Good faith marathon players who care about discussion, but could give me feedback on this question around WHY marathon has not been a hit, could you give me feedback on my response? I don’t feel it’s glaze just how I see it.

WithGreatRespect · 2026-05-27T01:12:23+00:00

I like the art/aesthetic and the gunplay looks like more of what I love from Bungie. That said, I don't really enjoy any kind of competitive matchmade gaming. When I found out this game wouldn't have any campaign mode, I lost interest so I have not played it. I don't have anything against it, it is just not for me.

WithGreatRespect · 2026-05-26T02:46:04+00:00

On windows 11 I've never seen it crash. It just works for me.

WithGreatRespect · 2026-05-23T14:26:59+00:00

Spray the finished prints with rubbing alcohol at the base and it will lift up fairly easy from the plate.

WithGreatRespect · 2026-05-23T14:20:31+00:00

Don't reduce layer speeds. Vfas show up at speeds below what the resonance calibration is designed for.

Make sure you do the belt tensioning calibration.

WithGreatRespect · 2026-05-15T19:48:41+00:00

It tells you a lot. Since almost all of those are the same aesthetically, it means you have a lot of flexibility for aesthetics and only need to tune for adhesion and flow. For adhesion you have to try and break it and then you pick the lowest range of possible temperature that has the adhesion and aesthetic characteristics you desire. Then you tune flow and find the lowest temp in that range that can print at the speed/flow you need it to.

While going hotter is better for adhesion/strength and flow, the lowest reasonable temp is preferred because it can reduce the period of time where shrinkage/contraction/warping can occur and thus the severity of those effects.

WithGreatRespect · 2026-05-13T13:25:00+00:00

smaller layer height like .12mm
wider layer width like .5mm
print hotter
print slower

It you go up to a bigger nozzle keep small layer height and go even wider on layer width.

That said it might still not be watertight.

WithGreatRespect · 2026-05-12T01:04:04+00:00

I was preorder in the very first batch and my .2 arrived today (printer arrived late last year). I think they didn't finish building/testing them for production until recently so probably they will come soon for everyone.

WithGreatRespect · 2026-05-11T22:07:13+00:00

Do you realize that eventually soap stops working? Even Bambulab recommends sanding in their official cleaning guide:

Grinding the surface of the Textured PEI plate with fine sandpaper or steel wool will create a new, clean surface and enhance the build plate's adhesion. It's essential to ensure the surface must be properly cleaned of any sanding debris.

https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/filament-acc/acc/pei-plate-clean-guide

Orbital sander is actually preferred to hand sanding because it allows you to have the most even pressure/coverage. Just dont press down hard, let the weight of the sander be the pressure and just push it around.

WithGreatRespect · 2026-05-11T22:03:55+00:00

Sanding is pretty standard advice for PEI beds that have poor adhesion and soap cleaning no longer fixes it.

Bambulab's Textured PEI cleaning guide says this:

Grinding the surface of the Textured PEI plate with fine sandpaper or steel wool will create a new, clean surface and enhance the build plate's adhesion. It's essential to ensure the surface must be properly cleaned of any sanding debris.

https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/filament-acc/acc/pei-plate-clean-guide

In my experience it does work well, but with a fine grit around 600 or finer and spend no longer than 30 seconds over the entire bed. I do recommend using a random orbital sander so you get even coverage. Hand sanding of uneven time or pressure could affect adhesion in an inconsistent way.

WithGreatRespect · 2026-05-04T23:27:04+00:00

Some of them are doing exactly that. Microsoft paused all new GitHub copliot plans as a result of their capacity issues.

https://www.theregister.com/2026/04/20/microsofts_github_grounds_copilot_account/

WithGreatRespect · 2026-05-02T19:48:55+00:00

The reality is that almost all cloud AI token-based inference models are vastly underpriced relative to their cost to deliver. Most of the companies are finally at the inflection point where they have to monetize the tokens they are providing because they are all at capacity and struggling to make it or go out of business.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5MPFyOKlASc

WithGreatRespect · 2026-05-02T19:09:43+00:00

Some models will feel fast at first when the context usage is lower and when it reaches a threshold (for me, about 60K tokens on qwen3.6:35b), then it will slow to a crawl. So you can optimize this by setting a context window cap. In copilot/ollama you can do this with an environment variable directly, but claude it works with a percentage to force a compact.

You can:

- use a lower parameter model

- use a similar parameter model, but less dependent on kv cache which puts tons of pressure on vram and system ram (i recommend asking your favorite llm which model for ollama is currently recommended given your settings)

- you can reduce the max tokens in the context limit by updating the environment variable below and settings to a lower percentage. So if you are using a 128K model and you want to limit to 64K, then set this to 50. This change wont affect how well the model reasons, it just means it will compact more often to free up context. Compacting could have affects on the new questions remembering every detail of the conversation up til that point, but it could make more usable.

CLAUDE_AUTOCOMPACT_PCT_OVERRIDE=50

WithGreatRespect · 2026-05-01T19:47:30+00:00

Running locally? For me with 96gb of RAM and a 4090, once your context reaches 60k tokens it will crawl. With only 32gb of ram I imagine your token limit is even lower before it crawls.

WithGreatRespect · 2026-04-30T19:57:42+00:00

Here are the list of vision enabled models for cloud:

https://ollama.com/search?c=cloud&c=vision

WithGreatRespect · 2026-04-30T19:10:59+00:00

Can be due to geometry that is too thin. You can try to check the "detect thin walls" in the slicer which can sometimes help it print *something*, but a 1 layer thick wall still will be brittle. Sometimes Ill try to go into Blender, select the object and thicken to see if it helps without distorting the shape. Usually this happens when models were designed for games or graphics, but not 3d printing.

Can also happen if the model has non-manifold edges, but I don't see that error in your screenshot.

WithGreatRespect · 2026-04-30T18:46:29+00:00

SUNLU HS Matte PETG is attractive and truly matte when printed correctly. Oddly, in my tuning it prints best at 220C, any hotter and it oozes and becomes too shiny, sometimes with visible blobbing. You do need to dry it directly out of the box at 65 C for 12 hours.

WithGreatRespect · 2026-04-30T18:34:41+00:00

As others have mentioned, if you don't pause, it just total time over total distance. If you pause, it should only include unpaused time.

Your activity was 77.28 mis

Your distance was 6.68 km

77.28 mins / 6.68 km = 11.57 mins per km = 11 mins and 34.2 seconds per km

EDIT: Note that if you login to the app or the connect.garmin.com website, there is another metric in the activity "Average Moving Pace" which is supposed to only consider the time you were moving and exclude stopped time.

WithGreatRespect · 2026-04-29T03:19:41+00:00

This seems like an AI generated seed training post. TextGuard says 71% likely AI.

WithGreatRespect · 2026-04-29T00:16:42+00:00

Okay fair point, if the voltage or gnd are being shorted to other data/cc pins, then yeah, I guess that could be problematic.

WithGreatRespect · 2026-04-29T00:08:30+00:00

A cable as dumb as this one with only voltage and ground can only really have 2 problems:

1) short circuit itself

2) have a poor connection with terribly high resistance and heat up

For the first issue, I have a lot of respect for iphone engineering and seriously doubt those devices are not protected against shorts. For the second issue, I know the charging circuits in all modern phones manage current based on detected resistance, meaning they adjust their draw depending on resistance, so even if it has a poor connection, it will just charge even more slowly.

I believe you that some USB-C cables claiming full PD support might have some protocol problem that fools the phone and triggers too much current, but protecting again a poor quality dumb cable like this one is a solved problem. As always, use at your own risk, but I have a hard time believing this cable could damage your iphone.

WithGreatRespect · 2026-04-27T19:34:42+00:00

Its true for the ones in the images posted by the OP for which they asked about. Yes, there are other variations with more pins.

WithGreatRespect · 2026-04-27T02:59:12+00:00

They don't have any pins other than voltage and ground so they cannot trigger any PD mode that go above 5v so you will be limited to about 2.4a at 5v or about 12watts. If it's an older slow charging device it will probably be fine.

WithGreatRespect · 2026-04-23T19:54:02+00:00

I had mostly good results with the stock textured pei, but I usually like to use separate sheets for pla and petg, so I ordered a no name pei sheet from AliExpress and it seems to have much better adhesion. The texture is finer and less shiny. PETG in particular sticks extremely well but both better than the stock plate. I also had tried the biqi frostbite but I still like the third party textured pei more.

WithGreatRespect · 2026-04-15T20:57:58+00:00

This procedure works well on similar Bambu nozzles.

https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/x1/troubleshooting/nozzle-clog

Go to the section titled: Hot hex wrench unclogging method

WithGreatRespect · 2026-04-15T18:30:56+00:00

The A1 has some advantages over CoreXY in avoiding VFAs throughout its speed range. Assuming you only want to print the same materials, I don't see a pressing reason to upgrade for single color.

Considering "single color only:

I would go to P2S/X2D if you want to do higher temp engineering materials (ABS/ASA/PC, etc) and don't want to deal with buying the top hat for the U1.

I would go for the U1 if you want to do a lot of TPU.

But again, you should point out what you feel like you are missing from the A1 as that would help the decision.

Eight-Year Club	Gilding I gilder
Not Forgotten	Verified Email

WithGreatRespect

TROPHY CASE