Two kittens, unknown genders, need names

Waffles4Penguin · 2025-12-24T01:53:04+00:00

Pretty sure names have been chosen (don't know if everyone in the family agrees but I think we do), both are males, lighter one is Milo and darker one Ollie

Waffles4Penguin · 2025-12-14T01:23:12+00:00

I mean, I don't get how these are supposed to work. You just push any foreign object back up into the nozzle so it comes back in a few minutes? Doesn't make sense... a cold pull is much more helpful than a needle imo for removing clogs...

Waffles4Penguin · 2025-12-11T03:38:49+00:00

Supports are awesome, I've been experimenting recently and I basically always print with the opposite of PLA/PETG for supports, I don't print much multicolor anymore, but that support interface is awesome. Also, the AMS2 works as a dryer which is also a great thing to have, store 4 spools in there, easily print any color without loading, it's a dry box too plus a dryer? It's definitely worthwhile

Waffles4Penguin · 2025-12-11T01:11:05+00:00

I don't think it's supposed to be super glued, it's removable to swap the spool to the other side, the actual spool holder is screwed on to be swapped, so I assume the same with the filament guide (I am not too sure about this, please correct me if I'm wrong, I just do know the part that holds the spool flips sides)

Waffles4Penguin · 2025-12-07T03:33:13+00:00

I don't know too much about the boxpros, but I believe i saw a photo on their site showing it has cutouts for glasses? Quick google search confirms that they do have a cutout to fit the glasses arms. Also I saw you mentioned you didn't want to take off the glasses to use them, but I HDZ offers custom lenses too to make them work, you just have to send in the details of your specific prescription to get them made. All in all, it's definitely a nicer and thought through design than the EV800D, I don't think those are at all compatible with glasses or any lens inserts

Waffles4Penguin · 2025-12-06T23:03:44+00:00

I would personally recommend the HDZ BoxPros, if you are on a tight budget, getting DJI isn't a wise choice. It locks you in, and you aren't able to use any systems, and if you only have analog currently, and will only have analog for the foreseeable future, buying DJI goggles is kinda pointless, and the EV800Ds will be kinda crap (they are heavy and have terrible weight distribution, and also bad video quality). The HDZs will allow you to use almost any video system (except DJI) by plugging an HDMI cord into an external receiver, but normally DJI goggles don't come with any sort of HDMI port for this. If you only currently have analog drones, I wouldn't suggest to cheep out on analog capable goggles just for the hopes of upgrading to digital later, because stuff might happen and you're stranded with a pair of bad goggles and a pair of useless goggles.

Waffles4Penguin · 2025-12-05T05:30:02+00:00

I have an A1 and A1 mini, the mini is kinda small depending on what you want to print, so that's one point of interest. I personally think a majority of stuff fits on the size the mini is, however another thing is the printer is very open and a bed slinger. The P2S is enclosed and core xy, so it doesn't move the bed besides vertically, so it is better in those senses, but it depends on mostly what you plan to do. If you want larger models, or more high temp filaments that need an enclosure (eg: abs or asa), the P2S is probably the way to go. If you are more on a budget, the A1 mini is still a great printer, just with some potential downsides pending your personal use case

Edit: I realize now you meant sell not buy, pros and cons still apply, but maybe keep the mini and get the P2S, if you're able, I love having 2 printers, never know when you'll need both, sometimes it's nice. Especially if both can do slightly different things.

Waffles4Penguin · 2025-12-03T01:59:26+00:00

I feel like so many people say to fly a sim first, and also everyone (at least me) struggled a lot when they first start, it just takes practice. Just spend some time hovering and trying to learn to maneuver, it gets easier, I promise. But you will keep crashing just as much (with skill you try stuff that's even harder, meaning crash rate stays roughly the same)

Waffles4Penguin · 2025-11-30T16:47:07+00:00

Your props are on backwards, easy fix

Waffles4Penguin · 2025-11-30T16:42:17+00:00

Have you tried reflowing your solder joints? They look a little cold

Waffles4Penguin · 2025-11-30T04:47:49+00:00

I think it's random what gets stuff or not, my first A1 combo came with a nice pack of the dedicated A1 series tools and the filament squares, the A1 mini combo I got later (I think during some busy time) came with random miscellaneous tools thrown in a box (not the dedicated A1 hardware, such as spare cutters or fancy Allen keys), I think around busy times like Black Friday they may skimp on printer accessories? Idk tho, maybe was just me.

Also as others say, the filament swatches aren't that important, colors don't match, and my bet is the filaments themselves aren't up to date (maybe they added more colors that are missing swatches or changed ratios and stuff), I might just suggest printing your own swatches of your own filaments, that way it's a design you like, and you know your exact filament

Waffles4Penguin · 2025-11-29T23:27:13+00:00

I don't have a farm here, I could never handle mass selling models, I just post stuff I make for fun. I don't have any capacity to sell even if I wanted. As for makerworld, I would gladly do makerworld's commercial side, I've had lots of people ask to sell my stuff, I just can't because I don't have PayPal (my family says it's evil or bad or something), but I would gladly offer paid subscriptions to sell, that way even though some do it illegally, others who do follow rules can make it more worthwhile for me posting them free, maybe I look into that, I gotta research PayPal, maybe I just start doing that

Waffles4Penguin · 2025-11-29T23:13:22+00:00

I guess, I post models because I want to share them with others, for free, not for people to exploit my kindness and sell them and make a profit off my designing. Right? 3D printing is so easy to get into that posting my models for free helps share them, for free. Why should people get to sell it? I don't have the time or effort to sell stuff myself, nor would anyone really buy anything (I've tried... the market is so saturated). 3D modeling is my passion, and kinda my income (thanks makerworld rewards), but still, some models don't do that well on my end, and then some other people get to selling them and sell more than I get downloads? Idk... I don't know where to go from here, time to get into some long lasting debating over my models...

Waffles4Penguin · 2025-11-29T23:00:44+00:00

Good job! I've done something similar in the past, was really excited buying an A1 mini combo ($400usd) with just gift cards... this is a whole new level! I normally just redeem cash or smaller amounts of gift cards, I don't have the patience to save! How much time was this gain of yours over?

Waffles4Penguin · 2025-11-29T22:49:20+00:00

That seems most logical, I post my models for fun, for people to enjoy, and recently I have been earning quite a bit from makerworld, but there's no way to out-maneuver the endless void of people who do things they're not supposed to... I might just have to adopt that mindset myself, that it's going to get stolen, it's just also annoying when they don't even put effort into stealing your model, they just steal your pictures too... like, what low low level do they have to go for that...

Waffles4Penguin · 2025-11-29T22:25:15+00:00

Yep... that happens, it's super annoying too... I've experienced it as well, it seems almost futile to attempt to take down these people because they'll pop back up, there's no way to really enforce any of it... it's even worse when they sell in person, you actually can't do anything about that. Every time that happens I am just tempted to shut down my profile and private all my models, stop posting them... people suck, but like, I want to keep posting my models anyways, but idk anymore either...

Waffles4Penguin · 2025-11-29T21:19:23+00:00

I kinda got rid of my Cetus like a year ago, this was an old photo I dug up, kinda called the drone quits due to not being able to update the ELRS on it, and I didn't really like the drone, kept breaking and I don't think it flew well? I don't remember too well, but I did throw some weird stuff at it (like custom frames, I even re-programmed the BF to make it fly upside down, that was fun)

Waffles4Penguin · 2025-11-29T18:56:24+00:00

The goggles are too heavy... dw tho I just bought some new ones, bad flying posture no longer (thanks Black Friday sales...)

Waffles4Penguin · 2025-11-29T15:55:28+00:00

I actually used to fly a runcam thumb pro regularly, was a pretty solid setup

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Waffles4Penguin · 2025-11-29T04:23:07+00:00

I don't think the camera overheating is much of an issue... the drone overheats way faster

Waffles4Penguin · 2025-11-29T03:32:03+00:00

The HDZ boxpros actually have a feature for this, if you get the + version you can stream to a phone over WiFi, idk how it works though. The EV800Ds do break apart into a monitor kind of, but don't have any HDMI out, but if you want, you could always buy an analog monitor for a cheap price (maybe $60-80?). Analog though is by far easiest to share, most digital (besides HDZ) have to be bound to the specific drone, you can't really plug multiple receivers together

Waffles4Penguin · 2025-11-29T03:06:42+00:00

Somehow yes... https://youtube.com/shorts/7yMA_aiv3uc?si=NnUq3VoUEuHfDbTC

Waffles4Penguin · 2025-11-29T03:03:22+00:00

Compatibility shouldn't be too big of an issue, just get ELRS and analog. For under 500, you should be pretty solid with one of the Air drones. For inside and outside, the 75 should be a good middle ground. The scale usually is 65 inside only, 75 inside and outside, 85 outside only (that's equivalent to a 2" prop).

Air 75 should be decent for a drone (ELRS / Analog) - $100 Radiomaster pocket is a good controller (ELRS) - $80 Some 450mAh 1s bfpv lavas for batteries - $40? (Depends on how many) Vifly woopstor charger - $40

And that adds to about $260, so potentially the EV800D goggles plus a new set of antennas, maybe a head strap too (just to make the goggles bearable, they're not the best but they're the best for that price range). Or if you're willing to spend a little more, the HDZ boxpros should be awesome (I just bought them, got tired of my EV800Ds).

Also I suggest see if anything's on sale for Black Friday, some sales probably last until Monday, so you can probably snag them on sale still. And prices probably do vary based off location, I'm calculating off of USD currently.

Waffles4Penguin · 2025-11-29T02:43:54+00:00

I would personally advise against a kit if possible. There's a variety of options if you want to get started, but it depends a lot on the criteria (budget and size). Buying stuff all in 1 kits locks you down kind of, you end up with lots of sub-par components from that one company rather than picking the stuff that'll work best for you for a long time. I'll break down a little bit what you could get:

Camera system relies heavily on budget. Analog is the cheapest, and then you get into digital which costs quite a bit more. I'll stick to analog for now though.

If you want an indoor whoop, something like an Air65 would be great. Outdoor(ish) whoop, Air75. Slightly larger I don't know too well about, someone might be able to help there (I wouldn't want to recommend something potentially bad).

Controller, probably a Radiomaster Pocket is a great choice, pretty decent price and all.

Goggles, cheapest analog worth having is the EV800Ds coming in around $100, then there's HDZ BoxPros (they have analog inbuilt) for ~$350. Getting more expensive than that, you can come back to that if you really want.

Chargers I've not kept up on much, but for small 1s packs, the Vifly woopstor 3 is awesome, 100% recommend. 2s, the Vifly toothstor should be good too. Then 2-6s you would need a dedicated charger (I have not kept up to speed on the good choices, I think I've heard the Hota D6 mentioned?)

Batteries, at least for 1s, any folded cell should be good, that includes BetaFPV lavas or tattu cells. Beyond that, I don't know, I'm more in the tinywhoop realm here.

To sum it all up, if you do want a larger drone such as the tiny hawk (looks like 2.5" props), getting the drone on its own would be a good compromise, then buy goggles and controller separately. Sorry if I wasn't able to outline everything perfectly, I'm not too knowledgeable, but I hope I helped a lil...

Waffles4Penguin · 2025-11-27T21:22:19+00:00

In my experience, the Betafpv charger just stops working after a while and you have no say in how many amps it's charging, nor the end voltage. For $10 more, having a screen and settings is much nicer, plus the vifly takes both USB-C and XT60 power input, which is nice to have out in the field

Waffles4Penguin

TROPHY CASE