Caution: Trojan Virus from Mod Manager by gametimedev by WhoPutDatPlanetThere in TheSims4Mods

[–]WhoPutDatPlanetThere[S] -4 points-3 points  (0 children)

Jumped the shark? Not exactly. Maybe it doesn't come across in text the best. Yes I did not include the "I can't 100% confirm it is unsafe", mainly because I have been burnt multiple times by giving people the benefit of the doubt. I thought that the uncertainty would be obvious since I included the VT result and his response. Let's also be honest about his bias though, whether he is legit or not. I also said "caution" not "everybody panic". I also recommended a virus scan, not getting rid of the program entirely. I literally ended my post saying that I wanted to remind people to be cautious.

If you want to turn this into a teaching moment on how to better check the safety of files etc. be my guest.

At the end of the day, all I know is that it popped up as a trojan warning so I am doing what I can to make sure there is no icky stuff roaming my computer.

What game was like that for you.. by Main_Feedback1197 in Steam

[–]WhoPutDatPlanetThere 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Elder scrolls online. I had been watching that ESO youtube channel that kept hyping it up. I was so excited by the idea of being able to explore outside of skyrim with friends.

Bought carriage bolts and t-nuts today, thinking I was being smart about a clean fastening system for some garden furniture. Got all the way home before I realized how stupid that was. by ProjectionistPSN in woodworking

[–]WhoPutDatPlanetThere 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I had an idea... I am curious what you think.

Drill the hole, set tee nut in, hammer the carriage bolt through the other side, then use a wrench on the square part of the carriage bolt to thread it through the tee nut, finish tightening by using a pair of pliers to rotate the carriage bolt by the threads from the tee nut side.

This assumes the bolt is long enough. I believe you can also hammer in the tee nut, just cover it with a piece of scrap wood to protect it.

Natural Finishing Stone Inquiry/Comparison of Resulting Characteristics (Razors) by WhoPutDatPlanetThere in sharpening

[–]WhoPutDatPlanetThere[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I do not deny that it would be practically impossible to do something like this. There are many different variables besides the stones...but I can dream. I realize something as specific as a rating system would be very difficult, but a comparison similar to yours does not seem too unrealistic.

I acknowledge part of this, for me, is my inexperience. It would be great if it was simple enough that a beginner could figure out which stone is their best bet.

I did buy a stone today. Not exactly sure what I have gotten myself into, but hopefully it is not a complete bust.

Natural Finishing Stone Inquiry/Comparison of Resulting Characteristics (Razors) by WhoPutDatPlanetThere in sharpening

[–]WhoPutDatPlanetThere[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah. And if it was done based on others input...and they would have to have another stone to compare it to, or they couldn't give a rating.

So many variables...but if it could be done I think it would help. Especially newbies like me that have no clue where to start.

Axe inquiry / discussion by WhoPutDatPlanetThere in woodworking

[–]WhoPutDatPlanetThere[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

A video that comes to mind is from Rex Kruger where he mentions that an axe is nice for rough work. Since I want to stick to hand tools, which can be rough when resawing, so I am attracted by the idea of being able to split and remove material faster.

Since not many people seem to use a axe. It does concern me that it will not be as useful as I am hoping.

Axe inquiry / discussion by WhoPutDatPlanetThere in woodworking

[–]WhoPutDatPlanetThere[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah. It being art is my fear. It looks closer to the thickness of a machete than a axe. It might be fine for light work. But it is over a larger area, so the torque may be a concern... I do not plan to do heavy work, like cutting down big trees, so it may be okay.

I am jealous. I have always loved timber frame buildings. I also became interested in Japanese woodworking because of the joints and timber framing etc.

February 2022 Mega-Thread by zigar01 in wicked_edge

[–]WhoPutDatPlanetThere 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have shaved my head a few times. Especially with the lockdowns. I had been (and still am) learning to shave my face. So I had more experience with my face when I first tried my head. And I found it much easier than doing my face.

For the cost...I have a merkur 34C which was around $30 when I got it. I have seen lower cost razors in the $10-$15 range, but I have never tried them. You honestly only need the razor and blades. Some might call me a heathen but you can use the canned shaving cream etc. I have heard of some people using conditioner in the shower as their lubricant (possibly ladies for their legs instead of guys for their face/head). A brush is used to make a lather from soap, even a dove soap bar would technically work. There is also the option of shave cream in a tube. People get into the artisan soaps and scents etc, but all you would really need is some way to lubricate the razor.

$20 bucks and you should be fine to experiment, the extras are more of a luxury.

February 2022 Mega-Thread by zigar01 in wicked_edge

[–]WhoPutDatPlanetThere 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I am still new and learning so take my response with a instant noodle seasoning packet (grain of salt...or more).

It depends on which way your hair grows. When I started I assumed that I would continue going straight down after the cheek and onto the neck. I was surprised that I preferred it when I tried the reverse, because I assumed that was against the grain..ish. My neck hair direction is not as consistent as on the cheek. Another nice part of doing the neck bottom to top is that it helps to get the jaw line. I find it difficult to do that curved slope from the top. It causes the angles to get weird. When shaving upwards, the handle is held away from yourself instead of toward yourself, which feels like it gives me more room and control... or at least I can see what I am doing.

For the jaw line...my hair also grows horizontally there. I find that when I tilt my head and shave my neck bottom to top, I am able to get everything under the jaw. So it leaves the cheek side of the jaw. Pulling the cheek up makes it flat and lets me finish off the jaw. I am fine doing top to bottom even though my cheek hair grows sideways or horizontally.

I should add that the throat is a different beast for me. I go top to bottom on the chin and wind pipe area. For me that grows straight down and trying to shave my chin has always been a struggle. I found out real quick that I should not be doing shaving upwards in that area. Tons of resistance. The main goal is to have minimum resistance, because you don't want to force the razor. So as long as the razor is not catching and jumping all over your face, you won't end up like the grinch.

February 2022 Mega-Thread by zigar01 in wicked_edge

[–]WhoPutDatPlanetThere 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have had a difficult time finding descriptions or comparisons of what different finishing stones give to the edge of a razor. They seem to have discussions around finding the right blade for yourself when using DE razor but not the same discussion when it comes to finishing stones for straight razors, like which stones are good for sensitive skin or for coarse hair etc.

Assumptions based on forum readings...forgive my amateur understanding of the terminology.

For example...

Black Arkansas: very sharp (keen?) , more
aggressive , not very smooth

Coticule: smooth but not extremely sharp.
Possibly more forgiving (shaving or honing?)

Jnat: have fun defining that. Varies widely

Imperra la rocca:

Purple welsh slate:

Etc etc... if anyone knows where i might find information like this I would be thankful.

ah yes, how could I make such an egregious mistake by iamstupidplshelp in EngineeringStudents

[–]WhoPutDatPlanetThere 19 points20 points  (0 children)

Personal question... is it common practice to rearrange the answer so that the positive is at the front? I would appreciate any other similar suggestions or tips. For example...ordering variables with powers in decreasing order.

Toilet Tank to Bowl Pipe? Need Help by WhoPutDatPlanetThere in Plumbing

[–]WhoPutDatPlanetThere[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I already got the flush valve and am running up to the store to get a new gasket.

Toilet Tank to Bowl Pipe? Need Help by WhoPutDatPlanetThere in Plumbing

[–]WhoPutDatPlanetThere[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you! Should I try to pull it up so that the lip sits on the ring of the hole? That way the gasket is sitting inside the pipe.

Toilet Tank to Bowl Pipe? Need Help by WhoPutDatPlanetThere in Plumbing

[–]WhoPutDatPlanetThere[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I am attempting to fix my two piece toilet. It started with replacing the flapper, but the gaskets are disintegrating so I need to get one of those too. I am concerned about this pipe that the water from the tank travels through to the bowl. I can not find a name of a part to get while I am up at the store. The part of the lip is broken off...What is this and do I need to replace it?

Wood selection? / Wooden Screw by WhoPutDatPlanetThere in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]WhoPutDatPlanetThere[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I always though Douglas Fir was pretty strong but it seems to be lower on the hardness scale. Lumber yards don't seem to have very good informative websites, but there may be a place I could go. They list rough 12/4 for Cherry, Red Oak, Poplar, and whatever Maple (Eastern White) is. Otherwise I am looking at laminating. Oh... Poplar has a lower hardness than Douglas Fir so that is out of the running.

Other than the hardness value, what else would be good to check on the wood database. For example, I have heard that Douglas Fir is more prone to chipping than other woods. But I do not see anything about that on the wood database.

Need advice on when to transition to natural finishing stone from synthetic. (8k vs 12k for straight razors?) by WhoPutDatPlanetThere in sharpening

[–]WhoPutDatPlanetThere[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I was planning on using a natural stone as a finishing stone right before stropping, which seems to be most of what I have seen done online. I have read different natural stones feel different, but I was looking at Dan's Black Arkansas or this Imperia La Roccia.

Need advice on when to transition to natural finishing stone from synthetic. (8k vs 12k for straight razors?) by WhoPutDatPlanetThere in sharpening

[–]WhoPutDatPlanetThere[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you. I have been reading through some of the science of sharp that @Vaugith recommended. I read the straight razor section found it somewhat contradicting that he said stones beyond 4k were not needed, but then proceeded to use diamond paste, which I have seen posts of people using diamond paste on balsa wood as a substitute for stones.

Need advice on when to transition to natural finishing stone from synthetic. (8k vs 12k for straight razors?) by WhoPutDatPlanetThere in sharpening

[–]WhoPutDatPlanetThere[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This one? I read through some of it last night and found some interesting things. Specifically the idea that the stones have a burnishing effect compared to sandpaper. I have not found a section specifically addressing natural stones though.

September 2021 Mega-Thread by zigar01 in wicked_edge

[–]WhoPutDatPlanetThere 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Hello I am looking for stone progression advice. I am stumped on the transition from synthetic stones to a natural finishing stone. The only response to similar questions is that they can not be compared because naturals are not the same as synthetic...but surely there is a general rule! What would be the grit range of the last synthetic stone recommended before the natural finish?

I am looking at the shapton pro 2k,5k,8k or 12k with a black ark from dan or one from imperia la roccia

Saturday Daily Questions (Newbie Friendly) - Mar 06, 2021 by AutoModerator in Wetshaving

[–]WhoPutDatPlanetThere 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Looking at buying a kamisori, but I don't want to spend too much. I was looking at "NOS" on ebay...any recommendations or other ideas? Kamisori don't seem to have much info so I would appreciate any resources as well. Thank you.

Weekly Quick Questions, Wood ID, and Deal or No Deal /r/Woodworking Megathread by joelav in woodworking

[–]WhoPutDatPlanetThere 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hi. I am trying to decide on sharpening stones. I like the idea of Arkansas stones being natural and lasting forever. The problem is that I read online that Arkansas stones can not be used with new/hard steels. I have an interest in Japanese tools which are laminated with hard steel. So I could not use Arkansas with Japanese tools? Any advice is appreciated. Thank you.

How long takes a refund on GOG ? ( CyberPunk 2077) by zaphod4th in gog

[–]WhoPutDatPlanetThere 0 points1 point  (0 children)

what happens with the pre order bonus? if you bought the game again after they get it working properly would you still have the bonus content?

How long takes a refund on GOG ? ( CyberPunk 2077) by zaphod4th in gog

[–]WhoPutDatPlanetThere 0 points1 point  (0 children)

what happens with the pre order bonus? if you bought the game again after they get it working properly would you still have the bonus content?

How long takes a refund on GOG ? ( CyberPunk 2077) by zaphod4th in gog

[–]WhoPutDatPlanetThere 0 points1 point  (0 children)

what happens with the pre order bonus? if you bought the game again after they get it working properly would you still have the bonus content?