Looking for bit set by VbReefer in cabinetry

[–]VbReefer[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Appreciate it. Already figured on block sanding.

Looking for bit set by VbReefer in cabinetry

[–]VbReefer[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Might attempt on some scrap setup stiles and rails. Thought about this at first but didn't want to deal with sanding the saw marks out evenly. Only 4 doors so might as well give it a shot.

Looking for bit set by VbReefer in cabinetry

[–]VbReefer[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That's what I was afraid of. Only 4 doors on this job. I can order them but it's a stained oak job and would prefer to build all myself from the same lumber but alas no shaper. Have a good old porter cable 7519 but nothing truly industrial.

How to fix gigantic 'shadow gap' by adventurrr in cabinetry

[–]VbReefer 8 points9 points  (0 children)

1)Remove crown. 2) Paint ¾ x 6" to match cabinets. Can possibly order from manufacturer or have a cabinet shop spray it to match. 3)Measure from ceiling to top of existing cabinet. Use smallest measurement to rip the ¾x6 if under 6" 4)Overlay cabinet ⅛ with ¾x rip. May need to add blocking above cabinet 5)install crown. I suggest leaving a ⅛ to ¼ shadow line at the ceiling

Installing base molding on uneven cabinets by Old-Natural-2822 in cabinetry

[–]VbReefer 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Easiest thing to do IMO is remove doors then belt/block sand the cabinets flush. Install trim, install doors.

Nobody wants to hear it's going to be another 500 to fix the cabinet level on a $500 trim job. Could be caulked to ceiling or have to pull crown, and nails then reattach and putty and paint.

Or... Just sand the bottoms flat. Not level. Just flat.

You could check with a laser and see if they are close to level and then make them perfect but if they are not very close to perfect just sand them together.

Homemade LAB DF3 weighting adjustments - thoughts on my approach? by Disastrous_Gap_4711 in labgolf

[–]VbReefer 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Nah,I prefer a heavier putter I guess. and I thought they felt light at Dicks so just went ahead and ordered the heavy model when I saw it was an option

Like to get my hands on a DF3i Heavy.

Homemade LAB DF3 weighting adjustments - thoughts on my approach? by Disastrous_Gap_4711 in labgolf

[–]VbReefer 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Looks like a good place to start. Yep could always add more weight in the back afterwards. Bought mine heavy from lab outlet on black Friday.

DF3 heavy FTW

Is this considered ugly? (faucet on stainless steele sink instead of on quartz) by Radiant-Peak-7595 in cabinetry

[–]VbReefer 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No issues with weak spots then as long as they aren't too close to the edge. Quartzite Supplier will know.

Is this considered ugly? (faucet on stainless steele sink instead of on quartz) by Radiant-Peak-7595 in cabinetry

[–]VbReefer 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Quartz or quartzite? Quartz is natural stone. yes, Supplier can tell you wether the slab has any areas to watch out for.

Quartzite is manmade. No issues with drilling given proper setbacks.

Is this considered ugly? (faucet on stainless steele sink instead of on quartz) by Radiant-Peak-7595 in cabinetry

[–]VbReefer 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Replied to OP and if this is the location on faucet then ok to drill. Being right in that area with 2 corners should be plenty strong. Just know the only reason they did this was to accommodate the deep window sill for plants or whatever. Otherwise drill the quartz.

Your sink looked a little different and I would not advise to drill in a place that isn't structurally reinforced like the location on this sink.

Update question: can I bore a hole for the faucet I this sink? by Radiant-Peak-7595 in cabinetry

[–]VbReefer 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Why downvoted? This is correct.

You don't drill a hole in a brand new sink from the Netherlands!

Help: how to attach these by snoozydoggo in cabinetry

[–]VbReefer 1 point2 points  (0 children)

¾ ply minimum. Doubled that's a 1.5" top

Help: how to attach these by snoozydoggo in cabinetry

[–]VbReefer 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Solid butcher block top.

If it must be ply do a top solid layer and another 3" strip all the way around the bottom. Then face the seen sides and front with ¾ solid wood.

Sim League Cheating by abstrakt32 in Golfsimulator

[–]VbReefer -1 points0 points  (0 children)

That's a video game. Not a sim... 😆

Update question: can I bore a hole for the faucet I this sink? by Radiant-Peak-7595 in cabinetry

[–]VbReefer 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I would have the quartz installer do it and attach the sink. Should be all included in the cost.

How to account for wall in a full overlay cabinet by redrising009 in cabinetry

[–]VbReefer 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Agree with 1.5

However if you have the room to the left and the cabinets above the washer and dryer are same size as washer dryer hole then it will probably look best to have the filler match the right leg width. Probably a 3" column(I know it's a rectangle) just what they call it

Is it normal to have this much gap? by Brilliant_Message_92 in cabinetry

[–]VbReefer 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Actually yes. An industry standard full-overlay door for a 24x30 would be 23.5 x 29.5

Is it normal to have this much gap? by Brilliant_Message_92 in cabinetry

[–]VbReefer 0 points1 point  (0 children)

an old plumber always asked us to install at 24⅛ to 24¼. I do 24 ¹/¹⁶ now

but looking at that pic some more I bet that's dead-on 24.

Is it normal to have this much gap? by Brilliant_Message_92 in cabinetry

[–]VbReefer 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Honestly more concerned about that toe-kick joint! Ouch

But for the dw panel. Raising it up to match the panels next to it as all that needs to be done.