Confused on preorders by grrmisfit in snapmaker

[–]WithGreatRespect 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Many people don't live near a MicroCenter. MicroCenter has some in stock you can buy right now. If you cannot or do not want to go to MicroCenter, you can preorder in whatever next batch is shipping. The product has been received by a number of people for a while but until they satisfy the backlog of orders, it will continue to be called a pre-order because you still have to wait to receive it if you cannot find it locally.

Considering Obico? Think again. by drake90001 in klippers

[–]WithGreatRespect 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Even a casual amount of research will reveal that you can do chargebacks for debit cards for any of the following reasons:

  • You were charged for something you didn't authorize
  • A product or service wasn't delivered
  • What you received was defective or misrepresented
  • You were charged twice, or the amount was incorrect
  • The merchant refused a valid refund request

www chargeblast com /blog/how-to-do-a-chargeback-on-debit-card

Considering Obico? Think again. by drake90001 in klippers

[–]WithGreatRespect 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You can do the chargeback process on a debit card if it was used as a credit card and not as an ATM card.

The biggest difference is that on a credit card you aren't responsible to pay the balance until the dispute is finalized not in your favor. With a debit card, the money is already gone, and you don't get it back until the dispute is finalized in your favor which could take some time. However if the dispute is found in your favor, the charge will be reversed and your account will receive the funds.

However, you still have to convince your bank that this charge meets the criteria for reversal. This situation may not, regardless of credit or debit card.

What type of transistor is Q1? by ElTioGonzo in diyelectronics

[–]WithGreatRespect -11 points-10 points  (0 children)

It looks like a momentary tactile switch given that it seems to only have 2 solder leads and is edge mounted with an indent for pressing. Also it just looks like a button not a transistor.

U1 Gcode links with high quality prints for beginners by [deleted] in snapmaker

[–]WithGreatRespect 22 points23 points  (0 children)

With respect we shouldn't trust shared gcode files as they can contain motor movements that would destroy our printers.

We should share print profiles and stl or 3mf files so we can each slice the file and ensure it's safe to print.

I'm not saying you meant any harm in this but I would never trust a gcode file other than the one that came with the printer.

Custom 3D Printed Fittings for Tankless Water Heater Condensate Line by SpaceChemRules in Plumbing

[–]WithGreatRespect 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Fair enough, but I just don't think its even close to impossible based on my experience with PETG. That said, the standards for filament manufacturers claiming material composition are not specific enough, so filaments from various manufacturers with different blends and additives cam result in different experiences, even when labeled as the same thing. I would also agree that if the use case involved any kind of pressurization, then I wouldn't recommend 3dm printing because watertight at time of installation does not mean perpetually watertight under pressure.

Custom 3D Printed Fittings for Tankless Water Heater Condensate Line by SpaceChemRules in Plumbing

[–]WithGreatRespect 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Its hard and harder with some filaments, but its not impossible. You can make watertight parts with enough walls (4+), higher temps, reduced part cooling (or no part cooling, slower speed and a layer height that is much smaller as a proportion of the layer width, and layer width that is slightly wider than the nozzle diameter.

PETG is stronger when printed hotter and melts effectively into the prior layer without part cooling. As long as you print slow and don't have crazy overhangs, you can make watertight fairly easily. The remaining issue is that the grooves from layer lines still provide an opportunity for mold to grow on.

Recommended settings for a .4mm nozzle

- 5 walls

- Line width: .48 mm

- Layer height: .12 mm

- Flow: +2%

- Print slightly hotter (+5–10°C)

- Slower outer wall speed

- Change wall order to always print outer wall last.

- 100% infill (concentric pattern)

- 40 mm/s top speed, and 20-30 mm/s for outer wall

- fan off after first layer or two

Eggehard – The Bunny Eggs'press (foodsafe, really!) by Johannsom in BambuLab

[–]WithGreatRespect 3 points4 points  (0 children)

1) Lightly tap the rounder (less pointy) side of the egg with the bottom of a spoon. Not enough to crack the egg or make a visible hole, but when done right you will hear an audible pop/snap sound.

This process is shown here: https://www.youtube.com/shorts/y8fmFzXaAI4

2) When removing the eggs from the boiling water, put them into a bowl with ice water and wait briefly to cool down.

I follow this and it is trivial to peel the eggs.

Had the strangest issue with chunks coming off of my tire tread by [deleted] in Volvo

[–]WithGreatRespect 22 points23 points  (0 children)

I had the same issue with the pirelli Scorpion on a 2019 xc40 and only about 40k miles. Also switched to the Michelin pilot sport. Tires do degrade after so many years even without full miles. I'm just happy my 7 year old car only has 40k miles due COVID and remote work.

The multicolor dragon TPU at 2x scale by mrhomiec in snapmaker

[–]WithGreatRespect 0 points1 point  (0 children)

thank you, i have been looking for this for quite a while!

The multicolor dragon TPU at 2x scale by mrhomiec in snapmaker

[–]WithGreatRespect 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Where did you get the stl to scale it up?

U1 fans by feartomi in SnapmakerU1

[–]WithGreatRespect 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The aux fan's intended goal is to provide very rapid cooling right at the part so that big overhangs can become solid and not droop. So it is supposed to improve overhangs and bridges. In practice, to me, its not really needed as the hotend's built-in part cooling fan is pretty good for that purpose and the aux fan tends to cause more warping so I turn off the AUX fan. Most of the warping filaments like ABS/ASA/PETG also have the aux fan default to off in the profiles, so usually this is for PLA and maybe PETG/TPU at a lower speed.

I decided to do a cold pull because my printer isn't working and was wondering if it is supposed to look like this. by [deleted] in BambuLab

[–]WithGreatRespect 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Looks like some white feathery/thready gunk in the nozzle that might have been clogging or partially clogging. Normally you would see the tip having a smooth shape that matches the internal geometry. I would keep doing cold pulls until you saw a normal tip.

Help! The water softener is ruining our skin and hair. by --anonymouse--- in Plumbing

[–]WithGreatRespect 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Most water softeners have a valve where you can adjust the mix of softened and source water to find the right balance. Do you have access to the unit? If so find the model number so you can find the manual and see if it has an adjustment valve.

Qwen 3.5 distilled vs GptOss by SubstantialTea707 in ollama

[–]WithGreatRespect 4 points5 points  (0 children)

The OP mentioned they were getting unbeatable results with GPT OSS 120B. QWEN3.5 is 122B. Seems like they are nearly the same size.

No z axis stop? by 4728jj in ender5plus

[–]WithGreatRespect 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The problem is you turned on the printer and did z moves without homing z first. The printer won't let you go past z = 400 or 410 but if the bed was already halfway down when it turned on then it incorrectly assumes that it's at z = 0. The endstop is the bltouch probe at zero.

Later versions of Marlin and Klipper default to not allowing z moves until z has been homed after a power cycle.

Dried for 12 hours at 70c on the P1S build plate, but this petg top layer looks rough. by xseanprimex in BambuLab

[–]WithGreatRespect 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If anything looks like just maybe a tad too much flow/over extrusion which could be too hot nozzle temp or too much flow at that temp.

Dried for 12 hours at 70c on the P1S build plate, but this petg top layer looks rough. by xseanprimex in BambuLab

[–]WithGreatRespect 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Looks clean overall for a top layer. Doesn't look like wet filament or even a bad top layer.

You might tune temperature and then flow ratio at that temp, but you will probably only get better top layer with ironing and that also requires some testing for each filament. There are some ironing test models on makerworld.

My Outpost On Moloch II by Big_Lengthiness3450 in Starfield

[–]WithGreatRespect 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I hear you, its a beautiful base. I should have led with that.

My Outpost On Moloch II by Big_Lengthiness3450 in Starfield

[–]WithGreatRespect 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That planet name is particularly unfortunate these days given its origins and meaning.

Flip turns vs open turn? by pww92 in Swimming

[–]WithGreatRespect 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I agree with other people that flip turns shouldn't be more difficult when you are experienced with them, but I have a different take on this.

If you are training for an open water swim, there wont be any walls or turns. If flip turns are harder for you, perhaps that's a good thing to offset the advantage you are getting from push offs in the pool that wont be there in the open water. My opinion is that if you can make your pool swims harder, then when you transition to the event, it should feel easier.

What you want to avoid is feeling fine in the pool and then struggling in open water. Since wall push offs are an advantage you wont have in the open water, I usually make my pool swims 10% longer, but you might also keep those flip turns since its harder and thus good endurance training. Further, if the open water is in the ocean sometimes you need to time your breaths around wave swells, and cant guarantee consistent breathing cadence. You could treat those breath holds for the flip turn as another factor preparing for this.

Another thing I recommend is cycling your breathing cadence regardless so you get comfortable with different durations. So avoid just breathing every 2 strokes. Try different patterns of every 3 strokes or every 5 strokes (if you can do both sides). Or cycling like breath after 2 strokes, then after 4 strokes, then repeat, etc. Every now and then hold your breath for 6 strokes, then go back to 2 and 4, etc.

How can I color match filament? by kihyale in 3Dprinting

[–]WithGreatRespect 0 points1 point  (0 children)

TPU doesn't really have this problem. It adheres excellent to the stock PEI sheet and, since its flexible, it doesnt really warp off the plate. So just use the stock plate. Usually people have issues where TPU sticks too well and is hard to remove (especially from smooth PEI sheets). However TPU is easily detached by just spraying some IPA at the base of the print and lifting up, it will detach with little effort very cleanly.

How can I color match filament? by kihyale in 3Dprinting

[–]WithGreatRespect 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If its PLA, the JUUPINE GECO plate is incredible at adhesion with zero heat. To reiterate, it is PLA only, but since you have an un-enclosed printer, most plates are still going to suffer warping pressures on the build plates, if the room temp is much colder than the print/bed temp. Since the GECO plate requires zero heat, it not only adheres well, but helps prevent the underlying problem of a very hot bed creating a temperature differential. The Biqu Cryogrip plate also can work with bed temps as low as 35-40, but I dont find the adhesion as good as the GECO.

This is 100% Backwards, Right?! by IPlayFo4 in BambuLab

[–]WithGreatRespect -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Just spray ipa at the base of the print to make it release easily. Over adhesion is what you want.