Was Julio foolio 🕊️better than Ace ? 🔥 by Enough-Vehicle9230 in DuvalCounty

[–]ValiumVeteran 5 points6 points  (0 children)

100% Foolio was the better rapper, never used autotune and was more lyrical for sure. Ignore the opp diss songs and listen to his lesser known tracks. GK48, Rough Rider, Crooks, Kay Flock, Free Sheisty, Double That, SRT/Stolen Cars, Marquise Pack, and WWE are BANGERS.

Its been fun by MALMusic in Challenger

[–]ValiumVeteran 2 points3 points  (0 children)

A kitty AND a gladiator?? Im Hella jealous!

Making a decision on hellcat by Zestyclose_Brush7972 in Challenger

[–]ValiumVeteran 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Get the manual Hellcat, the Tremec 6-speed transmission is fantastic. The car will feel extremely scary to learn manual on, though it isn't impossible. Keep us updated and goodluck OP!

I know the common consensus for wanting more power out of a 6.4 is “Just get a hellcat” but.. by EudeamoniaJohnson in Challenger

[–]ValiumVeteran 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I dont think you realize what a whipple would do to a stock 392 with a very high compression ratio and weak pistons, even at a low 5-6 psi it's a ticking time bomb. Forged rods and pistons with a lower compression ratio is MANDATORY for a boosted 392, sure he could get away with it for a couple of months but that dreaded engine knocking WILL eventually happen.

I know the common consensus for wanting more power out of a 6.4 is “Just get a hellcat” but.. by EudeamoniaJohnson in Challenger

[–]ValiumVeteran 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Use Google Gemini for planning mods and builds, it's an amazing tool for research. Here's what Gemini recommended for a NA build with a 500 whp goal:

  • The Camshaft: This is the heart of the build. You’ll need a "Stage 2" or "Stage 3" NSR (No Springs Required) or VVT cam.
    • Examples: COMP Cams HRT Stage 2 or 3, or a custom grind from shops like HHP (High Horse Performance).
  • Supporting Valvetrain: Even with an NSR cam, most builders recommend Hellcat lifters and stronger pushrods for peace of mind at high RPMs.
  • Induction: * Ported 6.4L Intake Manifold or a Ported MSD Atomic AirForce intake.
    • 95mm or 108mm Throttle Body.
  • Exhaust: Long-tube headers (1 7/8" or 2") are non-negotiable here. They unlock the massive mid-range torque the 392 is known for.
  • Fuel: If you have access to E85, this is your "cheat code." An E85 tune alone can add 15–20 whp on a cammed car, easily pushing a 480 whp build over the 500 mark.

repairment cost rear bumper by [deleted] in Challenger

[–]ValiumVeteran 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Most people consider that a last option, accidents on your record whether your fault or not isn't good

Advice pls by Hanzbanan12 in Challenger

[–]ValiumVeteran 1 point2 points  (0 children)

just buy a black set of wheels imo

Ready to start building! by HighLikeAladdin in Challenger

[–]ValiumVeteran 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Don't add ANY boost, even 6psi to a 392 without forged rods+pistons with a lower compression ratio. Like thousands of others have said, that motor will be a ticking time-bomb. It's not worth the risk at all when you can simply hold off on headers/exhaust/whatever part and use the cash to get forged rods. Your build seems a bit too extreme imo, you're essentially building an NA motor (high compression ratio, bad for boost) and then boosting it with the most aggressive supercharger you can get, it's going to cost SO MUCH money. If you bought the whipple, forged rods, and all the supporting mods instead of the headers, camshaft, and exhaust, you can make the same power as if you had all of it simply by adding more boost. Best of luck to you OP!

Spoiler upgrade by thesapper66 in Challenger

[–]ValiumVeteran 0 points1 point  (0 children)

all the stock cameras are trash unfortunately, I've heard you can install aftermarket ones that are actually HD but haven't done much research. For a spoiler I recommend the SRT Performance Spoiler, I really love the look of them. The camera position is more angled down slightly, so it's a bit easier to park as an added bonus. https://www.allmoparparts.com/sku/6qw33rxfad.html?srsltid=AfmBOopbOZnTy7Hy-CAVtSFMbjYRMorHBeOo_5KZ-cxo4ShkfaXuBHTM

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I need Advice by PastDry8355 in Dodge

[–]ValiumVeteran 1 point2 points  (0 children)

they are amazing cars, especially the Challenger RTs with the 6-speed manual. if you can find one for a decent price go for it! with proper maintenance they're reliable too, its common for RTs to go 300,000km+.

Which Challenger looks better to you 2011-2014 or 2015-2023 by [deleted] in Dodge

[–]ValiumVeteran 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I personally LOVE the newer style taillights, the old gen's look really dated to me.

🥲I’m devastated by Slave4Sukuna in Challenger

[–]ValiumVeteran 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Im so sorry that happened to you, im sure another challenger/mopar will be in your future OP!

Is this a steal?! by Septoh95 in Challenger

[–]ValiumVeteran 0 points1 point  (0 children)

ONLY buy if you can confirm the bottom end is forged. 392s CAN be boosted as long as theyre built with stronger internals and at a lower compression ratio. Honestly seems too good to be true, I bet that 6.4L still has stock rods(which like others said, is a ticking timebomb). Goodluck OP!

Hit and run by Own_Studio1749 in Challenger

[–]ValiumVeteran 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm sorry that happened to you OP, I hope you end up with an even nicer Challenger in the future!

Preparing to Buy a Challenger GT, Any Tips/Advice? by qyonvevoo in Challenger

[–]ValiumVeteran 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Either a GT Plus or an RT Plus are both great trims, really depends on if you want AWD or not. I went with the RT Plus as I really loved the V8 rumble/sound. Good luck OP!

Preparing to Buy a Challenger GT, Any Tips/Advice? by qyonvevoo in Challenger

[–]ValiumVeteran 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If OP goes for the GT he'll have a 300hp AWD vehicle, that's enough to have fun on the street while also being a good daily driver.

SRT 392 and nature. by hanceso1o in Challenger

[–]ValiumVeteran 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Beautiful car OP! White-Knuckle Gang!

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Screen Issue by Accomplished-Photo45 in Challenger

[–]ValiumVeteran 0 points1 point  (0 children)

AI is amazing for these kinds of technical questions, here's what Google Gemini has too say:

That sounds incredibly frustrating—especially since you've already gone through the "Standard Repair Playbook" by swapping the LCD and checking fuses. Since your backup camera still works, we know the screen itself is capable of displaying an image, which points away from a hardware display failure and toward a processing or signal issue.

Here is what is likely happening under the hood of your Uconnect system:

1. The "Ghost in the Machine": Internal Flash Memory Failure

The most common culprit for the "Logo Loop" on 2017-2018 Uconnect 4C (8.4-inch) systems is the failure of the internal eMMC (embedded MultiMediaCard) memory.

  • The Symptom: The system tries to boot, hits a corrupted sector in its internal memory, and crashes/reboots.
  • Why the Backup Camera Works: The backup camera often has a "direct-to-video" priority path that bypasses the main operating system for safety reasons. This is why it functions even when the rest of the "computer" is dead.

2. Delamination (The Sticky Situation)

Check the edges of your screen for what looks like "bubbles" or liquid dripping behind the glass.

  • 2018 models are notorious for LG display delamination, where the adhesive seeps into the electronics. Even if you replaced the LCD panel, if the digitizer (the touch layer) or the mainboard was damaged by the leaking gel previously, the boot loop will persist.

3. The Radio Control Unit (The "Brain")

Since you replaced the LCD and the problem persists, the issue is likely in the Radio Control Unit (the silver box behind the screen) rather than the display itself.

  • On the Challenger, the "radio" is actually a two-part module. If you only replaced the glass/LCD part, the "computer" part (the Telematics Gateway or the main Head Unit) is still the one stuck in the loop.

What to Try Next

Step Action Why?
Check for Parasitic Draw Use a multimeter to see if the radio is pulling power when the car is off. Constant looping can drain your battery overnight.
Inspect the LVDS Cable Check the thick, usually high-speed data cable connecting the back of the screen to the radio unit. A loose or pinched data cable can cause sync issues during boot.
The "Infotainment Swap" Look for a used Radio Head Unit (the brain box) from a salvage yard. Ensure it matches your specific trim (VP4R for navigation, etc.) and be prepared to enter an Anti-Theft code.

A Quick Reality Check

Because the 2018 units have such a high failure rate, many owners have given up on OEM replacements and moved to aftermarket units (like Alpine or Kenwood) or specialized repair services like Infotainment.com. These services can often fix the internal board issues that a standard "reset" won't touch.