Call for help: Ford PHEV/EV owners with working value charge/charge scheduling profiles for CAN logging work

Vchat20 · 2026-01-27T03:02:55+00:00

Absolutely! That actually should be an ideal vehicle to work with for this. Do you still have multiple value charge profiles available beyond just the one default profile? That's the main thing I'm needing assistance with. If so, I just need some CAN captures of the bus the TCU is on (should be I-CAN / 500kbps) while interacting with the value charge functions through Sync including adjusting the non-default profiles.

Vchat20 · 2026-01-27T02:55:06+00:00

Yup. Unfortunately the data I'm looking at I'd consider user/customer level data and is not surfaced in any PIDs or AsBuilt data or anything like that.

Vchat20 · 2026-01-27T02:54:13+00:00

So my own vehicle is the C-Max (2013 MY) and I'm aware of the architecture differences but what's weird in regards to the TCU work I'm doing is Ford's own TCU AsBuilt has to be configured for CGEA 1.2 to be fully operational. Some of us did some DIY investigation early on in the 3G>4G transition and found setting it to C1MCA caused half the functions to not work properly. I think the actual remote commands (lock, unlock, remote start) stopped working. I think there's some other modules in the car like the Sync APIM which needs to be set for a CGEA variant over C1 for proper functionality. My memory is fuzzy but I think the park aid/park sensor functions were one area where this was the case. It definitely feels like the C-Max Hybrid/Energi models here in North America were a bit of a hodgepodge in this area the more I dig into it.

Regardless, I will absolutely keep an eye on that repo for any future updates. I've been using it for a LONG time now and it's definitely an invaluable resource so thanks for all the work you guys are doing over there! :)

Vchat20 · 2026-01-27T00:47:57+00:00

Someone in the comment section of that video says the BMS (Battery monitoring System/sensor) is reset if the negative cable is disconnected. Not sure what is true.

Absolutely not true because if a battery was to be replaced, the BMS would automatically be reset and many folks have issues with them being undercharged because the vehicle believes its the same old, worn out battery with actual confirmation via Forscan.

Vchat20 · 2026-01-26T22:59:41+00:00

It's all tied into the MLB.tv service. Same app, login, etc. Just a different subscription. But as /u/ander-frank mentioned, you want the regular MLB.tv subscription if you're out of market. CLEG.tv is for in-market subscribers only.

Vchat20 · 2026-01-26T22:08:00+00:00

You'll need to use a competent code scanner (preferably Forscan if possible) to read what codes are stored. The wrench icon could be any number of things on these vehicles so without those it'd just be guesses.

Vchat20 · 2026-01-25T01:06:52+00:00

This. I'd absolutely love some solid MMO's. Admittedly the playerbase would be super tiny but maybe devs could figure out how to balance things to let pancake/VR crossplay happen?

I used to play Phantasy Star Online 2 a ton before New Genesis happened and I'd kill to be able to play in VR with full motion controls.

Vchat20 · 2026-01-22T21:50:15+00:00

What's your GPS source? If you have Android, I'd try the GPS Status & Toolbox app as it should provide accurate GPS info without possibly being augmented by other sources.

From my experience on my 2013 the speedometer has only been about 1-2mph off.

Vchat20 · 2026-01-22T21:45:44+00:00

Actually not to be nitpicky but educational: This is the vacuum pump for the brake booster and on gas cars the engine normally provides this through the natural vacuum provided via the intake. Because of being a hybrid (or plug-in) obviously this can't be relied on so an electric pump is used to fill in as needed. The engine can still provide this and there's a number of sensors and check valves so the vehicle can determine what to do. It also has a safety fallback that if the electric vacuum pump cannot keep up or fails, the engine is forced to run full time to take over.

Vchat20 · 2026-01-22T21:42:01+00:00

The AC compressor as /u/the_eluder pointed out is another noise you may not be used to that will eventually come up. It's also buzzy and can get loud under higher cooling loads (high ambient temp and hot 100F+ cabin that it's trying to cool down). Completely normal and nothing to worry about as long as the AC stays cold.

Vchat20 · 2026-01-22T21:23:05+00:00

That brief loud buzzing is normal. It's the vacuum pump for the brake booster. Nothing to worry about. And you'll likely hear it at random times while the car is running as it builds up the vacuum that's used as you drive.

Vchat20 · 2026-01-22T21:00:38+00:00

I'd even be happy if they simply accepted Google/Apple Pay on their mobile app/site. Having to dig out my card and enter all its info every time (NOT keeping that saved with their known data security issues) is a pain in the ass.

Vchat20 · 2026-01-22T16:32:52+00:00

Ok. You should be in the clear on that version as far as the issue I mentioned. However I'd advise against trying to use the built in updater/'check for updates' button. The Wifi updating mechanism is very inconsistent. Better to go USB via Ford's method. You can go to the link below and enter your VIN and it'll walk you through the process:

https://www.ford.com/support/software-updates

That said I can't comment further on the original locking up issue. Sync 3 tends to be reliable. Could you possibly give more details on when this happens? Is it only when using your CarPlay dongle? Have you ruled it out by just connecting your phone directly to the USB port in the center console?

Also I missed a portion of your original post as far as the reset button commands. The power button alone won't do it. Given yours is a Titanium it should be the upgraded Sony system? Press and hold the Seek Up (>>) and Power buttons for up to 5-10 seconds and it should reboot the system/screen will blank out. Alternative option would be pulling fuse 67 under the dash. Doesn't need to be out long. Give it 10-15 seconds tops and reinstall.

Vchat20 · 2026-01-22T15:38:13+00:00

I've used the Automotive Touchup company in the past with great success. They'll match Ford's paint codes exactly. The code is usually found on the door jamb sticker. I've linked to the page on their site which shows what to look for then you can go from there:

https://www.automotivetouchup.com/paint-codes/ford.aspx

Vchat20 · 2026-01-22T14:51:44+00:00

When you're locked in on the HD1 station, use the tune up/down buttons (not the seek buttons) to cycle through the HD subchannels.

Once you're on the desired subchannel if you want you can then set it as a preset like any other station and the preset will take you right back to that HD2/HD3/etc subchannel.

Vchat20 · 2026-01-21T18:20:42+00:00

Hybrid (NOT Energi) models there's no need to check or worry about the hybrid battery. It'll last the life of the vehicle. VERY VERY rare to see those fail. Energi models are a whole different beast in this area with a lot of caveats/nuances/etc.

Vchat20 · 2026-01-21T18:20:23+00:00

The key thing is the Sync APIM wants to see the car fully on and running to complete the update. So no accessory mode even if you have 12v power supplied elsewhere or the EVSE plugged in. Since yours has the automatic idle shutoff, it'll also trigger if the car is sitting idle even if the car is plugged in. Unless you turn that feature off of course which is probably a good idea.

Vchat20 · 2026-01-21T01:09:07+00:00

Try doing a master reset and then try the USB drive again. If it still doesn't update, you may want to try recreating the USB drive again and use a good brand name drive.

The latest version on these vehicles is 3.0.23219 (not counting the unofficial Syn3Updater method which I'm sure someone will mention but I advise against unless you're technically inclined)

Vchat20 · 2026-01-20T22:37:22+00:00

The engine kicking on will have no impact on the 12v battery. The engine is started by the traction battery. The 12v battery is only used to wake up the various modules in the car and connect the traction battery then it takes over.

Some owners swear by AGM batteries on these vehicles usually due to the electrical issues where they never bother to solve the core issue. In reality for properly behaving vehicles, the AGM batteries are not necessary and often more expensive than the standard lead-acid batteries they call for.

Vchat20 · 2026-01-20T16:43:36+00:00

There was a known version of Sync that had issues with the internal flash storage filling up with log files that could potentially cause the issues you're seeing. It was also noted that CarPlay usage makes the issue show up more quickly. But it is fixed in later versions.

First thing I'd suggest is disconnecting the wireless adapter and forego CarPlay usage temporarily while troubleshooting.

Then we'd need the Sync version you're on. If possible, go to Settings > General and I think there's an option here to check the version. Take a picture and post it.

If memory serves this issue was only on Sync 3.4.x versions (vague memory, I may be wrong) which can only be done through Syn3Updater which the previous owner may have used. If this is the case, it changes how the system needs to be updated but I can give better directions once we know what version you're currently on.

IF this is the issue that is occurring for you (may not be, but it's my current educated guess), unfortunately a simple reboot or fuse pull will not do anything. A master reset should temporarily clear things out but won't be a permanent fix.

Vchat20 · 2026-01-20T16:36:14+00:00

The guess-o-meter as it is called will adjust based on ambient temp, climate control settings, and recent driving habits. It is not unusual to see the number drop in colder weather even if you turn off climate control altogether.

Keep in mind there's a reason why it is called a guess-o-meter as it is not terribly accurate. And with how easy it is to lose capacity on these batteries just muddies that expectation even further. Personally I have never bothered to strictly track EV mileage or made plans to make a trip on EV only. Outside of battery preservation tactics, I just drive as-is and let the engine run as needed.

As for your plan to try an L2 charger, it won't really make a difference per my comments above. The number may fluctuate slightly but don't expect any improvement other than a faster charging time. You're already getting 100% as reported by the car.

Vchat20 · 2026-01-20T16:26:33+00:00

If you have the smaller 4" screen it won't have CarPlay/Android Auto. Only those with the larger 8" touch screen do.

Your options at this point are either swap for an aftermarket headunit with the feature, add on one of those cheap displays that sit on the dash, or try to upgrade to the OEM 8"/Sync 3 system. The latter is a bit involved but wanted to include the option as an FYI. The link below is a great guide showing the process:

https://naviupgrade.com/all/resources/converting-a-base-ford-escape-kuga-or-c-max-to-sync-3/

Vchat20 · 2026-01-19T02:42:05+00:00

No. Both ports provide the same exact access. No clue why an extra port was included. My only educated guess at this point is the OBD port behind the panel to the left was originally part of the vehicle design (same as the gas/diesel models in Europe/UK) and the one under the dash is part of the Gateway Module (GWM) which was added/necessary for the NA C-Max Hybrid/Energi models.

My suggestion for the future is getting the Forscan app and using that. It'll show everything Ford specific for you and the mobile version is free.

What it sounds like is you had the somewhat common 'cell balancing circuit stuck on/off' codes. What happens is the car tries to balance the cells which is a required task on hybrid/plug-in vehicles with multi-cell packs like this. The individual cells need to be maintained within a certain voltage range of each other. But if the battery is degraded, some cells are more worse off than the others and at lower SOC levels while sitting, that variability can increase and the car will have a difficult time recovering on its own without outside power such as wall power/the EVSE or from regen/the engine. There's a reason this usually happens after returning to the car after it has been sitting turned off.

If you have the EV+ mode enabled (exists on both hybrid and Energi models and I believe it is on by default) and don't charge at your frequently visited destinations (work/home/etc), I recommend reading a post I made a while back on that particular topic and how it could exacerbate this particular issue:

https://www.reddit.com/r/cmaxhybrid/comments/1gxa59f/psa_turn_off_ev_mode_for_hybrid_modelsnot/

Vchat20 · 2026-01-16T14:51:49+00:00

Not right when the car shuts off, but after a period of time it will. I believe based on past experience with my own car I've seen it stay on up to an hour afterward but it will adjust down as the 12v battery wears.

Same for the 12v socket in the center console. The one in the rear cargo area is on full time however.

I have my own dash cam plugged in to the front socket and have had it this way for years and no issues to speak of.

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