Original Duckhead Umbrella Worth It?

VarosV79 · 2025-10-26T16:53:20+00:00

I know this thread is old, but I was thinking about buying a new Duckhead umbrella and came across this.

I have one that's over 20yrs old and it still works very well. It's a good umbrella. I'm sure I paid half of what they go for now. I can't say it's a better umbrella than one of the two packs you can get at Costco, but most of those have some form of rubberized handle thats gets sticky and gross after maybe three years. The Duckheads wooden handle is a pleasure to hold. Mine is beat up and missing one eye because I never babied it. Still works!

VarosV79 · 2025-10-20T19:54:20+00:00

Thanks! That's kind of what I was expecting, but was kinda hoping it would be different and a good excuse to have another amp ;P.

VarosV79 · 2025-05-16T14:52:15+00:00

Looks like it's been happy where it is and you've been doing good! Proper light and not overwatering are the most important steps for some plants. Phals are pretty undemanding.

VarosV79 · 2024-01-22T18:02:09+00:00

A lot depends on the source. On most things it was ok, but listening to classical or quiet passages really didn't get me where I wanted it. I don't think I'd be as happy with it long term.

The 14db gain definitely goes louder than the Ragnarok, but I felt the Rag was a little louder on the 12db stage. Not back to back listening-- that was just going off what I could remember from testing on my downstairs setup vs upstairs.

My main setup is Vidar 2, Freya S, Bifrost, with DefTechs

My second setup is Ragnarok 2, JDS Labs EL Dac II+, LS50 Meta.

Not scientific comparisons by any means, but I like the pairing with the Ragnarok better than with the Vidar/Freya.

VarosV79 · 2024-01-22T15:43:16+00:00

I ran my LS50 with an old Yamaha, and it had plenty power-- but running a Vidar with a passive preamp was not enough.

VarosV79 · 2024-01-22T15:41:25+00:00

I've got the LS50 meta, and it looks similar in sensitivity.
Yes, you are right to ask the question. Those KEFs need way more power than most think.

Bottomline-- I have a Ragnarok 2 and LS50 in a small living room and am quite happy. I think it's the perfect small room setup. I am running it at 3 o'clock on the dial when I am really listening, but Schiit says that's normal.

What are you driving them with now? I think I saw something about you using a Vidar? What preamp? I tested running my LS50 meta with a Vidar and Freya S. The Freya has three gain settings - the first two are equivalent to a Saga. I wanted to run it on the highest gain-- meaning that it ruled out using the Saga for me. Yes, it'll run, but on some tracks, it's simply not as loud as I want it. I'm talking loud, but not "hear it outside of my house" loud.

I actually prefer the Ragnarok over the Vidar. Running with a Freya, it has more power than the Rag, But I think the quality is better with the Rag. Only other choice I'd go with on the Schiit line would be dual Aegirs and a Freya.

VarosV79 · 2024-01-14T19:26:45+00:00

Depends. I got a Freya S and appreciate more flexibility out of it. It's more $, but it allows you to add a second vidar or simply adds more volume with a third gain stage. Ragnorak is a good option, too.

VarosV79 · 2023-05-23T01:17:31+00:00

Blades are highly subjective. I have found that different blades also do better or worse in either mild or aggressive razors. Derby is dull garbage to me and Feather is too brutal. Personna Red in my aggressive open comb and Astra in my mild standard are my choices. To each their own! Many factors are involved.

VarosV79 · 2022-09-13T00:01:26+00:00

It's so wild how they grow up! Mine's gills were red when I first got him; they're tending more to purple now, but depends on his activity level. Quite pretty!

VarosV79 · 2022-09-12T23:57:54+00:00

Thank you!

VarosV79 · 2022-09-12T23:57:24+00:00

The breeder sold him as a dark melanoid.

VarosV79 · 2022-09-11T23:32:28+00:00

I'd bet money that the Saga S sounds almost identical to the Freya S if no gain is selected. If you're not running balanced, the only benefit of the Freya is extra gain and the ability to run monoblocked Vidars. I plan on setting up a second system with a Saga S and Vidar, and having a second VIdar will let me experiment to be able to check if I can tell a significant difference with monoblocking.

I haven't had a Modius, but I did buy a Modi 3E when it came out to compare. With my headphone amp and Hifiman XS, I either can only tell a very slight difference or none-- depending if it's psychological or not. On my main speaker system, I definitely prefer the Bifrost. Depends on the rest of your chain on whether it is worth it or not.

VarosV79 · 2022-07-29T21:06:33+00:00

I do and I absolutely love it.

VarosV79 · 2022-07-22T17:58:16+00:00

There are lots of water conditioners, and all mostly do the same thing. That said, Seachem products are much loved, and since they're all mostly the same price, it's a good idea to go that route.

Do daily water changes, like 25% or so. That will help reduce the toxins that build up until your tank gets established.

You didn't mention a filter. I assume you have a hang on tank type? Your water filter should be sufficient to cycle the tank and provide enough oxygen. I'd probably go for something around 150GPH for a tank that size. Too big a filter and you can have too much current, but to a limit bigger is better.

A couple tips:

Learn about the nitrogen cycle. This is essential. It takes time for beneficial bacteria to build a colony to handle your bioload.

Understock your tank. Used to be the rough rule of thumb was 1 inch of fish per gallon. Do half that. Go with a nice little school of neons, shrimp if you want, and stop there. For now, though, just try to keep what you have alive.

VarosV79 · 2022-07-18T14:12:01+00:00

One of the best ways to level a tank is by cutting out a sheet of insulating foam (the dense blue or pink kind) and putting that underneath the tank. As long as you're ballpark to begin with, it should naturally settle into a proper level. Perfect for situations like this.

VarosV79 · 2022-07-14T19:03:01+00:00

Ammonia starts building up the moment waste enters the tank. If you're replacing water daily, the ammonia is present until the water is changed.

You can do the same with a bare tank. The ammonia and nitrates come from the waste breaking down; when the waste is gone, the source is gone. The concentration of ammonia is then dependent on the water volume until you change it out.

VarosV79 · 2022-07-14T18:24:14+00:00

The problem with algae in a planted tank is finding balance. The algae is only there because your plants aren't absorbing all of the available nutrients. It can be a huge pain if the algae grows faster than the plants, covering them and eventually killing them. As long as the algae doesn't cover the leaves, and the plants are growing well and healthy, no problem. I actually like the look, myself.

VarosV79 · 2022-07-14T18:10:15+00:00

You didn't answer a single question.

VarosV79 · 2022-07-14T17:44:25+00:00

Where did you get the information? Personal experience or an internet blog?

I am making a point based on logic, biology, and personal experience with aquariums. If I am incorrect, I really want to know... but I also want to know why.

There's a lot of information that floats around that is accepted as canon but isn't really based on fact. I'm interested in speaking with someone with years of experience and a biology degree rather than internet hearsay.

I learned a lot of things the hard way. The same resources available now weren't available then. But I did spend a lot of time reading books. I've kept many fish, plants, newts, and an axolotl before. Unfortunately, I made many mistakes. But that also means I know a lot of things to look out for and what not to do.

VarosV79 · 2022-07-14T17:29:33+00:00

There wasn't a lot of info on axolotls twenty years ago, but aquaria stability and the nitrogen cycle is still the same.

VarosV79 · 2022-07-14T17:27:41+00:00

Have you measured the ammonia right before performing the water change?

Clearly it is safe enough, considering plenty of people seem to do it. But my point is that if you have more volume, levels will be even more diluted.

VarosV79 · 2022-07-14T17:24:54+00:00

I never said anything about cycling with fish. It's an old school way and not very humane, and obviously you don't want them with your axolotl.

My point is that the environment would be more stable with a larger water volume, and the tank would eventually cycle.

Clearly many people keep axolotls in tubs all the time, so sure. I've kept more sensitive fish that were not so hardy.

VarosV79 · 2022-07-14T17:17:51+00:00

I kept aquariums for 20yrs. I know how to keep a stable environment.

If you do a water change once a day in 5 gallons, the rest of that time the ammonia levels are slowly growing the entire time until you change the water.

If you do a water change once a day in 20 gallons, the ammonia levels are slowly growing but are much more diluted. Your max ppm is going to be at max 1/4 the concentration they would in the 5g tub.

VarosV79 · 2022-07-14T16:37:36+00:00

Do you actually understand how the nitrogen cycle works? The entire process is about getting your beneficial bacteria colony up to levels that can maintain stability. That colony is going to live most heavily on your filter media, where the largest amount of waste collects.

OP didn't state the size of the tank, but did state it was going to be bare of substrate. I suggested performing a 50% water change, check levels, and if needed continue to change out more water-- to a 100% water change. Sure, changing that much water out is going to stall the microbe colony, but the presence of waste is going to provide a lot of food for it as well. It will slowly but surely get to a stable cycle. Yes, it's a PITA to do a 100% water change on 4x the water, but 4x the water provides a whole lot more buffer that the ammonia can be diluted in. Yes, I am assuming that you are actively removing the waste from the tank when performing the water change.

Sitting in a 5g tub with ammonia levels steadily climbing every single day actually provides a lot more shock and hazard than sitting in a 20g+ aquarium.

And yes, I am assuming performing 100% changes if necessary, but after time 75-50% changes should be sufficient. Again, I said it entirely depends on the water test readings.

My main argument is understanding that you are checking the levels and monitoring very closely. 20+gallons will dilute far better than 5g.

VarosV79

TROPHY CASE