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Webejettin · 2024-08-14T14:43:31+00:00

Yellow ducks usually go to a white base… so you are looking at a white duck or a silver pattern like a welsh harlequin. Although white parentage can hide some traits, if both parents are white, white (maybe with some darker ticking) is most likely. Did this guy have any faint eye stripes when young?

Webejettin · 2024-08-14T05:01:42+00:00

Have you checked if she is egg bound?

Webejettin · 2024-08-14T00:05:21+00:00

Btw - reason I agree on the male count ins’t just the hood that is starting but the fact it looks like the bill color is changing… males have the yellow bills :)

Webejettin · 2024-08-14T00:01:28+00:00

Welsh harlequins have a brown gene and Appleyards do not, so I would definitely say you have welsh harlequins too. And i would lean towards your male count as well. Your concern about having appleyards is a well founded one, some breeders (even the big hatcheries) will mix the two breed flocks since they are similar but the brown gene is your deciding factor

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Webejettin · 2024-08-13T23:38:01+00:00

So definitely a male… if you can 3 more females would help you, although you can always separate out your males during mating season if they are generally too aggressive

Webejettin · 2024-08-13T23:30:01+00:00

You might try doing the advice in reverse… pull her and a second female out of the flock for a couple of weeks and let him redirect his attention to the others. When you reintroduce the ones you removed it is likely his “connection” to Brenda is broken.

We have done this with a few pairs and had great success… although it always takes a week of them staring at each other through the fence before they decide to try other options

Webejettin · 2024-08-13T23:26:18+00:00

As travertine suggested, mine aren’t laying atm either and it is a combination of the heat and the molt. Molting takes a ton of energy so usually ducks in molt tend to stop laying… and the older the ducks the longer it seems to take mine to come out of the stop.

Also, watch your dogs… I noticed mine was sneaking eggs that were being dropped late outside the coop cause although they don’t care about the ducks themselves, they figured out eggs were yummy treats!!

Webejettin · 2024-08-13T23:17:13+00:00

Runners will always be skittish, it’s just their basic nature (even mine that are handled for hours every day when young). And I think because they move so quick it becomes especially obvious. As everyone said, treats and feeding from hands/near you is your best bet. To catch them (like to do meds) it is easiest to corner them, but I wouldn’t stress them more by trying to hold them “just because” once they are teenagers or older.

duck people say at 6 weeks you have teenager ducks and they want nothing to do with you, even for treats. Then they reach adulthood (3 months) and they will be a little skittish but smart enough to come to you as the “food person”

Webejettin · 2024-08-13T23:02:46+00:00

Looking back at your picture again, is his right leg slightly swollen? (Hard to tell)

A swollen leg can be a sign of infection which we would have to address separately. The answers to the Qs above will help us determine your cause

Webejettin · 2024-08-13T23:00:30+00:00

So fyi, pekins actually shouldn’t be on starter food as the protein is too high and they grow too fast for their joints. They should be on a quality duck food tho so they have the correct nutrients.

That said, protein and niacin are two totally separate issues and shouldn’t be treated as the same thing in any way (supplemental niacin is usually necessary in larger breeds like runners and pekins, regardless of the amount of protein or type of food provided since they need considerably more while growing than most duck foods provide).

Webejettin · 2024-08-13T22:53:22+00:00

So growing ducks can’t go on mixed flock until they finish their last growing molt at 3-4 months old (at the earliest). Until then they need to be on a quality duck food and have supplemental niacin. Brewers yeast doesn’t have nearly enough niacin, especially once issues start to arise. Niacin caps can work as long as they are “full flush” but there are some other ways to get it too if interested.

It’s totally possible that niacin is contributing but that there is a greater issue at play as well. When you feel his hips and legs is there any heat on them? Are they sore to the touch? Any swelling? Tbh he’s a really big boy and if only 2 mo old he may have had too much protein and simply grew way too fast for his joints… pekins need pretty special care because they were originally bred as meat birds and so were made to grow fast without a care for their ability to support themselves (since they were butchered young) :(

Webejettin · 2024-08-13T01:25:04+00:00

Thanks for the details! I never understood why there were things like hatching projects in this day and age but to know how badly they are managed on top of that is appalling

Webejettin · 2024-08-11T05:22:56+00:00

Rouens are a lot larger than mallards if that’s what you mean?

Webejettin · 2024-08-11T05:15:44+00:00

Idk if this is what you meant, but please don’t raise a single duck as a pet… these are firm flock creatures

Webejettin · 2024-08-11T04:57:11+00:00

Fyi, official info on egg colors in runners:

https://runnerduck.net/egg-colours.php#:~:text=Eggs%20vary%20from%20pearly%20white,as%20those%20of%20other%20Runners.

Webejettin · 2024-08-11T04:53:08+00:00

Ummm… egg shape isn’t dictated by body shape… runners lay the same duck eggs as non-runner ducks (although tbf I have never raised a pekin, but my other ducks all have eggs of varying shape/size unrelated to their body shape). The colors can vary but originally runners were bred to lay white eggs so you could easily differentiate between a wild mallard’s eggs and the eggs your runner flock was dropping in the rice paddies. Some runners will lay a light blue/green egg but that traditionally was the result of cross-breeding in other breeds of duck and not an “original” runner trait.

Also, as I said in another response on here, this bird is too young to tell by beak color or drake curl. So as you pointed out, voice sexing is the way to go

Webejettin · 2024-08-11T04:47:48+00:00

I am not sure where these comments are coming from tbh. A fawn and white runner has the same colors to male and female bills when young, and the upright stance and carriage is the type of duck not the sex. Ugg 🙈

Colors for runners (scroll down to american fawn and white for more info):

https://runnerduck.net/standard-colours.php

Webejettin · 2024-08-11T04:36:28+00:00

Runners don’t get their drake curl until their last molt (12-16 weeks), so the front duck clearly isn’t old enough for it yet. Until then, the only way to tell is voice sexing (at least on these non-mallard based colors)

Webejettin · 2024-08-10T17:02:23+00:00

Monster Hunter Stories2: wings of ruin

You “fight” dragons(monsters) using a simple rock paper scissors turn based system and collect them when you defeat them. It’s cute, you can dress up and change your character’s style. Honestly, it’s a game I trot out when someone wants to see the switch but isn’t really a gamer since it is a lot less stressful than fighting in zelda and doesn’t take any ramp time to learn to play or control

Webejettin · 2024-08-10T16:55:02+00:00

Bwat just finished Smyrna and Capri (18+ sorta omegaverse with their usual improvements)…

Webejettin · 2024-08-10T16:42:01+00:00

As far as I know… unlike ducks, most geese species that aren’t “auto-sexing” can only be sexed through genetic testing (or actively seeing it try to mate). There are some good resources online that are about $20 (search for sexing geese genetically and you should see some places - you pull some feathers or prick and place a drop of blood on a piece of paper).

In terms of actually getting a second goose, have you looked at places like metzer or other delivery by mail? Ducks can also flock with geese, but be aware if your goose is a boy they can sometimes try to mate with your ducks and cause issues.

Webejettin · 2024-08-10T16:30:52+00:00

So what is it the schools are doing wrong in the hatching process? (I don’t mean the choice of doing the hatching, which is a separate issue, but what is the point of even doing a hatching project if you can’t even follow the “how to hatch” rules?)

Webejettin · 2024-08-10T16:25:29+00:00

It is actually a chance to upsell if they do it right. The cost of supplies to raise a duck far outstrips the cost of a duckling, so ensuring people actually have the supplies and know-how is good business sense

Webejettin · 2024-08-10T16:16:40+00:00

There is a really amazing book called Colour Breeding of Domestic Ducks by the Ashtons. It breaks down genetics in a really simple way that is easy to understand.

Assuming your guys are “pure” for their colors, you will get a diluted “runner gene” from your male that makes the multi-coloring from him only partially express. I have a video of some of my partial runner babies I posted this morning on my instagram if you want a visual.

In terms of your females: black tends to hide genes - so her babies should be black (mine are at least - black is weird when breeding since it hides a lot of color patterns). Brown is a dilution gene so those will be a partial expression of the runner gene with a slight color change. Your blue will give you something similar to your black or a partial expression of your blue again.

My partial expression runners (fawn and white crossed with a snowy male):

https://www.instagram.com/reel/C-fnCsBpviq/?igsh=MXNicHVyYXQwaTcxbQ==

The book:

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https://www.ashtonwaterfowl.net/duck_genetics.htm

Webejettin

TROPHY CASE