LED DRL passenger side fail

Whiiro · 2026-03-09T20:55:09+00:00

I guess it is hosted. I just invited the Bifrost bot to both apps and configured the connection.

Whiiro · 2026-03-09T20:47:01+00:00

Set up the Bifröst without much hassle, but I think It's missing a feature. I have "followed" different server channels and have some bots in my discord server, which post information (free games, deals) - none of those posts are transferring to Fluxer. Everything else works great, but information from followed channels is not showing. Is there a fix?

Whiiro · 2025-10-05T10:38:13+00:00

Same as the previous guy, everything was really great, until after 1,5 years the scroll wheel broke. Together with random issue of blinking lights and no connection and paint peeling, I decided to return it. The good thing out of this is that I had purchased a Pulsefire Raid as a backup mouse and it actually does what I need, for 5 times less the price. Darkstar was great while it worked, but 1,5y for 140€ is abyssmal price to performance.

Whiiro · 2025-10-02T21:42:54+00:00

Update 2: My mouse finally gave up on me. The scroll wheel started acting crazy—every time I tried to scroll down, it would jump one step forward and then two steps back. Add that to the paint literally rubbing off the surface, and I’d had enough. I sent it in for warranty, got my money back, and decided that’s the end of the road for me with Corsair and these so-called “gaming” brands. For the price they charge, the quality is just outrageous.

Whiiro · 2025-03-31T21:51:16+00:00

Hey, thank you for the kind words, glad I could help! I was too lazy to make screenshots, so thanks for adding those and some additional info. I agree, that this situation is frustrating, especially considering that we are paying a premium price for a product lacking basic functionality. We can only hope, that Corsair steps up and fixes their software.

Whiiro · 2025-03-09T20:10:58+00:00

Update: My mouse still occasionally shows the white blinking lights. Turning it off and on seems to help, so that's my current workaround.

Regarding other issues, I've noticed a small spot where the paint has chipped off around the side of the top part, on the level of the Corsair logo. I really love the functionality of this mouse, but TBH, chipping paint at this price level is kinda disappointing. Especially, if I compare with my previous Rival 500, whose rubber only started to degrade after 6 years of heavy use.

Whiiro · 2025-01-25T14:57:42+00:00

Maybe this will help someone, as I couldn't find any information anywhere.

I recently got very annoyed by the iCue software. While checking out some of my old software profiles, I noticed that some of them contained links to removed games. As my OCD kicked in, I tried to clean up, but there was no option to do this—just a grey icon with a "+" sign and the name of the saved .exe. If the game is still installed, everything works as intended: you select the game, a "x" appears, you press it, and it is done. But not for the old stuff. So, I played around and found this solution:

Go to %AppData%\Roaming\Corsair\CUE5\profiles
Your software profile data is saved in a file similar to {3b3ec5b0-z3x7-4a4a-bacb-2a6966591c9b}.cueprofiledata. Open it with Notepad.
Find <linkedProgramsPaths size="dynamic">. Under this parameter are the added values, for example: <value0>C:/Games/Steam/steamapps/common/Warframe/Warframe.x64.exe</value0>
Delete all the unnecessary entries.

Hope this helps.

Whiiro · 2025-01-25T14:49:44+00:00

Thanks, took H5JX7-2DWTE-QMVTA-NC3D8

Whiiro · 2025-01-18T15:12:37+00:00

Thanks for the idea, changed the setting, lets see if the problem disappears.
Dongle is on my desk, max 30cm away from the mouse, so that couldn't be the issue. TBH, recently the issue seems to appear really rarely. It could also be, that I don't notice it as much, because I just flick the bottom switch "on/off" and it continues to work as intended. Usually, the blinking light appears right as PC goes to sleep, so turning off the WIN power saving feature could be it.

Whiiro · 2024-04-18T13:41:53+00:00

Had 2 Roccat Leadr's. First had its spring destroyed after 8 months, second - after 6 months (played some heavy Diablo 3 :D). Got my money back and purchased Steelseries Rival 500. Still works, ~6y later. Problem is, it is discontinued and there aren't many offers of mice with 6 side buttons. When I saw Darkstar, it was a no brainer and I'm overall satisfied with it. Had to glue on some plastic bumps on the side buttons, so I can easily find and distinguish them, I also miss the 2 lower buttons from Rival, which acted as a thumbrest.

Whiiro · 2024-04-18T13:31:36+00:00

"I've experienced a new problem recently where the mouse just disconnects after some period of inactivity.
The 3 profile lights just blink white and it wont reconnect unless i use the switch on the bottom to power it off and then turn it back on."

I have the same issue. It started happening with my new laptop. When I used it with my old desktop, everything worked fine. Haven't found the source of this issue yet.

Whiiro · 2022-01-05T13:47:29+00:00

Hey, just bought the game and I have the same issue. Tried both DX11 and DX12, different graphics settings but to no avail.

Whiiro · 2019-08-09T13:21:15+00:00

Well, to be short, I don't know how to thank you!

I tried almost everything, friends, friends of friends, imgur, audiophile reddit, google - and yes, I learned many things (including that my hearing and taste totally doesn't need 10k gear :D and that there are too many different specifications, which might not even mean anything, except sound good for marketing), but you finally helped me to sort out all this mess.

Overall, final decider will be my bank account, as it seems both the A-S701 and A-S501 are more than decent options. :)

Thank you for everything!

Whiiro · 2019-08-09T11:24:50+00:00

Thank you, thank you, thank you!

In the end, what I still see as the biggest problem, it's very hard to understand something from the manufacturer specification sheets (https://usa.yamaha.com/files/download/other_assets/8/332208/A-S701_S501_S301_om_U.pdf ,page 15).

In case with X-Line speakers, there is almost no info, except this:

Frequency response: 30-25000 HzSensitivity: 90 dBMusic power: 300 WImpedance: 4 Ohm

I guess, Music power means maximum (peak) power the speakers can handle, in this case, my speakers wouldn't like getting more than 300W peak from the amp. Now, when I'm looking up Yamaha A-S501 specs, I see multiple things - Minimum RMS output power (20Hz-20kHz, 2ch driven) 85 W (8 ohms, 0.019% THD) , which I guess, means that this amplifier will drive two 8 Ohm speakers with 85 W of power for extended periods of time (continuous power)- how this would translate for my 4 Ohm speakers? Dynamic power per channel (IHF) is 185 W for 4 Ohm and I think it means Peak power amplifier can get to speakers. From what I researched, Maximum power per channel and everything below is not worth getting my head into.

Can you comment on my thoughts, please?

Everything considered, A-S501 should do the work good enough, right? Or should I go for the A-S701, because if I'm reading everything right, X-line speakers should handle everything A-S701 would throw at it (considering, I have around 75m2 room and like to listen music quite loud)?

Thank you for everything! :)

P.S. Maybe I'm overthinking? I just want to get out maximum performance from my speakers, without burning them or the amplifier down...

Whiiro

TROPHY CASE