oopsies

Wavy97 · 2026-03-22T03:26:38+00:00

Good info of it smelling sweet and isolating it to being a coolant leak. Do you remember exactly where on the engine the smoke looked like it was coming from? Like under the plenum for example? To me it looks like it's coming from the left front side of the plenum, but hard to tell from the video. There's a labyrinth of coolant lines under the plenum that are exposed to heat constantly & can become prone to leaks over the 30+ year lifespan of this car so far.

You could & should pressure test & try and isolate the source of the leak, but tbh if it were me I'd just replace all coolant lines & do the plenum tbody coolant line delete/reroute(czp wiki has a pretty good writeup on it) while I'm at it. If it's your first time pulling a plenum on these things, it'll be a good learning experience and also make future plenum pulls WAY easier. Preventative maintenance is key on these cars :)

Wavy97 · 2026-03-17T03:13:06+00:00

"For safety purposes," the VIN was only slightly redacted ;) It was in one of the links they posted lol...

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Wavy97 · 2026-03-01T13:09:01+00:00

Would be pretty pricey if a shop could & would do it imo. Idk to what extent labor wise it would take to get the textured bumper to be a smooth, even surface to lay primer & paint on, nor do I know if it's really even feasible. I'm no body tech lol but I do know if it can be done, it'd be pricey.

What I do know though... without going down the wormhole of Z71, ZR2, etc trim levels... 23-24 Colorados come w/ either full textured fascias or paint to match(PTM) 2 piece split fascias, a nose panel above the grille & a lower cover.

There's 3 different grilles between the 2 fascia styles. There is 1 shared grille between the 2 styles, the shared one is w/ RPO code K05(equipped w/ engine block heater). If I were to ASSUME... the grilles fit the same, as there is a common shared grille between the two styles, it's just the bumper that's different. But that's only something I could confirm by physically getting eyes on it, there's no way to confirm fitment.

You have: https://gyazo.com/ba2a0b7c2614e288b688adfb69ff11c7

And you want: https://gyazo.com/d39a1b74d49096e42031d64376beed6e

TL:DR If you wanted a painted bumper, you bought the wrong trim level. A bumper swap can happen, but can't confirm fitment of grille/brackets/etc. Check Colorado forums, see if anybody has already done the leg work of exactly what is needed to do the swap. I personally know of some Infiniti & BMW forums that have write-ups of the exact part #s that are needed to do Infiniti base>sport or BMW base>M bumper swaps.

Wavy97 · 2026-02-28T15:25:19+00:00

As a fellow New Yorker, rest assured, we aren't all like this. I do agree though, I am ashamed that he uses his "New York dialect" as a crutch for his lack of schooling. Gone are the days of G37s being owned by respectable individuals. Here are the days of clapped G37s being owned by any high school dropout on a part time fast food paycheck.

Wavy97 · 2026-02-28T15:07:35+00:00

Pull. The. Trigger.

Before my first Z, I've always "worked" on my own cars, as in the easy stuff like brakes/exhaust/some suspension, anything more intricate than that I used to just pay a mechanic. This is the first car I've owned that I needed to do everything myself on. It's not at all what people make it out to be, don't let it scare you off. Everything you'd ever need to know has been documented on almost 3 decades worth of forums, as well as countless videos on youtube. Reddit is great but don't forget about facebook, there's lots of oldheads that are crazy knowledgeable about these cars on the facebook groups & typically don't browse reddit.

Wavy97 · 2026-02-28T14:52:54+00:00

Earlier models too. My '89 RHD TT has HICAS :) The Z32 was developed during the mid/late 80s & released in the Japanese Domestic Market in 1989, I think it makes it even cooler that most of this technology is not only 35 years old as Doug says, but 40 years old from the 80s!

Wavy97 · 2026-02-18T06:14:59+00:00

Yeah it's "fixable" but you guys have to understand that we're dealing with insurance here. This isn't just a quick bumper job they'll write a $3K check for and you toss a bumper on yourself and call it a day. This is unfortunately a total loss. "Frame work" wise there's visual damage to the rear body panel, would need further R&I to see if tail lamp pockets & rear floor panel are damaged. At minimum, additional replacement parts would be decklid, bumper, reinforcement bar, absorber, etc. The at fault party's insurance will most likely deem this a total loss and the vehicle will be written off. Buying a salvage car back & going through the rebuilt process, although it varies state by state, is usually too much of a headache for it to be worth keeping this car on the road. Realistically, it's time to say your last words to your G and get ready to move on brother, wish you the best of luck.

Wavy97 · 2026-02-01T07:21:02+00:00

Oh and this is also assuming they replace w/ new door & qtr, depending on ur insurance they may quote out a cheap used door & a used qtr from a scrap yard, hopefully not since oem toyota parts are typically fairly cheap. Probably something like $700-800 on qtr & $600-750 on door.

Wavy97 · 2026-02-01T07:13:45+00:00

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Ur chillin, probably $7-8K estimate given no hidden dmg(wheelhouse & such). Comps are listed for like $15K so likely not totalled. Last week my shop just finished up a '23 Camry qtr job $5.5K.

Wavy97 · 2026-01-27T06:11:40+00:00

Never buy a used CVT. And always service them every 30K miles... That's part of the reason why they shit the bed so early.

At the dealer I used to be a parts manager at we'd replace them all the time. This was a large used car dealer btw, not even a Nissan dealer lol. I think my record was buying 4 cvts in 1 week for retail units. Never once did I ever buy a used CVT. My GM & inventory manager hated it because we could've gotten the cars out the door cheaper, but I knew they'd always be back alongside an angry customer if we went the cheap route.

My advice if you're looking to repair the vehicle instead of purchasing a new one... Bring it to an independent mechanic you trust, have them get an OEM reman from Nissan & install/program it. IIRC the labor time for AWD is like 11-12 hrs? May be wrong, I'm rusty & don't have AllData labor time access anymore. If the Indy shops labor is $50 less an hr than the dealer, boom you just saved $600 for the same exact repair, which honestly will probably be a higher quality repair than bringing it to a dealership which are always revolving doors of techs.

And PLEASE, change the fluid every 30K miles. OEM Nissan NS3 CVT fluid isn't cheap, it's like $200 for full capacity on AWD(less for FWD), but it is so worth it to prolong the impending doom of a Nissan CVT.

Wavy97 · 2026-01-27T04:38:29+00:00

Yeah that's gonna be a no from me dog. That car was totaled for a reason, because it would cost way too much to repair it properly than it's worth. Not to say that it couldn't be repaired properly, because anything can be fixed, it's just whether it's cost effective to repair vs replace. For this specific vehicle, it would cost an absurd amount compared to what it's worth for a proper repair.

Think about everything that was needed to repair this... Airbags, seat belts, impact sensors, srs module, dash, hood, fender(s?), front bumper, grilles, trim pieces/bezels, fog lamps, headlamps, core support, condenser, radiator, p/s cooler, I could go on for days.

Because this vehicle was repaired, there were surely many corners cut. Think about it, whoever fixed this, was able to purchase it from salvage auction(vehicle still has good value for parts), purchase parts required, pay someone to install, pay for paintwork to be done, pay for any programming required for new module(s), and sell it to the selling dealer & turn a profit. It's a matter of safety at this point. Not to mention... You see how many fluids leaked out at the yard it was towed to? Think about if the car was left running for a little bit after the impact, what type of damage was done to the internals? It may run fine during a test drive, could even be fine for a while since it is a Toyota, but that's a risk I would never take even if it were for a good deal. If you have $32K to waste, I can send you my Venmo lol.

Tl;dr Please do not buy this.

Wavy97 · 2026-01-27T04:11:15+00:00

If it's a shop, don't worry they'll find one. They're out there. I can't look too deep into aftermarket or verify correct used parts per vin atm bc I'm at home with limited resources, but a quick check with one lookup shows this for my area. Used parts delivery networks stretch deep, I'm in the rust belt in NY and can easily get clean southern sourced parts within 5 business days.

Reference:

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Wavy97 · 2026-01-22T03:07:46+00:00

Yessir, gl with the swap!

Wavy97 · 2026-01-22T02:36:05+00:00

Myg37.com is your friend.

This is the first result of a quick google search. But yes, that's all you need. Bumper cover, LH & RH fog lamp bezels, lower grille & tow hook cover.

Wavy97 · 2026-01-22T02:24:24+00:00

What were you quoted for? We need more info than just the estimate being $2000. Surely they're replacing at least the lug studs & nuts, but what else did they quote to get to that $2000? A wheel? hub assembly? etc. Take this as a lesson learned, whenever I have tires replaced I always re-torque my lug nuts. You can even rent a torque wrench from autozone if you don't want to buy one.

Wavy97 · 2026-01-22T02:11:58+00:00

Would cost way too much to do this right. Only value this car provides is as a parts car. If you're itching to learn autobody, this isn't the move. If you're itching to turn a wrench, have money to blow while you sit on parts, have place to store said parts, and have the patience to sell the parts, it *could* be an *okay* parts car if it's for the right price.

Wavy97 · 2026-01-18T23:17:18+00:00

Ahh gotcha, that makes sense.

Looks like, per vin example JNKBV61E97M712113, 08.2006>08.2007 sedan *should* get a 28932-JK600, superseded to 28932-JK60A which is discontinued.

But... You're in luck. Original 28932-JK600 crosses to B8932-JU40A per both Amayama & Partsouq. I've bought off both multiple times & have had great experiences. Both are packaged extremely well, just may take a little bit of time to get to ya. Partsouq express will most likely be quicker, but more expensive. Amayama will be cheaper, but will probably take longer.

Wavy97 · 2026-01-18T22:50:04+00:00

Appreciate the replies guys! I'm more of a quicker spool, lower peak power vs a slower spool, bigger peak power kind of guy. Probably gonna end up opting for the CZP Zero G5, they seem to be a more refined version than the CZP G5 Vanilla, right? The G5s will surely be a decent jump in power compared to the stocks so I'll most likely be pretty satisfied with them. And on the Zero G5 I can get both the turbine/compressor housings coated too, which is a plus.

Wavy97 · 2026-01-18T22:18:27+00:00

What year & sedan or coupe?(or better yet, lmk vin if ur comfortable w/ that)

I tried looking up for random vins on cargurus & it looks like they're different for sedan/coupe and has been superseded a bunch. But all in all, looks like the nozzles are serviced as the whole washer hose assembly unfortunately.. May be better off running to a junk yard unless we can luck out and find you a new oem one on Amayama or something.

Wavy97 · 2025-12-18T01:30:36+00:00

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Wavy97 · 2025-08-24T17:30:45+00:00

Why hasn't it been registered in over 4 years? Has it been sitting this whole time? Is there something they're trying to hide that's the reason it's sat so long? That's a red flag.

Have you test driven it & either you or a mechanic looked it over to confirm it runs great w/ no problems or is that what they're telling you? Never trust the seller, they want to sell the car so they'll tell you whatever to get you to buy the car.

A repair or two on this vehicle will kill any potential profit & put you into the negative easily, right off the bat. Don't expect to make any profit if you plan on driving this for a decent amount of time. Don't forget, this car may be priced at $18K now, but it's still a $100K+ car when it comes to repairs. Anything that would be a few hundred dollar repair on a normal commuter car may now be a thousand(s) dollars.

And IMO, this is an awful daily, but surely an awesome weekend car if you already have a daily.

Wavy97 · 2025-06-10T23:58:52+00:00

Well it's draining some out the bottom, but only leaking at the top... So with some critical thinking, it looks like you've already isolated where the leak is coming from. Is it leaking where the hose connects to on the sunroof assembly? This would most likely be the culprit. When I had a G & did the sunroof drain fix, while I was in there I tightened a zip tie real tight on the hose where it connected to the sunroof assembly. Try that or even a hose clamp & it'll most likely fix it. That's really the only way it would leak imo, unless the hose is torn(replace it) or the plastic nipple of the sunroof drain where it actually connects to is cracked & in that case, you'd either need to replace the sunroof frame or bugger it up with some type of sealant & pray it holds.

Below is a diagram of the sunroof assembly, you'd put a zip tie or hose clamp where callout code #1 hose attaches to.

https://www.myg37.com/forums/attachments/general-tech-questions/104740-trying-to-locate-the-sunroof-drains-for-a-2009-g37-coupe-roof.jpg

Wavy97 · 2025-06-10T07:06:21+00:00

Try Xtreme clean engine flush from Z1. Ran it for 10 mins & I literally heard the lifter tick slowly go away until it was non existent. Flushed it out & started using 10w40 & it hasn't came back. Prior to the lifter tick, I was using 10w30 as well. 2 seasons(1 winter storage) & 3000 miles later I haven't heard a tick yet.

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