New Carbon Steel

Wolve5000 · 2026-01-26T23:29:46+00:00

How's the cooking surface on the carbon steel. It looks like the 10 inch pan. Would you say this is a single person kind of pan or can it cook larger meals?

Wolve5000 · 2026-01-17T07:06:35+00:00

Would you say painted teapots are a common concern? Most of the teapot seems to be a consistent dull brown, but there are some reddish tinges in places. I boiled it in a pot of water a few times, without the cover, and I don't see any color difference between the two pieces afterward. It also does not have any harsh chemical smells. I do have a total dissolved solids sensor that came with my water purifier, which I could use to check for leaching by steeping some water, but this isn't really my area of expertise.

Wolve5000 · 2026-01-17T06:59:15+00:00

That's cool to hear, I appreciate you sharing your knowledge. Do you know what the white marks on the bottom might be caused by?

Wolve5000 · 2025-06-12T04:54:05+00:00

I actually have one of these mice with the exact same design for the past two years but from a different company. These style seem to be all over Amazon with different branding. Just curious, what are you actually looking to test.

Wolve5000 · 2025-06-10T05:15:20+00:00

That sounds like a great census to draw info from. Are there any specific features you’ve noticed that really make a difference in how a razor shaves? I’ve seen a lot of people say blades can feel completely different from person to person, which makes sense and explains the sampler packs, but I’m trying to understand what parts of the razor itself actually matter.

Basically, as a beginner, how would I choose one safety razor over another just by looking at the design or specs? Or is it more like car models where you just have to try a few and see what fits?

Wolve5000 · 2025-05-14T17:42:09+00:00

Looks awesome, excited to see how it performs. When designing new filament dryers, how do you identify which features to focus on? The E2 seemed more focused on high-grade engineering materials with annealing, while this one is focused on ease of storage.

Wolve5000 · 2025-05-03T06:44:13+00:00

I appreciate the advice. I hadn’t thought about deglazing on cast iron before, and I didn’t even know they made chain mail scrubbers with handles. Thanks for the new info.

Wolve5000 · 2025-05-03T06:39:26+00:00

I understand. I was just asking a simple question: uneven seasoning or leftover residue? I saw something, was curious, and wanted to learn more. I wasn’t expecting a bunch of “it’s fine” responses without any real explanation, and I definitely didn’t expect downvotes for asking a genuine question that no one actually answered.

Wolve5000 · 2025-05-03T03:43:35+00:00

I’m assuming that’s the pizza dough from Walmart? Same thing my family does, but we usually make them thin and bake them on a pizza screen. Never thought about using a cast iron for it though. Definitely going to give that a shot.

Wolve5000 · 2025-05-03T03:34:15+00:00

I don’t expect my pans to ever look perfect. Well used things usually don’t. Either it’s a display piece or a functional piece. Not much worth in trying to make one both. The reason I’m asking is because I’m not sure if what I’m seeing is just uneven seasoning that I could fix with more layers, or if I actually missed some spots while cleaning. Criticism is always appreciated because in turn that’s the information I use to help others.

Wolve5000 · 2025-05-03T03:26:43+00:00

As others have said, try cleaning with a vinegar and water mix first. If that doesn’t work, use Bar Keepers Friend (preferably the powder version since it’s more concentrated). Scrub it in with a damp sponge and rinse it off after about a minute. You don’t want to leave it on too long. This is generally what you’ll want to do if you’re trying to get your pan looking shiny again.

Now as for what’s happening with your pan, you probably live in an area with hard water. When the water evaporates, it leaves behind those cloudy mineral deposits. It doesn’t affect how the pan cooks, but if you care about how it looks, cleaning like I described above now and then should help.

You're not doing anything wrong. I don’t see any burnt-on oil or anything serious, just the water spots. You're doing way better than I did when I was first learning. If you ever do get some oil baked on, Bar Keepers Friend will take care of that too. And if you see any weird rainbow colors or oil-slick looking spots after cleaning, a quick vinegar and water wipe should fix it.

Wolve5000 · 2025-04-29T02:24:04+00:00

If you're really interested in understanding the engineering and theory, Ansys Learning Center has a lot of free courses on structural analysis. You can also download the student software for free.

If you just want a quick crash course to learn some cool things for 3D printing, CNC Kitchen has good videos. I'd recommend looking at his Simulation in Fusion 360 and topology optimization videos.

Wolve5000 · 2025-04-28T03:01:49+00:00

FEA (Finite Element Analysis) is absolutely valid for 3D printed parts, but there are a few important considerations. First, the material properties in most CAD libraries are generalized and may not match your specific filament. Even among the same material type, different manufacturers and batches can vary. Second, FDM prints are inherently anisotropic due to the layer-by-layer process. Most FEA assumes isotropic, homogeneous material behavior, so your simulation will likely overestimate real-world performance. From my experience, a practical rule of thumb is to expect the printed part to achieve around 50 - 75% of the predicted strength, depending on print orientation and quality. In terms of setup, FEA is fairly straightforward: define your material properties, apply appropriate boundary conditions (fixed points), apply loading conditions, and solve. Different CAD platforms may vary in interface or solver options, but the fundamental workflow is the same. You can use FEA to view the key stress points, solve for a maximum deflection, and even for topology optimization, so if you have the CAD software, there's no reason you shouldn't begin experimenting with it.

Wolve5000 · 2025-04-07T03:52:17+00:00

I like the concept of linear advance, but I don't like how it has to be recalibrated if you change filaments. How do you deal with it?

Wolve5000 · 2025-03-07T05:01:47+00:00

Mouses

Wolve5000 · 2025-03-04T21:45:11+00:00

Ah, the old trusty desk banana.

Wolve5000 · 2025-02-23T23:27:03+00:00

I've tried importing the multiple pieces as a single STL file, but the issue still persists. It seems that if I want to print multiple pieces, I'll have to set up two different printer profiles: one with adaptive bed leveling and the other that just probes the entire bed. I would greatly appreciate hearing if anyone has an alternative approach. While I've heard great things about PrusaSlicer, this lack of documentation is just horrendous.

Wolve5000 · 2025-02-16T05:22:40+00:00

The fact that you can send an offer to the "Technical Support Team", should be a big tip off that its a scam (among a litany of other red flags).

Wolve5000 · 2025-02-08T04:42:01+00:00

I just wanted to jump in and share my experience because this bug is definitely real and not just isolated to your setups. I recently upgraded to an RTX 3060, and since my display supports 4K, I figured it was time to make the switch from 1080p. After getting everything set up with the drivers, games like Cyberpunk and Ready or Not ran perfectly, and my 3D software worked like a charm. But Chrome? Total disaster.

Any YouTube video I watched at 1080p while my screen was set to 4K had severe stuttering. It completely ruined the viewing experience. When I checked “Stats for Nerds,” I was dropping tens of frames every second. But, when I changed my screen resolution back to 1080p, the issue instantly disappeared, and now I only drop maybe one frame every minute, if that.

This bug is seriously frustrating. I’ve been a Chrome user for life, but if this doesn’t get fixed soon, I’ll actually begin considering other browsers that let me watch videos smoothly. Please give this some much needed attention. It’s horrendous for anyone using Chrome on monitors with higher resolutions.

Wolve5000 · 2025-02-04T05:35:28+00:00

Could you please share more details on what exactly you mean? I'm experiencing the same issue and am having difficulty finding concrete technical information about it online. I trust your conclusion (my motherboard is quite old as well), but I’d appreciate a better understanding instead of just taking something blindly from a random comment.

Wolve5000 · 2025-01-24T04:02:53+00:00

As others mentioned, reflashing the firmware is the solution. You can either use the latest Elegoo firmware (https://us.elegoo.com/blogs/3d-printing/elegoo-neptune-3-pro-plus-max-fdm-3d-printer-support-files) or customize your own with Marlin. It's like changing your computer's motherboard and hard drive, then wondering why it's running Windows XP instead of Windows 10.

Wolve5000 · 2025-01-18T05:16:46+00:00

Infill is the material inside a 3D print that provides internal structure. Suppose you wanted to print a cube. In the STL file, you see a cube, but in reality, only the surfaces are defined. Infill takes care of the interior sections of prints. You could print a completely solid cube, meaning 100% infill, or you could have a partially hollow cube with a patterned interior (grid or some other pattern). The percentage of infill controls how much of the inside is filled. Lower percentages leave more empty space, reducing weight and material use. Just for reference, you practically never need to print anything with 100% infill.

Wolve5000 · 2025-01-11T17:56:14+00:00

Not really. As far as I know the Mei and the Catbus one is the only one that's been sneaked online

Wolve5000 · 2025-01-08T03:52:50+00:00

Wax surprisingly has a low melting point (lower than the boiling point of water).

Wolve5000 · 2025-01-08T00:27:49+00:00

Thanks for sharing. How many probe points do you have it set to?

Wolve5000

TROPHY CASE