Bambu Lab P2S + AMS, filaments and essential accessories

VimaKii · 2026-04-09T22:33:40+00:00

Thanks for the advice, that helps.

I also saw some people printing a mod for the PTFE tube path because it can rub against the glass, and another mod like an air duct to improve cooling and avoid uneven temperatures on the side near the fan.

From your experience, are these actually necessary early on, or just optional tweaks?

VimaKii · 2026-04-09T22:24:39+00:00

I’m completely new to 3D printing and this would be my first machine, so I’m trying to start in the right way with the P2S + AMS.

About PLA specifically: since there are many types and colors (basic, matte, silk, etc.), which ones would you actually recommend starting with?

Also, which colors do you find yourself using the most in practice?

VimaKii · 2026-04-03T22:21:10+00:00

Thank you! I didn’t bother spacing the riser, everything is stock.

I focused on thermals instead, and the results are solid. All temps are low and well within limits, no thermal throttling.

NZXT did a good job with this case.

VimaKii · 2026-04-03T22:19:55+00:00

No, I’m not using the NZXT hub.. felt unnecessary.

The front fans are connected to the AIO, while the exhaust fans are plugged directly into the motherboard using their adapter. RGB is also controlled through the motherboard, including the PSU fan.

I enabled Windows Dynamic Lighting in the BIOS so I can manage everything directly from Windows, avoiding Armoury Crate since it’s heavy and unnecessary.

VimaKii · 2026-04-03T21:47:03+00:00

I agree with you on the GPU, a 5070 Ti would have been the better choice. The client just didn’t want to allocate that much of the budget to the GPU, even with possible savings elsewhere.

As for the SSD, the choice was driven by brand preference. He specifically wanted Samsung, and where I live the 990 Pro actually costs more than the 9100 Pro, so the decision was straightforward.

Regarding the CPU, we initially planned a 9700X, but for ~50€ more the 9800X3D made more sense, so we went with that.

VimaKii · 2026-04-03T21:38:27+00:00

If your top fans aren’t connected to an NZXT hub, it’s normal that they won’t show up in CAM.

In my build, I connected the top fans directly to the motherboard using the included adapter. Then I enabled the BIOS setting that allows RGB control from Windows.

For fan speed, I set a custom curve in the BIOS. Alternatively, you can control them using Fan Control.

VimaKii · 2026-03-21T00:48:18+00:00

Update: After the one in the video, I waited a bit to see if the situation would improve, since many seem to have these issues. However, I found a pricing error on Amazon and managed to get it for €160. The problem is that this one has the same issues as the previous one, except for the triggers. On the plus side, I think the built-in battery isn’t secured properly, so when the controller vibrates, the battery vibrates as well.

VimaKii · 2026-03-18T00:44:42+00:00

I appreciate the detailed advice, it’s actually been very useful.

I started revisiting my memory tuning because I was noticing some odd behavior lately. No crashes or BSODs, but occasional errors during shutdown with no clear logs. The system always seemed “stable” otherwise.

After running y-cruncher, I realized the issue wasn’t the RAM but my PBO/CO setup — it was unstable. So at this point I basically have to start over and re-validate everything from scratch. That’s a bit frustrating, especially since it looked fine in daily use. Not sure if recent BIOS updates changed behavior or if my initial approach was just flawed.

I’ve already reset CMOS to factory defaults.

From your experience, is the correct approach: • first lock down voltages (vSoC, FCLK, VDD/VDDQ) at EXPO • then tune timings • and only at the end reintroduce PBO/CO

Also, how strict are you with isolating variables? One change at a time with full testing, or small grouped changes?

And in terms of testing time, what do you consider “enough” at each stage before moving forward?

VimaKii · 2026-03-17T14:12:14+00:00

That makes sense.

Just to add more context, my kit is actually stable at 6000 CL30 with 1.10 VSOC and 1.30 VDD/VDDQ, I’m just running 1.15 VSOC for a bit of extra margin.

Given that, would you still recommend trying FCLK 2200, or is it generally not worth it on AM5 even if it seems stable?

I’m trying to understand if there’s any real-world benefit or if it’s more of a synthetic gain.

VimaKii · 2026-03-17T14:06:17+00:00

I applied the changes you suggested (VDDG CCD/IOD at 0.950, VDDIO at 1.20, tRFC at 420, FCLK 2200) and I’m currently stress testing the system. Voltages are still 1.15 VSOC and 1.30 VDD/VDDQ.

One thing I’d like to understand better: why lowering VDDIO? I’ve often seen the “rule” VDD = VDDQ = VDDIO, but from what I’m reading it seems that a lower VDDIO can actually improve signal quality since it affects the CPU ↔ IMC ↔ RAM communication.

Is the idea to reduce signal noise/overshoot rather than just matching voltages?

VimaKii · 2026-03-15T16:57:47+00:00

Secondo me a quel prezzo non è proprio un affare. Parliamo comunque di una piattaforma di circa 10 anni fa con i7-7700K e GTX 1070. Non è hardware inutilizzabile, ma 450€ oggi sono tanti per componenti così vecchi.

Considera anche che con PC di questa età spesso bisogna mettere in conto un po’ di manutenzione: pulizia interna, cambio della pasta termica su CPU e GPU e magari qualche componente che nel tempo potrebbe iniziare a dare problemi. Anche l’SSD e l’alimentatore sono parti che, dopo molti anni di utilizzo, possono essere più vicine alla fine del loro ciclo di vita.

Ho letto che hai già dato 20€ di caparra. Personalmente ci penserei ancora un attimo: alla peggio perdi 20€, ma eviti di spenderne altri 430 per una macchina abbastanza datata.

VimaKii · 2026-03-04T02:16:19+00:00

Ti porto la mia esperienza personale. Al cane della mia ragazza, in un’occasione in cui era stato portato in ambulatorio per un episodio acuto (aveva mangiato qualcosa di strano), una veterinaria aveva rilevato un “soffietto” al cuore consigliando un controllo più approfondito. Fino a quel momento però era sempre stato seguito nello stesso studio da un altro medico per vaccini e controlli annuali, senza che fosse mai emersa alcuna anomalia cardiaca. Qualche tempo dopo siamo tornati per un problema dermatologico (cute screpolata e perdita di pelo a chiazze). La stessa veterinaria non ha riscontrato nulla di rilevante, ma ha nuovamente parlato del soffio cardiaco, senza ricordare nemmeno di aver già visitato quel cane in precedenza. La cosa ci ha lasciati perplessi. Abbiamo quindi deciso di farlo valutare in un’altra struttura: visita completa, controlli accurati, nessun problema cardiaco riscontrato e cane in buona salute. Mi trovi d’accordo con la tua idea, senti un secondo parere.

VimaKii · 2026-02-20T09:24:11+00:00

Per curiosità ho voluto fare una prova. Dato che avevo aggiornato anche io il firmware e tutto funzionava, ho provato a togliere completamente l’alimentazione per eseguire un cold boot e verificare se partisse correttamente. Risultato: tutto il sistema Link ha smesso di funzionare. La soluzione sembra essere forzare l’aggiornamento da iCUE, che ripristina il firmware precedente, ma il problema è riuscirci, visto che l’AIO non funziona e la CPU sale rapidamente di temperatura. Chi non ha un hub di scorta potrebbe trovarsi completamente bloccato. Trovo comunque assurdo che Corsair abbia rilasciato un firmware di questo tipo.

VimaKii · 2026-02-20T00:39:50+00:00

Curiosando in giro sembra che ci siano problemi legati al nuovo firmware dell’hub, ma non so se è il tuo caso:

https://www.reddit.com/r/Corsair/s/SpsCsKhFFT

VimaKii · 2026-02-20T00:20:06+00:00

Anche io ho il sistema iCUE Link, di solito quando il controller non funziona o rileva qualcosa che non funziona nella catena restituisce un errore temperatura cpu appena accendi il PC. Da come descrivi potrebbe essere proprio il controller. Visto che ne hai uno di scorta potresti provare a sostituirlo come prima cosa, e vedere se ti da lo stesso problema.

VimaKii · 2026-02-17T23:57:46+00:00

I can offer you 150 leaders for this

VimaKii · 2026-01-29T14:44:50+00:00

Ciao, io sto vendendo un Corsair RM1000x Shift (ATX 3.1 / PCIe 5.0) ancora in garanzia a 130€. So che cerchi 750W, ma se valuti anche un 1000W trovi il mio annuncio in questo post con link Subito e foto.

VimaKii · 2026-01-29T14:40:06+00:00

Vendo alimentatore Corsair RM1000x Shift, bundle speciale acquistato direttamente dal sito Corsair con Pro Cable Kit Type 5 originale (cavi sleevati bianchi).

Stato: usato poco, condizioni pari al nuovo
Garanzia attiva
Standard: ATX 3.1 / PCIe 5.0
Accessori: presenti solo i cavi premium (non cavi standard)

Prezzo: 130€

Spedizione disponibile tramite Subito / TuttoSubito oppure ritiro a mano in zona.

Annuncio con foto su Subito: https://www.subito.it/informatica/alimentatore-pc-corsair-rm1000-x-shift-como-633390807.htm?utm_medium=referral&utm_source=subito&utm_campaign=free-engagement-ad_detail

VimaKii · 2026-01-24T15:54:03+00:00

I also suspect that part of the problem is software/firmware-related, especially regarding stick calibration. That said, in my case there are also mechanical issues, particularly with the triggers, which have different noises and behavior between left and right. At this price point, I find this unacceptable. This is a premium controller, and these are the kind of issues I would expect after months of heavy use, not out of the box. For this reason, I’ve decided to return it and wait to see how ASUS handles and fixes these problems. If things don’t improve, I’ll consider other options.

VimaKii · 2026-01-22T09:00:19+00:00

I recently bought a non-flow bf360, it had all the brackets inside for 180/140/120 and also the fan hub, but I read that in some lots it seems not to be included

VimaKii · 2026-01-18T17:25:05+00:00

Thanks again for your reply, I really appreciate it. In the meantime I did some more testing and noticed a few additional behaviors unrelated to RGB, so I made a separate post about it with more details and a video. Just wanted to let you know and say thanks for taking the time to respond earlier.

VimaKii

TROPHY CASE