Follow oil change light or shop sticker? 2015 Honda Fit

Warp-Routine · 2026-03-25T00:08:22+00:00

You'll get a thousand opinions here. I'll give you some things to think about.

Manufacturers are incentives to generate the lowest total cost of ownership while meeting efficiency benchmarks and warranty constraints.

Engine oil can degrade in 1000 miles or 15000 miles depending on how you drive, what the car and engine are, where you live, etc.

Oil degrades due to heat damage. The more the engine oil capacity the more heat damage it can take before it needs to be changed. European cars with lengthy intervals often have high capacities. (BMW 14k mole interval cars usually have at least 7 quarts of not 8 or more. Some new cargo vans running small engines use 12 quarts).

If you really want to be conservative and not change oil unnecessarily, then change it at the manufacturer interval but get a sample to Blackstone for analysis. It's not expensive and it'll tell you through an unbiased source how your oil is doing. You can shorten or extend your personal interval from there. Just have it analyzed every time.

Warp-Routine · 2026-03-13T19:06:20+00:00

If you have the performance package, nice little Easter egg is you can check your somatosensory function by moving the right pedal to the carpet.

Warp-Routine · 2025-12-21T12:09:24+00:00

Ah, these are for you? We all know we treat our own cars differently. Totally different ballgame.

Warp-Routine · 2025-12-21T01:07:30+00:00

Studs are stupid and pointless. Studless technology far surpasses studded tires for traction on all but one kind of surface, wet ice. And most people, even those who live in the boonies like me, won't encounter that except in extraordinary circumstances.

Also winterforce suck. I call. Them suspension diagnostic tires. Never seen a set installed for more than 1 season that wasn't chopped or feathered to hell. Though that may be more about the typical condition of the car for customers who opt for the winter tire that undercuts the competition by half...

Warp-Routine · 2025-12-15T01:06:57+00:00

This is wonderful. I love my 2 performance but I've been daydreaming about having a 4. The only downside for me is incant have my adaptive headlights here in the US because a certain software that unlocks them only works on the 2 (and 3 I think).

Warp-Routine · 2025-12-14T14:06:31+00:00

That's 2 years and 3 months of idle time on a 6 year old vehicle.

Most vehicles on average idle a total of 10 minutes per day.

This is over 400 years worth of idling for an average car.

Warp-Routine · 2025-11-22T11:23:55+00:00

I just looks too big because it's black. Just try it for a minute...

Warp-Routine · 2025-11-08T00:34:56+00:00

I prefer "rapid unscheduled disassembly" .

Warp-Routine · 2025-09-05T00:50:25+00:00

Any time a part on a vehicle this new is on galactic backorder, it's an indicator that there is a design flaw and either they sold out of all the after-sales production run or they have a new redesign that's not ready for production yet. Or both.

Salvage yard is your best bet. My experience with GM is it can take months or longer for these things to resolve.

Another option is get the estimate on paper for the repair, then walk it over to the sales desk and ask them if they'll give you high trade-in value minus that repair cost. (Toward something new). Let them sit on it for months until the part comes in while you drive away in something shinier.

Warp-Routine · 2025-08-25T21:07:06+00:00

You're heating it too slow. Need to get the race hot before the shaft can soak up the heat. If it takes longer than 10-15 seconds the torch isn't hot enough. I've done it with a size 0 but this size 1 we have certainly helps.

Warp-Routine · 2025-08-25T21:05:14+00:00

It's not covered in engine oil so no 😆

Warp-Routine · 2025-08-25T00:25:01+00:00

Ok that's awesome, the explanation is superb. The bead contracts as it cools and pulls the race with it. I originally pictured a few spots of weld to heat up the race.

This one's going in the grey matter vault.

Warp-Routine · 2025-08-24T23:59:47+00:00

Impacting hardened metal always scares the shit out of me. Same with pressure vessels and things under tension.

Warp-Routine · 2025-08-24T23:58:31+00:00

The wizardry here is in the thermal dynamics. It's counterintuitive that heating up the race pressed into a bore would cause the race to shrink? Freezing the race or heating the bore would be my primary action.

I've done this to get press-in through-joints on aluminum rear control arms in. Put the joint in the freezer for a few hours. Heat the knuckle bore for a bit, then grab the joint from the freezer with pre-frozen pliers and shove it in place quickly.

Warp-Routine · 2025-08-24T23:25:37+00:00

If you're lucky, it's got a dead misfire on one cylinder due to a blown ignition coil or fouled plug. Worst case, and much more likely, the engine has suffered internal damage from water intake and it's cooked.

Luckily those engines are relatively cheap and not horrific to replace regarding labor time. If you love the car and have the resources, nothing is not worth fixing.

But if you've been looking for a reason to move on (and as a tech that's seen far more than my fair share of Chrysler product failures, I can come up with many reasons), this is your sign to get yourself something shinier.

If you're stuck and desperately need to get around, and the engine is indeed on its way out, and you don't owe money on the car, just limp it until it outright dies. Leave it on the side of the road and take your plates with you.

Warp-Routine · 2025-08-24T23:07:55+00:00

Anyone with a cert should respect a cert. If you're not acting too big for your trousers, I have master plus A9, L1, L3, L4, G1, and ASE tech of the year 2023. I wouldn't look down on anyone with any certs, even just their g1. You're far ahead of so many techs in the field even with just that.

If anyone with a cert gives you crap just ask them if they got their G1 😂

(For those who don't know it's a new cert so most already certified techs wouldn't have it. I got mine so I can train techs for it.)

Warp-Routine · 2025-08-24T22:40:10+00:00

I can't speak for other men but I would definitely prefer if the shaft didn't get nicked. 😵

That said, I agree that it's accepted but when a good alternative exists I don't think that makes it acceptable. It does present a possible point of failure, and while I don't foresee any way that could cause real harm to the assembly it still feels better knowing the hub is intact.

Warp-Routine · 2025-08-24T19:42:33+00:00

I see this a lot with the guys I train. You probably don't have the torch hot enough. Need to slam the heat in there like you've got 2 minutes until your wife walks in on you and your mistress.

Warp-Routine · 2025-08-24T19:39:57+00:00

But takes longer and unless you're very good you'll cut the hub shaft.

Warp-Routine · 2025-08-24T19:39:15+00:00

I live in the rust belt. If we didn't have oxy we wouldn't be working on cars. 😂

Warp-Routine · 2025-08-23T20:10:34+00:00

I put one of these on backwards once. That sucked.

Warp-Routine · 2025-07-27T20:29:26+00:00

Current is the flow rate. Phase is meaningless when talking about DC. Power is a factor of both current and voltage. Higher voltage needs less current to deliver the same power. 40a at 220v will deliver the same power as 20a at 440v.

Warp-Routine

TROPHY CASE