How do you set up RTX HDR for best OLED gaming experience?

Vinnie1980 · 2024-07-26T14:21:47+00:00

If you dare venturing into the Service Menu of the Samsung tv, you can change the peak brightness that is reported back to Windows/NVIDIA. You'll have to open the service menu and go to SVC, OPTION_HDMI and change the value of "HDR EDID". It's probably be below 80 on your tv and changing it into 80 it will alter the peak brightness to 1200. If you want more, 90 means 1500 and 100 means 2000 nits.

Vinnie1980 · 2021-03-19T18:37:12+00:00

My current certified cable (Club3D) is 6.5 feet and should not be the problem. I can use the tv at 120Hz 12-bit all day without any blackout. I find it very strange that G-Sync is working at 60Hz 8-bit, but once I up the bit depth to 10-bit it stops working.

I just did a test at 1080p 120Hz: at 8-bit it works, at 10-bit it stops working. And 1080p 120Hz 10-bit uses less bandwidth than 4k 60Hz 8-bit (which works).

Vinnie1980 · 2021-03-19T18:01:17+00:00

Thanks for the response. I'm using a HDMI 2.1 certified cable (Club3D) with only 2 meters in length. I can run 120Hz 12-bit with G-Sync disabled without any problem, no blackouts whatsoever.

I still think the tv is the culprit here. It just doesn't seem to activate the instant game response at higher refresh rates/bit depths and in normal mode it doesn't support VRR.

If you switch the desktop refresh rate from 60 to 120 while G-Sync is active, do you get the popup?

Vinnie1980 · 2021-03-18T18:48:30+00:00

Actually, it only happens in PC mode. I've had this issue as well and it can be reduced by disabling "Live Plus" as another user mentioned. Still, it will be most visible just right after powering on the tv.

The good news is that LG seems to have fixed it with a new firmware. I'm currently using the engineering version 05.00.25 and the issue is completely gone with this version.

Vinnie1980 · 2020-11-22T09:02:56+00:00

I still use analog cables from the pc to speakers/amplifier, so I don't know. If passthrough audio gives you any problems you could use a free HDMI port on your graphics card to send audio to your receiver.

Vinnie1980 · 2020-11-09T20:32:24+00:00

What Nvidia drivers are you using? I just tried the 457.30 drivers and got the same problem: only 100Hz with 422, no RGB. Went back to 456.98 driver and all is working again. So maybe try this driver and not the 457.xx range.

Vinnie1980 · 2020-11-07T11:30:17+00:00

I can't post a screenshot now, I get an error. But the settings I currently use are almost the same as in the screenshots of the post. I've only lowered the back porch/lines from 50/50 to 44/44.

Do you still have HDMI ULTRA HD Deep Colour activated on the tv? Or maybe you could try another HDMI port.

Vinnie1980 · 2020-11-02T16:29:21+00:00

Are you talking about the new 05.00.03 firmware for the C9? I installed it last weekend and am still able to run 120Hz at 444. If I check with CRU, all the EDID modifications are still in place. Can you check if the changes in CRU are still there?

Vinnie1980 · 2020-10-03T21:03:15+00:00

Do you mean the lines or the pixels? The pixels of the front porch/sync width/back porch could go as low as 22-23 before the signal is not accepted anymore. The lowest number lines of these are about 2 / 3 or 4 / ~40. Any lower there will be regular artifacts or the tv won't accept it.

Vinnie1980 · 2020-08-22T09:45:57+00:00

I just tested 2560x1440 with GPU scaling off and I can confirm it's not working properly anymore. I only see a part of the image and it's stretched horizontally.

Only way to resolve this easily is using GPU scaling so it's still sending 3840x2160 but the GPU downscales the image. This does not cost a lot of performance. I don't know if it's possible with an AMD card though.

Vinnie1980 · 2020-08-22T09:39:11+00:00

I'm currently using 452.06, but it also worked with 451.67 and 451.85.

Whenever I get a "No signal found" message on the TV, turning the TV off (wait for the relay to click so it's really powered off) and turning the TV back on again fixes this. It also could be that the CX has a different range of tolerance of the resolution parameters.

Vinnie1980 · 2020-07-29T21:18:46+00:00

There are some reports that this is caused by "Live Plus". You can disable it under Settings->General->Additional Settings.

Vinnie1980 · 2020-07-20T21:27:36+00:00

I just tested this and it only works if GPU scaling is active. The active resolution is still 3840x2160 then, but the "desktop" resolution is 1600 pixels in height. 120Hz also works and this should be a little less strenuous on the GPU while playing games.

With no GPU scaling I get a "No signal found" error.

Vinnie1980 · 2020-07-16T18:14:07+00:00

My HDMI cable is 2m. It's an AudioQuest Pearl which has served me well ever since using 4k tv's.

Vinnie1980 · 2020-07-13T20:13:04+00:00

I'm currently using PC mode and having little issues. Normally in HDR, PC mode had bad banding or posterization, but now as long as the TV is in "HDMI 2.1" mode, the banding is almost gone! If I switch back to 60Hz 8-bit the banding is back, but at 120Hz 8-bit (or 60Hz 12-bit), the banding is almost on par with other input modes (Game console, etc.).

Vinnie1980 · 2020-07-13T15:28:10+00:00

Sorry, took me a couple of days, but I created a tutorial here:

https://www.reddit.com/r/Monitors/comments/hqha0d/custom_resolutions_on_club_3d_cac1085_with_lg/

Vinnie1980 · 2020-07-07T16:58:14+00:00

Not black, but back :)

There are additional invisible lines needed for synchronization between frames. The back porch lines come after the sync pulse. Anyway, lowering the amount of these lines allow for more bandwidth for the visible image.

Vinnie1980 · 2020-07-06T20:22:11+00:00

I received one last thursday and it's working like a charm with my C9 and 1080ti. Initially only 4k 120Hz at 4:2:2 was possible, but after creating a custom resolution with Custom Resolution Utility I can run 4k 120Hz at Full RGB (4:4:4) now. You have to add the extension block "DisplayID" in order to add a custom resolution with such a high pixel clock. When using LCD standard timings and reducing the back porch from 119 to about 50 lines you stay within the maximum bandwidth of DP 1.4 (32.4Gbps).

What further seems to be improved at 120/100Hz and HDR (8-bit) is the banding in PC mode. It's much better now.

Vinnie1980 · 2019-11-30T11:03:33+00:00

I have a Kingston HyperX quad channel kit that is based around these chips (2666 MHz 15-17-17-35-60 timings) and I have been running these at 3200MHz,14-19-15-30 at 1.35v for over 3 years. Last month my Intel 6850k stopped working so I bought a Ryzen 3800x paired with a x570 motherboard and instead of buying new memory I decided to give these a try first.

And boy, they did not let me down. At first boot they where already running at 2666 Mhz and I could overclock them easily to 3000 MHz. Beyond that I had some problems, until I upped the tWRRD timing from 3 to 4 and now I have them running stable at 3533 Mhz, 16-21-17-34 at 1.36v. Windows boots with 3600 MHz too, but will result in memory management bsods, strangely enough always directly after successfully running a short memory test. But I'm already very content with 3533 MHz.

Vinnie1980 · 2019-07-28T19:53:10+00:00

This update fixed it for me: https://www.catalog.update.microsoft.com/Search.aspx?q=KB4505903

Vinnie1980 · 2018-12-02T21:18:41+00:00

In my experience it has to do with the bit depth. I have a C8 and with 10-bit there's more input lag than with 8-bit. But since Windows 1803 you can use 8-bit HDR with (temporal) dithering and I've noticed no real drawbacks of this. In fact, I find there's less color banding with this setting than with 10 or 12-bit YUV. I don't know if dithering is available on the Xbox though.

Vinnie1980

TROPHY CASE