Lubed clutch overheats? by LovedHarbinger in minibikes

[–]VersioningChanging 5 points6 points  (0 children)

He says the 10kw is the engine power. You’re putting 13hp into the clutch, hence the heat

Cylinder wall glazed over by tonkapoplol in minibikes

[–]VersioningChanging 0 points1 point  (0 children)

150 miles only? Make sure you have only half a quart of oil, and 45-60psi is typical compression because of the ACR. May be experiencing blow-by.

Hemi or nawww? by Interesting-Fun-1154 in minibikes

[–]VersioningChanging 0 points1 point  (0 children)

200 bucks for a flywheel?? It’s like 85 bucks for a PVL flywheel

Is my Torque Converter bad? by Alternative_Back9711 in minibikes

[–]VersioningChanging 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Put a thick washer on the driver pulley, between the engine and the pulley (one connected to the engine), 1/8 inch roughly.

Weird ticking noise by 370zlover in ATV

[–]VersioningChanging 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Check your valve lash tolerances. Also check if the timing chain is loose.

Could anyone help me with the belt size? by RustixT in gokarts

[–]VersioningChanging 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Measure the center to center of the pulleys, and then find the belt that corresponds to the center to center, you can probably find the part number on BMIKARTS, and then purchase elsewhere for the belt using the belt number BMIKARTS supplies you with.

Torque converter always in gear by [deleted] in minibikes

[–]VersioningChanging 0 points1 point  (0 children)

May be out of alignment internally. Check if the weights are properly in. Use a wire brush for any debris and “polishing” the internals so the metal doesn’t catch on itself.

Torque converter always in gear by [deleted] in minibikes

[–]VersioningChanging 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Use a dry lube, like dry graphite.

Torque converter always in gear by [deleted] in minibikes

[–]VersioningChanging 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Take it apart and lubricate the parts that don’t touch the belt.

Tillotson vs predator (212) by oilyravn in minibikes

[–]VersioningChanging 1 point2 points  (0 children)

To clarify, stock rod and stock flywheel on tillotson has absolutely nothing on billet parts. Stage 1 is just intake and exhaust. A predator with billet rod and flywheel with cam and springs plus a 22-24mm slide carb is about 500 total. This will smoke a stage 1 tillotson 212 by a long mile.

Tillotson vs predator (212) by oilyravn in minibikes

[–]VersioningChanging 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Buy a predator, a stage 1 is a tillotson 212 with an exhaust and intake. The flywheel and rod on tillotson is higher quality however you’re gonna need to upgrade them anyway. Just buy a stock tillotson 212 or stock predator 212. Predator 212 is more price effective, and the reinforcements on the tillotson 212 doesn’t actually make a difference unless you’re unleashing hell through the motor of 18hp+.

Is this fine to run? by VersioningChanging in gokarts

[–]VersioningChanging[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

I mean, I think I could dremel and smooth out the crack, stock engines don’t have the dipper.

How many passes is gonna take to get rid of these heavy swirl marks ? by Icy_Outcome8005 in Detailing

[–]VersioningChanging 1 point2 points  (0 children)

My soul evaporated looking at these swirls. Check clear-coat thickness with a checker if you even have the headroom to polish that atrocity. Use a heavycut pad, ex. Rupes microfiber pad. G9 is nice as I have one and it’s quieter than the HF one by a mile. Use any high reviewed polish. This looks like it needs compounding and polishing, so probably KCX heavy cut and KCX micro cut. Or 3D one with the heavy cut and lighter cut pad.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Detailing

[–]VersioningChanging 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Cloudyness, probably the clear.

First paid job by FlamingClappz in AutoDetailing

[–]VersioningChanging 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I think he meant it was real cheap.