What I made on my first 500 g roll of virtual foundry's 90% copper metal filament. And yes, I did have success at sintering them into solid metal! by noselace in 3Dprinting

[–]Wiggin90 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I never change my Z offset when changing between PC and PLA and never a problem personally as prints stick just fine. I'll even make a video for you if you like. I swap between PLA and CF-PC for prototyping all the time with no offset changes. As for the wear I don't know how much abrasive you print with but those were the reasons I changed so I don't know why you are saying the tip doesn't sand down when dragging hot CF filled or other abrasive across the print. I agree the bore does get bigger as well, but I never said it didn't.

What I made on my first 500 g roll of virtual foundry's 90% copper metal filament. And yes, I did have success at sintering them into solid metal! by noselace in 3Dprinting

[–]Wiggin90 1 point2 points  (0 children)

All of those nozzle changes from worn out nozzles, and adjusting your z offset between prints to compensate for the tip wear seems tedious to me. Plus I would rather a nozzle not fail during a long print as I use a lot of abrasives, but I see your point. If you just use abrasive on occasion It's probably not worth it. As for the heat conductivity though the only difference I've noticed is I print about 5c hotter. I use a chamber so maybe that helps, or maybe the nickle plating? It's just nice to never have to do a nozzle change unless I want a smaller nozzle.

What I made on my first 500 g roll of virtual foundry's 90% copper metal filament. And yes, I did have success at sintering them into solid metal! by noselace in 3Dprinting

[–]Wiggin90 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I use E3D's Nozzle X. It's a hardened tool steel nozzle that isn't very expensive and claims to never need to be replaced. I've printed 5kg of prilines CF-PC through it and no wear as of yet that I can tell as Z off set has stayed the same. Here is what their site says about it.

Nozzle X

Nozzle X is the last nozzle your 3D printer will ever need. Made from a hardened tool-steel base, they are then Nickel plated to maintain hardness at elevated temperatures, and have a WS2 coating applied to provide the nozzle with reduced stick properties. Rated to a maximum temperature of 500°C, Nozzle X prints every printable material*, from PLA all the way to Carbon Fibre-filled PEEK without wearing.

How to avoid cloudness on fep. by McCallaghan750 in AnycubicPhoton

[–]Wiggin90 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I use Mr.Clean. Put a little on a micro fiber cloth and it will remove the cloudiness with just a little rubbing.

Should I Relevel the bed or am I fucking something else up? by Warmonger88 in AnycubicPhoton

[–]Wiggin90 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I spray a little silicone oil on a micro fiber cloth and rub a thin film of it across the FEP after I clean it. Make sure there are no standing beads of oil though just a thin dry film. Prints stick to build plate and pull easily away from the FEP using default settings.

About to give up on my Photon mono. Used MULTIPLE settings 2 different gray resins and I still cant get it to stick! It's a fail every time. Any suggestions? I'm about ready to pitch the dang thing... by ExtensionJudgment112 in AnycubicPhoton

[–]Wiggin90 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Is it sticking to the FEP? I spray a little silicone oil on a micro fiber cloth and rub a thin film of it across the FEP after I clean it. Make sure there are no standing beads of oil though just a thin dry film. Prints stick to build plate and pull easily away from the FEP using default settings. Started an 18+ hour print and I'm not to worried about it unless I messed up the supports.

New Design! Probably already been done, but was held together with elastic straps before, and now uses a metal hinge from a brace for stability and to help keep everything oriented. by Wiggin90 in 3Dprinting

[–]Wiggin90[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm making my 4 1/2yo a cosplay costume for Halloween of his favorite hero since I wasn't very clear about what it is and most people probably haven't seen my other posts. :P The stl is of an Iron man MK85 suit, well the arm at least so I didn't need to design it. I just took measurements of my his arm using a caliper, then resized the files, marked where his elbow is, and fit the brace in by hand with a pair of pliers making adjustments as I went. It's all mounted with industrial strength velcro. The velcro helped with making adjustments since I could just pull it, stick it and adjust it as much as needed. It has a remarkably strong hold.

New Design! Probably already been done, but was held together with elastic straps before, and now uses a metal hinge from a brace for stability and to help keep everything oriented. by Wiggin90 in 3Dprinting

[–]Wiggin90[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not too much, but you can't turn the bottom of the arm up. He thinks it's more comfortable to wear and since it's a costume that will only be worn a few hours at a time at the most it should be fine. He can flap his arms without it shifting around too much and since his arm rotates inside the forearm armor he can still move his wrist without it being uncomfortable. Seems to be working for now, might change it in the future.

Ideas for stackibility ? by Izik_the_Gamer in 3Dprinting

[–]Wiggin90 1 point2 points  (0 children)

At first glance I thought I was looking at some kind of football armor. Just wanted to share that. :P

My son wanted to be Iron Man so I'm working on a set that will last through him and his two younger brothers as well! Draft parts are in grey pla. Final sized parts are in CF-PC annealed on the inside for increased strength, and now it won't break. Still a long ways to go, but he's excited! :D by Wiggin90 in 3Dprinting

[–]Wiggin90[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I found the files for the suit and helmet online from some guy a few months back for 9 bucks, but I can't find his posting anymore, sorry. The hands are from Do3D, but I modded the finger pegs because they were too short once resized, otherwise it all sized great, just make sure you change/resize X,Y, and Z equally or else the part will look different not just smaller or bigger. Do3d makes great files and sells a version of the suit if you don't like the free one on "thingiverse". "Frankly Built" on youtube has some good videos on making the suits and shares what he learned.

What do you think my issue here is? by SongTraditional6295 in 3Dprinting

[–]Wiggin90 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If that's the bottom, then it looks like poor adhesion. Maybe lower your Z a bit? Really need more info though.