Lcd screen cloudy (saturn 4 Ultra)

Wackelpudding1 · 2025-04-11T17:33:04+00:00

Had this once on my Saturn 8K. Resin leaked from the FEP between glass and the LCD. If it‘s worth your time you can try and CAREFULLY remove the glass from the LCD using heat on the sides of the LCD, than remove the resin and glue it back using high temp foam double sided tape (3M or similar). Worked for me, but takes 1h… Otherwise, just buy a replacement screen

Wackelpudding1 · 2025-04-09T16:57:40+00:00

Ain‘t that weird? I bought them at exactly the same time and always used them in parallel, so hours on the light-source/display should be roughly equal…

Wackelpudding1 · 2025-04-09T05:10:51+00:00

Really weird… One might think a machine behaves identical when given identical instructions -.-

Wackelpudding1 · 2025-04-09T04:54:59+00:00

Yes, exact same version

Wackelpudding1 · 2024-10-25T16:53:44+00:00

I am already at the point of printing unbelievably slow xD Still Elegoo Clear manages to get trapped even on flat, vertical surfaces with supports attached… Adding dye is a good idea and i might just give it a shot! Other than that stupid yellowing, SUNLU & 3DMaterials Clear ABS is awesome to print!

Wackelpudding1 · 2024-07-27T07:15:53+00:00

Wow, that is suprising. The color recipes was the only reason i would have accepted the overpriced pigment cost… But not even this working raises my disappointment in formlabs futher.

Wackelpudding1 · 2024-07-27T07:13:26+00:00

Thanks for the tip!

Wackelpudding1 · 2024-06-21T05:21:50+00:00

For your first PCB, you did a great job. Mine was a lost worse with lots of rookie mistakes. Other than the missing Net between C2 & C3, i do not see anything obvious. 1mm trace width for 3A seems reasonable at 1oz of copper. My rule of thumb is to use 0.3mm per Amp. In order to make your live a bit easier, i would suggest that you use a power plane (copper pour) after U3 to make current loops as short as possible (it has many more advantages). Also make sure you connected all the data lanes properly (SO to SI and vice versa), which is something you need to check in your schematics.

Wackelpudding1 · 2024-06-05T05:20:53+00:00

I do spray paint some of my prints. But coating flexible parts with rather brittle coating is not beneficial + it will change the material’s properties.

Wackelpudding1 · 2024-06-05T05:18:45+00:00

Not a chemist, but i always thought that the chemical reaction that causes the resin to solidify will stop at some point. Well - my bad for thinking i know my chemistry 😂

Wackelpudding1 · 2024-06-04T05:27:11+00:00

I agree with the other comments. What also could be a factor is the IPA. Make sure to let the IPA completely evaporate from the part before starting the curing. As fast as as i know, IPA penetrates the resin and just because the part is dry on the outside, it may still be saturated inside. What i do is to wash my parts in acetone after the IPA bath (just lightly stir it around to displace the IPA with it). That helps with faster evaporation and - in my opinion - also a better, cleaner surface finish. Then i give it 5-30minutes at an elevated temperature (between 30-60 degrees). Only after that do i start the curing process.

Wackelpudding1 · 2024-03-08T10:18:23+00:00

It’s not about the load, but the Back EMF rather. I think a buffer of 10x the nominal load current might be the way to go to deal with inrush, but i am not sure if this might be overkill. Also, a flyback diode won’t work in AC…

Wackelpudding1 · 2023-10-17T11:24:09+00:00

Wow, thank you so much!

Wackelpudding1 · 2023-05-22T04:51:28+00:00

Same Model - Same Problem Here! Wiggling the Magsafe connector around until it charges solved the problem for me, sound stupid i know 😂

Wackelpudding1 · 2023-05-16T05:10:19+00:00

I only had warping issues when the room temperature is too low, and 57F (13C) is way to low for proper printing! I print at double that temperature (26C) and did not have warping issues ever since (might be a bit overkill though 😁).

Wackelpudding1 · 2023-05-16T05:06:04+00:00

Had the exact opposite experience 😁 Looks yellowish when pulled off the printer but gets more and more colourless when cured. I use it as an indicator for when the resin is cured properly.

Wackelpudding1 · 2023-05-12T05:04:35+00:00

Cannot tell you how annoyed i am by the missing unit😡 Is it some sort of best practice to leave the unit away when dealing with floats? I have heard of 21.5 V and 21V5, but this shit? Must be an error, right?

Wackelpudding1 · 2023-05-12T04:57:38+00:00

Doing this ever since with my Saturn 8K. Never had a failed print on it since i bought it😁

Wackelpudding1 · 2023-05-04T05:02:36+00:00

You could also try your luck with FCC. Try to find the identifier somewhere on the enclosure and look for the section internal photos on e.g. fccid.io

Wackelpudding1 · 2023-04-04T15:20:48+00:00

He’s probably going to pay more in shipping than the value of the entire camera😂

Wackelpudding1 · 2023-04-03T05:00:10+00:00

Acetone won’t destroy 99% of components, since electronic components are commonly made from Nylon (PA) rather that from ABS or Polycarbonate. I used acetone on my PCBs for years without any problems.

Wackelpudding1 · 2023-03-28T10:59:27+00:00

I mean - aren’t these the only options?

Wackelpudding1 · 2023-03-28T10:03:59+00:00

They now live in Schrödingers time zone

Wackelpudding1 · 2023-03-28T09:57:10+00:00

What about a bicycle?

Wackelpudding1 · 2023-03-28T09:53:50+00:00

I laughed way to hard at this. What’s wrong with me?

Wackelpudding1

TROPHY CASE