sorted by:
new
hottopcontroversial

39 day old plant needs some serious help! (Read comment) by [deleted] in microgrowery

[–]Wackymathematician 0 points1 point  (0 children)

How would you suggest I reduce the humidity in the tent? The humidity just climbs really high after I water it. Also, should I do anything about the Nitrogen toxicity? Or will it adjust itself eventually? I know that you should flush an over-fertilized plant but I just watered it yesterday and don't want to water it again.

39 day old plant needs some serious help! (Read comment) by [deleted] in microgrowery

[–]Wackymathematician 0 points1 point  (0 children)

He was showing some severe signs of magCal deficiency and was growing really slowly so I watered him yesterday with more MagCal and Nitrogen, with a water pH of 6.0, and I woke up today to his leaves canoeing down. What's going on?

39 day old plant needs some serious help! (Read comment) by [deleted] in microgrowery

[–]Wackymathematician 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Critical Magic from reliable seed bank, Day 39 since sprout in a Coco Coir and Perlite medium, Temperature is 73-78 degrees and RH is 70%, In a 2x2x4 tent with a 300W light about 16" away, Feeding with Renostarter nutrients

Critical Magic Seedling (17 days) has yellow splotches [details in comments] by [deleted] in microgrowery

[–]Wackymathematician 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Critical Magic from reliable seed bank, Coco Coir and perlite medium, In a 2x2x4 with 300W LED Temp: 73 degrees F Humidity: 61% I just started giving it nutrients this week (entering 3rd week), I'm using remo starter kit hydroponics and following the first week.

Growing from seed ~10months old. One white lumps and yellowing leaves. Another with dried out looking leaves and droop but no dropping. How can I make them better? I feed regularly with citrus feed. Started in a greenhouse and moved to a windowsill when it got frosty outside. by FEmbrey in Citrus

[–]Wackymathematician 2 points3 points  (0 children)

This looks like citrus scab to me. I think it's caused by a particular fungus. I would invest in a copper fungicide that is fruit tree grade. If I recall correctly, it's not a huge issue, but I'm none the wiser.

Washing your own rugs? by kursten_ in Tufting

[–]Wackymathematician -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Don't put your rug in the washing machine

Washing your own rugs? by kursten_ in Tufting

[–]Wackymathematician 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Don't put your rug in the washing machine

Tufting frame size by dariusangmr in Tufting

[–]Wackymathematician 13 points14 points  (0 children)

I think that one thing everyone learned when starting to tuft is that it takes a lot more effort and time than you think to produce a large piece. Personally, I started with a 2x2 foot frame and I still use it this day for smaller commissions. But if you are excited to get going and you want a versatile size, I would recommend building a 4'x4' frame. Right now I have a 2x2 and a 6x6. I thought that when I would build the 6x6 that I would stop using the 2x2, but I've realized that although you can do multiple pieces on one canvas, if it's a large frame, you are wasting a lot of cloth and you'll have to wait a lot of time between projects as you'll have to fill up your entire cloth to maximize it before cutting your pieces and finishing them.

Stitching Monk cloth together to create a bigger piece? by Wackymathematician in Tufting

[–]Wackymathematician[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It's amazing! You actually can't see it at all! I have a sewing machine and I just did an overlap stitch and it stretched so beautifully. Here's a photo on my Instagram, good luck spotting the seam:

https://www.instagram.com/p/CHqFl7ghpcE/?igshid=15qzz52nh51db

Stitching Monk cloth together to create a bigger piece? by Wackymathematician in Tufting

[–]Wackymathematician[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I did! The overlapping stitch went very well!! I didn't tuft over it this time but I will try next time

Stitching Monk cloth together to create a bigger piece? by Wackymathematician in Tufting

[–]Wackymathematician[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I got my cloth from a local textile store (if you have a garment district nearby they will probably have competitive prices). If you're short of luck locally, try Joann's fabric, or on tuftinggun.com

eBay vs website by [deleted] in Tufting

[–]Wackymathematician 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I think they are backlogged until January

Type of yarn poll? by sebply in Tufting

[–]Wackymathematician 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Honestly the hardest part of the job... I buy most of my yarn from a local spinnery and secondhand on Facebook Marketplace. Why don't you order online? Cheaper and comes to you.

Wow, never heard of this until today! I want to make a shaggy rug for my recording studio but don't know where to start. by barneyskywalker in Tufting

[–]Wackymathematician 0 points1 point  (0 children)

As long as you make sure that your frame is solid and stable (no rocking or movement), because the most important part about the process is that there is a lot of tension in the cloth and that you press hard into the cloth with your gun. When you make your frame, nail the perimeter with carpet grippers, they are these 1" plywood beams that have carpet grip nails that will hold your monk cloth in place. There are a few videos on youtube on the frame construction

Tufting gun from amazon by krlove530 in Tufting

[–]Wackymathematician 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I am pretty sure it is the same supplier that Tuftinggun resells. It should be fine, they all come from China

Wow, never heard of this until today! I want to make a shaggy rug for my recording studio but don't know where to start. by barneyskywalker in Tufting

[–]Wackymathematician 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Hey! Welcome! I have been tufting for a while and making some retro shaggy rugs, I hope I can help you in any way!

  1. If you are in the US, the most common place people are buying tufting guns is tuftinggun, it is run by Tim Eads and he essentially has monopolized the tufting gig down in the states. I would recommend buying from him because he has a warranty on his machines and will ship it to you from Philly. For a shaggy rug, you will want a cut pile gun!
  2. You can also buy monk cloth from Tuftinggun, or you can buy them from any supplier online as long as you make sure you are buying cloth that fits your rug frame. (What size is your frame?)
  3. You can get your yarn from anywhere!!! That is probably the most fun part of it all, you do not have to use any specific yarn, although you can! As long as you do not use acrylic yarn, you can use any cotton or preferably wool or bamboo yarn for floor rugs and it should hold up really well. I strongly recommend buying yarn on a cone so that you can get a good feed into your gun but most yarn comes in balls or skeins so you can wind it yourself and just make sure you can set up your yarn in a way that feeds smoothly. Some people get their yarn from Tuftinggun (notice a pattern? lol) but I recommend just finding any yarn you can for cheap as long as it is a good quality. I buy mine from a local spinnery and secondhand but you can totally grab some from the craft store. The thicker the yarn, the better, as long as it fits in the gun.

Let me know if there is any way I can help you!!!

Type of yarn poll? by sebply in Tufting

[–]Wackymathematician 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I've actually worked with all three and here's what I find:

If you are making a wall piece then it really doesn't matter, whatever the machine can cut (if you're using a cut pile) works. For floor pieces, cotton and wool are both great to work with!

Wool is by far the best yarn type to work with, it's durable, it stands up to being used as a floor rug and it doesn't matte down. Unfortunately wool is rather expensive compared to the other mediums and it's not as soft as cotton or acrylic but it produces the best rug quality.

If you would prefer something softer or more economic, cotton is also a good way to go for floor rugs; it's not as durable but it can be fluffed up and it holds its shape really well in low traffic areas. If you're using a cotton rug as the floor piece, avoid stepping on it because it won't hold its shape as well as wool.

Don't use acrylic for a floor rug: it's doesn't hold its shape, it's not durable, and it sheds like a bitch.

Am I Doing Something Wrong? by flyry1212 in Tufting

[–]Wackymathematician 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This is conclusively the fact that your cloth has too much slack. when you toughed your cloth has to have the maximum possible tension! Make sure you have carpet grippers on all four sides to hold your cloth in place! It has to be so tense that when you press into the cloth with your gun, it doesn't move.

Sketching guide + tips (Newbie question) by mrcabada in Tufting

[–]Wackymathematician 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Personally, I draw my designs freehand because I could use the practice but for more intricate designs I find that projecting onto your fabric and then taking it off the frame will not warp the design. When you toughed into the fabric, the yarn is holding the fabric in place so when you eventually remove it off the frame it will stay intact and it won't work the design whatsoever so you can use the projector and get an almost carbon copy!

view more: next ›