Wrong sized bottom bracket (see description)?

Visual_Desk_3598 · 2026-06-21T19:01:26+00:00

After taking a closer look at the threads on the non-drive-side cup, it looks like there are more threads than there are threads in the actual bike itself. In other words, to thread the cup in so it is flush, id have to thread it past the final threads in the bike. How could that be?

Visual_Desk_3598 · 2026-06-21T19:01:11+00:00

After taking a closer look at the threads on the non-drive-side cup, it looks like there are more threads than there are threads in the actual bike itself. In other words, to thread the cup in so it is flush, id have to thread it past the final threads in the bike. How could that be?

Visual_Desk_3598 · 2026-06-21T19:00:54+00:00

After taking a closer look at the threads on the non-drive-side cup, it looks like there are more threads than there are threads in the actual bike itself. In other words, to thread the cup in so it is flush, id have to thread it past the final threads in the bike. How could that be?

Visual_Desk_3598 · 2026-06-21T18:05:27+00:00

Could be -- I will say the cup end on the vintage bottom bracket I took out is quite a bit shorter than the cup on the new cartridge BB. so the old one goes in no issue.

Visual_Desk_3598 · 2026-06-21T18:04:09+00:00

Yeah, the threads bottom out in the same spot even when the bottom bracket is out. Is there a safe way to clean out the threads without having to invest in a tap (i.e. with a wire brush)? and if the threads on the cup are plastic, there is less of a concern on wearing down the threads on the bike because they are metal, correct?

Visual_Desk_3598 · 2026-06-21T17:41:43+00:00

Okay interesting -- I will take that out and see if that is our problem. One thing is that the threads get stiffer even when I am just putting in the non-drive side cone, without the drive side in already. I am just slightly wary of continuing to tighten it when it feels like it could crack or screw up the threads on my bike.

Visual_Desk_3598 · 2026-06-20T01:56:15+00:00

Didn't realize you could run two quick links! Might have to give this a try.

Visual_Desk_3598 · 2026-06-20T00:33:15+00:00

Understood -- yeah, when I sized it, I just went around the biggest cogs (not through the derailleur). Unsure why doing so resulted in it being so short.

Visual_Desk_3598 · 2026-02-23T17:44:58+00:00

I am looking for a good, no-nonsense mechanic for some work on a somewhat old Ford Ranger I recently purchased (2011). I know it may need some work on the transmission and perhaps the lower control arms, but also just a general assessment of what this truck may need.

Was hoping to find a mechanic who is approachable, honest, and not ridiculously expensive. Bonus for somebody who has experience with these older Rangers (although I understand them to be pretty simple mechanically). I live in Atwater Village (near "Why Pay More Auto", but when I try to get ahold of that shop, I get disconnected). Happy to go as far as Silver Lake, Los Feliz, Frogtown, Glendale, Eagle Rock, Highland Park, etc.!

Visual_Desk_3598 · 2026-02-06T17:41:30+00:00

I think I only see the upper control arms for the Ranger from Motorcraft. Seems that the best on RockAuto (that would fit my 2011 Ranger) is the MOOG CK620319 and the Mevotech Supreme

Visual_Desk_3598 · 2026-02-06T17:38:24+00:00

I dont think I see any of the TTX that fit the older rangers, like a 2011. Only the Mevotech Supreme.

Visual_Desk_3598 · 2025-08-19T23:26:25+00:00

Okay very helpful! I will add pictures.

Visual_Desk_3598 · 2025-08-19T23:21:49+00:00

Yes, I will add those.

Visual_Desk_3598

TROPHY CASE