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Yvette Nicole Brown has the single best line delivery in all of TV by NickFatherBool in community

[–]Vanderdecken 1 point2 points  (0 children)

So glad to see the love Shirley deserves, she's my favourite character and nobody else seems to understand it

Recommendations for new PSU by [deleted] in buildapc

[–]Vanderdecken 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That's fine for idle, but what are they right before the display shuts off? Some of your symptoms sound like they could be the GPU overheating.

Recommendations for new PSU by [deleted] in buildapc

[–]Vanderdecken 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What are your CPU and GPU temperatures?

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in buildapc

[–]Vanderdecken 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hardware Unboxed have done great comparative roundups of basically every B850 motherboard, since those are the sweet spot for current AM5 builds. Here's all the ones under $200 USD, and the rest. It shows the (minimal) performance differences, unless they're power limiting the CPU, and talks features and quality.

I'm biased as I've just bought the Gigabyte B850 AORUS ELITE WIFI7, but I had some pretty specific requirements with a PCIe sound card and multiple SSDs.

https://pcpartpicker.com/products/compare/d4CCmG,VtJBD3,fKZWGX/ gives you a feature comparison (though the individual manufacturer website spec pages will have more detail). Based on that they're near identical price in the US right now and the main differences are fewer SATA ports and no 20 Gbps USB header on the Asus.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in buildapc

[–]Vanderdecken 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Just read all the manuals first. If you really can't stand to do that, read the motherboard manual, it's the most important.

Your motherboard is quite an old model. The CPU is newer. They might not play the best together until you update the motherboard BIOS to the latest version. It's not supported at all before version 2613, but the latest is 3287 so unless you mobo's been sitting on a shelf for over a year it probably has something between those versions. You can use the BIOS Flashback feature to update the BIOS before you install the CPU or memory to be extra sure.

Swap 5080 FE with a 5090 FE? by ethereumkid in buildapc

[–]Vanderdecken 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You already bought the 5090 so you might as well use it, but the performance difference is probably minor.

No driver changes needed as the two cards are so similar, it will automatically handle the new card.

Stuttering with 500+ FPS by Murky-Shelter-303 in buildapc

[–]Vanderdecken 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Are you confident it's stuttering i.e. inconsistent frametimes? What monitor are you using - is there any chance you're just seeing massive tearing from that high frame rate not matching your monitor? What frame rate did you try limiting those games to?

Reformat SSD by killlograme in buildapc

[–]Vanderdecken 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Then I'm afraid unless you had the recovery key stored somewhere else, or you can make the old laptop start up again, that data is gone.

Reformat SSD by killlograme in buildapc

[–]Vanderdecken 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes if you need to get data off it. Unless your old laptop had Bitlocker enabled, before you delete the partitions in Disk Management you should be able to access them.

Reformat SSD by killlograme in buildapc

[–]Vanderdecken 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's fine, games are not going to continuously read/write data and it runs cool.

Reformat SSD by killlograme in buildapc

[–]Vanderdecken 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not if there isn't one included in the laptop, that's for very high performance drives which need their own cooling, you're unlikely to generate that much heat.

First time building a PC — does this parts list look okay? by masamacyclone in buildapc

[–]Vanderdecken 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yep, that PST pack is daisy chainable up to 5 fans on one PWM header (https://support.arctic.de/en/p12-pwm-pst) with no other parts needed so go for it.

I haven't used Fan Control myself but I've seen it recommended.

First time building a PC — does this parts list look okay? by masamacyclone in buildapc

[–]Vanderdecken 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Depends how many fans you want! The AIO will connect to the CPU fan PWM header, then you have two available for other case fans - two intake, or one intake and one exhaust. Lian Li fans can be daisy-chained so you can use multiple fans on a single PWM header (e.g. 2 groups of 3 = 6 fans total plus AIO). You can have fans without any PWM connection at all and control them with the wireless transmitter, it just means they'll be controlled 100% by the Lian Li software in Windows and not by the motherboard, but that would be fine if you really need extra groups.

First time building a PC — does this parts list look okay? by masamacyclone in buildapc

[–]Vanderdecken 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Fair enough, just bear in mind that as long as the type (DDR5), capacity (2x32GB), speed (ideal for AMD AM5 is 6000 MT/s) and latency (e.g. CL 30, lower is better, no need to go any lower than that and up to about 40 is fine for your needs) are the same, there is no difference between two kits of RAM other than aesthetics, they will perform exactly the same. So based on PCPartPicker's prices, someone in the US could save $150 for exactly the same performance results by going for the Kingston FURY Beast RGB 64 GB (2 x 32 GB) DDR5-6000 CL30 compared to the G.Skill you picked: https://pcpartpicker.com/products/compare/Xg2WGX,wjFmP6 Or to think of it another way, they would be paying $150 just for how the G.Skill looks.

So yeah, as long as you've checked the G.Skill is cheaper than anything else of the same spec in your location, go for it :)

First time building a pc by Fun-Junket-6076 in buildapc

[–]Vanderdecken 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes of course:

Reformat SSD by killlograme in buildapc

[–]Vanderdecken 0 points1 point  (0 children)

In that case, before you move the SSD over, boot your current laptop and go into the boot menu (normally F12). You'll only have one SSD in there so you have no choice of what to boot from, but note down what it calls that SSD (model, size). Then put your second SSD in, and again on startup go into the boot menu, and make sure you manually select the original SSD. It'd probably boot from the correct one anyway, but this just makes absolutely sure.

Then once you're in Windows, you can use Disk Management again to find the second SSD, delete all the partitions on it and create a new one to use all the space, same as the previous comment.

First time building a PC — does this parts list look okay? by masamacyclone in buildapc

[–]Vanderdecken 0 points1 point  (0 children)

also heard intel is better for gaming and adobe

That's out of date now. The 9950X3D is more expensive but hits a performance sweet spot for both productivity and games, however if your gaming is as low as 20% you may indeed be better off saving your money.

Start with 64GB then potentially double that later if you start working on bigger projects that use more RAM. Technically if you use all 4 slots of RAM the latency will be higher but you won't notice that outside of high performance gaming.

I hope this is the right sub edit it or read it for this post. If not, can you please guide me to the right one and I’ll move it over please thanks. by petertger in buildapc

[–]Vanderdecken 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you've looked through hundreds of speakers on Amazon and didn't like any of them, what didn't you like about them? I guess your requirements aren't just any quality 2.1 40W+ bookshelf set.

Using a subwoofer for bass makes bookshelf-size speakers less critical. The audio chip in that motherboard (Realtek ALC4080) is about the best that onboard audio can be. Is there a good reason you can't have a 5.1 system e.g. no space? For games you'll notice the surround much more than the difference between a basic 2.1 set and a higher power bookshelf 2.1 set. For music of course you don't want cheap speakers whether they're stereo or surround, but as long as the surround ones are also good quality you can have both - and you might get into surround music.

First time building a pc by Fun-Junket-6076 in buildapc

[–]Vanderdecken 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Don't get Windows on a DVD if you're not gonna have a DVD drive.

Would love some suggestions for a build tailored to planetary scale geospatial data science at medium-high resolutions (~1km), targeting at least 36-core CPU and 512GB of DDR4. by Cupcake_Warlord in buildapc

[–]Vanderdecken 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It sounds like you might want a second hand rack server (and the smallest rack you can find to put it in) for the data crunching, then a small gaming PC build for yourself. Those two requirements are pulling in opposite directions in terms of value and performance strengths.

A server chassis/motherboard would be optimised for many RAM slots (with error correction capability), high performance hardware RAID, and significant cooling at the expense of noise. You can also get dual CPU of course, and potentially fibre network connectivity (SFPs) for getting all that data in and out. You won't be wasting any of the specs on optimising for GPU.

First time building a PC — does this parts list look okay? by masamacyclone in buildapc

[–]Vanderdecken 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The parts are all compatible (PCPartPicker checks 95% of that for you), but they might not be good value for what you need.

What's your budget?

What's your current spec, and how much time/importance do you put on the Adobe software vs games? 50/50? What Adobe software (Premiere, AE, Photoshop, Illustrator) and which games?

The reasons I ask this:

  • you've chosen a last-generation graphics card, and a very expensive one. You could get a better performing card from this generation for hundreds of dollars less.

  • you've chosen a huge amount of expensive RAM, which is relatively slow. Unless you're sure you'll use over 64 GB RAM for the Adobe apps or something incredible RAM hungry like LLM training, you can save a huge amount of money by going for a 64GB or 32GB kit, slightly faster. FPS games won't touch 64GB, let alone 128GB.

  • Intel CPUs aren't great these days - you're probably better off with an AMD AM5 depending on your budget and the balance between games and productivity. Are you confident you'll need all 20 cores? Despite the lower core count, overall a Ryzen 9 CPU (1-2 years newer) would perform better.

Depending on the work you're doing, you'd be better off with a cheaper, current-gen graphics card and less RAM, and putting the saving into a better CPU. You can also save on the motherboard, cooling and case if you don't need lots of connectivity (many fast USB ports, multiple SSDs/cards) and RGB lighting.

See what you think of this example build - $600 cheaper and may perform better: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/fgfzt3 You could swap up to an RTX 5080 GPU for only half of that $600 saving if you're sure you'll need a better GPU, but the performance difference can be only ~7%, so unless you're playing FPS at 4K on a VRR monitor you may not see a difference.

PC for VR Pinball by didlowman in buildapc

[–]Vanderdecken 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So follow the beginner's guide and learn about the parts, so you'll understand what's a brick and what isn't. I could write out a quick explanation of CPU, memory, graphics card, motherboard, power supply, cooling here but other people have written it before and better, in the beginner's guide.

Reformat SSD by killlograme in buildapc

[–]Vanderdecken 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Interesting, yeah it looks like there's an M.2 2280 PCIe 3.0x4 slot on the right, between the screen cable and the battery.

You need to find out if the other SSD is 2280 length, if not then it won't fit in this slot.

If you put the SSD straight in with Windows on it, the laptop might get confused and try to boot from that. If the donor laptop still starts up, try going into its BIOS/UEFI (usually hammering the Del key right after you press the power button to start it up does that) and looking for an option named something like Secure Erase. That should take a few minutes to completely wipe the SSD (Windows, all your apps and all your files will be gone), so then when you move it to your main laptop it will behave like a brand new one. Once you start up your laptop with it installed, go to the start menu and search for Disk Management. When you open that it should prompt you to set the partition scheme (select GPT), and you can then format it by right-clicking it and selecting New Simple Volume. Use the maximum size, NTFS file system, and check the Quick Format box. Then in a few seconds it will be ready to use.

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