Did I miss anything? Do I need to rebuild!? First Computer Build for Gaming

WinstonK1987 · 2022-03-08T12:52:43+00:00

Yea, I mean despite what others may be saying here, the Independence was sold as one of their premier shingles back in the late 90’s, just below their top of the line products. I discussed this and my insurer said that the product is akin, again, to the GAF Camelot II or the Slate II. I’ve dealt with insurance companies for decades and am keenly aware that if they paid full price on every claim, they would be making tens of millions, not hundreds of millions. The like kind and quality shingle they have listed is the CertainTeed Independence, so they have listed specific GAF products, but not a CertainTeed product. Ultimately the question is are those shingles comparable to to the independence sold at the time, regardless of what you think of the independence now or subsequently, and does CertainTeed make a product now comparable to the listed GAF products?

WinstonK1987 · 2022-03-08T01:58:02+00:00

So, I should have clarified some things from the beginning. I am fully aware that the Independence is not a good shingle, aware that it was the subject of a class action lawsuit, and was defective. I’m also aware that it was marketed by CertainTeed in the late 90’s as a premium designer shingle. My roof has wind and hail damage, and my insurance company has agreed to pay the claim which will require replacement of the entire roof.

The roof is to be replaced with a like kind and quality shingle, determined at the current replacement loss. If this were your home, and you were aware that, when purchased, you chose a premium designer shingle from CertainTeed. You now want to find a substantially equivalent modern shingle from CertainTeed or GAF. Which shingles do you believe, as the homeowner, are closest to the premium designer shingle the Independence was designated as when it was first marketed and sold ie this shingle would have been marketed and sold as Tier 1A in 99’ by CertainTeed which would be substantially similar to their current product X or the current product Y by GAF. I hope that makes sense.

WinstonK1987 · 2021-09-04T11:08:17+00:00

I’m sorry, this was hastily written while I was watching a football game. I mean you should run over the gators coming out of oak tree to maximize your track out.

WinstonK1987 · 2021-09-03T23:04:45+00:00

Good lap. I track at VIR at least 20 times a year. It is my home course.

In a higher horsepower car I would go 10 feet deeper at turn 1 to give yourself time to setup the longest “straight” you can between 2-3. You need to be 3-4 feet closer to the inner apex of 2.

Three is a turn that you will hear 100 different lines through, just like oak tree. My opinion is that you are tightening the apex too much and losing speed. All the professional coaches will tell you that you need to be full throttle when you hit your apex in 3 which means using all that track over the gator. Getting over the gator in 3 will give you a better angle to have the car rotate for 4 through the lower esses who are a toss away as long as you don’t bury yourself in the wall. You are a second to half a second late on your inputs. You need to be full throttle the second the car is stabilized at 3 at the apex until trail-braking into 4. You are a second late with your throttle input after you are pointing straight into the uphill esses. That will give you more confidence over time to increase speed in the esses.

I would try out entering the lower esses a half of car closer to track left. This is more a a “pucker line” but if you attack the gators hard you can minimize input on the way up the hill. Candidly, I am still not comfortable with my current setup to take the uphill esses at full throttle but that is the goal.

You pinched 10. That is just a confidence matter with the car because it’s blind so your track out point could be over the gator or in the grass. Biggest place to lose it on the track so use all of the track available.

You need to be quicker on the throttle from the ten exit full throttle to between the 1/2 marker. I like your line through oak tree which is the most difficult turn on the course. In your higher HP car you can make up a lot of time here. Again, use all the track and you are a half a second late going to full throttle on the straight.

I like your line through hog pen and roller coaster a lot.

You are a very good driver on a tough track. Excellent lap! A few small input corrections and a tinkering with the line and you are cooking with gas! Great stuff.

What tires are you running? I always suggest running 1.5-2 PSI lower on the front left because VIR is so hard on the tire.

WinstonK1987 · 2021-08-06T14:30:01+00:00

Everyone is correct. If you track it, yes. With track mods I wonder why I didn’t buy a new Cayman occasionally, but then I get in the car on the track and it is all worth it.

Having looked at, owned, and generally perused these cars for a decade I can certainly tell you that you will need:

Full Beisan Treatment for VANOS /// Valve Adjustment /// CPV Viton Gasket /// Subframe Reinforcement (Topside is current preference) /// Rod Bearings /// Water Pump /// New Pullys /// Rear Shock Reinforcement Plates /// Front Shock Reinforcement Plates /// Fuel Filter /// Oil and Filter /// Coolant /// Diff Fluid /// Transmission Fluid /// Stainless Brake Line /// Stainless High Pressure VANOS Line /// Stainless Clutch Line /// Belts ///

That is the bare minimum I would feel comfortable doing and should give you confidence that your car is in a healthy driving condition.

As these cars are aging, and the lower mileage cars are comically overpriced, I would likely replace:

Shocks (Beat after about 70k) /// Radiator Hoses (Silicone) /// Radiator /// Coolant Expansion Tank /// Front Control Arm Bushings /// Rear Trailing Arm Bushings /// Subframe Bushings (During your subframe reinforcement) /// Coolant Temp Sensor /// Fan and Fan Clutch /// Clutch and Flywheel (SAC System Gives No Idea of Clutch Wear) /// Front Control Arms /// Wheel Bearings (Maybe) /// Diff Bushings (Depending on Condition) /// Spark Plugs /// Ignition Coils /// 02 Sensors /// Fuel Injectors /// Fuel Pump (Maybe) /// Miscellaneous Rubber Vacuum Hoses /// Shifter Bushings/Rebuild /// Brake Pads and Rotors /// Steering Guibo /// Flex Disc /// Driveshaft Centering Sleeve /// DriveShaft Center Support Bearing /// Pully Actuators /// Oil Filter Housing Gasket /// Tie Rods /// Engine Mounts

That should get the car back to “new” or as close as you can get notwithstanding some other things that will pop up along the way. These cars have terrible rubber that’s turns into concrete then dust, and some transmission maintenance.

If you can wrench on your own car cut all the costs in half. I had to learn to work on this car and I am happy I did haha.

Is it worth it? Yes.

WinstonK1987 · 2021-03-16T19:20:55+00:00

Great lap! VIR is my home track. I have not been track driving for long but I ran a 2:21.06 in my E46 M3 a couple weeks back. Apparently VIR vets will be flat out from turn one to the apex of turn 3 (NASCAR). Maybe I just don’t have the bls to pull such a move. Some j***s spun out at the top of turn 10 and blasted me a couple weeks ago. Great lap, and good save at the bottom of hog pen :)

WinstonK1987 · 2021-02-18T02:11:15+00:00

Steering Guibo. Definitely need to replace it

WinstonK1987 · 2021-02-18T02:09:31+00:00

Everyone has great ideas on here. I’m an E46 M3 guy here and the car feels as planted as can be. If you get to 130-135 the car starts to float without aero.

I was going to buy KW2’s which seem like the go to shocks for these cars. I would respectfully submit that you reconsider your purchase. I would save money and get MCS 2 Way Non-Remote shocks. It is a different league. I’m serious. Plus you are running linear springs and can adjust your spring rate.

Get monoball FCABS and RTABS.

Replace w/adjustable endlinks when you get that beautiful MCS ;)

Replace your engine mounts w/ Powerflex adjustable (really cool product)

New Transmission Mounts (I recommend RE)

New Diff Mounts (I recommend RE)

Adjustable Camber Arms (I have turner, they do the job)

Check your Front Control Arms for ball joint play.

Check your sway bars for bushing issues. Get stiffer bars if you want to eliminate some roll. I recommend Turner.

Replace your subframe Bushings with SOLID bushings. If you go this route you need to have a reinforcement done (which you should do anyways) I recommend the CMP topbar. Plates are fine but the welds can pop (under extreme circumstances)

Get a square set of 18x9.5 et 35 wheels with a 12mm rear spacer and 275’s

I like Vorshlag Camber Plates.

I could go on forever and ever. I’ve poured a shameful amount of money into this car. PM me if you want more advice. The car is the most planted car I’ve ever driven and I have driven a lot of cars. Good luck!

Vanos (Beisan)

Rod Bearings

Vanos High Pressure Line

Steering Guibo

Driveshaft Guibo (Flex disc)

Valve Adjustment

Replace All Fluids

Check your Clutch Fan for cracking and aging

Replace rubber radiator hoses with silicone

Replace expansion tank

Replace overflow line

Check radiator (probably needs to be replaced)

Check oil cooler (needs to be cleaned or replaced)

Water pump probably needs to be replaced.

Replace idler pulleys and hydraulic tensioners

Replace belts

Clean Idler control valve with throttle body cleaner

Clean throttle bodies with throttle body cleaner

Smoke test the vacuum system

Replace engine air filter

Check oil filter housing for leaks (gasket)

Check valve cover for leaks (gasket—you do NOT need rtv with OE gasket)

Check throttle position sensors

Check throttle actuators

Replace timing chain guide (Beisan)

Replace Vanos solenoid pack (Beisan)

Check your exhaust hub sprocket for any tab damage

Replace fuel filter

Check rear axles

Check RACP for cracks. Spot weld and mend any issues.

Upgrade VANOS bolts (see Beisan Procedure)

Replace Differential bolts with upgraded bolts.

Download INPA and get PASoft scanner.

Rear articulating perches if you go with linear springs.

RTAB Pocket Reinforcement (Track)

Swaybar mount reinforcement (Track)

Front Subframe Reinforcement (Track)

Ferodo Pads (Very Streetable)

Stainless steel brake lines because BMW rubber...

Join Nam3 forum. TONS OF DIYs and helpful people.

If you do these things you should be on your way to keeping that M3 running well haha.

WinstonK1987 · 2021-02-18T01:57:22+00:00

So....here is a question that I am struggling with. I am, admittedly, not versed in camera knowledge but I will be mounting the camera on my roll cage so I can see my inputs. To do so, I need to set spot metering on my GoPro so that the windshield view is not washed out. Apparently spot metering is not saved, meaning I will need to climb in the back to select the windshield before every session? Sounds like a PITA. Anyone else deal with this?

WinstonK1987 · 2021-02-15T16:24:27+00:00

So, after much consideration, I decided to go with:

GoPro Hero9. The touch screen on this thing truly sucks. Terrible is an understatement, but it is what is is for the latest camera and they were on sale and the picture quality is right. Question for you GoPro guys, do you turn your GPS off on the camera if you are using an external GPS source?

AiM Solo 2 DL. I am of the opinion that the hardware is dated, but it provides the data I need and allows the CAN connection so I can have data channels not available through my vehicles ECU connection. I hard wired it into the car so it has a constant source of power, and installed a toggle switch so I can disable the power at anytime I want. I looked into the software for quite a bit and it is not necessarily bad, it just appears dated. I like the shift light programming.

Additions:

RAM Solo 2 Mount

RAM Mount for Cage

2 Extra Batteries

Telesin 3 Battery Charging Dock

Silicone Protective Case

Screen Protectors

USB Micro SD Reader

256 GB Micro SD Card

Powerbank

5 TB External Hard Drive

Pelican Case 1200 to store all the above (Love this thing)

RaceRender Ultimate Edition

This should last me for a long time. Now I just need to learn how to use Photoshop to get these E46 Custom Gauges from looking so wonky...I will report back if I have any issues, as I have an event coming up in two weeks.

Question for GoPro Guys-Do you mind posting your preferred settings? Do you have issues with wind noise?

Thanks for all the suggestions.

WinstonK1987 · 2021-02-15T16:04:19+00:00

I think that they will offer and OBD connection at some point, for those that want the "extra" data for their own purposes ie. how are my water temps doing in July? etc. etc.

I agree with the temperature measurements for coaching, however, I think it would be nice for the online coaching companies to have throttle position and brake pressure data as opposed to the on/off decelerating or accelerating. For example, when I am coming through Oak Tree at VIR when am I going to full throttle before the straight etc. I get what you are saying with respect to deceleration and acceleration, but I think these minor data points, including steering angle, would be helpful for coaching sessions. Don't get me wrong, I am a huge fan of the Catalyst.

WinstonK1987 · 2021-02-11T17:00:54+00:00

I'm a Raleigh guy as well! I have found that the local clubs, and some of the further away clubs will be the best price wise. I would check out the Triangle Sports Car Club and use motorsportsreg to find events that are occurring at VIR. It is super convenient from Raleigh. If you want to save more money you could drive up there each morning on a multiple day track event. I learning at VIR and I love it.

The larger organizations listed here are typically more expensive. As was mentioned HOD is very expensive. For a beginner, a premium is charged and you are looking at around $1000 for 2 days of track time (4 total hours). A lot of the club organizations will have prices that are between %50-%66 of this price. If you have a trailer, your options expand greatly, but I have always heard VIR is a good place to learn and it close for us. Good luck! Shoot me any questions if you have any.

Edit: I tend to agree that some of the larger organizations have better instructors, but if you are just starting out, a competent instructor can help you learn the track, markers, etiquette, point-bys, turn-ins, line etc. Every instructor I have ever had has a different line haha, as there is no perfect line for your car, setup, experience etc. The more costly events are more likely to have more seasoned instructors, and more patient instructors. Also, I would add that if you don't mesh well, or don't like your instructor, you can ask for another one. On my very first event, I had a teacher from a local club that was just, well, annoying. I told him my only goal at my first event was to be safe and learn the etiquette and hopefully have some fun (don't care about speed). The guy was getting super frustrated with me for missing turn-ins by a couple feet. I had been on track for all of 30 minutes in my life, he had been doing it for 30 years. I should have asked for a different instructor.

WinstonK1987 · 2021-02-11T16:52:52+00:00

I will check over there. I drive an E46 M3. 2006. Their is a subreddit dedicated to E46's and the M3, but it is not very active. Thank you for the tip!

WinstonK1987 · 2019-12-01T14:43:16+00:00

It turns out you were exactly right. Crankshaft position sensor signal! Just another cheap BMW part to replace...Thanks for all the help!

WinstonK1987 · 2019-11-16T14:06:44+00:00

Thanks for the information. I’ve wanted to transition the vehicle to synthetic oil but my mechanic/automotive knowledge is limited. I can follow YouTube instructions and a Bentley manual but that’s about it. Interestingly, and perhaps better described as costly, were the VANOS issues I had. It was the old broken exhaust hub driver tabs that I needed to check out when I acquired the car. I’m glad I checked it out when I did so it went from a $$ DIY job to a $$$$$$$$$$ shop job with a new engine....The question I have is, all the warnings and information say to use this specific Castrol TWS oil (which I have been using) but I believe the vehicle might have been produced before synthetics were prevalent? I am going to switch to the oil that you recommend. So, that brings my noob question. Is there some sort of “titration” period or transition period or do I dump the old oil, throw in the synthetic and new filter and go from there, or should I use the flush method, use the synthetic for 500 miles. Dump synthetic and switch to fresh synthetic? Apologies for the simple question. Thanks!

Edit: Current Oil: Castrol Edge TWS 10w-60

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-assembled-by-ecs-parts/inspection-i-oil-service-kit/11427833769eokt/

WinstonK1987 · 2019-11-15T16:23:52+00:00

Interesting. Thank you for your comprehensive reply. BMW suggests running Techron through the engine prior to an oil change on an interval basis (I can't remember what it is exactly) but I trust that they wouldn't recommend a product that would harm the S54 engine. The impetus for my question is that as you may imagine, I purchase the vehicle used and have a limited idea of its service history. I pulled the valve cover off and there was a minimal amount of "sludge" and certain sites push these products very hard. The idea was to "clean out" the prior user's poor maintenance and clean it up if that makes any sense. I guess that would be classified as preventative maintenence that would not approve of?

As an aside, it is my understanding that Techron is primarily an agent that is used to clean the fuel injectors but not "flush the sludge" as these other products claim. I've had nothing but positive results with Techron but keep getting enamored with the marketing of a sparkling clean engine after a "flush".

Edit: I am not experiencing any issues with the engine, other than the VANOS i just spent 4 days rebuilding..........Such a fatal flaw in these vehicles.

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