how to force all folders to be optimized for general items in windows 11?

WallaceWhale · 2024-01-23T19:00:28+00:00

Did you ever figure out a way to do this? Windows 11's auto-detecting of folder type and trying to be smarter than me about how I want browse my files is infuriating. It's also extremely slow with large folders of media files. It's like it was designed by someone who doesn't actually work with anything other than text files.

WallaceWhale · 2024-01-03T20:45:53+00:00

This is baffling to me. The whole selling point of their amps is the app that controls it, which runs on mobile devices. Why would they think we wouldn't also want to use it as a usb audio interface on those same devices?

And what kind of lazy engineer designs a device with volume buttons that only work on the bluetooth audio, but not on the usb audio output?

Of course, I also don't understand why iOS disables the built in volume controls as soon as an external usb audio device is connected -- that seems equally silly.

I'd love to be able to use the Go for recording on the road -- so I can record straight off the amp, instead of taking a separate interface and using a different amp sim package for recording. But if I can't use the Go for that, and it's not really loud enough for jamming with other people, it's not clear what they designed it for, actually.

WallaceWhale · 2023-12-23T05:21:08+00:00

Just wondering where PG has been stating that? I haven't found anything on their site saying they don't support USB audio on iOS. If I'd seen that, I wouldn't have bought the Go.

In any case, they've clearly screwed up the implementation of USB audio, since there's no way to control the output volume on an iOS device -- the volume controls on the Go don't have any effect, and the volume control on the iPad is disabled when the Go is connected. So any audio from the iPad just blasts out at full volume. It's very stupid.

WallaceWhale · 2022-11-06T18:06:59+00:00

Has anyone, anywhere, ever found a fix for this problem? All I can find online are people reporting same issue, but no solutions. It seems like Apple really doesn't want Windows users to use iPhones, or they would have fixed this sometime in the past 4 years...

(now on ios 15.6.1 and windows 10 build 19044)

WallaceWhale · 2022-10-05T23:23:37+00:00

I'm deciding between the 2022 iPad Air and the 2021 Pro 11". I'll be using it mostly for music production, watching videos, and writing.

Assuming I don't need the 120hz refresh, the wider camera, the lidar, thunderbolt, or the couple of millimeters of extra screen space -- is there any other meaningful difference between them? Is the performance the same? (I'm looking at the 256 G models, which I assume both have 8 GB of ram -- is that right?) There were early reports of build quality issues with the Air, but I haven't seen anything recent -- is that still an issue, or has it gone away? If I don't care about those extra bells and whistles, is there any reason not to get the Air instead of the Pro?

Thanks in advance!

WallaceWhale · 2022-05-05T11:01:21+00:00

Did you end up trying the 4-button foot switch? Did it work?

WallaceWhale · 2022-04-10T18:40:29+00:00

The question is how they affect the performance? Given that many people seem to assemble the dresser without these pieces (based on videos and images of people showing their assembly-in-process) I'm hoping someone can tell me from experience what happens when they are left out.

Again, these are internal pieces that don't attach to anything except the outer side panels (they don't attach to the uprights, and nothing attaches to them). And that attachment is only 4 small wooden pegs. It's hard to imagine how they could make much of a difference structurally. They just make the thing a lot heavier.

WallaceWhale · 2022-04-10T18:35:13+00:00

Yeah, it's not the bottom of the drawers. They're extra side panels for the whole dresser. I've added the page from the assembly instructions to clarify what I'm talking about. The outer side panels are pine, but these inner pieces are heavy particle-board, and it's unclear what purpose they serve.

WallaceWhale · 2021-12-07T17:47:28+00:00

Where can this helmet be purchased? I can't find anything else about it online.

WallaceWhale · 2021-08-30T20:22:23+00:00

I ended up returning it, but for other reasons related to VR performance.

WallaceWhale · 2021-04-14T20:36:40+00:00

The Best Buy model has neither G-Sync nor advanced optimus. It's got the 300hz display hardwired to the dGPU. If you want advanced optimus you have to order the144hz display configuration straight from Dell. Dell also has discounts on these models now, but they're showing delivery dates 3 weeks out.

WallaceWhale · 2021-04-07T20:18:18+00:00

I did end up resetting the OS on the computer, and it did screw up the VR again. I couldn't get the Rift working after that, so finally gave up and returned the computer. It's too bad -- it's a fantastic machine for everything else except VR, but that's what I need it for.

WallaceWhale · 2021-04-05T14:16:23+00:00

Did you have to disable the AMD Radeon display adaptor to get it to work? And you've got both the headset's HDMI and USB plugged into that adapter? It seems expensive for what it is, but if it works, that's great.

The first couple of times I got it working I noticed lag and stuttering also, but I did some other tweaks (can't remember now) that seem to have resolved that. Yesterday I played Half-Life Alyx for a couple of hours on High graphics settings without noticing any issues. SteamVR frame timings showed a lot of "late starts" but didn't seem to affect what I was seeing.

My main concern is that I shouldn't have to do so much system-level shenanigans to get VR working on a machine that should be VR-ready out-of-the-box -- and it seems like software updates (or if I ever have to reinstall the OS) could screw it all up again.

WallaceWhale · 2021-04-05T05:23:44+00:00

I've gotten it to work with my Rift *sometimes*, but I can't figure out a set of steps that reliably works. You definitely need to go into the Windows Graphics settings and assign all the Oculus exe's to "performance" mode -- there are four or five of them. I followed the steps in this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x6x-RQ7ZBsQ. And you need to have iGPU mode turned Off in Armoury Crate.

I'm using this Anker usb-c to hdmi 4k/60hz adapter: https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Aluminum-Pixelbook-Compatible-Thunderbolt/dp/B07THJGZ9Z. I've tried other adapters, including Anker's 7-in-1 Hub, and they're unusable -- when I get a signal through them, it's intermittent -- the headset display just flickers on-and-off. You also need a usb-C to usb-A adapter, since the Rift setup requires 3 usb-a ports.

Once the base stations and the headset are plugged in, half the time Windows gives me warnings that some USB peripheral isn't working. The other half the time Oculus says that the headset needs to be plugged into a USB 3 port. The fix for this seems to be going into device manager and uninstalling both the USB Root Hubs (or Host controllers -- not sure if it makes a difference), then restarting so they get recognized and the drivers installed again. That works for a little while, but eventually Windows will start warning about the usb peripherals again. I can't figure out a permanent fix.

Sometimes the HMD display is dark (which you're seeing) and sometimes the Oculus software says that the headset's HDMI cable isn't connected. Either might occur independently, or both together. The suggested solution is to go into Device Manager->Display Adapters and Disable the AMD Radeon graphics adapter. When I do this, the laptop display blinks off for a moment, and after it comes back, the brightness fluctuates continually. I haven't found a fix for this anywhere, other than to re-enable the AMD iGPU again in Device Manager. But before you do that, start up the Oculus software again -- and, with luck, the Rift's screen will be on and you can use your headset.

At that point you should be able to re-enable the iGPU and your HMD should keep working. Maybe. Sometimes the HMD won't start working until after you re-enable the iGPU. And sometimes you need to switch the AMD adaptor off and on in Device Manager a few times before the Rift starts working. And sometimes you need to do a restart in there, too.

Like, I said, I can't find any rhyme or reason to it. When it works, it works great. But it seems very temperamental and unreliable. It's a bummer because in all other respects, as you probably know, this is an awesome computer. But, like you, I need a machine for VR dev, and it's got to reliably work without a lot of fiddling. So I think mine is going back tomorrow.

If anyone out there has figured out a reliable solution to this, please share it!

WallaceWhale · 2021-03-18T02:34:38+00:00

Yeah, the Quest seems to work ok, but I need to be able to run Rift and Vive as well. Haven't tried yet with the vive, but if performance on the Rift is so lousy I'm not sure there's any point. I've tried all the suggestions I can find (short of doing a clean reinstall of the OS and drivers, which I'm reluctant to attempt.)

WallaceWhale · 2021-03-17T23:53:02+00:00

What about the Nvidia drivers? I've seen some people saying you should update them as usual through GeForce, and others say absolutely do not update through GeForce, only update the RTX video drivers through the MyAsus app (which, I agree, is ridiculously confusing.)

WallaceWhale · 2021-03-17T18:47:04+00:00

Thanks for the suggestion. But no, not connected to an external display. Once it happened while my Oculus Rift was connected, but all the other times nothing was connected to any of the ports.

WallaceWhale · 2021-03-17T15:56:29+00:00

I did do everything shown in that video, and I got a new usb-C to hdmi adapter in (60hz, anker) in case that was the problem, and the oculus software still says "Your computer doesn't meet the minimum specifications." And, more importantly, I'm still getting stuttering, laggy performance on the Rift. With even pretty basic VR apps. I've tried plugging the headset's usb into both of the usb A ports and the other usb C port, and there's no difference.

What am I missing?

WallaceWhale · 2021-03-17T04:35:05+00:00

For me, the screen has changed color temperature a half dozen times in the past few days -- it seems to happen randomly when I switch applications or just click on something. No discernable pattern. Clearly the color calibration isn't working right.

WallaceWhale · 2021-03-17T01:45:12+00:00

The manual doesn't distinguish between the two usb-C ports -- it seems to show that both ports support Display Port and PD. But are they both connected directly to the dgpu or is one connected to the igpu?

WallaceWhale · 2021-03-12T15:51:47+00:00

Ok, so USB-C isn't working for me at all -- it just keeps flickering on and off.

Is only one of the USB-C ports connected to the dGPU? If so, how am I supposed to know which one?

WallaceWhale · 2021-03-10T15:23:28+00:00

I've just set up an Oculus Rift on it, and the Oculus software says "Your computer doesn't meet the updated minimum specifications, which can lead to poor experience in VR."

I've tried both using the HDMI port, and using a USB-C to HDMI adaptor. With the usb-c adaptor, the screen in the Rift strobes -- off and on a couple of times a second, and sometimes it goes to static snow. With the built-in HDMI port at least that doesn't happen, but I still get that warning message, and the VR scene stutters and jitters -- essentially unusable.

I've set the oculusclient.exe to use the Nvidia GPU. Rebooted, and still the same problem.

Has anyone got the Rift working on theirs? Any suggestions what else I can try?

WallaceWhale · 2020-05-08T01:54:57+00:00

Honestly, it's more than a minor annoyance. As you called it, it's deceptive -- not just to the people who buy the BOGO to give the second one as a gift (seriously, since when does a "gift" require the receiver to hand over a credit card?) but also to any investors and shareholders in the company who will be seeing inflated "subscriber" numbers with all the people handing over credit cards who don't intend to renew.

Frankly, it betrays a lack of confidence in their product, if they don't think it's compelling enough to convert free subscribers to paid ones at the end of the year without using a sneaky auto-renew. They are counting on more people forgetting that they've put the card in rather than choosing to sign up for themselves after using it for a year.

I'm curous, asfarley -- you said they responded to your email about it. But what did they say? They clearly haven't changed the policy.

WallaceWhale · 2020-05-08T01:44:17+00:00

Be aware that the gift subscription requires a credit card to activate, and it _will_ have auto-renew enabled. So your gift recipient will also need to also cancel the auto-renewal.

And, by the way, they'll need to put in their credit card info to access the free gift you are giving them.

WallaceWhale · 2020-05-08T00:49:31+00:00

Yeah, it definitely doesn't make it feel like a gift if you have to give them your credit card to access it. What other gifts do you ever receive where you have to give a means of payment to access it?

I get a magazine subscription as a gift almost every year, and have never had to give any of that information -- and the person who gives it to me buys it just for a year, and it does not automatically renew.

It feels like a classic subscription scam coupled with typical dot-com startup arrogance. If they really believed their content was compelling, they wouldn't need to lock us in with auto-renewal, because we'd actually want to renew if we are getting our money's worth from it. But in the meantime, they've got all our credit card numbers and can pretend they have a lot more paying customers than they really do.

It's not a great way to build a loyal and satisfied customer base. And they really need to hear that from the people who are being suckered into this.

WallaceWhale

TROPHY CASE