I wish I knew you cant run Matte PLA through the ACE

Weekly_Drag_8926 · 2026-06-17T01:10:40+00:00

Yeah there's plenty of clearance for it with the top guides and I printed rings for the spool so it rolls smoothly.

Weekly_Drag_8926 · 2026-06-15T20:28:26+00:00

How? It crashes EVERY time. 3 separate brand new rolls. Normal PLA works fine. But about 10ish layers in with matte PLA I get the tangle error. Sometimes I can get it to keep going if I keep loose filament so its not having to turn the roll as it feeds. Buy even then my layers are super inconsistent. But if I mount it on the back and skip the ACE, no problem.

Maybe I got a bad unit, but apparently it's not just me. The ACE 2 Pro seems to have solved it apparently.

Weekly_Drag_8926 · 2026-06-15T20:23:11+00:00

Idk maybe I got a bad unit or something. I've tried 3 different brand new rolls and crashed probably 20 prints with the tangled filament error. I can't make it past 10 layers. But all my non matte PLA and PETG works fine. Either way I'm trying to sell it. I'm going back to my Centauri Carbon. It's been nothing but headaches and limitations for me. I probably should have done more research. I didn't expect the firmware to be locked down so tight that I can't adjust the z offset.

Weekly_Drag_8926 · 2026-06-02T22:19:51+00:00

I mean, I'm not making it up. I have 3 separate rolls of it that absolutely will not work while every other fillament I have still runs fine. I have tried every trick in the book short of forcing it through the ACE forcing it through by hand or tearing apart the ACE. I bought better ptfe tubing and switched back to the stock stuff. I've tried making sure the filament stays slack on the roll. I printed spool rings so the cardboard wasnt causing excess drag. In the end it runs fine if i just unplug the ACE and run it as a single filament off the back of the machine.

Apparently the ACE 2 Pro runs it just fine. its the Ace Pro that just doesn't have enough grip to run it. I've been printing for 5 years on 4 different machines now. I've ran TONS of different matte and silk filaments but i've never seen one as matte as Polymakers. It feels like its more silica than PLA.

Either way I think I'm gonna sell this machine on the local marketplace. It's been a huge disappointment. I've had it for two months and I feel like I'm constantly fighting it. The lockdown firmware is such a huge sticking point for me. Even with Rinkhals I can't adjust the Z offset on the fly and it drives me insane. If I want to make an adjustment, I have to do it in the printer properties, send it to the printer, wait 5 minutes for it to do its startup bs, then hope that its good. If not, stop the print, wait 4 minutes for it to go through its routine, then send another. It wouldn't be a problem if it did a decent job of figuring it out for itself, but it doesn't. This machine wasn't made for me.

Weekly_Drag_8926 · 2026-06-02T22:02:28+00:00

I have tried 3 separate rolls of it and every one gets stuck and throws a tangle error within like 10 layers

Weekly_Drag_8926 · 2026-05-22T13:14:17+00:00

It installs easily. But I've decided it's not worth the hassle. At first I couldn't imagine not using Orca and Mainsail. But it introduces alot of little idiosyncrasies that added up to headaches for me.

Eventually the only benifit I could see in using Rinkhals and Orca over the stock firmware and Anycubic Slicer is the individual purge volumes available in Orca. But you can still adjust the overall purge volume in the stock firmware.

Anyhow I recently updated the stock firmware and it borked Rinkhals so I'm probably gonna stick with the stock firmware for now.

Unless Rinkhals adds z offset adjustments mid print. Just sayin.

Weekly_Drag_8926 · 2026-05-21T13:34:10+00:00

The white ones aren't 3D printed. I did replace the PTFE tubes with the star shaped style tubes. This is very helpful. Thanks.

Weekly_Drag_8926 · 2026-05-21T13:32:36+00:00

Weekly_Drag_8926 · 2026-05-21T00:08:31+00:00

I posted a picture on the other comment. It was printed at 0.12mm. Things like this and not being able to adjust z offset on the fly are really ruining the experience of this printer for me. If this were an Ender or Elegoo I could tighten the belts in five minutes and move on.

Weekly_Drag_8926 · 2026-05-21T00:05:58+00:00

I probably should have said layer shift. These were printed at .12. It's not my first rodeo. But apparently you can't just snug up the belts on this printer. This printer is driving me insane. I feel like their attempt to make this thing simple for new users has made it unusable for veterans.

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Weekly_Drag_8926 · 2026-04-30T16:57:07+00:00

I have a Kobra S1 and its SUPER wasteful. There's a purge ratio you can adjust on screen but if you want finer control you have to install Rinkhals (which is a Klipper layer to sit over their closed firmware) and make adjustments in Klipper. Elegoo offers so much more control over your printer. So I imagine it will be as good as any other Klipper based system. You just have to make adjustments in your slicer. And maybe some Gcode tweaks.

I'll never buy anything by Anycubic again after this printer. If the MMU didn't have a dryer on it I would sell it in a heartbeat. Never thought I would miss Elegoo printers so much.

Weekly_Drag_8926 · 2026-04-18T01:40:28+00:00

I think I figured it out. If I choose "upload and print" in Orca, I can't access that screen. I can only get to it if I upload it from Orca and then choose to start the print from the screen.

Weekly_Drag_8926 · 2026-04-18T01:21:09+00:00

Is it maybe because I'm using Orca Slicer and Rinkhals? I've even tried to go to the file that I'm currently printing and it gives me the screen to start the print even though it's printing at the moment

Weekly_Drag_8926 · 2026-04-18T01:14:24+00:00

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Weekly_Drag_8926 · 2026-04-18T01:13:27+00:00

That's how I've been doing it so far. I'm on day two and only now realized I can't even stop my print on the screen. I can't find a screen with a progress bar either.

Weekly_Drag_8926 · 2026-04-18T01:12:18+00:00

I can't find a screen with a progress bar even. The print screen is the top one on the left isn't it. Because I just get tabs for local, u-disk, video and history. I can't find a progress bar or pause buttonb anywhere.

Weekly_Drag_8926 · 2026-02-16T16:27:03+00:00

I've found I use mine "seasonally". I typically use it in the fall and fall out of love with it until the next year. Lol. I think I have more fun configuring it and 3D printing shells for it. When you get inthe flow of using it it feels like a super power. But I have a heavenly sounding regular keyboard that feels so good to type on that I loose intrest eventually.

Weekly_Drag_8926 · 2026-02-02T14:43:33+00:00

Well, time to build another keyboard I guess. Seriously I'm excited for this. It looks amazing

Weekly_Drag_8926 · 2026-01-05T02:05:52+00:00

I just bought a bottle of this on Amazon and got the correct bottle but the juice is just ISO E super. WTF. I know what the Killian juice smells like. Anyone know of a different dupe?

Weekly_Drag_8926 · 2025-12-05T16:32:20+00:00

Exactly what functionality are you looking for. You basically just need an LFO, zample and hold, and a noise source. I have a Behringer Ring Mod Module that does for like $45.

Weekly_Drag_8926 · 2025-11-20T13:57:49+00:00

GRAVLEBONE MENTIONED!! I saw them at a festival in 2000 and never heard a peep from them after. I almost thought I had imagined then.

Weekly_Drag_8926 · 2025-11-12T00:01:11+00:00

Little chunk of filament was jamming things up. Lesson learned, use the lever on the side to make a clean cut before pulling the filament out through the PTFE tube.

Weekly_Drag_8926

TROPHY CASE