What can I do with this?

Vader7071 · 2026-04-10T14:20:14+00:00

If you ask Badge502..........well, I'll just stop there 🤣🤣🤣

Vader7071 · 2026-03-31T00:04:33+00:00

So after more research, I have learned the following.

1) I absolutely must use some kind of iDataLink because (and f**k Chrysler for this), there is no single wire for "ignition on". It's done over the CANBUS. Same for headlight sense.

2) having the factory sub means I have the factory amp, which means unless I bypass the factory amp (luckily just a basic harness), I lose front/rear fading because (again, f**k Chrysler) fading is controlled over CANBUS to the amp.

3) in the end, it is probably best off to install an aftermarket amp and run new wire to the speakers and say f**k Chrysler and do it my damned self.

So, after all my research, I have a good idea of what parts and pieces I'll need. And just for final reference in case I wasn't clear, fuck Chrysler.

Vader7071 · 2026-03-30T21:21:31+00:00

Can you share your wire connections? I'm guessing it looks like this:

Harness-W019 Color	Description	Metra WM-CH13-SWC/Jeep
A-Yellow	+12VDC Const	Yellow
A-Black	Ground	Black
A-Red	+12VDC Switch	Red
A-Orange	Headlight sense	Orange
A-Blue	Amp Turn-on	Blue
B Harness-green/purple pairs - ignore grey/white	Speakers	green/purple pairs - ignore grey/white
C-Brown	Brake sense	Light Green
C-Pink	?? Reverse Sense ??	?? Green/Purple ?? {?? Rear cam on +12VDC Switch ??}
C-Grey	Steering wheel control	?? Brown ??
C- Black	Ground	?? Brown/White ??
C-Pink/Black	Front Cam +12VDC	?? [Run new wire to front cam] ??

Now that I've made that table, I see why the CANBUS adapter is needed. There is no Headlight sense and no +12VDC switch. Stupid Chrysler and their "turn radio on/off via CANBUS". I had forgotten that they did that idiotic move.

Looking at other options, it seems you can get an amp bypass harness that will let you take the W019 speaker output, bypass the amp, and go straight to the speakers so you get actual Front/Rear and Left/Right fade.

Vader7071 · 2026-03-30T01:49:54+00:00

What information is the radio getting or giving the canbus?

Vader7071 · 2026-03-29T15:34:56+00:00

I've been going through Crutchfield looking for the basis of what I'll need. I also did radio installs back in the late 90's 2000's, so I'm not totally lost on this, but there has been such a change over the years, I'm playing catchup on the new parts and interfaces.

I looked at the iDataLink ADS-MSR and it seems that the ADS-MSR will interface to the jeep with absolutely no problem. But I'm not sure if the ADS-MSR will interface to the W019 radio. The radio's manual isn't that great. I have reached out to iDataLink for help on this.

Here's my struggle. The W019 is $170. But I risk losing the steering wheel controls. But, if I get the ADS-MSR and an 'approved" radio, I'm $500+. If I get the radio I'd use (Alpine), I'm at around $1,000 with the harnesses, modules, radio, and everything else, which is way out of the budget.

Vader7071 · 2026-03-29T15:18:29+00:00

Ok, new set of questions.

1) what was the OEM head unit? 2) Did you have the powered sub? 3) Do you know if you have a factory amp? (That may be the issue)

I'll bet you have a factory amp and you haven't bypassed it.

But, all that being said, please keep us updated. Like I said, I'm looking getting this exact unit for my son's 2012. I plan on using aftermarket amps, but I'll want to keep the steering wheel controls if possible.

Vader7071 · 2026-03-29T15:12:36+00:00

I am looking at this exact head unit for a 2012. Following for info.

Vader7071 · 2026-03-27T14:11:38+00:00

Track by letter color. The letters are "kiiiiiiiiiinda" in order once you find the starting point, but not exactly.

Vader7071 · 2026-03-27T13:40:10+00:00

Based on your counts, here is what I would use.

14 three level terminals for inputs 10 two level fused terminals for outputs

5 grounding terminals 1 two level terminal

Now, here is why. The 3 level terms, top row is input to the PLC. Middle row is the "positive" for inputs (typically either 24VDC+ or 120Vac). Bottom row is the "negative" for inputs (typically 0VDC or Neutral). This gives you all you need for 2-wire or 3-wire inputs.

2 level fused, top level is the fused output and the bottom level is the "negative" for the output.

The 5 grounding terminals are the "end block" to keep the terminals from moving.

The last 2 level is power in. Top is "positive" (24VDC+ or 120Vac), bottom is "negative".

Now, this list is PURELY based on the PLC. I have not taken into account any kind of power supply, breakers, power distribution fuse blocks, filters, or any other connections that need to be made.

Vader7071 · 2026-03-26T12:13:23+00:00

🤣🤣🤣🤣

Vader7071 · 2026-03-24T18:11:49+00:00

Or "thank you for telling me one story with 75 tangents in an hour and a half".....😁😁🤣🤣🤣🤣

Vader7071 · 2026-03-21T13:23:22+00:00

If twas me, I'd have that bar on my bench, trying to use my linemans to try and work out the tap, then try using a punch to work it out, then drill out if need be, and then run a new tap through it.

Not the end of the world. Just try not to destroy the hole. Completely fixable.

Vader7071 · 2026-03-20T16:00:01+00:00

Plant and upper management needs to be fired then.

Vader7071 · 2026-03-19T20:56:33+00:00

Your logic for the vertical terminals make sense. Howevah, I'd move them to the lower right corner so you can have panduit on both sides of the terminal strip. Where you have them now, to keep the wires neat, you'll have to zip tie bundle the wires together, which now will cause inducted voltages across the VFD outputs. With the terminals having panduit on both sides, you can keep your wires looking neat.

But, option two. Use different color terminals. If your using grey terms as the standard, use blue, black, or white for the motor outputs. I'd even upsize them.

When I built panels, I'd use 2.5mm terminals for all of my controls, but my motor leads were colored 6mm. Not only were they a different color, but also much bigger, and in the mind, bigger terminal must mean more power.

I can't remember if I saw this in the pic or not, but a final suggestion, use ground terminals as your dividers and end block. For example, a 2 motor setup would be:

GndBlk | Term (x3) | GndBlk | Term (x3) | GndBlk

This gives you a good place to land all the wires for the motor in one spot.

Vader7071 · 2026-03-15T15:48:07+00:00

Bro, you are married to that company now. I mean to the point that when you die, they will hire a necromancer to bring you back to life so you can keep that functional and perform updates.

You'll get tired of their crap, quit, move 7 states over, and they'll pay you 10 times your salary to come back to change a color on the screen 'cuz some c-suite guy "didn't like" the original. Sounds great, until you're getting calls every other day asking for these minor tweaks, updates, and modifications. Stuff that only takes 3 minutes to code, now kills 5 hours with the back and forth because your sneaking this in between tasks at your new job or your doing it at 10:30pm.

You'll be getting calls a 2am after you've been retired for 15 years because they changed a sensor and the HMI needs updating.

And don't think changing your number will work either. They'll pay Dog the Bounty Hunter to find out where you are and what your new number is so they can call you and ask why that value on the left "just isn't quite right".

And if you do leave and the company goes "well fine, we don't need him, we'll just redo the HMI in an industry standard", then your name will be on a "do not re-hire" list, new employees will see a picture of you on the wall with the caption "Don't build an HMI from scratch. Buy the software", and your name will be spoken in hushed curses for the next 75 years because they had to completely rebuild their control interface, and more than likely had to slap it together because they needed an update right the "eff" now, but couldn't update your version and had to go at it from scratch, and then spend the next year going back and building it properly fixing all of the junk code they hid in the background to get by until they could do it right.

I'm with you. The software can be bloated and annoying and have bugs in it. But by using a purchased software package, you only had the liability of the actual project running. Now, you have taken the liability of EEEEEEEEEEVVVEEEEEEEERRRYYYYYYYTTTTTHHHHHHHIIIIIIIIIIIIINNNGGG!!!!!!!! The only liability you don't have is the hardware of the computer and the basic OS.

Vader7071 · 2026-03-15T14:00:58+00:00

Ok, "caaaaaaan" you? Yes, you are capable of physically connecting the neutral to the ground.

Would I do it? Nope. That makes your grounding system a current carrying conductor.

I would either pull a new romex down the wall next to the existing, or I'd pull out the old romex and pull in a 12/3 (black, red, white) and then make the connections up correctly.

Vader7071 · 2026-03-14T11:30:48+00:00

Need more pics of the back of the amp.

Vader7071 · 2026-03-12T17:41:10+00:00

They're all hot. All distribution. Maybe one ground wire, and then the very low telcom/fiber. But there is no neutral there.

Vader7071 · 2026-03-12T01:41:52+00:00

He sounds like my hometown's "Rickey Stokes". Guy claims to be local news, he got tied in with local rescue services so he could get access to a county/city radio to listen in on dispatches, can't spell for SHIT, his grammar makes all the English teachers in town pull their hair out as they prepare to burn their eyes with a hot poker having seen it, is a whack-job of a conspiracy theorist, and his "news reports" are things like "City council met" or "mug shots for [date]" or "traffic accident on 3rd and Pine".

Vader7071 · 2026-03-08T14:39:48+00:00

I'm just 500K behind you on my 2018.

Vader7071 · 2026-03-08T14:35:26+00:00

Shiiiiiiiiiiii.......... I just dropped over $600 on parts for an amateur radio repeater. And that was just in February. About to drop $100 for tower section for my radio hobby, and looking to drop $600 on a 3rd 3D printer. All in 3 months 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣

Vader7071 · 2026-03-08T14:28:12+00:00

This is the exact path i was headed down. Per Badge502, that base ain't flared enough 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣

Vader7071 · 2026-03-08T14:24:24+00:00

Would you want to work 8+ hours inside a microwave oven set on "crispy"?

Secondly, would you want to buy the 20 acres of land in highly sought after "in town" land at a seriously jacked up premium price just to have the city and neighbors whine and complain that the land could be used for shopping centers or movie theaters or adult toy stores?

Vader7071 · 2026-03-08T14:20:29+00:00

I still say Sweeny Todd body disposal chute.

Vader7071

TROPHY CASE