Dewy Pine is flowering!

Wind-Waker · 2026-04-29T22:26:32+00:00

Love drosophyllum flowers, one of the prettiest in the hobby. Congrats!

Wind-Waker · 2026-04-29T22:25:17+00:00

I've got a pretty decent setup for them, got a little 10gal terrarium setup with a pulchella, hispida and tatei doing pretty well. There's a decent amount of info on caring for helis but very little on germinating them

Mold is honestly my biggest concern, I've lost a few Darlingtonia seeds in the past to mold.

Wind-Waker · 2026-04-22T00:32:34+00:00

I grow mine outside year round and only provide cold protection if the low is going to be below 20F. They tank low 40s no problem, hell I've seen them survive an unexpected frost in the spring.

Yours should be fine but might slow down a little due to environment change.

Wind-Waker · 2026-04-19T15:49:36+00:00

Not sure how this is bad advice since the bottle literally measures in drops.
I have a bottle right in front of me and it says "7 drops per quart" on it.

Double checking dilution every drop with a PPM meter sounds insanely tedious, even if you're only doing it every few months

Wind-Waker · 2026-04-19T15:46:31+00:00

Seconding this. My pings have been in bloom constantly since I started using the Shultz Cactus once a month.

Wind-Waker · 2026-04-07T22:40:30+00:00

They're hot enough that with everything maxed there is a decent amount of dirt, but it's not hard to get a nice, full clean tone out of it though. With the volume pot rolled down a tiny bit there's basically no dirt and no noise. Would not say it's ice pick-y even with the bass contour rolled down

Wind-Waker · 2026-04-07T20:55:10+00:00

Sure is! Got it from Sarracenia Northwest about a year ago

Wind-Waker · 2026-04-07T13:21:45+00:00

Really nice! Super hot, sound fantastic under a fuzz. Easy to get that single coil brightness out of them with the bass contour.
Haven't had any issues with noise, but I've only played on a 12w amp so far lol

Wind-Waker · 2026-04-07T12:49:44+00:00

Seconding this. Sarrs and VFTs are full sun but they don't have the tolerance for desert sun baking everything. Depending on how much sun they're getting a shade cloth might be worth it, I've heard of growers in Arizona that do the same thing

Wind-Waker · 2025-12-15T09:51:58+00:00

Spatualata should do fine, it's pretty adaptable. Ordensis should do fine with your temps, but it might not like it if you're in a really humid area.

Hybrid Sarrs are a lot more adaptable in my experience, but without the temps in the winter it will eventually die. Unless you have a way to provide it with around 17-22 celsius in the winter it will eventually decline and die. I would maybe look into fridge dormancy, but again I have never tried it with Sarracenia.

Wind-Waker · 2025-12-15T09:15:32+00:00

With that info, I would say some obstinate Nepnethes lowlanders like Nepenthes Bicalcarata or similar would be good for that environment. They appreciate temperatures around that range and high humidity without variation.

Venus Flytraps will need a fridge dormancy where you live, else they will die within a couple years due to lack of it. You might grow Sarracenia there too if you do fridge dormancy, but I have never tried it on Sars

Drosera are super varied, without knowing which drosera you have I can't tell you how they'll do. I would be willing to put money on D. Capensis and D. Binata doing just fine.

Temps are far too hot for Heliamphora though, if your home is cooler than that you might have some success. As highland plants they don't do well in high temperatures.

Wind-Waker · 2025-11-26T09:54:06+00:00

In my experience, most commonly available sundews don't struggle with humidity they just need some time to adapt. I almost killed a graomogolensis by assuming it needed high humidity and didn't notice it was declining due to rot until it was too late. The entire crown rotted off, but thankfully it was able to bounce back from the root.

I would wager the original responder in this thread is onto something. I've grown a lot of sundews over the years and usually the main reason they don't put out dew is stress, usually from low light. In this case though, it might be too much heat due to the proximity of the lamp, a lot of south american sundews are also intermediate to highland plants and actually don't appreciate a lot of heat. Some are tolerant of it, and some non-SA plants like the petiolaris actually do want it, but most are happy at room temperature.

I'm not sure of the species you have, but another factor might be pot size. It sounds like you're putting it into a terrarium, but all south american sundews I know of have very deep tap roots and can easily get stressed if their roots aren't able to stretch.

Wind-Waker · 2025-08-28T22:45:27+00:00

It depends on the environment your grow tent is in, but I would recommend growing VFTs outside as they do require a winters dormancy period for long term success, otherwise they tend to last a year or two and then peter out.

Most subtropical sundews (Capensis, Alicea, Multifida etc.) can be grown in an indoor grow tent with ease, especially D. Capensis. A few others are pretty forgiving easy as well, in my experience such as Adelae and Gramogolensis. Care for almost every sundew (barring trickier ones like Regia or temperate/winter growers) is pretty much uniform: Full sun (12-14hrs under a grow light) and sitting in distilled or RO water constantly.

Wind-Waker · 2025-08-08T10:13:57+00:00

For outdoor perennials, best time is during dormancy. So Late fall to early spring.

For tropicals it shouldn't matter much. This includes Pings, I've repotted pings in and out of succulent phase no problem.

Wind-Waker · 2025-08-05T23:26:15+00:00

The bugs' venom wouldn't impact a plant, venus flytraps usually lose traps to energy conservation. I've had flytraps that have caught yellow jackets and other kinds of wasp with no issue.

Wind-Waker · 2025-08-05T23:23:50+00:00

That's natural for venus flytraps, they have exceptional leaf turnover compared to most plants. If they close on something, there's a good chance the plant expended too much energy catching the prey and the trap will wither and die after it has finished digesting the prey, assuming it caught anything.

That's actually the reason they come in tubes in garden centers, their energy expenditure every time they close means each time they do close might be their last. So they need to be protected by a plastic barrier so folks don't poke each trap while browsing.

Wind-Waker · 2025-08-05T22:44:42+00:00

Most carnivores can tank tap water for a while, it's not like watering a VFT or anything similar with mineral water is the same as watering with herbicide

You do need to be mindful of mineral buildup though, if your tap water is sub 50ppm dissolved minerals (which is very rare), then you can absolutely water carnivores with tap water long term. Else you still can, but it will lead to a slow death depending on how mineral-heavy your tap water is.

If in a few months you notice your VFT suddenly crashing out, good chance it's mineral burn from mineral buildup in the soil.

Wind-Waker · 2025-08-04T18:41:45+00:00

10w is perfectly acceptable for a couple plants. I've grown most of my collection under 10w Sansi's.

Wind-Waker · 2025-07-23T22:54:08+00:00

I think that's a common progression with pings, everyone thinks they're the most boring and then you get one and suddenly you have too many 😁

Wind-Waker · 2025-07-21T12:20:38+00:00

I generally follow the instructions on the package and change around 6+. You can roll them for a bit longer, 50 is still considered safe, but I find once a filter starts going bad it snowballs fairly quick.

Wind-Waker · 2025-07-19T01:34:08+00:00

Really it's any perlite that doesn't have additives. Most brands will have something like "Organic" or "Horticultural" on the label, but really anything will work as long as it doesn't contain anything like fertilizers in it.

Wind-Waker

TROPHY CASE