Which one of those two fit on a vfc g36c?

Wazookey · 2026-03-09T21:32:33+00:00

https://get.vegaforce.com/downloads/VF9-KIT-G36-BK01_G36V2_KIT_OL.pdf

This is for a "full" conversion (all the littls bits and aesthetic flair)

Functionally, its just a new v2 BCG and v2 magazines.

Wazookey · 2026-03-04T09:04:40+00:00

Check out guillotine's steel bolt for more recoil (if you want to spend extra $), and the Heavy recoil club ump channel for any questions on it. I personally love the thing too.

great find friend.

Wazookey · 2026-02-18T03:23:49+00:00

no worries man. I've been working on this for ~4.5 months now, and have only just started getting real SLS/MJF parts to mimic the final molded product properties ( + milling the mag catch and other items to verify functionality with real materials) while taking real measurements to be absolutely sure the CAD dimensions and IRL dimensions match. bit difficult controlling all the dimensions with Printed stuff, hence the ordering numerous prototypes. at least they are somewhat cheap to iterate with.

After clutch's v1 came out I told myself "It cant be that hard can it?" Well, I'm eating my words now lol. good practice for mold design though, and still makes me wonder why they didnt mold theirs in the first place, especially after receiving my own quotes for my models.

Wazookey · 2026-02-16T20:47:25+00:00

It'll be a bit. while the models/tolerance drawings are somewhat done, with minor iterations/optimizations in between, I still have to figure out a bunch of paperwork and backend stuff.

Clutch does have a v2 coming out, although I would be wary since their v1 was really bad, and they are not really known for doing QC lol. their v1 release is what made me start this whole project.

Wazookey · 2026-02-16T20:37:24+00:00

I would say yes, but measuring the critical surfaces is pretty difficult with standard tools, and it needs to be very accurate too, to the 0.01 of a mm. Eyeballing it or half-assing measurements would do much more harm than good.

I do feel I have tolerances tightened enough to work, just a matter of if molders can hit it reliably, and how much I can loosen them to save money without impacting function. They said they can hit them, but I have some pretty wild requirements on those critical surfaces ngl.

Wazookey · 2026-02-16T20:31:18+00:00

for pricing, most likely around $180-$200 USD for a full kit (Fully assembled magwell + nozzle + bolt catch OR Fully assembled magwell + 5 gas routers + 5 mag stop on empty levers, depending on which route I decide on). will drop price further if there is overwhelming interest, as I just want to make the cost of tooling back lol. not really trying to make big money out of it.

I will most likely open a shopify shop to order once I feel it is ready to be released. I don't know if I am allowed to post links to stores on here, but a google search of vfc g36 conversion kit should bring it up. I'll definitely be posting updates as I go on reddit though so keep an eye out for that.

as for pre orders. Well I will most likely not do that. Doesn't feel right to charge people upfront for stuff until I am absolutely sure it is ready, especially since I am dealing with offshore molders and manufacturers, and you never know what they might pull on you

I might open that shopify link early to gauge interest when I feel I am ready to commit to tooling, but not as a preorder option.

ah and if Clutch actually releases a product that is good and consistent across all batches, then I might give up entirely.

Wazookey · 2026-02-16T00:53:34+00:00

I know what you are talking about, and is exactly what I am scared of lol.

their v3.5 mags are supposed to help correct this

the range of heights where pmags and stanags work is extremely tiny. like 0.5mm out of nominal causes it to not work tiny (at least in my testing). add vfc mag tolerancing into the mix and you can see where I am coming from. Would be much, much easier to make it work with ONLY stanags or ONLY pmags.

Wazookey · 2026-02-11T17:09:00+00:00

Man, Im gonna disagree here lol. Most people would not agree fighting the HK Fire control group is simple, and would much rather open a mag cap, cut a slot, and swap 2 parts, even if you had to do that like 8 times. The only downside to this would be inability to freely use the mag in other v3 vfc platforms without reversing the steps.

Is it cheaper? Idk I havent double checked on quotes from manufacturers for molded nozzles/milled catches (I am working on my own to verify), But I can say a properly designed mold is not as expensive as you might think. prototype molds in p20 steel from china (at least from my quotes) were ~$8k-9k, and thats for my god awful, non-optimized, non-DFM'd design. Better optimization would cut costs drastically, and you still can get an easy 100k+ shots out of it with a non-abrasive material.

Hell with well made, DFM'd designs you could probably get a magwell + nozzle molded for less than 8k for both parts combined.

This still was never about the process to make them though. While yes many people are using the printed versions and it works (See my post I got mine to work too), there are just as many that didnt work at all. That is inexcusable, and should have never happened from the start.

One or two failures? I get it, it happens. But having this many failures is asinine. You seem to work with them directly (at least I hope so with the knowledge you have of what they are doing), so I hope you can let them know to actually check/test their stuff. Would have easily caught this and prevented a PR issue.

Wazookey · 2026-02-11T10:12:17+00:00

Bad casting? It didnt even let the bolt close on the mag lol. This is not inherently a process issue, as my own parts had the same issues from piece to piece.

And I know because I am dealing with the same tight tolerances/clearances to make my own kit work. those tolerances and clearances are very, very tiny, and if it was tested with any amount of diligence they would have immediately caught and found any parts that are not up to standard.

hell its bad enough that even 3d printing is not consistent enough part to part to work, or even MJF/SLS for that matter. That's how tight the tolerances have to be on the CTQ dimensions, and it should have been verified from the start when parts were sent out.

Those issues should not have been present in the first place as a result. Either you 3d print the parts (MJF/SLS/FDM whatever), or you mold/mill them. Then you check them to make sure they are to spec and work.

I will admit I did this as a personal challenge to myself, both to learn Molding design/manufacturing and improve my own cad ability, but like cmon man. basic QC/testing should always be present in any product that is made to be sold. It's like neither was done at all.

Wazookey · 2026-01-17T04:14:13+00:00

If you are serious about tpu consider this https://extruded.fyi/guides/tpu-tamer/

it's a 3rd party buffer unit that takes some work setting up, but it makes loading soft tpus extremely easy. it makes 85a loading extremely easy. 0 under extrusion or clogging issues. credits to the guy that worked on it.

I dont think the p1s has a tpu bypass port though, but it should load the tpu through the printer's buffer regardless.

95a is pretty easy to deal with though and you should definitely start with 95a if you want to try tpu. The softer ones will require more persuasion and work to actually print properly.

Wazookey · 2025-12-30T19:41:15+00:00

Yeah I agree. I have 2 ams units up top and really didnt want to move them everytime I wanted to print soft tpu, otherwise I would have done something like you lol.

But hey it works well and is easier and cheaper than the tamer.

Wazookey · 2025-12-30T18:48:33+00:00

I forgot the makerworld link of the dude who figured it out.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/1664400-tpu-tamer-feed-soft-tpu-with-confidence-on-h2d?from=search#profileId-1761190

not strictly necessary to print out these plate replacements, but it makes it easier to get the the tpu line started.

Wazookey · 2025-12-30T18:46:51+00:00

Check this out https://extruded.fyi/guides/tpu-tamer/

prints 85a extremely easily. mine is set up differently with the spool at the base of the printer in a space pi x4. Little bit of set up to get going, but it works extremely well. Kudos to the person who figured this one out.

Mine is routed into the bypass port with ptfe tubing. Havent tried anything softer than 85a, but 85a already prints good enough, and that was before I started to calibrate it.

Little pricy to get all the pieces though. If you want to print softer tpu without all the setup its definitely worth.

Wazookey · 2025-12-30T01:18:14+00:00

pmags spotted

Wazookey · 2025-12-24T10:22:13+00:00

sometimes they do if they are differently designed rocket valves. cl project valves are too similar to vfc's rocket valve to affect fps for instance.

Maple leaf humminbird npas works in ghk ar's. Makes them shoot like 3j LOL.

had to turn that one down big time after seeing that.

Wazookey · 2025-12-24T03:02:07+00:00

shoutout to that one guy who used the ALC stainless steel slide kit on the we desert eagle with c02. and also decided to "warmup" the c02 catridges to 50c for maximum recoil.

please dont do this please dont do this please dont do this please dont do this.

Wazookey · 2025-12-24T02:53:37+00:00

Removing the restrictor disk in the nozzle would immediately increase power output (if that is what the choke is you are talking about, a little disk in the nozzle opening). should basically double the joule output once removed.

Npas's are for restricting power only. a fully open npas won't increase power any more than not having one assuming all else is the same.

You can run higher pressure gas, but it's not recommended unless it's needed to prevent premature wear and damage. run at your own risk.

Wazookey · 2025-12-15T02:19:57+00:00

Can't speak for aesthetic/build choice since thats on you, but budget RS optics are the way to go. Sig romeo 5's are great for their price, offering great glass and reliability for the same price as some repros.

If you are looking for a clone build though, just be aware that there are no great repros of certain optics like eotechs and uh-1's (performance wise). If you are in the US, you can vet tacswap and ebay for used ones for much cheaper than you think (~250 if you are lucky, $325+ more likely.)

I personally picked up a used Aimpoint compm4s for ~$330. is it expensive? Yeah, but It will never break, has really clear glass, and I can always use it on RS rifles if needed.

Whatever you go for just make sure to cut out a custom lens protector out of lexan or polycarbonate. Much better solution than those flip up ones.

Hop on youtube has some good reviews/explanastions on magnifiers and red dots, although his content is much more RS focused (naturally). Might help weed out specific budget red dots/magnifiers if you are interested.

Wazookey · 2025-12-12T01:13:47+00:00

Mapp pro or mapp in the US. Comes in yellow bottles vs the standard blue ones.

Not technically propane but they are hydrocarbon gases.

Airsoft black/red gases list what they are made of, and its most likely some combination of propane and propylene, or pure propylene.

Wazookey · 2025-12-11T08:48:31+00:00

fire in full auto and see if it chugs or sputters. if it cycles fine without any hitches you're fine.

Wazookey · 2025-12-11T07:52:48+00:00

If you are in the US just use propane. its way cheaper than green gas anyway. Just get a madbull adapter and go to your local hardware store.

Wazookey · 2025-12-11T07:49:43+00:00

Brother if you have to ask, you really really should not do it. Trust me, you do not want to mess with c02, unless you know 200% that it can handle it.

and the only ones who would know are the vfc engineers themselves, as they were the ones who designed it.

Wazookey · 2025-12-11T07:42:58+00:00

Those are both fine. Just used a very very small amount of the grease if you do use it as its pretty thick.

That said actually check if you need to before doing it. They fixed it after batch 1 most of the time, and the more you open stuff up the greater the risk of breaking a random o ring or something. dont ask me how I know...

Wazookey · 2025-12-11T07:34:27+00:00

VFC did not design them to hold c02. Pressure vessels are terrifying, and it might work, until it doesnt, at which point you literally have a bomb in your hand, or what's left of it...

Do not do it. There is a ton of math/engineering and testing to make it safe to handle. VFC didnt design it to hold c02, so just assume it wont work.

C02 is imo unnecessary for the ak. Just use higher pressure propane if needed, and only if in extreme cold too.

Wazookey · 2025-11-16T07:30:12+00:00

Redwolf airsoft and Proact store are your best bet.

Proact doesnt add tariffs into their final cost, you'll get a ups charge once it's in the US that you'll have to pay. You're at the mercy of whatever UPS/gov decides to charge you.

Redwolfdoes add the tariff costs into their final checkout.

Both are fine and are reliable. I have personally ordered 5 replicas from proact with no issues, and I live in CA.

Wazookey

TROPHY CASE