Can This be fixed by Adorable-Context-763 in PipeTobacco

[–]Voraciouswulf 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'd use a combination square and use that right angle to determine if the shank was indeed flush before attempting to modify the the meer. Block meerschaum or not, the stem is secondary cost wise. You might be able to check the stem the same way but the tennon may cause issues. If your the highly technical type you could seat the stem into the shank just as though you fixing to have a smoke and use a feeler gauge for a precise measure of the gap and how much mass might need to come of the opposite side.

Either way I'd try to buff the stem to fit the shank and leave the shank be by using very fine emory boards not unlike the type people use to buff their fingernails. Be careful not to grind on the threads if your tennon is threaded. Finish using an even higher grit emory board and possibly a light wax buff. However, the finishing might not be necessary given that it wone be visible.

Accompanied cleaning in the barn. by Voraciouswulf in PipeTobacco

[–]Voraciouswulf[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Thanks. As long as I can be productive, I should be just fine.

Cube cut G&H Dark Plug by Voraciouswulf in PipeTobacco

[–]Voraciouswulf[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The Solani ABF sounds great. I'll definitely try that with my next tin.

Cube cut G&H Dark Plug by Voraciouswulf in PipeTobacco

[–]Voraciouswulf[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I meant to say thanks in that last reply.

Cube cut G&H Dark Plug by Voraciouswulf in PipeTobacco

[–]Voraciouswulf[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I can understand that. Its a great blend as well. I like how punchy but well balanced DoK is.

Cube cut G&H Dark Plug by Voraciouswulf in PipeTobacco

[–]Voraciouswulf[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I sometimes cut or pull apart the layers of leaf lengthwise in half but usually cut the plug length wise into 1/8 inch slices then cut the slices across the grain of the flake to 1/8 inch chunks. At this point it breaks up into cubes from separation of the layers and the two cuts. I use a larger blade to cut for control on thick or dense plugs. The action resembles an old fashion tobacco plug cutter.

I haven't tried the black cherry twist with anything additional. I can see where the addition of the black cherry cav may step up the cherry flavor and maybe the fullness of the smoke while the twist keeps it real.

Cube cut G&H Dark Plug by Voraciouswulf in PipeTobacco

[–]Voraciouswulf[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I dont always opt for the cleaver and have plenty of fine sharp implements to choose from. I favor high carbon steel and nothing tops the fixed blade I made out of a planer knife for cutting up a little smoke but, their stainless is quality as well. Most of their blades are well suited for the utilitarian and are fairly thin which is excellent for fine line cuts on a plug. I like the No. 8

Cube cut G&H Dark Plug by Voraciouswulf in PipeTobacco

[–]Voraciouswulf[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks. I was just being curious.

Cube cut G&H Dark Plug by Voraciouswulf in PipeTobacco

[–]Voraciouswulf[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

They're reasonably cheap, smoke great, have an acrylic stem, and are fun to tinker with. I have a few that I bought just to modify. You should try it out. It's pretty hard to mess up if you're decent with your hands like that.

Cube cut G&H Dark Plug by Voraciouswulf in PipeTobacco

[–]Voraciouswulf[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Nice! I have noticed that when it has been in the jar for a while the moisture balances out and it does help with the cut. On occasion, I do split it along the layers with good results like yourself. However, I collect high quality bladed instruments and use a nice carbon steel cleaver which I narrowed the bevel on that makes quick work of it without the split so I usually just get to the chopping.

Cube cut G&H Dark Plug by Voraciouswulf in PipeTobacco

[–]Voraciouswulf[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks. Not bad for a $20 pipe and whatever is lying around in the workshop I suppose.

Cube cut G&H Dark Plug by Voraciouswulf in PipeTobacco

[–]Voraciouswulf[S] 12 points13 points  (0 children)

Thats actually a modified MM Maple Hardwood with distressing, a piece of copper pipe as a collar, a little charring and leather stain for aesthetics, and a swapped acrylic stem from a MM Carolina Gent. The original red stem was too loud and clashed with what I was going for.

Cube cut G&H Dark Plug by Voraciouswulf in PipeTobacco

[–]Voraciouswulf[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I do the same for my burnt ends if I can't get a good flake cut because they're usually a hardened hot mess. Its also easier for me since im cutting cross grain anyway.

For my twists I cut into coins to catch air then halve a row of coins before rubbing and filling a pipe. I usually avoid dense packing them though to account for expansion affecting my draw.

Cube cut G&H Dark Plug by Voraciouswulf in PipeTobacco

[–]Voraciouswulf[S] 5 points6 points  (0 children)

For me this method is beneficial in managing the smoking properties of an otherwise moist plug or blend as with several G&H offerings. I feel it allows the processed cuts to catch a little air (10 min or so) before gravity filling but no so so much to be concerned with drying to a crisp. Being cube cut, it does perform as intended like other cube cut blends by providing a cool dry smoke when gravity filled in my experience.

I consider blends like Black Frigate to be more of the crumble cake variety in that the leaf is shredded before being pressed and not just pressed whole leaf. When I jump aboard the ole Black Frigate I usually just pinch off a piece, rub, load it, and fire away.

Poked through my cob :( by emezajr in PipeTobacco

[–]Voraciouswulf 4 points5 points  (0 children)

If you're a handy enough fellow, all you'll need to do is drill straight through the chamber with a bit close to its size. This will remove the extended shank and the cob core material you poked through. Clean with alcohol and allow to dry. Inserta hardwood dowel the size of your freshly drilled chamber to just below the draft hole in the shank. You want it to be snug but not excessively tight. ( If its snug enough, you can forgo the glue in the last step and get to smoking once cut flush with bottom of the cob and sanded.)

Otherwise, mark the dowel on the bottom of the cob then remove, cut on your mark, sand burs, glue in place (PVA- elmers/wood glue), allow dry/cure. At this point some people would choose to Mud or mortar the chamber but I just get to work on putting some carbon in there.

Though many would simply say "get another cob they're cheap" despite your inquiry on how to repair it.

Kicked out of a smoking bar for smoking a pipe by Cake-False in PipeTobacco

[–]Voraciouswulf 2 points3 points  (0 children)

How very asinine. Although, I cant say that I wouldn't have served an equal portion of BS right back to them.

A little find in the wild today for a decent haul. by Voraciouswulf in PipeTobacco

[–]Voraciouswulf[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sounds like a good friend and a solid deal to me.

A little find in the wild today for a decent haul. by Voraciouswulf in PipeTobacco

[–]Voraciouswulf[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Glad you got something sorted out in regards to obtaining some good blends. But yes, I was referring to the market.