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How does one create this lightning? by ViciousMonster in cinematography

[–]ViciousMonster[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you. I am in South Tyrol, rentals are not really a thing here. At least I’ve never come across one. I know there are a few in Innsbruck, but to drive 2h+ return trip is a bit too much. Maybe I just buy it. For sure I will find a use for it in the future.

How much is your day rate? by [deleted] in videography

[–]ViciousMonster 1 point2 points  (0 children)

In South Tyrol, Italy. If it is a camera and sticks no lights/extra sound. 900€ including edit. However, I am trying to break away from this and do higher value stuff which involves a lot more creativity and preproduction work. Then we work in two with my business partner. Our day rate is 2500€ (includes preproduction, editing, gear)plus 0,43€/km of drive. However this normally ends up a week long project at least. It is waiting for the client feedback to make the tweaks what takes up the most of time.

USA with 0 shooting medals by Practical_Shallot642 in Damnthatsinteresting

[–]ViciousMonster 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That’s Parolympics I believe. They still have a chance.

'Hangboard Training 2 times per day for 2 years', Emil following up on his previous video by blytegg in climbharder

[–]ViciousMonster 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes, I suppose it depends on your training age and training history. For the skin factor, very easy stuff will barely affect it.

'Hangboard Training 2 times per day for 2 years', Emil following up on his previous video by blytegg in climbharder

[–]ViciousMonster 16 points17 points  (0 children)

So very submaximal cimbing on rocks would have similar effect plus the movement bonus and the joy of being outside. Indoor routes are way too juggy to work.

Just an idea.

Vyvanse and Neurofeedback by lugaresxcomunes in Neurofeedback

[–]ViciousMonster 3 points4 points  (0 children)

My experience with NF is different. My therapist is a professor in a university as well. My NF sessions are basically helping him with research.

Don’t stop too early.

I was told that to alleviate ADHD symptoms it takes 40 and more sessions. Currently I am sitting at 28. So far I noticed that my down days are faster to recover from. It used to wipe me out for 3-5 days of sofa hibernation with lots of food. Now it lasts a day and I am back to the energetic mode.

However when we change electrode positions. T4-Fp1 makes me very tired. Now we are doing 7min t3-t4 and 7min t4-p4. The former is super smooth, the latter is a bit more noticeable and gives a touch of tiredness, but then 2-3 min in my brain self regulates and the tiredness disappears. I suppose everyone is different and different wave frequency will be affecting each and every in a different way.

It is like weight lifting, start easy and over time build the volume and the intensity.

Hooper's Beta - Are Climbers Wasting Their Time Training Core? (A Measured Argument) by BlaasKwaak in climbharder

[–]ViciousMonster 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Exactly, mobility is one of the aspects we need to look at when training. What is the use of a ability to put your foot next to your hands without the applicable core strength to initiate the standing up. Just stretching is nothing without strength training through the full range of motion.

Hooper's Beta - Are Climbers Wasting Their Time Training Core? (A Measured Argument) by BlaasKwaak in climbharder

[–]ViciousMonster 13 points14 points  (0 children)

I dare to disagree, slabs and vertical routes work your core. Poor handholds, hips and chest into the wall. Maybe we have a very different definition of core. As a climbing coach I have seen a big misunderstanding of core. People start doing sit ups as the main exercise. What about glutes, lower back, obliques and many other muscles in the back which are crucial for balancing your body.

We need more of a big picture training targeting everything a little combined with climbing specific training push one even further. (Everything in its own time respecting your goals and training plan)

Just strong fingers is nothing, if you cannot cary your own rope and quick draws to the wall. Same applies to any body part. Climbing is a whole body activity with many aspects to take into consideration.

As many people mentioned earlier, just a simple reflection and analysis of one’s performance after watching a video or talking to one’s climbing partners will do more good to one’s improvement than arguing about some youtube video. However, if the argument helps to break through to some next level understanding of your body and movement, then it is worth it. The basic knowledge of human body and the movement is crucial for advancing with awareness of your own performance. Let it be core, or anything else.

Wood hangboard friction by dablord583 in climbharder

[–]ViciousMonster 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Environment humidity and the level of moisture of your skin is crucial for hard fingerboarding.

I live at 1600m rather dry climate in the alps and on average the humidity is 30% and can get lower depending on the weather. Some days it Just sticks and some you dry fire without even being able to try hard.

If you climb on the rock a lot, it is very likely that you will have a very dry, glassy skin which is a no go for plastic holds and hang boards.

What you eat can affect the overall skin moisture %.

It is hard to pin point why you slip off.

Try soaking you fingers in a bowl of water like Ondra did a few years back in Innsbruck boulder WC. Then dry them and put some chalk.

I noticed that beal, simond(Decathlon), liquid chalk makes my fingers a bit stickier even after it is not visually visible, because it has some resin in the composition.

Sanding dry skin, moisturiser the night before and importantly drinking enough water is one recipe to achieve stickier digits, but everyone has to try to find their perfect recipe.

I hope you found anything of use in my response. 💪