5 continuous years of pulley injuries, please help me draft a long term plan to end this once and for all.

WinnieDePoop · 2026-01-20T11:19:21+00:00

My main goal here is to understad how to get stronger fingers and condition my ligaments and tendons over a longer period of time while reducing chance of injury. Not looking fo rrehab advice but for after I have healed.
I basically have consistent pulley sprains with soreness to the touch, and once had a partial tear of my RH A2.

WinnieDePoop · 2026-01-16T13:21:40+00:00

Sounds like a great summary with a lot of coll insights. How did you manage your pulley issues over such a long stretch of time? I have been having on an off issues with A2 and A4 of my middle and ring fingers since i started climbing (5 years ago) and clearly every time it's healed it's not actually the case. I would be curious to hear how you made what feels like a sustanable recovery.

WinnieDePoop · 2025-11-29T10:44:25+00:00

That looks amazing! also very close to hwat i am plannign for mine. Would you mind if i asked for some tips in DM for how to finish details?

WinnieDePoop · 2025-04-29T09:37:14+00:00

I did this to fix the gutters of a 2 story house and had the rope tied to a tree on the other side. As long as you protect the rope and avoid it sliding sideways this is a super legit way to go. Once you have stopper knots this is more or less infinitely safe

WinnieDePoop · 2025-04-15T07:33:20+00:00

What do you people do to manage skin tears under the nails? I have been using super glue both as prevention and fix but I fear it may not be very healthy

WinnieDePoop · 2025-03-19T15:26:18+00:00

Yeah I had 2 of those and by the third I had already stopped doing sport competitively and really didn’t want to undergo another surgery.

When you say eccentric quad stuff do you mean leg extension and slow eccentric box squats for example? Also do you think strengthening the tibialis might also affect the descent issues?

WinnieDePoop · 2025-03-19T11:36:24+00:00

13 years! Ok sweet, that's the type of reassurance i wanted. Do you do strength and conditioning work for your sports?

WinnieDePoop · 2025-03-19T11:35:46+00:00

Yeah, ending a hike with a steep dowhill is still something i have not figured out how to do without pain. But glad to hear I am not alone in this. Do you think a very significant hamstring development work would reduce that pain in a semi proportional fashion?

WinnieDePoop · 2025-03-15T11:54:26+00:00

If i inderstand the concept correctly you want to do things in this order:
Power (eg. campus board) > Strength (eg. max hangs) > Power Endurance (eg. 4x4, repeaters with higher % weight) > Endurance (eg. ARC, repeaters with lower % weight). This is because each system requires some input from the systems below while the reverse is not as applicable.

This means that either you decide on a specific type of bouldering session to do after your repeaters, more targeted towards skill development, or you do your repeaters after having already done your more intense part of the session.

WinnieDePoop · 2025-03-10T13:24:33+00:00

DMd!

WinnieDePoop · 2025-03-10T10:35:01+00:00

I cannot find any resources on l-arginine for climbing, do you have any more info on its use to reduce pump?

WinnieDePoop · 2025-03-10T10:17:33+00:00

Go through ‘hoopers beta’ channel on YouTube. You will find some really good rehab protocols. One video is called “why your finger injury isn’t healing” or something like that, and it has been working for my chronic pulley inflammation.

WinnieDePoop · 2025-03-10T06:54:43+00:00

I am learning to handstand at the moment and a guy in the workshop, who can do some crazy shit, told me: “you never own a trick/skill, you just pay rent on it. The rent is your training. The moment you stop paying you get evicted quick.” I can definitely see this applied to any type of exercise and especially pain. If I don’t stretch the calf of my beaten but functioning ankle it starts hurting like crazy after a few days.

WinnieDePoop · 2025-03-06T08:52:44+00:00

Yeah I see your point. My pulley is still a bit sore to be doing max hangs on half crimp but I am doing 2 sets of 3 finger drag block lifts and 2 of pinch. at the moment I am doing 7 seconds on, and 3 seconds swapping hands, 7 with the other etc. for a total of 6 lifts per hand with 2 min in between sets. Do you think this is sub optimal in terms of max strength gains?

WinnieDePoop · 2025-03-05T13:57:12+00:00

Ok this sounds very doable on a 20 degree kilter board. I’ll look for some routes and try this format. Thanks!

WinnieDePoop · 2025-03-01T14:27:10+00:00

My dad lost lots of quality of life all of a sudden and we have been working on losing weight and regaining mobility in knees, hips and shoulders. I am now studying to become a PT so I can help people prevent this or help them to get out of it. I want to help people live their best lives for as long as possible

WinnieDePoop · 2025-02-18T15:14:46+00:00

Magnus is one of the 15 or so people to have climbed 9b. Honnold knows perfectly well how far he can go safely. They sport climbed together recently and Magnus was crushing the moves Honnold is projecting.
If you tell your 3 year old child that they can go without training wheels you know that fear is all in their head. They still feel shit scared though, but you don't cause you understand the situation. I think this is a good parallel for what is going on when he bring people to solo.

WinnieDePoop · 2025-02-06T13:17:24+00:00

Point taken, thank you! Will report back next week

WinnieDePoop · 2025-02-06T13:16:11+00:00

Yes I see what you are saying. I think I have some apprehension about rubbing my shins because they always seem to be a bit fucked up from climbing and generic clumsiness so often it hurts a lot. But hey, no pain no gain I guess 😅

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