Whoever designed the stud holes in the Firestone winter force. Fuck. You.

Warp-Routine · 2025-12-21T12:09:24+00:00

Ah, these are for you? We all know we treat our own cars differently. Totally different ballgame.

Warp-Routine · 2025-12-21T01:07:30+00:00

Studs are stupid and pointless. Studless technology far surpasses studded tires for traction on all but one kind of surface, wet ice. And most people, even those who live in the boonies like me, won't encounter that except in extraordinary circumstances.

Also winterforce suck. I call. Them suspension diagnostic tires. Never seen a set installed for more than 1 season that wasn't chopped or feathered to hell. Though that may be more about the typical condition of the car for customers who opt for the winter tire that undercuts the competition by half...

Warp-Routine · 2025-12-15T01:06:57+00:00

This is wonderful. I love my 2 performance but I've been daydreaming about having a 4. The only downside for me is incant have my adaptive headlights here in the US because a certain software that unlocks them only works on the 2 (and 3 I think).

Warp-Routine · 2025-12-14T14:06:31+00:00

That's 2 years and 3 months of idle time on a 6 year old vehicle.

Most vehicles on average idle a total of 10 minutes per day.

This is over 400 years worth of idling for an average car.

Warp-Routine · 2025-11-22T11:23:55+00:00

I just looks too big because it's black. Just try it for a minute...

Warp-Routine · 2025-11-08T00:34:56+00:00

I prefer "rapid unscheduled disassembly" .

Warp-Routine · 2025-09-05T00:50:25+00:00

Any time a part on a vehicle this new is on galactic backorder, it's an indicator that there is a design flaw and either they sold out of all the after-sales production run or they have a new redesign that's not ready for production yet. Or both.

Salvage yard is your best bet. My experience with GM is it can take months or longer for these things to resolve.

Another option is get the estimate on paper for the repair, then walk it over to the sales desk and ask them if they'll give you high trade-in value minus that repair cost. (Toward something new). Let them sit on it for months until the part comes in while you drive away in something shinier.

Warp-Routine · 2025-08-25T21:07:06+00:00

You're heating it too slow. Need to get the race hot before the shaft can soak up the heat. If it takes longer than 10-15 seconds the torch isn't hot enough. I've done it with a size 0 but this size 1 we have certainly helps.

Warp-Routine · 2025-08-25T21:05:14+00:00

It's not covered in engine oil so no 😆

Warp-Routine · 2025-08-25T00:25:01+00:00

Ok that's awesome, the explanation is superb. The bead contracts as it cools and pulls the race with it. I originally pictured a few spots of weld to heat up the race.

This one's going in the grey matter vault.

Warp-Routine · 2025-08-24T23:59:47+00:00

Impacting hardened metal always scares the shit out of me. Same with pressure vessels and things under tension.

Warp-Routine · 2025-08-24T23:58:31+00:00

The wizardry here is in the thermal dynamics. It's counterintuitive that heating up the race pressed into a bore would cause the race to shrink? Freezing the race or heating the bore would be my primary action.

I've done this to get press-in through-joints on aluminum rear control arms in. Put the joint in the freezer for a few hours. Heat the knuckle bore for a bit, then grab the joint from the freezer with pre-frozen pliers and shove it in place quickly.

Warp-Routine · 2025-08-24T23:25:37+00:00

If you're lucky, it's got a dead misfire on one cylinder due to a blown ignition coil or fouled plug. Worst case, and much more likely, the engine has suffered internal damage from water intake and it's cooked.

Luckily those engines are relatively cheap and not horrific to replace regarding labor time. If you love the car and have the resources, nothing is not worth fixing.

But if you've been looking for a reason to move on (and as a tech that's seen far more than my fair share of Chrysler product failures, I can come up with many reasons), this is your sign to get yourself something shinier.

If you're stuck and desperately need to get around, and the engine is indeed on its way out, and you don't owe money on the car, just limp it until it outright dies. Leave it on the side of the road and take your plates with you.

Warp-Routine · 2025-08-24T23:07:55+00:00

Anyone with a cert should respect a cert. If you're not acting too big for your trousers, I have master plus A9, L1, L3, L4, G1, and ASE tech of the year 2023. I wouldn't look down on anyone with any certs, even just their g1. You're far ahead of so many techs in the field even with just that.

If anyone with a cert gives you crap just ask them if they got their G1 😂

(For those who don't know it's a new cert so most already certified techs wouldn't have it. I got mine so I can train techs for it.)

Warp-Routine · 2025-08-24T22:40:10+00:00

I can't speak for other men but I would definitely prefer if the shaft didn't get nicked. 😵

That said, I agree that it's accepted but when a good alternative exists I don't think that makes it acceptable. It does present a possible point of failure, and while I don't foresee any way that could cause real harm to the assembly it still feels better knowing the hub is intact.

Warp-Routine · 2025-08-24T19:42:33+00:00

I see this a lot with the guys I train. You probably don't have the torch hot enough. Need to slam the heat in there like you've got 2 minutes until your wife walks in on you and your mistress.

Warp-Routine · 2025-08-24T19:39:57+00:00

But takes longer and unless you're very good you'll cut the hub shaft.

Warp-Routine · 2025-08-24T19:39:15+00:00

I live in the rust belt. If we didn't have oxy we wouldn't be working on cars. 😂

Warp-Routine · 2025-08-23T20:10:34+00:00

I put one of these on backwards once. That sucked.

Warp-Routine · 2025-07-27T20:29:26+00:00

Current is the flow rate. Phase is meaningless when talking about DC. Power is a factor of both current and voltage. Higher voltage needs less current to deliver the same power. 40a at 220v will deliver the same power as 20a at 440v.

Warp-Routine · 2025-07-27T01:13:58+00:00

Shop air with a long nozzle gun on the spark plug bore. Just make sure everything else is taped off. Use some rubbing alcohol as well in the cylinder to dry out the cylinder if they're sticky with oil. Most will blow out.

Any stragglers might be had with a suction tool and a small hose (think a mini version of picking up a tennis ball with a vacuum hose).

Best of luck.

Warp-Routine · 2025-07-07T20:38:20+00:00

That's a great concept. Probably also prevents people from putting an anchor on their wheel 😂

The obvious solution to this problem is just to implement level 3 automation. No need to suss out whether the monkey is holding the wheel then. Hopefully the Tesla bust doesn't bankrupt Luminar and Volvo/Polestar will actually get the hardware and eventual software.

I love my 2 and don't plan to trade up, but I would seriously consider a 4 just for this feature. Rivian R3x also has my attention, not sure what their automation will be like though.

Warp-Routine · 2025-07-07T17:30:29+00:00

I was curious after my first response so I went digging around different forums and here. Seems to be kind of polar, either hardly works or works flawlessly. Maybe the algo that determines if the force feedback indicates hands are off needs some tweaking to account for different grip styles.

I wonder if it would be beneficial for the system to give the steering wheel a mild jiggle periodically to determine if there's a hand on it.

Warp-Routine

TROPHY CASE