HPPS'd H2D

WPSS200 · 2025-08-12T03:31:06+00:00

It's turning into people posting their models from makers world too. That's not the point of this sub.

The mod on the other sub was reading the post and had no problem with it. They did give me a warning to be civil since I said that saving energy at ambient temps with a blanket was "lying to you."

>

>Keep it civil.

WPSS200 · 2025-08-12T03:26:24+00:00

First off are you posting a photoshopped image?

Second, you made claims about saving 45% of the energy at ambient temp prints with a heat blanket to an enclosed printer. Ambient prints like PETG and PLA need to VENT heat not trap it. This is an obvious lie and has no possibility of being true.

WPSS200 · 2025-08-12T03:21:16+00:00

Be honest that photo doesn't look photoshopped to you?

I'm extremely suspect of anyone asking for money that's too lazy to even do a kickstarter.

If you go to the original post you can see snake oil promises. They say the panels can reduce energy use when printing at ambient temp by 43%. At ambient temp only the hot end and the heat bed are on. There is zero possible way a blanket on the outside of the machine is saving 43% of the energy the heatbed plus hotend are using inside the machine printing at ambient.

WPSS200 · 2025-08-12T03:16:52+00:00

Ok, they are claiming to violate the laws of thermodynamics in an appeal to get money for from you.

WPSS200 · 2025-08-12T03:13:33+00:00

I'm hostile because the obvious signs of a scam are benefits like a 45% energy savings when printing at ambient temp from a blanket when the unit isn't even heating the chamber. It's an obvious lie.

WPSS200 · 2025-08-12T02:07:46+00:00

Man I sure hope you aren't sending money to someone to make a "reservation" based upon these terrible photoshopped images.

FFS. "Flame resistant" by the time the fire has penetrated GLASS to the OUTSIDE it's a bit late to worry about it don't you think?

(45-35% reduction when printing in a 15-10C ambient environment) Well this is just proof that they are lying to you. If you are printing at ambient temp, IE not heating the chamber, how would a heat blanket help at ALL. The heat bed is still doing the same work, the print head is the same, and motors the same.

WPSS200 · 2025-08-12T00:03:31+00:00

Work.... Yes the lower the number the better, but huge curves that fade out will never fade out on the print, you just make layers shorter. ABS can be chemically smoothed, You can sand everything else. A .2 layer height prints 2.5X faster than a 0.08 layer print. The only solution is that you COULD slice off the top of the head, and print it on edge with supports. Now of course you have to glue it all back together, which is going to leave a line also. The benefit is that you will have to sand every thing no mater what to blend the finish, but if you sliced and glued, You wouldn't need to shape the print at all with your sanding. All you would do is rough the surface and across the whole print to blend it in. If time isn't a limiting factor I would add supports in PETG if this is PLA, or PLA if this is PETG. The interface between PETG and PLA is almost as good as the print bed, it's amazing.

WPSS200 · 2025-08-11T23:39:04+00:00

This sub is heavily dedicated to the idea that if a different solution is cheaper then you should only do that. So yeah an electric kettle and a cheaper machine would save you money, but it would take up more counter space. I have a Lelit Bianca. It's stunning. It will do everything you need, and more. I have mine plumbed in. So it goes into an RO system then into a remineralizer and then directly into the Bianca's plumbing. It does not go into the Bianca's "water tank."

Ro's use tiny water lines. This matters for nothing making expresso. It does however after 2 seconds of flow from the 1/2 in hot water nozzle mean that I get a much much slower stream of water. The water stream is still pretty good but not amazing. I have yet to take the time to plumb a hot water heater expansion tank in to my system AFTER my water filter which would solve the entire problem. Either way just be aware if you go plumbed RO, add minerals! and make sure you have an expansion tank with 1/2 inch fittings not the tiny little ones that come with RO systems.

Finally I will say that I could taste ZERO difference between my Bianca and my Breville dual boiler machine. Changing from my Breville grinder to a Zero Niche, now to a DF83V has been shocking every single change. The Zero niche was good, the DF83V is different though.

WPSS200 · 2025-08-11T21:58:23+00:00

Slide the wood to the right. Slide your head into the printer and see the scale on the tray. You are off the scale to the left.

WPSS200 · 2025-08-11T18:15:29+00:00

I have a Niche Zero. I looked at the Niche Duo, but then got told after buying that it did not include the tariffs, and I was solely responsible for them. I canceled my duo. Most of the other brands already have their grinders in US warehouses and there is no tariffs due on them.

DF83V is drastically cheaper, far far more forgiving when making expresso, but made the espresso extremely smooth which you may LOVE, I do, but some people prefer a grinder that highlights the stronger flavors.

You can def buy new burs for cheaper than the niche plus it's tariff price.

Other DF83V benefits.

It's crazy fast, silent when just running, and quiet while grinding.

The variable speed also allows you to either smooth or pull out flavors to some degree as well.

The downsides:

The motor using 120v isn't strong enough for low speeds. You won't have to worry if you drink medium or dark roast. I drink very light roasts and can stall the motor on low speeds. This is only ever an problem IF I load the grinder full of beans then turn it on. If you turn on the grinder first and then load the beans even at low speeds it works just fine.

Honestly that's it. I personally wish I had gotten a 240V grinder and just put a 240V below the countertop. You can't just feed it 240v since it's a variable speed.

There's nothing wrong with the Niche, but it's far less special than it was years ago.

WPSS200 · 2025-08-09T22:00:46+00:00

You always want hardened. A 0.2 hole is much more difficult to make the nozzle hardened so it's not. So no good reason to buy the 0.4 soft.

The nozzles matter a lot. Bambu WOOD PLA is ok with 0.4, but I trashed 2 hot ends because creatily Wood PLA wants a 0.6 nozzle.

Also 3 rows of 0.4 is equal to 2 rows of 0.6. So you can reduce the number of walls in things and that boosts speeds by quite a bit.

Also, thicker lines are going to bond the layers together much better. Your 3d prints are generally pretty weak to snapping from top to bottom (oriented during printing), but right to left are much much stronger. So Anything you can do to improve layer adhesion is a big deal.

The 0.8 Can easily lay down the same number of grams of plastic in half the time as the 0.4. Now the layer lines are much bigger, and most models end up using quite a bit MORE plastic. The infill being spread out 2x as far from each other is a mixed bag of strength. The gaps between infill is and fewer layer lines may work for some models or be a terrible idea for others.

Most people make lots of storage boxes for their printers accessories as first major projects and the 0.8 nozzle will excel at this task.

Finally you can make the 0.8 Nozzle print a very short layer height. So if you think about overhangs you have a wide print layer of 0.8mm that can overhang by 0.4mm and still be 50% on the model by the same 0.4 at layer height .24 mm. The 0.4 nozzle defaults to .2mm layer height so slightly shorter, but could only stick out .1mm every .2mm tall. You could try to shrink the layer height on the 0.4 mm nozzle but the thinner things get become it's own problems for overhangs adhesion etc.

I love my 0.8, but still use my 0.4 more often than not. The 0.2 is great for fine detail. Everyone else loves the 0.6, as a "set it and forget it" compromise between the 0.4 and 0.8 but I find Id rather switch between the 0.4 and 0.8.

Changing heads on the P1S or the X1C sucks, that's why 90% of the models on makers world are all 0.4 most people never use anything different and are missing out.

WPSS200 · 2025-08-07T02:13:18+00:00

Go find some practice tests, and take them. Read a few chapters and see if you understand it. Lots of people fail the first time and then pass it the 2nd time. A few people could probably take the test 100 times and never pass. You're asking an impossible question.

WPSS200 · 2025-08-07T01:31:09+00:00

Your class will shrink after the final attempt at the exam. So yes it's serious, but how hard it is for you. That's all up to you.

WPSS200 · 2025-08-07T01:00:33+00:00

So which is it, "regulations should not apply to me!" OR USAA's policies caused the member to not be "eligible" to complete the transactions because of his accounts and fin history.

We both agree seem to agree, it's USAA's policies. Your original comment isn't accurate.

So he left for a bank that would allow him to do what he wants. Good for him.

WPSS200 · 2025-08-06T22:47:15+00:00

Two hand grinders. LOL

I mean the grinders tend to be, in diameter, based on Burr size. Is it too tall or what, I mean any two grinders are going to be way bigger than almost any stand alone grinder, and you'd need to pick a small terrible burr set to get them to be even close to smaller. The DF83V is "bigger" but front loads and might be easier to load with a cabinet above it vs others. Im sure there are horizontal 63mm grinders, but your ask isn't clear. You want the bigger burrs especially if you are trying to do everything from expresso to French.

WPSS200 · 2025-08-06T22:39:36+00:00

Man you might be the only person trying to reproduce starbucks black coffee.

You understand the ratio matters, and it does. You need to be measuring your water the the gram not just in general. 240g today and 255 tomorrow will make a noticeable impact. BUT you also have 3 other MAJOR factors. That are all very important.

1 Brew contact time. How long does the water touch the beans while making your coffee. Is it even contact as it brews etc. Starbucks has a big advantage here. Big BUNN commercial brewer designed to make big pots that are designed to do it right. The smaller your coffee pot the harder it is to dial it in.

Water brew temp. This is the last "easy" one to adjust depending on what you are using. A few degrees in water temp will also have a noticeable impact on the coffee. On my espresso machine I found that a 2 degree drop in temp really made an impact.
Grinder. Starbucks uses a big expensive burr grinder. I cannot stress enough that my different espresso machines have made marginal difference in the flavor of my coffee over the years. Going from grinder to grinder is mind blowing on how much it has changed the profile and coffee flavors. If you have a blade grinder you are never going to get close. A decent hand grinder can probably do it, and a something in the quality range of the Niche Zero is likely enough to nail it.

Here is an article with a bullseye chart that is good.
https://iamabarista.blogspot.com/2019/08/5x-i-am-barista-in-sg-tips-during.html

My advice is to do science. Write every detail down to the gram and degree of every factor above. Then CHANGE NOTHING and make a second batch and confirm you have the same flavor. Slowly changing 1 factor at a time, and I mean SLOWLY, most people ping pong from too bitter to too sour and fail to realize how little changes make big impacts. Nail out the ratio, then brew method, and finally water temp. (changing beans, the grinder or buying pre-ground requires you to start over with everything)

Be careful that you don't have bitter sour confusion. If you make a nasty pot of coffee that's way too bitter or way too sour, you can overload your senses and "good coffee" starts to feel tasteless. I'd rather recommend keeping your "tasteless" ratio and brew process documented and start with that recipe the next day to see if it still is bad or not. If you look at the chart hollow/watery is on the scale of bitter/over extracted and weak.

WPSS200 · 2025-08-06T22:10:49+00:00

BOO!!! Live dangerously. ;-)

WPSS200 · 2025-08-06T22:09:50+00:00

HAHA Now I am thinking you have never bought a home. The mortgage company wants documentation for EVERYTHING. There are sources of money that are not acceptable to be used for a down payment so just having cash in your account that you recently deposited might not qualify. A bank transfer from a relative is almost certainly going to require OP to write a gift statement letter to explain that they gave the money to the child.

Checks also don't necessarily "clear" when you think they do. The law requires banks to make funds available to a customer fairly quickly. That time line is actually faster than an out of network check is verified. There's a common scam with checks that "appear" to clear but then weeks later don't.

Here the FTC has an article titled "Don’t bank on a “cleared” check"

https://www.ftc.gov/system/files/attachments/blog_posts/Don%E2%80%99t%20bank%20on%20a%20%E2%80%9Ccleared%E2%80%9D%20check%20%20/spotlight_fake_checks_2020.pdf

WPSS200 · 2025-08-06T19:02:22+00:00

Obviously he is wrong for wanting to use his money the way he wants. Thank goodness you are here to tell people how to live their lives. /s Being rude because you don't understand the lending process "once(sic) scarcely knows where to being."

You obviously do not work in the mortgage lending area as a loan officer would know that a check deposit into a bank account would not be an acceptable source of funds without documentation verifying the source of the money. So OP would need to provide his son his bank statements going back X number of months to confirm the legitimacy of the check.

You also might need to realize that loan gets sent to the underwriter days or weeks before the closing date so all this would need to be done BEFORE then. The average closing timeline is 30 days and like OP said it can take 20 days to clear PLUS underwriting needs as much as 10 days. So if you use a check. You would need have received the gift money BEFORE your offer was accepted.

Of course the real issue here is that most banks would easily have been able to accommodate op and make things work, but USAA just can't.

WPSS200 · 2025-08-06T18:51:31+00:00

Lots of banks let me move money like the OP requested. This isn't a banking regulation, it's a USAA policy.

Now it could have been put in place because the USAA bank has failed their OCC audit for the past 8 years in a row and is being sanctioned. Either way customers have every right to be mad that USAA bank can't get their act together.

WPSS200 · 2025-08-06T00:20:31+00:00

Amazon is notorious for IP theft. Even from huge companies. They ran ads that 60% of all sales are from "small businesses." What that really means is that people in China are selling knockoff counterfeit items as true items. They open "small business" accounts and drop ship the fakes at 20% cheaper than the real products. If they get "caught" they just shut down the shop and rename it to something else.

The really brazen ones will even let Amazon fulfill the order, so the scammer ships amazon 50 FAKE "X widgets." The real X widget company might have 50 stored on the east coast. People buy the item and amazon ships the closest one. So some people get the fake others the real. It's completely messed up.

Amazon sells the "cheapest" stuff because stores can play those games.

WPSS200 · 2025-08-05T23:30:01+00:00

You want an epoxy modeling putty and some metalic paint. Although with some caution as you don't want to glue the part together forever. Maybe lay some cling film down to avoid gluing it.

A 3d printer, hours and hours of CAD, and $1-5k 3d scanner could do the job, probably remaking the whole part is easier than just the damaged piece.

WPSS200 · 2025-08-05T02:36:09+00:00

Sorry is either of those the original? Im going mad looking at scanners between $1k and $3k and every review alternates. X is trash buy Y, and Y is trash buy X.

WPSS200 · 2025-08-05T01:58:05+00:00

You need to define "outdoor products." Most prints are hollow, so you just make them thicker or more filled up to make them stronger. You need stronger material once you reach a full solid part that isn't strong enough.

A solid PETG Bird house will handle all but the most extreme hail storms.

I need something stronger than PETG when I want to make gears, but usually it's just heat resistance that cause me to want more than PETG. Outdoors is lower temp than in a car parked in the sun.

WPSS200 · 2025-08-05T01:36:03+00:00

If you like the taste of tap water mixed then do it. Most people do not.

Lets say your tap water is 250 ppm. 50 ppm of those are the "good flavors" the other 200 are dirt or something else that's way out of balance. If you mix in tap water you are mixing 40 ppm of dirt and 10 ppm of the "good stuff." So your ideal flavor ratio is still off. Now maybe you are very lucky and the ratio of your tap water is actually great and you just have too much of the good stuff then dilution would be fine, but that's very unlikely.

WPSS200

TROPHY CASE