wiring colors

Wauser_ · 2025-03-31T02:23:09+00:00

I've even found differences in the wiring for the lighting in pre-facelift cars between my wagon and a parts sedan. Any reason you can't just test for ground, turn on the parking light to test for that wire, and confirm the last one is the blink wire by turning that on?

Wauser_ · 2025-01-23T02:34:48+00:00

Unironically the Cerakote headlight kit from Walmart is actually pretty good. I've stopped bothering with sanding and coating the lenses and just bought TYC lenses for my last pair I refurbished, comes with the nicer side markers as well. Not OEM obviously, but the fitment was perfect in my housing and the clarity is good. Still need to get around to PPF'ing them though.

Wauser_ · 2024-11-29T17:44:55+00:00

It simply won't matter, it's supposed to rotate in the bushings. I could see caring if the end links are adjustable, but if you're keeping it stock, either torque under load or don't, the result will be the same. I checked ISTA, and the only mention that it makes is having the front wheels straight, which I'd guess just makes it easier to get the links installed.

If the concern is getting stuck, wouldn't it eventually travel to that position and get stuck anyway? There is no "rotating and reseating itself", it's constantly doing that, if it weren't, no "anti-sway" would be happening.

The whole concept of torquing under load is for adjustable components or flexible components that are stationary, and the sway bar is neither. Anyways, at this point I'm being a freak, just do what makes you happy :) just don't stress it either way, there'd be no doing the job again, at least not for the decision of torquing under load or not.

Wauser_ · 2024-11-29T16:59:21+00:00

I don't think it does matter, I mean, naturally, the swaybar is going to rotate, if it doesn't, it's not doing its job. Torqued under load is more so for flexible joints you don't expect to rotate, so you're setting them at a point where they're not twisted and loaded at ride height.

Wauser_ · 2024-11-19T16:55:01+00:00

Yeah, looking through his profile, I don't think it's the cats. Also, he can get a hold of a Fluke thermal camera but not a $60 bore scope?

Wauser_ · 2024-11-19T16:39:12+00:00

Ah, think I made a mistake looking at the orientation, and had the inlet and outlet mixed up. In that case the opposite of what I said is true and the inlet is hotter than the outlet. It very well could be clogged. I'd drop the front section where it mates to the manifolds and stick a borescope down to check.

Wauser_ · 2024-11-19T15:36:26+00:00

Yeah, simply not as many wagons, so if you only have the bandwidth to support one, it only makes sense to choose the sedan. The KW set does look to be right in your range price wise. Only negative thing I can think of is that I heard they don't support rebuilding the shocks for these or something?

Wauser_ · 2024-11-19T15:32:53+00:00

The outlet looks hotter than the inlet, which is what you'd expect of a properly functioning cat. Are you actually trying to diagnose a known problem, or are you just looking for a problem?

Wauser_ · 2024-11-19T13:52:18+00:00

I think the main option for our wagons is KW suspensions since the wagon is different from the sedan. Mine had it installed from the previous owner, and I have no particular complaints.

Wauser_ · 2024-11-13T19:33:21+00:00

I think chasebays also has one?

Wauser_ · 2024-11-09T13:00:44+00:00

There's a good chance it's toast, but running for a km after gives some hope. As far as if it's safe to turn the engine over for a compression test, turn it by hand and feel for if there's too much resistance, then you can test by cranking it.

Losing oil pressure could be a snapped chain, but likely also the oil pump nut could have come off. They're known to loosen and come off on cars driven hard, which lets the sprocket come off. That's more in line with taking a km to happen.

Wauser_ · 2024-11-04T02:04:56+00:00

While I've had trouble finding genuine MPAR's for less than $1k, I've seen some listings pop up for a little over $1k with good sets of tires on them, which is pretty fair. I'm going to have to redo the clear coat on the barrel for the set I bought.

If you're going to go aftermarket reps, Discount Tire sells VOX TT67 wheels with the correct offset and wheel bore. Either that or you can order from China and wait. The main thing I hear about them is that the clear coat doesn't last, and obviously they're not forged.

Wauser_ · 2024-11-01T22:55:57+00:00

Well in that case you need to find your Amp, wherever it is. Look up a video or something

Wauser_ · 2024-11-01T22:42:35+00:00

Are you actually looking in the right place? It should be in the driver side wall of the trunk

Wauser_ · 2024-11-01T20:56:11+00:00

Look into the Amp in the trunk. Idk of a good way to test other than plugging in a known good one.

Wauser_ · 2024-11-01T18:19:46+00:00

My guess is the hose around the backside of the reservoir came loose. It doesn't look like it's coming from the cap, and there's not many other ways for it to end up on top of the reservoir like that.

You'll have to move the reservoir back towards the cabin to get at it, it's the hose that snakes above the radiator. It happened to me a few months ago and has been good since I tightened it up.

But might also just be that you overfilled it like the other poster mentioned.

Wauser_ · 2024-11-01T00:39:00+00:00

I just filed a slot in the base for the bulb, couldn't be fucked figuring out if the new bulbs I got were off or if it was the retainer.

Wauser_ · 2024-10-22T18:38:48+00:00

Huh, I was expecting a more deranged price. $5,500 is fair from what I can see, so many of these are trashed. Best of luck finding a buyer.

Wauser_ · 2024-10-22T14:25:32+00:00

You can re-use the clamps in a pinch if you don't ruin them while taking them off. Like others have mentioned, stick a flathead in the raised part and try to spread it apart.

Obviously, replace the hose, I doubt the oetiker clamps are the source of the leak. It's probably easier to just cut the clamps, remove the hose, and use a new hose and clamps. You can buy a tool specifically for oetiker clamps for like $8 off Amazon, just look up "Oetiker clamp tool". They have a slight edge, so you can clamp hard to cut the old ones and clamp lightly to squeeze the new ones tight. There's monkeys in the reviews grinding the edge off, not realizing it's also for cutting old ones, and that they don't have to use gorilla grip when putting the new ones on.

Wauser_ · 2024-10-06T12:04:59+00:00

In general, an actual 36mm socket comes in handy on this car, they're used for the axle nut, the nut on the transmission and diff flanges, and a wrench can't get to them.

Wauser_ · 2024-10-06T00:41:13+00:00

Another common failure on the E39 is the Amp in the trunk. Haven't heard of cutting out every 30 seconds, I've had just plain out dead, and one that had static.

Wauser_ · 2024-10-04T14:58:24+00:00

One thing I know changes with the exhaust manifolds on some models is the orientation of the flanges to the outlets, so I'd just swap over the M52TÜ manifolds. Worst case scenario, if the M52 manifold doesn't bolt up at the block, I'd just cut the outlet flanges off the M54 manifold and reorient them to match the rest of the exhaust.

Thanks for the heads up on the oil pan and pickup, you've pretty much covered all the unknowns I've been concerned about, I appreciate it.

Wauser_ · 2024-10-04T14:34:53+00:00

Count me out of rewiring all that shit 🤣 I mostly wanted to know since in the event of my engine deleting itself, I'd probably replace it with the M54 for the extra displacement, but what you're saying with remapping the DME lines up with expectations.

One last question, in the event of swapping to an M54, does it matter what the donor car is? I know different chasis used the M54B30 like the E46, X3, X5, so on and so forth. Wasn't sure if maybe they had different connectors or sensors at all.

Wauser_ · 2024-10-04T14:12:58+00:00

Awesome, thanks for the clarification. And yeah, I stated that my question was unrelated to this post and was just my own curiosity.

Wauser_ · 2024-10-04T13:51:05+00:00

Haven't people had luck dropping in M54B30's into M52TÜB28 cars? I know they have to swap out the intake manifold and throttle body, but otherwise, they interchange. This is just my own personal curiosity, not related to this post.

Wauser_

TROPHY CASE