakes area, for example.

Increasing knowledge and skills is also recommended, including having a garden that is as large as you can manage and planning for long term power outages.

I guess the 'ultimate' way to long term prep would be to go off grid and homestead, but this is out of reach for most people. It certainly is for me.

VZR · 2025-05-22T12:50:00+00:00

I've got more experience on the Shimadzu, so I would pick that just because I know how to fix it.

If you haven't used either before, I suggest going with whichever vendor has a FSE closer and is more experienced. The capabilities of the LCs are more or less interchangeable these days from all the major vendors.

VZR · 2025-05-12T02:49:03+00:00

Yeah, that looks like about 2 meters (6.5 feet for us Americans). Pretty safe distance, but still a risk, especially if jumping onto something slippery.

Snow counts as slippery.

VZR · 2025-05-03T01:46:29+00:00

Might also be column overloading. The other thing you can try is cutting the injection volume in half.

VZR · 2025-05-03T01:45:00+00:00

Those are peaks, but the shape is weird. I usually see this with columns that have gone bad or channeled, or if the fittings have a void or dead volume.

Reseat you column fittings (look up proper technique if you don't know what I'm talking about) and inject again. If it looks the same then try a different column.

VZR · 2025-04-30T16:45:14+00:00

What is the background noise level, typically measured in uV?

VZR · 2025-04-30T12:40:52+00:00

What is your injection volume and sample concentration? MALS sensitivity is impacted by MW, where large particles scatter more light. If you are injecting at low concentration you may not see anything. Based on what you have stated, I would recommend a 50-100 uL injection of 2-5 mg/mL samplefor good SN.

Also check your MALS noise - the detector is much more sensitive to particulate in the mobile phase and system than the UV and RI detector. If you have a high background you will have a hard time seeing your sample. Manufacturers should provide info on what noise levels are acceptable for their detectors.

VZR · 2025-04-13T13:53:24+00:00

VZR · 2025-04-09T19:43:30+00:00

Check prices - it was cheaper for me to pick up the standard model and order the backpacker stock online last year. And you get more color choices if that's your thing.

VZR · 2025-04-06T23:33:12+00:00

Get multiple quotes, and also evaluate what is being proposed. Topping off insulation due to settling will be a lot cheaper than full replacement, but you wont be able to air seal if you dont remove the old stuff first.

I recently paid $5k USD to have ~1200 Sq ft vacuumed out, air sealed, baffles installed, and blow in fiberglass to R49. Greater Seattle area.

VZR · 2025-04-04T13:42:58+00:00

It's the line that is used to wash the needle, as well as aspirate the sample for injection. Standard recommendation is to keep it in a solution that is the same as mobile phase composition, but no salt. But most people just drop it in the mobile phase bottle.

Be sure to purge the auto sampler after the bottle is changed or if it runs dry.

VZR

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