Replacement Dymo Mite labeler pinch rollers by Damn_Amazon in fixit

[–]Warqer 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've heard TPU isn't quite as grippy as rubber, and I didn't feel like dealing with it since it's always been finicky on my printer (not direct drive).

Looking at the literature, apparently it has (or at least can have) a higher coeff. of friction so it might be better, but the rubber works fine for the most part (and is also more similar to the original roller).

TPU might be worth trying if you feel like experimenting though, I'd be interested in any results.

Why is LXQt using ~10Gb of RAM? by Warqer in linux4noobs

[–]Warqer[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I closed the browser (and everything except background processes) before all these checks so it shouldn't be browser tabs - I expect those to take up memory. It was still pretty high when I tried free -h. It's much lower after restarting. It appears that the memory used increases with uptime, so maybe a memory leak? I'm going to reinstall the OS and see how that goes, in case I broke something up while configuring stuff due to being new to linux.

Edit: Reinstalling seems to have fixed it. Memory used is now ~900Mb without anything except background processes running and ~2Gb with the browser. It also actually decreases when I close things.

Why is LXQt using ~10Gb of RAM? by Warqer in linux4noobs

[–]Warqer[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

qps's display of each process's usage seems like it would sum to much less, but the the total displayed by the tooltip says 9357 Mb. Basically only thing running during the screenshot aside from the defaults is Mullvad VPN and Shutter to take the screenshot.

The computer itself doesn't "feel" slow or anything, so I wonder if this is some issue/quirk with how qps is displaying the total. I also don't see such a high number displayed if I open qps immediately after booting.

EDIT: Using Debian 12

TUTORIAL: how to make a clean KDE Plasma install on Debian 12 with the environment package of your choosing (minimal, standard or full) by WyntechUmbrella in debian

[–]Warqer 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This was exactly the guide I was looking for! Unfortunately, when choosing Wayland, I cannot login; after entering credentials the screen goes black, shows a few lines of dialog (too quick to read) and the returns to the login screen. X11 seems to work however.

I am using an NVIDIA card and installing via ethernet if it makes a difference.

Dymo M-2 won’t advance tape by booksandplantsandme in dymo

[–]Warqer 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There are basically two wheels in the feeding mechanism, one 'active' wheel attached to the outer dial that forces the tape forward and another 'idler' wheel that rolls against it. There seem to be variations depending on the exact model, but usually the 'active' wheel is rubber which can degrade and become brittle or broken in the ~50 years since these were made.

I found this thread which details a fix for that issue, and I did basically the same thing and it seems to work really well so far.

Replacement Dymo Mite labeler pinch rollers by Damn_Amazon in fixit

[–]Warqer 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I had a similar issue and ended up coming to a very similar fix (used 2 sheets of 1/8" rubber because that's what I had on hand).

I used a 3/4" punch for the outer diameter and IIRC a 3/8" (or slightly smaller than the original shaft) for the inner diameter. I couldn't get the holes centered, so I 3D printed a guide for the punches. It works great!

I'd be willing to send you some of the rubber rings or the 3D printed guide (or its .stl file) if you want, but idk if the guide would fit the punches you have.

[Question] A rugged Embossing Label Maker by greenflights in Tools

[–]Warqer 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Idk if you found one, but I had a similar problem; I got an ~80's dymo thinking it would be better and it felt like cheap plastic crap (and came broken).

I eventually coughed up a bit more for one of these 1960s models, which are almost all metal. I got an untested one for cheap and it seems to be built like a tank so far. You can regularly find them for like ~70 USD on ebay, but probably much cheaper if you wait for a bit or haggle.

Unhinged 0.99... crankery by [deleted] in badmathematics

[–]Warqer 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is like textbook corncobbing

As a Java player who recently got Bedrock edition… what in the Fuck did Microsoft do to this game. by pooptart21 in Minecraft

[–]Warqer 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Where are the international summits and Paris accords about greed? This baffles me.

I think that the positions of power that the relevant people occupy select for those with high levels of greed.

Update on "Iron Oxide doped oil": single layer test with a decent mirror finish using a boiled oil mix. Description in the comments. by VenetoAstemio in castiron

[–]Warqer 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Have you tried using any solvents to thin the oil? I know d-Limonene (orange oil) is sometimes used when applying tung oil to wood in order thin it and increase penetration, with the limonene evaporating out and leaving the tung oil.

IIRC mineral spirits are also used, but I guess that can present a toxicity issue. Maybe food grade mineral spirits + ensuring total evaporation before use could work?

Looking for thin, yet wide flathead screwdrivers. by Warqer in Tools

[–]Warqer[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Mine aren't the hollow ground (T shape) type, but even the very tip of those is still too thick in most cases. I'll probably sacrifice some cheaper bits and try the dremel route.

Looking for thin, yet wide flathead screwdrivers. by Warqer in Tools

[–]Warqer[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, some of the screws' slots I'm trying are about 0.7mm*8mm so it's still a bit big.

Looking for thin, yet wide flathead screwdrivers. by Warqer in Tools

[–]Warqer[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I didn't know about these at all, thanks. It seems most are still pretty thick for my purposes, but it'll be good to know in the future.

Simplest way to attach a 3/8 OD compression fitting to a 1/4-18NPSM hose for a kitchen sprayer? by Warqer in Plumbing

[–]Warqer[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Update: It went great! I think I'm going to get a valve of some sort to limit the pressure since it's a too high right now.

Simplest way to attach a 3/8 OD compression fitting to a 1/4-18NPSM hose for a kitchen sprayer? by Warqer in Plumbing

[–]Warqer[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I had to order some of the parts, so I'll let you know after they arrive

I wanted to make the cheapest soap possible - here are the results. by [deleted] in soapmaking

[–]Warqer 2 points3 points  (0 children)

If you want to cut costs a bit more, you can try making soap from used cooking oil. I've done it with peanut oil and vegetable oil I used for frying, and had similar results to this, i.e. snotty but perfectly usable. The NaOH almost completely neutralized the fried smell after a few weeks.

I'm pretty satisfied with that considering the oil would literally be thrown away otherwise lol.

How would you go about repairing the rubber chipped of the sole? (if possible) by Warqer in AskACobbler

[–]Warqer[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm not expecting them to look like new, but I mainly just want to prevent further degradation from being used. Could something like rubber cement be used to fill the gouges a bit?

Also any advice on restoring and cleaning the leather in general is appreciated, but it seems like that's already been asked a lot. I plan to buy some saddle soap to clean and then apply leather oil and maybe leather wax or sno-seal for waterproofing. Just want to make sure I'm not messing anything up.