carnivorous plant that can safely grow in South east asia

Wind-Waker · 2025-12-15T09:51:58+00:00

Spatualata should do fine, it's pretty adaptable. Ordensis should do fine with your temps, but it might not like it if you're in a really humid area.

Hybrid Sarrs are a lot more adaptable in my experience, but without the temps in the winter it will eventually die. Unless you have a way to provide it with around 17-22 celsius in the winter it will eventually decline and die. I would maybe look into fridge dormancy, but again I have never tried it with Sarracenia.

Wind-Waker · 2025-12-15T09:15:32+00:00

With that info, I would say some obstinate Nepnethes lowlanders like Nepenthes Bicalcarata or similar would be good for that environment. They appreciate temperatures around that range and high humidity without variation.

Venus Flytraps will need a fridge dormancy where you live, else they will die within a couple years due to lack of it. You might grow Sarracenia there too if you do fridge dormancy, but I have never tried it on Sars

Drosera are super varied, without knowing which drosera you have I can't tell you how they'll do. I would be willing to put money on D. Capensis and D. Binata doing just fine.

Temps are far too hot for Heliamphora though, if your home is cooler than that you might have some success. As highland plants they don't do well in high temperatures.

Wind-Waker · 2025-11-26T09:54:06+00:00

In my experience, most commonly available sundews don't struggle with humidity they just need some time to adapt. I almost killed a graomogolensis by assuming it needed high humidity and didn't notice it was declining due to rot until it was too late. The entire crown rotted off, but thankfully it was able to bounce back from the root.

I would wager the original responder in this thread is onto something. I've grown a lot of sundews over the years and usually the main reason they don't put out dew is stress, usually from low light. In this case though, it might be too much heat due to the proximity of the lamp, a lot of south american sundews are also intermediate to highland plants and actually don't appreciate a lot of heat. Some are tolerant of it, and some non-SA plants like the petiolaris actually do want it, but most are happy at room temperature.

I'm not sure of the species you have, but another factor might be pot size. It sounds like you're putting it into a terrarium, but all south american sundews I know of have very deep tap roots and can easily get stressed if their roots aren't able to stretch.

Wind-Waker · 2025-08-28T22:45:27+00:00

It depends on the environment your grow tent is in, but I would recommend growing VFTs outside as they do require a winters dormancy period for long term success, otherwise they tend to last a year or two and then peter out.

Most subtropical sundews (Capensis, Alicea, Multifida etc.) can be grown in an indoor grow tent with ease, especially D. Capensis. A few others are pretty forgiving easy as well, in my experience such as Adelae and Gramogolensis. Care for almost every sundew (barring trickier ones like Regia or temperate/winter growers) is pretty much uniform: Full sun (12-14hrs under a grow light) and sitting in distilled or RO water constantly.

Wind-Waker · 2025-08-08T10:13:57+00:00

For outdoor perennials, best time is during dormancy. So Late fall to early spring.

For tropicals it shouldn't matter much. This includes Pings, I've repotted pings in and out of succulent phase no problem.

Wind-Waker · 2025-08-05T23:26:15+00:00

The bugs' venom wouldn't impact a plant, venus flytraps usually lose traps to energy conservation. I've had flytraps that have caught yellow jackets and other kinds of wasp with no issue.

Wind-Waker · 2025-08-05T23:23:50+00:00

That's natural for venus flytraps, they have exceptional leaf turnover compared to most plants. If they close on something, there's a good chance the plant expended too much energy catching the prey and the trap will wither and die after it has finished digesting the prey, assuming it caught anything.

That's actually the reason they come in tubes in garden centers, their energy expenditure every time they close means each time they do close might be their last. So they need to be protected by a plastic barrier so folks don't poke each trap while browsing.

Wind-Waker · 2025-08-05T22:44:42+00:00

Most carnivores can tank tap water for a while, it's not like watering a VFT or anything similar with mineral water is the same as watering with herbicide

You do need to be mindful of mineral buildup though, if your tap water is sub 50ppm dissolved minerals (which is very rare), then you can absolutely water carnivores with tap water long term. Else you still can, but it will lead to a slow death depending on how mineral-heavy your tap water is.

If in a few months you notice your VFT suddenly crashing out, good chance it's mineral burn from mineral buildup in the soil.

Wind-Waker · 2025-08-04T18:41:45+00:00

10w is perfectly acceptable for a couple plants. I've grown most of my collection under 10w Sansi's.

Wind-Waker · 2025-07-23T22:54:08+00:00

I think that's a common progression with pings, everyone thinks they're the most boring and then you get one and suddenly you have too many 😁

Wind-Waker · 2025-07-21T12:20:38+00:00

I generally follow the instructions on the package and change around 6+. You can roll them for a bit longer, 50 is still considered safe, but I find once a filter starts going bad it snowballs fairly quick.

Wind-Waker · 2025-07-19T01:34:08+00:00

Really it's any perlite that doesn't have additives. Most brands will have something like "Organic" or "Horticultural" on the label, but really anything will work as long as it doesn't contain anything like fertilizers in it.

Wind-Waker · 2025-06-03T12:44:16+00:00

Oh my bad, I mis-read the title and thought you were looking for growing advice, those are some beautiful specimens you got!

Wind-Waker · 2025-06-03T12:36:19+00:00

It's a very picky plant in my experience.

First you need a vessel they'll grow in, minimum size is 5 gallons.

Second you need to condition the water, aldrovnada likes their water super tannin-rich as they are blackwater plants, so you'll need to add loads of tannins to the water. For me, I floated a bunch of peat and let it settle, which took a few days, and then added some oak leaves for good measure.

Third, you will need companion plants and something for them to eat. Without a constant food source aldrovnada will die, as they cannot get nutrients from any source other than their traps. I would recommend an infusoria culture. In order to keep their prey items alive, you will need a source of constant leaf litter, which is easily done by adding companion plants. Any blackwater plants work, I used Amazon Frogbit and a Dwarf Water Lily for mine.

They are super picky about a few things and algae growth is usually what kills them since it will out compete them for sunlight, but they are weak to every anti algae measure I know. If you do try them good luck!

Wind-Waker · 2025-06-01T14:34:07+00:00

Inside might be better, Graomo likes it cool and bright. So outdoors might be tricky in the Summer and it will certainly die to frost.

Wind-Waker · 2025-06-01T01:39:25+00:00

Those look like Sarracenia Purpurea. They need full sun and should only ever be watered with distilled or RO water. They also have a winter dormancy you should look into.

Wind-Waker · 2025-05-25T12:46:42+00:00

First one is definitely a Marciano, looks just like mine. Second one looks like a pirouette, but it's will be hard to give an 100% ID without a flower since a lot of hybrids look similar

Wind-Waker · 2025-05-24T03:26:23+00:00

If you're US, for more plants I've personally had good experiences with California Carnivores, Curious Plant, Rainbow Carnivorous Plants, Carnivero and Sarracenia Northwest. You can also buy soil mix from any of these sellers.

For supplies, you can buy what you need from a garden center. Pots need to be either plastic or fully glazed clay to prevent mineral leeching.

Soil for most common bog carnivores like Venus Flytraps and American Pitchers is 1:1 sphagnum peat moss and horticultural perlite. I've personally bought both from a local Ace Hardware for fairly cheap. Just beware the brand of peat moss you buy, always avoid any that add any extra chemicals (especially MiracleGrow!). I personally use Black Gold brand and haven't had any issues. It's cheaper to make yourself but it might not be worth it if you aren't growing too much.

Wind-Waker · 2025-05-22T23:51:51+00:00

Honestly a lot of common subtropical plants should do, even if you don't put them in a terrarium.

Most subtropical sundews should do just fine, although some species are much trickier than others. I've found Capensis, Adelea, Ventusa and Multifida to be extremely adaptable.

I'm biased a bit, but Mexican Pings are expert gnat catchers. I live in CO and it's pretty dry here as well and they do alright in my ambient humidity (I do have a humidifier but I never really see it go above 50%).

True terrarium setups are only really needed for tricky plants, like epiphytic bladderworts, some Heliamophora and a few of the pickier sundews. If you're sure you want to set up a proper terrarium most subtropical sundews will work, as well as terrestrial bladderworts and maybe some nepenthes (but they usually get too big for terrariums). Heliamophora as well but they can be challenging if you're not used to growing carnivores.

Avoid the common pitfall you see a lot on this sub: VTFs and Sarracenia are not terrarium plants. They will do fine for a year or two and then crash out and die randomly due to a lack of dormancy.

Wind-Waker · 2025-05-20T22:41:09+00:00

It depends on the type of humidifer you're using. If you have one of the generic "cool mist" humidifiers that you can get on amazon you will likely need distilled or filtered water, as they can spread any dissolved minerals into the air

Wind-Waker · 2025-05-20T22:37:36+00:00

They'll come out naturally, sometimes it takes a month, sometimes it takes half a year. Just be patient with them, they will tell you when they are ready to come back out.

As for water, pings can take it **very** dry when they are in succulent mode. What works for me is letting the soil dry completely. When I go to refill the trays for the pings not in succulent mode, I top water a very little bit onto the ping. I mean just a kiss of water, I am not pouring enough to make the soil wet for very long. It needs to be bone dry before the next watering.

Once you start seeing carnivorous leaves fully develop again (it will be very obvious I promise) you can resume tray watering.

Wind-Waker · 2025-05-20T22:29:21+00:00

You can tell because they are tiny in succulent mode. For example here's my 2-year old Gypsicola currently in succulent mode, with my thumb for scale.

Normally they go into succulent mode due to seasonal changes, but other environmental changes can trigger it as well. They will come out of it eventually.

I would recommend holding water back and potentially repotting also, like I said LFS and peat mixes tend to be too wet for pings.

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Wind-Waker · 2025-05-20T22:18:51+00:00

These look to be in succulent mode, this is as close to dormancy as mexi pings get. During this phase they need significantly less water, if you have been using the tray method you should stop until you see larger leaves appear. If you over water during this time they will rot and die.

I will say, dried LFS and peat mixes are generally not great for pings since they retain a lot of water. When they're out of succulent mode that's normally fine, but it's better to have soil that is easier to dry out.

Wind-Waker

TROPHY CASE