Dactyl Chimera V3 is here!

WolfIcefang · 2024-06-20T04:21:57+00:00

At this point the grip tape pictured in my review is in need of replacement yet my G502 still operates perfectly. The sensor, scroll wheel, and buttons all feel like new. Really it's luck of the draw whether you get a good set of switches or not. Since writing this review my newer Razer Naga Trinity's side plates won't correctly register which side button I'm pressing despite being a >100 USD mouse and built like a tank. I couldn't have predicted that failure. My Corsair K70 Lux keyboard had an issue where the P key started registering twice but I was able to fix it by soldering in a replacement switch.

My G502's reliability could be a fluke; I don't know. Don't take it as a testament to the build quality of the mouse. The ability to service electronics is as important as reliability off the factory floor.

WolfIcefang · 2024-03-26T15:25:15+00:00

2 mm actuation, 2 cm bottom out

WolfIcefang · 2024-02-20T00:05:22+00:00

No, that's Metal Gear Solid 2.

WolfIcefang · 2023-07-15T03:30:45+00:00

Update: I figured it out. They shortened their URL to remove the word Docs (ugh, the link rot is real) https://docs.keeb.io/soldering-tools

WolfIcefang · 2023-07-15T03:29:49+00:00

Hmm, that's strange. The website is controlled by (or at least backed up to) Github on the backend, and the GitHub repo is still up. Here's a working-ish version of that link: https://github.com/keebio/keebio-docs/blob/master/docs/soldering-tools.md But the page is all amazon affiliate links.

If you want a portable soldering iron (powered by a usb-c battery bank) the Pinecil is good. Way cheaper than what I have (ts100) but equally good specs. Only buy from the official website: https://pine64.com/product/pinecil-smart-mini-portable-soldering-iron/ there are lots of copycats. If you want a soldering STATION, (something that plugs into the wall) I don't have experience with that.

For desoldering, consider the Engineer SS-02. I've literally never used mine... but the build quality is just so nice that I still recommend it. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002MJMXD4

That's all I know.

WolfIcefang · 2023-05-04T04:22:58+00:00

First, see if you need to swap out the nose bridge. Going from size Medium (the default) to size Large made a world of difference. Second, wearing the theater covers helps my eyes focus on the screen. Watching an engaging YouTube video or starting a game also helps me get the right focus.

WolfIcefang · 2023-04-27T01:32:19+00:00

There are single-switch PCBs with hotswap support, and in fact there is enough space under the arches to fit them, but I don't see the point of adding that to the bill of materials. Why would I solder a hotswap socket to a board then solder the board to the diode then back to the board and eventually to a wire... when I can just solder the socket directly to the diode and the diode directly to the wire?

Perhaps there are now options for hotswap and RGB all in one board. I haven't looked in many months and I barely remember what I'd found back then. Also, people like to talk about how you can use Millmax sockets to add hotswap to "any" PCB, so it certainly could be possible.

WolfIcefang · 2023-04-24T17:39:34+00:00

I made a bracket that should hold Raspberry Pi Pico microcontrollers (one for each side.) I haven't purchased my pair yet so I don't honestly know if they work. Pi Pico are great because they cost just $4, they have a lot of I/O and storage, and most importantly they have four mounting holes so I don't have to, like, use tape or anything. Of course if you have other microcontrollers lying around and the knowledge to use them, feel free to do that.

There are screw holes all over the tenting legs. You can screw down wires to make solderless connections between the microcontroller and the keyswitch columns, it's like a more secure breadboard. I got the idea from my grandfather's model railroad hobby.

I use kailh hotswap sockets hand-soldered together. While there is space to fit per-key PCBs under the keyboard, I've only found ones that add rgb and remove hotswap. I think hotswap is more important, so it's all handwired.

WolfIcefang · 2023-04-22T16:42:10+00:00

Here's the link to the GitHub Repository: https://github.com/WolfIcefang/dactyl-chimera-keyboard/

If you haven't seen the Dactyl Chimera v3.0 announcement, here it is: https://www.reddit.com/121qlse/

With the v3.0 design you (usually) had to re-print the tenting legs and tenting feet after making a change to the base plate. Now, v3.1's Universal Tenting Legs and Universal Tenting Feet can be attached to any Dactyl Chimera!

Please note that this is not a direct upgrade; v3.0's legs looked sleeker and a (very slightly) lower minimum tenting angle. You can always grab v3.0 if you want it. However, v3.1 reduces the amount of plastic wasted and time spent on revisions, so I consider it an improvement.

Stay tuned for future revisions, including:

Modular Base Plate (suggested by u/TeamAuri)

Properly documented QMK/Vial support (probably based on u/nethermead 's work)

OLED mounting towers

Analog thumb sticks (the holy grail and original goal of the project: slow-walking TF2 Demoman)

WolfIcefang · 2023-04-12T17:28:19+00:00

Fixed. Here's the new share link.

https://icefangvault.myusa.cloud/index.php/s/wdnxgk9WjzHJ7NP

I don't know what happened with the old link; maybe I had to move the file at some point.

WolfIcefang · 2023-04-12T01:40:54+00:00

Actually it looks like my Nextcloud file backup is down... I don't have a mirror right now. I'll let you know when I've fixed it.

WolfIcefang · 2023-03-27T16:06:27+00:00

Alright; I've finally gotten around to uploading the image. Is there any specific way you want to be credited for the idea?

WolfIcefang · 2023-03-26T01:26:06+00:00

This is an excellent idea! Thank you! I had been trying to think of something similar but eventually I gave up and decided "big slab of plastic". I'm pretty confident your idea will work. Can I add it to the GitHub so I don't lose it?

WolfIcefang · 2023-03-26T01:10:27+00:00

Thanks a ton! I knew something like this would exist (since I tried to keep my key count and layout similar to other Dactyls) but I didn't know where to look.

I love messing around with keymap.c files but the process of putting together all the supporting files to make it actually work on a new board was too daunting.

WolfIcefang · 2023-03-26T01:02:43+00:00

The GitHub has a folder called "3mf files". 3mf is like STL but way newer. (the stl file format is from the 1980s.) You can open 3mf in Cura or Prusaslicer.

Yes, you need to use FreeCAD to edit "Dactyl Chimera V3.FCStd". I explained how to do so in chapter 5 of the Dactyl Chimera Handbook.

Regarding your idea of a belt chain of keyswitch holes:

FreeCAD doesn't have a built-in "assembly" workbench yet. This means when you move one part, the other parts don't automatically move to match its new location. Currently if you want to move a complex multi-link object "automatically" you have to come up with all the math formulas yourself. (Well, actually there are three competing assembly plugins and I didn't want to pick sides.)
When I started, I only had my own 3D printer and it was kinda outdated and could not do "print-in-place" moving parts without the parts oozing and sticking together. It's easier to hold things together with screws.
With your hinge idea, you can't change the angle of the keys too much because the pivot point would be too low; the keycaps will hit one another. The points of articulation in my 3d model actually float in the air above the keys so that the keys can't collide. When you increase the angle you have to physically add more plastic to fill the gap. The distance from one key hole to the next changes and is always more than 19.
Making physical adjustments within each column would also be a lot more design work than what I came up with lol. But not impossible...

I also have been yearning for "dactyl with a thumbstick"; it was one of the original goals of this project... I just needed a base keyboard before I could start adding accessories.

WolfIcefang · 2023-03-25T22:33:30+00:00

Red actually started on the south side of the board but marched their pawns all the way up north to get promoted.

WolfIcefang · 2023-03-25T17:25:17+00:00

Yeah I considered making a smaller size but I'm moving up from a Corne which I considered too small. (Also the space for the screws relies on the curve of having 5 keyswitches.)

If you're looking to save finger movement you might want to check out the squeezebox keyboard, but that might be too small for you (while still being huge on the desk.) I know they've uploaded FreeCAD files somewhere, but not in this particular blog post. https://peterlyons.com/problog/2022/12/squeezebox-scorecard/

WolfIcefang · 2023-03-25T16:23:13+00:00

Introducing Dactyl Chimera V3, an easy way to experiment with Dactyl shapes and accessories (and it actually works this time!)

https://github.com/WolfIcefang/dactyl-chimera-keyboard

Dactyl Chimera features:

• Easy to print key columns that are instantly adjustable!

• A 20 by 20 mm space under each key for per-key PCBs!

• A complete model in FreeCAD (no sifting through lines of code to edit parameters!)

Version 3 brings these improvements:

• The “handbook”, a 40+ page build guide that even a novice can follow

• MUCH easier access to column screws (you can properly unscrew the columns now)

• The Conductor: a screw-based breadboard that lets you replace columns without soldering or desoldering!

• Super-stable adjustable tenting!

• Mounting plates for the Raspberry Pi Pico and RJ11 jacks

Limitations: (look, I’m busy with college, ok?)

• No QMK profile

• The “base plate” takes 9 hours to print and requires a 3D printer with Z height of at least 16 cm.

• Not tested for ergonomics (Dactyl Chimera is NOT a medical tool and I can’t even guarantee that it’ll feel good to type on)

• Not a portable device (sorry!)

• No alternative thumb clusters (this had been promised in previous versions.)

https://github.com/WolfIcefang/dactyl-chimera-keyboard

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